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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As the title says, I have a 1987 Blue Coupe 5.0L for sale. I hate to sell this car but must part with it.

Here is a list of the things that I have done:
Complete SN95 front and rear 5-lug conversion w/ rear disc brake conversion done with only 100 miles since done. Here's the build thread. I had to copy and paste it to this thread because no one could view it. Enjoy!!!
Day: 1
I have spent the last 6 months gathering parts and have finally acquired the final pieces needed to begin my 5-lug conversion. I wanted to upgrade my '87 coupe 5.0L to 5-lug so that I could sport some '03 chrome Cobra's and figured while I was in there, I wanted to change the 8.8 rear to sn95 disc brake. It has been a long road, but you must go through hell to get to heaven. And so it begins.........
My '87 coupe 5.0L.

I decided that it would be easier to pull the 8.8 rear from the car and assemble everything while it was out rather than hitting my head and spending hours on my back and lying in the dirt.


I had some parts that I purchased from a guy on the Corral and decided that now would be a good time to clean and paint them. I had a set of rear brake dust shields and a pair of sn95 anti-moan brackets that needed to be cleaned and painted. So I cleaned the shields off and sprayed them with a gloss black and painted the anti-moans a nice flat black. I think they came out pretty good.
BEFORE:

AFTER:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

After that, I decided to pull the rear upper control arms and give them a fresh coat of paint. They had years of dirt and grim on them, but I prevailed and got them painted.
BEFORE:

AFTER:

I then decided to clean the 8.8 housing and paint it with a nice gloss black. Not Bad!!!!

That's as far as I've gotten. Will upload more as the build progresses.

Day: 2
After working all day and nearly all night, I got alot accomplished with the coupe. I spent most of the time scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to mount the soft brake lines for the sn95 calipers. But I think that to the untrained eye, it looks as if they belong right where I mounted them. I used a picture of a sn95 rear to estimate where the soft lines needed to mount. I think it came out well.
DRIVERS SIDE:

PASS SIDE:

I decided to crawl underneath the car and pull the center brake line because it looked like it was suffering from dryrot. I then took a trip to Autozone and picked up a new one.
OLD:

NEW:

While I was at Autozone, I decided to pick up some 3/16" hard brake lines, 7/16" brake line fittings, a flaring tool, and a hose bender. Don't waste your money on a hose bender, I ended up making all the bends to the hard lines with my hands. It works just as good and you don't have to spend $15.00.

After I got back home, I torn into the brake lines and began cutting and flaring the hard lines. I decided to mount the new center brake line to the axle housing while the rear was out of the car. Once I got the hard lines flared, I decided to route them to see how they look. Pretty Good!!!!!


CENTER:

DRIVER SIDE:

PASS SIDE:

ROUTED OVER DIFFERENTIAL COVER:

I figured this was a good stopping point. Will update as build progresses.

Day: 3
Well, I went back and decided to take Brandon and Chris's suggestion on boxing the upper control arms to make them more rigid. I got a couple pieces of sheet metal, ground them down to size, and proceeded to weld them into place on the bottom of the uppers. After tacking the sheet metal into place, the welder I was using decided to throw a fit, so the welds came out looking like ass. I took the control arms to my brother to see if he could finish welding them up. He told me that it looked like a flock of birds flew over the control arms and crapped all over 'em, that's how bad the welds were. LOL. Anyways, he was able to cut a channel in the previous welds and run a nice, clean bead to finish boxing the uppers. Thanks Chris.....

After boxing the uppers, I returned home and decided to get the mail. And what did I find in the mailbox, a package that I had been waiting for. I opened it and inside contained my North Racecar brake brackets that I had been waiting for. Progress on the rear had been halted because I got to the point where I needed the brackets before I could move forward. Now that they were in front of me, it was time to get rolling.

After I got the brackets unpackaged and checked the packing list to ensure everything I ordered arrived, I decided to bolt up the brake bracket, dust shield, and slide the new 5-lug axle in on the drivers side.

Then I realized that I needed to get ready for work. Crap!!!!!!!

Day: 4
I was able to make pretty good progress today. After I got the brake brackets/shields bolted up the other day, I figured the first thing I could do is secure the axle.

I then decided to mock the new brake rotor to make sure I was going to have clearance, but first, I had to put the axle spacers that my brother machined on the axle to allow me to center the new sn95 rotor.


After checking the drivers side, I proceeded to bolt up the brake bracket and shield for the passenger side.

I figured while I was on the passenger side, I would bolt up the anti-moan bracket, brake caliper bracket, the caliper sliding pins, brake caliper, pads, and the soft line.




After I buttoned up the passenger side, I moved to the drivers side and finished it up. Once I got the new sn95 rear brake system bolted up and tightened down on both sides, I put fresh fluid in the rear differential housing. After filling the housing with fresh gear oil, I cleaned the mating surfaces for the differential cover and laid a bead of RTV sealant. I then put the rear differential cover back on the housing and bolted it up. To my amazement, after jacking the rear end up level, the differential cover did not leak.

And there you go....... A fox 8.8 with a 5-lug sn95 rear disc brake conversion. Get some!!!!!!



Day: 5
I was able to get the rear end back up underneath the car today. It was a little difficult to balance the rear and get the bolts started. I thought I was going to lose the rear a couple of times, but everything worked out. I hooked the main rear brake feeder line to the new center brake line that I bought a couple days ago, tightened everything up and had my wife get in the car to check the brake line fittings. I had her push the brakes a couple of times to see if the hard lines were gonna leak and to my astonishment, they didn't. Hooray!!!!!!




I believe that I am going to begin work on the front tomorrow but need to get some new sn95 lower ball joints.

Day: 6
I have began work on the front of my '87 coupe. I wanted to take some pics of the factory front brake assembly before I tore it down because the front of this car will never be the same.


After I snapped a few shots of the factory braking, I began tearing down the front end, removing the caliper and rotor.

I then removed the tie rod linkage, unbolted the strut from the spindle, unbolted the spindle from the a-arm, and removed the caliper and brake line. I then finished disassembling the front by removing the a-arm and strut.

I also planned on replacing the inner and outer tie rods for the car, and I'm glad I did because they were worn out. You can definitely see the difference between the old and new inner tie rods.
OLD:

NEW:

After I removed both the passenger and drivers side tie rods, both inner and outer, I figured out why the guy at Big-O Tires told me that he could not get my alignment perfectly true. He said that something in the front was keeping him from getting it aligned true. Take a close look at the old inner tie rod I pulled off the passenger side.
OLD INNER:

NEW INNER:

OLD OUTER:

NEW OUTER:

After I got the tie rods removed from both sides, I needed to address the issue with running an sn95 spindle on the fox body. I new that the fox lower ball joint stud was too long for the sn95 spindle. Instead of buying or machining a lower ball joint stud spacer for the spindle, I opted to do it the correct way. I went to Autozone and bought two new lower ball joints for the sn95 and took the a-arms to a local machine shop. Within two hours of dropping the parts off, they were ready to be picked up. I now had new sn95 lower ball joints in my factory a-arms.

After I got back home, I decided to begin reassembling the front end. I started off by bolting the a-arms back into place on both sides. Then I reassembled the new inner and outer tie rods and got them bolted up.


And that's as far as I got.

Day: 7
I finally found time to continue working on the front of my coupe. I decided to take a couple pics of the '95 spindle I am using with the brand new hubs attached.


After I shot some pics of the spindle and hub assembly, I bolted it up to the ball joint and strut.


Once I secured the spindle, I tackled the new Steeda Caster Camber Plates.

I then decided to attach the tie rod and set the steering.

After that, I put on the new brake rotor and bolted up the brake caliper bracket.


Then I bolted the new '99 PBR dual piston brake calipers on. These should make the car stand on its nose.



After I finished bolting everything up on the passenger side, I moved to the drivers side and finished it up. The only thing that I am missing for both sides is the new caliper brake hoses which I have ordered.

Day: 8
Now that I have completed the rear wheel disc and 5-lug conversion, I bought some new wheels wrapped in Nitto Extreme NT555 rubber. I think this combo looks badass. Feast your eyes on these dudes.
(Nitto NT555 (285/40ZR17))[/b]


What do you guys think?

Day: 9
My new addition just arrived tonight. I have been waiting patiently for 5 days. Can't wait to get it in. It was the last piece of the puzzle. Now I can let the car down and go drive.



Day: 10
After waiting 4 days, my replacement clutch fork from Jegs finally arrived. The new fork will go in tomorrow and I will have my car back on the road by dinner tomorrow night. I snapped a few pics of the new clutch fork. Can't wait to get the car done.


Other parts just installed with less than 100 miles:
-Heavy Duty T-5 transmission w/ steel bearing retainer from 50resto

-King Cobra Clutch
-Factory Replacement Flywheel
-Clutch Fork
-Pilot Bearing and Throwout Bearing
-Rear Main Seal

Other parts on the car:
-BBK CAI
-Edelbrock Performer Heads
-Edelbrock Performer Upper and Lower Intake
-1.6 Roller Rockers
-302 Block
-Pro 5.0 Shifter
-Aluminum Driveshaft
-3.55 Ford Racing Gears
-3G Alternator Upgrade
-C/C Plates
-Adjustable Clutch Cable w/ Steeda Triple Hook Clutch Quadrant and Firewall Adjustor
-SubFrame Connectors
-Headlights
-UPR Off-Road X-pipe
-Equal Length Headers
-2 chamber flows with full length SS tailpipes
-17" Chrome FR500 wheels
-17" Nitto Extreme NT555 tires on all corners with 85% tread life left
There are several other things I am failing to mention.

Here's a short video that my brother captured of the coupe rolling on I-65 coming home from the NMRA. Sorry for the wind noise.

This car is not a joke. I have not beat it or mistreated it. I always took care of the car and drove it with sense. Car has been completely garage kept since I've owned it.

$6700. Not interested in trades. Need a straight up sale. PM for faster response or email to [email protected]. Don't get on here everyday.





















 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pics of the interior have been added to the original post.

Also, I failed to mention that I installed new door molding above and on the door on both sides. I have done too much to this car to list. You just have to see it all.
 

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Good looking car!! Larryb i agree with you gotta have A/C GLWS
 

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No lowballers I suggest you put firm with your price with no ac and blue interior I guarantee oover 5,000 will be hard to get. Car is nice but they have built supercharged perfect body paint full aeromtive fuel system cars with ac and heat for 9 to 10.
 
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