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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
New to this forum. Was wondering if anyone would know of any differences/issues with doing this swap into
an sn95 GT convertible vs into a coupe. Heard somewhere that there may be a couple of complications with the vert.
Unsure of what they might possibly be. Hoping that it is as straight forward as the coupe.
Looking for someone who has experience/knowledge with this swap. Want to figure out what I might be getting into
before I commit to the project.
Thanks
Fred
 

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If I were you, I'd copy exactly what Saleen did with the 1994-1998 Saleen Mustang convertible S351's. They put 351 windsors under the stock hoods using a certain year fox mustang motor mount, and then slotted the k-member. If you are going to use a different hood, then you probably won't have to worry about slotting the k-member.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was figuring I would need a different hood for sure since the KB blower cuts down clearance. Car is lowered 1.5 inches and if I lower the motor too much I may have oil pan ground clearance issues over speed bumps? There could also be clearance issues with steering etc with slotted K member? Gets too damn complicated..lol.
I will look more into what Saleen actually did.
Thanks for the advice.
 

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Correct mounts, swap headers, accessories etc... Don't dick with the K member just get a cowl hood. A PROPER 351 (408) swap is going to run you $6-$8k just for the engine so a few $hundred for a new hood is nothing.

Main issue with the vert and a 351 is beefing the chassis up to take it.

They also put 351s into 1999s which is a fully emissions legal/totally legal everything pushrod in a New Edge. Pretty cool but only like 40 or so made and $$$$$$$$.
 
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strut tower braces are not readily available for the SN 351 swap. I made mine. Better have a solid welded set of subframes in there too. SN's have a reputation for flexing and breaking the radiators over time. It has to do with the radiator mounts.

There really isn't any difference between the Vert and a Coupe other than the chassis stiffening. There's a lot of info online about what it takes to swap a 351 into the SN. A tall cowl hood is necessary. Think 3" or greater ( I have a 3.5"), depending on your intake choice.

Really knowing how to work on your car is also necessary.

Swapping to the 351 should also include a fox TB swap or a full stand alone EFI and aftermarket TB setup. Tuning, transmission concerns, exhaust, etc.... To do it right requires a total package. If I wasn't dead set on keeping the pushrod, I would be all over the coyote swap in a later model that didn't have the windsor K-member style and already had hydroboost brakes.

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1057163
 

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Maximum also makes K member spacers that raise the body of the K member. Look pretty simple to do.
 

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For a mod like that I would add MM full length subframe connectors.
I put them on my stock 98 cobra vert and it was like a different car. The only downside is that you can't raise the car with the stock jack anymore, you need a floor jack under the sfc. Do it though. Cowl hood and MM sfc's.

A pro shop installed the sfc's for $50 IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For a mod like that I would add MM full length subframe connectors.
I put them on my stock 98 cobra vert and it was like a different car. The only downside is that you can't raise the car with the stock jack anymore, you need a floor jack under the sfc. Do it though. Cowl hood and MM sfc's.

A pro shop installed the sfc's for $50 IIRC.
Thanks. Have the full length welded connectors now and the car feels very tight (not sure which brand).
Wasn't aware about not being able to use the car jack. That's good to know. Fifty bucks to install is a
very good deal
 

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Try Kenny Brown jacking rails, extreme bracing and subframe connectors tied together and welded with rod that won't rust and you won't have any flex in your convertible. Just make certain that your welder gets the car straight, tire pressure equal, convertible top locked, and any adjustment on springs dialed in because once it's welded in the car, that's it. If it's torqued, the top will not close correctly and you'll be investing in a new top in the near future. You may even consider going old school and plumb bobbing points on the frame before doing any of this to make certain that things are lined up.
 
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