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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 95 GT that I've dumped alot of money into. The car only has a little over 100K (odometer recently stopped). In the last six months I've put two starters on, new alternator, new battery, new ignition switch, new ignition coil, new thermostat and ect sensor. It's ran great for a month, but I tried to start it leaving work and all I hear is that cursed clicking sound. Whoever had it before me put bigger headers on it and welded the exaust up. So can it be long tube headers death to the starter again? Grounds are good, relays and fuses are good. Could it be the CCRM since it's 25 years old?

I forgot to mention the cooling fan does not come on at all unless the defrost or AC is on, but obviously my main concern now is the "no start" or even trying to turn over.
 

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That clicking usually indicates a bad connection/ cable/ ground.

If you really want to narrow it down to the exact component failing, perform a voltage drop test from the battery positive to the starter, and another test on the battery negative to the grounding point.

Continuity & voltage tests are misleading.

It’s not uncommon for a battery cable to look fine, but be corroded inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That clicking usually indicates a bad connection/ cable/ ground.

If you really want to narrow it down to the exact component failing, perform a voltage drop test from the battery positive to the starter, and another test on the battery negative to the grounding point.

Continuity & voltage tests are misleading.

It’s not uncommon for a battery cable to look fine, but be corroded inside.
I will try that when I get the chance. Unfortunately it's sitting at work lol.
 

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no the starter relay thats mounted to the ds fender. the positive battery cable goes to it. make sure its secure to the fender.
 

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jump the 2 big terminals together with a wire see if it starts. if its a manual, please make sure its in neutral as this bypasses the clutch switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've read to try that. It was the end of work today so I couldn't spend alot of time with it since my co-worker offered to bring me home. I forgot to mention I've also put a new clutch switch in it as well.
 

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If the clutch switch isn’t working correctly you will get absolutely nothing. No clicking. No clunks.

Clicking is a bad connection.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
If the clutch switch isn’t working correctly you will get absolutely nothing. No clicking. No clunks.

Clicking is a bad connection.
That's what I thought. I didn't mention that have replaced the clutch switch anyways. I've replaced alot of parts just to be safe. The car sat for three years
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a 95 GT that I've dumped alot of money into. The car only has a little over 100K (odometer recently stopped). In the last six months I've put two starters on, new alternator, new battery, new ignition switch, new ignition coil, new thermostat and ect sensor. It's ran great for a month, but I tried to start it leaving work and all I hear is that cursed clicking sound. Whoever had it before me put bigger headers on it and welded the exaust up. So can it be long tube headers death to the starter again? Grounds are good, relays and fuses are good. Could it be the CCRM since it's 25 years old?

I forgot to mention the cooling fan does not come on at all unless the defrost or AC is on, but obviously my main concern now is the "no start" or even trying to turn over.
I have a 95 GT that I've dumped alot of money into. The car only has a little over 100K (odometer recently stopped). In the last six months I've put two starters on, new alternator, new battery, new ignition switch, new ignition coil, new thermostat and ect sensor. It's ran great for a month, but I tried to start it leaving work and all I hear is that cursed clicking sound. Whoever had it before me put bigger headers on it and welded the exaust up. So can it be long tube headers death to the starter again? Grounds are good, relays and fuses are good. Could it be the CCRM since it's 25 years old?

I forgot to mention the cooling fan does not come on at all unless the defrost or AC is on, but obviously my main concern now is the "no start" or even trying to turn over.
UPDATE: I finall
That clicking usually indicates a bad connection/ cable/ ground.

If you really want to narrow it down to the exact component failing, perform a voltage drop test from the battery positive to the starter, and another test on the battery negative to the grounding point.

Continuity & voltage tests are misleading.

It’s not uncommon for a battery cable to look fine, but be corroded inside.
I checked everything and eventually gave up. They hooked a booster box up to it and it fired right up. I checked the battery and voltage drop and it never went below 12 volts. Left it at my mechanic and he said the transmission is missing a 3/8 inch plate that helps hold the starter in place. They can't find one and I'm not sure if I believe them on that. He said I could have damaged the flywheel. Heck in the year and a half I've owned the car, I've only drove it to work on Fridays.
That clicking usually indicates a bad connection/ cable/ ground.

If you really want to narrow it down to the exact component failing, perform a voltage drop test from the battery positive to the starter, and another test on the battery negative to the grounding point.

Continuity & voltage tests are misleading.

It’s not uncommon for a battery cable to look fine, but be corroded inside.
is the starter relay on the fender grounded properly?
That clicking usually indicates a bad connection/ cable/ ground.

If you really want to narrow it down to the exact component failing, perform a voltage drop test from the battery positive to the starter, and another test on the battery negative to the grounding point.

Continuity & voltage tests are misleading.

It’s not uncommon for a battery cable to look fine, but be corroded inside.

That clicking usually indicates a bad connection/ cable/ ground.

If you really want to narrow it down to the exact component failing, perform a voltage drop test from the battery positive to the starter, and another test on the battery negative to the grounding point.

Continuity & voltage tests are misleading.

It’s not uncommon for a battery cable to look fine, but be corroded inside.
Put a battery
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just put a starter on my 95 and there was no plate. And on the 95, the solenoid is on the starter
That's what I was wondering. I've had two starters put on in 8 months and I keep having the same "click" issue. Seems to be worse after I drive it for a few minutes. I knew the solenoid was mounted to the starter. I tried tapping on the starter while my friend at work tried to start it and nothing. Booster box and it fired right up. Battery is brand new and reading correct amperage. This car barely had
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That's what I was wondering. I've had two starters put on in 8 months and I keep having the same "click" issue. Seems to be worse after I drive it for a few minutes. I knew the solenoid was mounted to the starter. I tried tapping on the starter while my friend at work tried to start it and nothing. Booster box and it fired right up. Battery is brand new and reading correct amperage. This car barely has 100K miles but no updates were made until I bought it. New battery, starter, alternator, ignition switch, ignition coil, and starter relay, and I keep having issues.
 

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Get a jumper cable and hook one end to the negative battery terminal, and one end to a good ground on the engine. If it starts then, you know it's a bad ground. And the mechanic may have been talking about the spacer plate that ford uses on the small blocks. If the clutch has been changed, it may have not been put back in. It's not 3/8" though
 

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Do a voltage drop test on the positive to starter and then negative to ground while trying to start the engine.

You will identify the problem. No guessing.

It’s either a bad connection, cable, or the battery itself.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Update: Mechanic said there was a plate missing that acted as a ground for my starter. Couldn't find this so called plate so they added another ground to the starter and now it fires right up everytime. Doesn't even turn over a couple times before it starts. It's never fired up like that before.
 

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There is no plate, if you have an OEM starter.

But if you had done a voltage drop test on the ground side of the circuit you would have seen the ground issue.

Basically instead of replacing your faulty ground, they added another.
 
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