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Discussion Starter #1
I of all people should know this, but usually I don't mis-match parts too much, at least on this scale.

I'm getting into the carburetor rebuilding business [my late fathers trade, and nobody in this area is doing this work anymore], and I want to go one better than dear old dad. My father had problems with people bringing him their carburetors to rebuild, and he would build them. Many times the customers would come back griping that the carb dad built was junk, and on, and on. Most of the time, the customers cars were junk with NUMEROUS problems, but the rebuilt carb was always blamed.

If my father would have just built a test engine to run the carbs he rebuilt BEFORE handing them over to his customers, I think he would have saved a lot of time, and suffering. Also, there is the chance that something is wrong with the carb he just built, and it would have been better to have been able to run/tune it before it goes out to the customer.

So far I don't know how far this new business venture is going to go. At the moment its steady at around 2 jobs a week, but it might dry up after tax time, which is why I don't want to invest in anything too expensive, like a sand blaster/cabinet, etc.

However, I've just about got all spare parts to build a test engine, but again it has to be cheap, plus the engine isn't going to be used for cruising down the road, or racing, but it has to be in known good working order which is why I'm going to rebuild it.

Problem is this. I have several old 302 crankshafts [28oz balance] which used the two piece rms, and one 1983, 5.0l block which I think was the first to use the one piece rms.

Now the question is, will the 302 crank work in that 5.0l block? I already have the 302 rods, balancer, and flexplate, so all I need is 302 pistons in a rebuild kit so no need to worry about the 28 vs 50oz balance as the internals [plus balancer/flexplate] will all be 302, not 5.0.

Not to mention I've got several old 302 flat tappet camshafts to install in the engine, and I don't think the 5.0l got the rollor hyd cam in 1983 so that shouldn't be an issue.

Remember, I'm trying to keep costs as low as possible vs building an engine to run in a vehicle, as if the carb business drys up, I won't have much use for an extra stock 302.

Last I found some early small block Ford connecting rods dated C6 as in 1966 so I don't really know if these rods are 289 rods [5.155], or 302 rods [5.090 length] as I don't know if Ford just cast the new 302 rods with a C6 in the casting [kinda like how most all FE engines have 332 cast into the front of the block no matter if they are 390 to 427 cid].
 

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Those rods sound like 66 289 rods, wrong for a 302. 302 had roller cam starting in 85. IIRC, 302 was 28 once imbalance until about 83 but check this.........
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I picked up the block today, and there was a moment my heart leaped when I read the casting number which was E0--- 1980. But, after looking at the rear main seal cap, it was certain that the block used a one piece seal deal.

I dragged the block home anyway, and decided to check the garage, and low/behold I found a 5.0l crankshaft. It had quite a bit of surface rust on it, but I cleaned it up pretty good. The crank could use turning, but the one, and only local machine shop said it was cheaper to just buy a crank kit. So, I will buy/install an Ebay rebuild kit with new bearings, and run it until it knocks [again, this engine is just going to be a test mule for my rebuilt carb business].

The cylinders, were a different matter. I tried to hone them out, but there are visible grooves, and the new rings have to seal. So the block will have to be bored.

Now the only thing I need is stock 5.0 connecting rods. I'm pissed to think of how many of those rods I thew away thinking I would never use them again, especially seeing how much people are selling them.

Maybe I might get lucky, and find someone who wants to swap for my 289 rods as those have got to be getting a bit hard to find. Or, just sell the 289 rods for whatever the 5.0 rods cost.
 

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Crank is fine (stick it on a lathe and cut the oil slinger down to clear) and measure the rods with calipers. It should measure 3.5145 from the fork to the bottom of the pin hole, for a 5.090 rod
 

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I would just check Craigslist. People rip out old 5.0's and practically give them away. Just throw a distributor and a carb intake on it and you'll probably running for less than $400.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I ended up getting a used 87, 5.0 short block for $100, from a guy on Craigslist. Lucky it had the factory roller cam, lifters, forged pistons, rods, balancer, and crank.

I honed the cylinders, and they cleaned up pretty good. No scratch marks, or grooves up top, nor out of round spots [easy to see after honing]. The bad was the crank. The crank has miles of lines in it so I'll have to use the 5.0 crank I found in my garage as its in much better shape.

I also did a valve job today on the cylinder heads [D8's with HUGE chambers...lol]. I faced the valves yesterday, and ground the seats today. After the engine kit gets in I will lap the valves, assemble, and be done with the heads.

Now, I've got to find a timing cover, a 4bbl intake, and a steel dist gear, oh, and some pedestal rocker arms [I've got a full set of the old rail type rockers arm, but they won't work. ]

I put the other block, and the crank for sale local so hopefully I can get some of my $100 back for the engine kit, and other parts.

However, of all of the junk I've got posted for sale I haven't sold anything yet. I talked with some other guys I know who are trying to sell stuff, and it seems like this years tax refunds were a bust for many people, so there isn't as much spending/buying going on around my area.
 

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Other than the die hard Ford guys people are buying LS stuff,. That and you can still get explorer motors in the junk yard.
 

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Polish the journals so nothing sticks up and call the lines in the crank "oil retention grooves"

Poof! The "bug" is now the "feature."
 

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Polish the journals so nothing sticks up and call the lines in the crank "oil retention grooves"

Poof! The "bug" is now the "feature."
Funny you say this. In the old days I discovered that my friends Mopar crank came with a groove for oil. When I hurt my 302 there was a large groove that ended up on some of the main journals but I simply polished any burrs and ran it as it was.. no problems with 250hp shot of N2O for years.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Polish the journals so nothing sticks up and call the lines in the crank "oil retention grooves"

Poof! The "bug" is now the "feature."
Man, I did that for at least two hours yesterday. Its whipped my ass hard today. I felt like I ran an endurance race, but I have to admit I was pretty amazed at how much better the crank looked.

Its not a crank I would throw in my car, and drive from east to west cost, but for an engine to test carbs, its fine. Oh, and it sucks to get old.
 
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