I tried running that intake on my 363/Eaton setup. While it was a great intake on the stock block 306/Eaton setup (went 10.5's at 129 before splitting the block), it absolutely sucked on the 363. It positively choked the 363 by 5,000 rpm. I was geared to run ~6,300 rpm through the traps, and learned (the hard way) that your tuning window shrinks dramatically when you go too far past your power band. It melted three pistons and scuffed all 8 bores. I cut 5.5" of runner and 11 lbs of aluminum out of the intake and ported it to the limits of the casting, and was able to move the hp peak to 6,150 rpm N/A with a 228/242 on a 116 cam (the motor is now a 365 due to the scuffing). I hung a 2.3 liter Whipple in place of the Eaton, and peak power is now around 5,700 or so - it doesn't nose over until after 6,000 rpm.
Here's some photos of the hackery for your entertainment:
Here's how my ported intake aligned with the unported heads (these are borescope images):
And now the intake/head interface looks like this:
And finally, I checked the pushrod sweep - I used 6.750" long pushrods:
And put the whole thing together:
Sharp eyes will notice the funky Isuzu (or somesuch) fuel pressure regulator I'm using. That might be an issue. I'll let you guys know what happens there...
...And I put the whole mess in the car:
Unless you don't value your time at all, you'd be better off with another intake. Knowing what I know now, I would've done a carb style EFI intake and been done with it much sooner and been able to turn a few more rpm. Though my intake now says, "Trick" on it. Which is kinda cool. I guess.