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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there. I'm new to these forums.

Working on a 94 gt 5.0 build and had a question. I made a post yesterday but it said it had to be approved by an admin and still hasn't shown up so not sure if I did it right.

Question is:

302 is at the machine shop. Full rebuild and punched out .030 over. They zero decked the block (.030" off) and are milling the heads .012" (holly systemax 2.02's, 63cc down to 61cc combustion chambers). That's a total of .042" total cut. Are we going to run into any intake manifold alignment problems? Would elongating the holes and using a thicker bead of RTV front and back be a viable solution if it is mismatched? Or does the intake sides need to be milled for proper fitment?

The engine builder says there shouldn't be a problem. In my research online I've found different answers so I figured I ask here...

Thanks in advance!
 

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I would say if you trust the engine builder to machine and build your engine, then trust in his work. Express to him your concerns and let him do his job. If he knows what he’s doing (and I hope he does considering you hired him) you’ll be all set.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I agree. I was just seeing if anyone had any personal experience with cutting the block and heads at the same time and how thier intake manifold fit after.
 

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Gotcha, I don’t blame you at all. If anything you’ll learn more about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Quick question, sometimes when I make a post it says it needs to be approved be an admin and nothing happens. Am I doing something wrong?
 

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There is no telling if it will need to be altered, unless he is assembling the engine he wont know either. The guy putting it together will be the one that will know
 

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Hi there. I'm new to these forums.

Working on a 94 gt 5.0 build and had a question. I made a post yesterday but it said it had to be approved by an admin and still hasn't shown up so not sure if I did it right.

Question is:

302 is at the machine shop. Full rebuild and punched out .030 over. They zero decked the block (.030" off) and are milling the heads .012" (holly systemax 2.02's, 63cc down to 61cc combustion chambers). That's a total of .042" total cut. Are we going to run into any intake manifold alignment problems? Would elongating the holes and using a thicker bead of RTV front and back be a viable solution if it is mismatched? Or does the intake sides need to be milled for proper fitment?

The engine builder says there shouldn't be a problem. In my research online I've found different answers so I figured I ask here...

Thanks in advance!
Your machinist should know how to make it work. Either memory or a chart like this one.
If he mills your intake he doesn't know what he's doing. The intake side of the head should be milled .001 for every .0045 taken off the block or head mating surface.

 

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What I in situations like this is assemble the long block. INSTALL GASKETS to the intake with small daubs of silicone then sealer the side real well on the head side . Install intake using some studs as guides torque down the intake let it sit until glue hardens then remove intake. Then remove intake see if there is a mismatch. Or do the opposite couple daubs to the head and glue to intake side. Then you can see if there is a mismatch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Your machinist should know how to make it work. Either memory or a chart like this one.
If he mills your intake he doesn't know what he's doing. The intake side of the head should be milled .001 for every .0045 taken off the block or head mating surface.

Thanks for the info! As you said the .001 for every .0045 makes sense for sure. But why does the chart say .01 for every .045? Cool thing is I thought I was going to lose 2cc's with .012" off the heads. According to the chart it will be closer 3cc. We'll take every bit of compression we can get :)

What I in situations like this is assemble the long block. INSTALL GASKETS to the intake with small daubs of silicone then sealer the side real well on the head side . Install intake using some studs as guides torque down the intake let it sit until glue hardens then remove intake. Then remove intake see if there is a mismatch. Or do the opposite couple daubs to the head and glue to intake side. Then you can see if there is a mismatch.
Great idea! We had planned on cutting the hold manifold bolts and using them as studs. What kind of sealer/glue do you use?
 

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Thanks for the info! As you said the .001 for every .0045 makes sense for sure. But why does the chart say .01 for every .045? Cool thing is I thought I was going to lose 2cc's with .012" off the heads. According to the chart it will be closer 3cc. We'll take every bit of compression we can get :)
My mistake on saying .001, it is .01
You also said .045 when it's .0045

Good thing we're not machinists :D

I've been using the same shop all my life, when I say I want .xxx taken off I just ask 'you'll do the intake side too right?'
And it all comes out perfect.
 

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Have used hitack, Indian head. Just something so just the daubs of silicon comes loose with out it pulling the other side off. You can then decide whether to match the ports or machine the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Picked up the motor today. Looks great. They even painted it.

He said put the intake and heads on and if it's a mismatch he said he would machine the intake or heads depending on fitment.

Also said to use 10w-30 for break in, which consists on 3 or 4 warming up / cooling down periods. Then use 20w-50 after that. Also pointed out that we need to bleed the lifters. We had them soaking in oil the day we bought them. He said having them pumped up will effect the preload. Makes sense even though I've read opposite on different forums.

Another thing I noticed is it looks like he used the older style flat top pistons without the recess in the middle like the ones that came in the '94 302 motor. The piston says "P 1501 .030" and under that is says "02116 2". Looks like we'll pick up a little compression with those flat tops so cool lol. Anyone know the cc size of the valve relief's on these pistons?
 
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