[GTdriver]

A friend is trying to get me to get into drag racing and I think I kind of like the sound of the 7.0 index class. My problem is I have no idea what it takes to run tha time consistantly. The tracks are closed, so I can't even go watch. What I have is a 93 Reef Blue SSP coupe, and no way would I make it a drag only car. This is a pretty nice, and rare car with cold a/c, too nice to completely cut up. A previous owner made a little over 500rwhp with a turbo, but it was removed before I bought it and it has a stock longblock in it now. The car still has some pretty good part on it though. It has fully welded upper and lower torque boxes with reinforcements, Subframe connectors, UPR pro street upper/lower control arms, spherical bearings in the housing, lakewood 50/50's, 4.10's, alum. D/S, Tremec 3550 TKO, Pro 5.0 shifter, Spec stg. 3 clutch, Lakewood bell housing, MSD 6a, underdrive pulleys, full 2.5" exhaust, equal length shorty's, 1.7 rockers, E303, Explorer intake, 75mm t-body, C&L 76mm mass air and inlet. I have recently installed a NX wet kit with the shark nozzle, heater, and purge. I have a tubular k-member that has not been installed, and three sets of iron heads. GT40, GT40p's, and Windsor Sr's. Also have 1 5/8 longtubes not installed. Car has draglites and a cowl hood. I'm looking to add at least a 8-point roll bar, or maybe even go ahead with a 10pt. I know the car won't run the time consistantly now, and an automatic transmission is probably a must, but I'm not sure about the rest. I wouldn't mind putting an AOD back in my car, since it came automatic anyway but no way would I go C4 as much as I drive it. I guess my main question is, how much power does it take to run 7.0's. I just bought a wore out '92 5.0 5-speed coupe last night that isn't quite as nice of a car, so If I have to change a lot of my current parts, I might well just start fresh on the another car. I can use some of the parts from my car for the build, and put mine back closer to stock. The '92 is also a SSP, but it isn't very nice, and I don't mind cutting on it or putting a c4 in it. Either way, How much power will it take to run the time? I have set of 1 3/4 headers and a canton pan for a 351. I thought about using my Windsor Sr's and a carb/efi or spyder style intake. Basically I really am clueless LOL :idunno:.

 

[Just Chuck]

To actually run 7.0, you're car probably has to run at least high 10's and 60ft low 1.5s. I'll ususally run 10.80-90 in my 7.0 trim.

At 2900#, I'm probably making about 400 RWHP.

AOD's are usually slow on the tranbrake, and will cost you 3-4 times as much for a built AOD with a slow transbrake.

In my 7.0 class you need to be .040 or better on the tree and be able to run right on 7.00.

 

[Stephen Johnson]

A friend is trying to get me to get into drag racing and I think I kind of like the sound of the 7.0 index class. My problem is I have no idea what it takes to run tha time consistantly. The tracks are closed, so I can't even go watch. What I have is a 93 Reef Blue SSP coupe, and no way would I make it a drag only car. This is a pretty nice, and rare car with cold a/c, too nice to completely cut up. A previous owner made a little over 500rwhp with a turbo, but it was removed before I bought it and it has a stock longblock in it now. The car still has some pretty good part on it though. It has fully welded upper and lower torque boxes with reinforcements, Subframe connectors, UPR pro street upper/lower control arms, spherical bearings in the housing, lakewood 50/50's, 4.10's, alum. D/S, Tremec 3550 TKO, Pro 5.0 shifter, Spec stg. 3 clutch, Lakewood bell housing, MSD 6a, underdrive pulleys, full 2.5" exhaust, equal length shorty's, 1.7 rockers, E303, Explorer intake, 75mm t-body, C&L 76mm mass air and inlet. I have recently installed a NX wet kit with the shark nozzle, heater, and purge. I have a tubular k-member that has not been installed, and three sets of iron heads. GT40, GT40p's, and Windsor Sr's. Also have 1 5/8 longtubes not installed. Car has draglites and a cowl hood. I'm looking to add at least a 8-point roll bar, or maybe even go ahead with a 10pt. I know the car won't run the time consistantly now, and an automatic transmission is probably a must, but I'm not sure about the rest. I wouldn't mind putting an AOD back in my car, since it came automatic anyway but no way would I go C4 as much as I drive it. I guess my main question is, how much power does it take to run 7.0's. I just bought a wore out '92 5.0 5-speed coupe last night that isn't quite as nice of a car, so If I have to change a lot of my current parts, I might well just start fresh on the another car. I can use some of the parts from my car for the build, and put mine back closer to stock. The '92 is also a SSP, but it isn't very nice, and I don't mind cutting on it or putting a c4 in it. Either way, How much power will it take to run the time? I have set of 1 3/4 headers and a canton pan for a 351. I thought about using my Windsor Sr's and a carb/efi or spyder style intake. Basically I really am clueless LOL :idunno:.

PM, me, I run 7.0 with my stickshifted car. its best that your car can run 6.80s or 10.80s all out, and maybe take timing out or put weight in the car to run 7.0. leave a stick in it, and go after it...

 

[GTdriver]

I am probably going to try the TKO, since I already have it and if I can't get consistant with some seat time, I'll look into a C4. Is a 351 pump gas motor with windsor sr's and a EFI spyder intake capable of running 7.0?

 

[Raceallday1]

Getting the car to run fast enough to compete in the 7.0 class isn't that hard, the problem is the skill your going to need to be competetive.

I used to run in that class. You better know your car extremely well and be damn good on a pro-tree. You need to be able to get .420 lights or better, and run dead on.

I remember one race in Valdosta several years ago. I was the number 8 qualifier and I ran a 7.01 on a 7.00 index! I broke out one time with a 6.999, and the other car ran a 7.001. That should give you an idea of how competetive that class is.

As mentioned above, the car needs to be able to run 6.80s. Even in the hottest part of the summer.