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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Wolfe chromemoly cage, question is on the kickouts from the main hoop down to the floor behind the seats. Are these bars supposed to be welded to the subframe connectors for 9 second legality? I do NOT have through the floor subframes, I have Maximum Motorsports full length subframes. This would entail cutting a piece out of the floor to weld them down.

I talked to Wolfe and they said that you do not have to weld them to the subframe, that the kit should have been supplied with enough 1/8" plate to weld it to the floor (as indeed it was). My rulebook (2007) kinda mentions it needing to be welded to the subframe, but the wording is a little tricky so I'm not 100%.

I know which way is better, just needing a yes or no answer please. TIA.
 

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Considering wolf builds these cars, I'd be inclined to trust what he says. however, you would need to instal through the floor SBC's in order to tie the cage into them.

what does the NHRA book say? ( i don't have mine with me)
 

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Scratch that.. I do have it.

From what I can tell if the car is a full framed car the cage has to be welded to it, mustangs are not full framed cars.the plates should work. it's up to you if you want to do through the floor SBC, but if you do, the cage needs to be welded to them.
 

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Its stronger for them to go through the floor and attach to the subframe connector*. All you need is a <3" hole through the floor, and then get underneath and weld it up. The subframe connector obviously has a little more "meat" to it than the floor does, and therefor makes the whole thing a little stronger, in my opinion.

Then again, like Speedfreak said, its not legally required according to the NHRA.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was just a bit confused cause in the chart for 8.50 and slower full bodied cars, it has the description for the kickers and says specifically "must be welded to subframe". Not full frame, subframe.
 

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I was just a bit confused cause in the chart for 8.50 and slower full bodied cars, it has the description for the kickers and says specifically "must be welded to subframe". Not full frame, subframe.
the floor is to be considered the subframe,so in effect on a mustang you have 3 subframes,the front one that unbolts,the rear one that holds the rear suspension and the middle which is the floor that connects everything.
 

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the 1/8 thick flat floor plate that is directly under the round hoop needs to be positioned directly over the area that has the subframe connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I figured as much Kato. Thanks.

I do have a word in with TeamZ as well.
 

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With the max motorsports conectors you have. I have the same I was able to drill a hole just big enough for the tube to fit thru and then weld all the way around from under the car.

Tim
 

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With the max motorsports conectors you have. I have the same I was able to drill a hole just big enough for the tube to fit thru and then weld all the way around from under the car.

Tim
X2, thats what I have done on previous cars, I feel it ties everything together better, and makes for a stronger chassis and cage.
 

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Here's how I did mine.





 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Well the word from the NHRA is that if you have subframe connectors, you need to tie into them. If you don't, you can go to the floor/trans tunnel with reinforcement plates.

I have already attached mine onto the tops of my subframes anyway.

Here's a tidbit:

NHRA.com said:
2008 Rule Amendments (Updated 9/08/2008)
General Regulations
Section 4
4:11 Roll Cage
Page 81 (03/08)

Add new paragraph "D" bar installation for full bodied cars: For front wheel drive cars, with complete OEM floor (from the fire wall to the rear of the trunk) and rocker/sill boxes, the 1-1/4" x .058" CM (.118" MS) "D" bars (when required; i.e. when the main hoop is not welded to the frame) may be welded to a 1-5/8" x .083" CM (.118" MS) cross member welded to the rocker/sill box via conventional 6" x 6" x 1/8" thick plates. For rear wheel drive cars, with neither a frame nor sub-frame connectors, but with complete OEM floor (from the fire wall to the rear of the trunk; exception: the rear inner wheel wells may be tubbed with steel or aluminum.) and rocker/sill boxes, the 1-1/4" x .058 CM (.118" MS) "D" bars may be welded to conventional 6" x 6" x 1/8" plates attached to the drive shaft tunnel."
 

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so those who had to weld in new floor pans have to tie them into the subframes? since it says complete oem floor from front to back?
 

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Here is my suggestion, unless you have through the floor subframe connectors, I would not tie the cage into them. My opinion, is that unless it is a 2X3" subframe connector that is welded to the both ends of the frame and also to the floor pan where they protrude through, simply use 6X6" 1/8" thick plates welded to the floor. I think you would end up with more rigidity than tieing into some half ass street type sub frame connector that was never meant to be the foundation for a Sportsman tagged cage (8.50 and slower). The plates are the NHRA approved method.
 

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JJohnson's way is the best in my opinion.

And welding them to a subframe connector is also NHRA Approved.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Agreed, jjohnson's method sounds fabulous.

Also am thinking of welding in a plate from the front drops to the A-pillars, and perhaps a few others here and there throughout the chassis. REALLY tie in the body to the cage ya know?
 
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