Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 101 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everybody,

I am looking for a blow-up diagram and rebuild instructions for the original 2.1 Kenne Bell Supercharger. I am wondering if anyone got an old KB service manual or a lead to a good place to find the diagram/specs for the rebuild? Which oil do I need and how much would I need to put in there, etc. I have the original KB 2.1 made for our 5.0s up to 95 with the standard inlet. See pictures attached to this thread.

I have tried the search function and I also have tried the powerful google search, which netted me zero results.

The Kenne Bell will go on my mildly modified 5.0 in a 1993 GT. I am putting bunch of new goodies under the engine bay and figured since i am having everything freshened up I might as well freshen this supercharger up. I bought it from a local guy a few months back so I don't exactly have a good background on it so I suppose a rebuild cant be a bad idea. Anyone advise against this idea?

I may also paint the supercharger to make it nice again. It is not all that bad in its current state though.

Any input will be appreciated- Thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
That's not a kenne bell 2.1, its an older opcon/autorotor compressor that kenne bell used prior to their own designs. The newer 2.1 has a different front cover with the Kenne Bell logo. Here's a comparison pic I took the other weekend while working on a custom install. Top is my autorotor 2.2L, bottom is my Kenne Bell 2.1.



On a mustang kit, your compressor is most likely a 1.5L or 2.2L. Check the serial number on the silver band behind the front cover, if it starts MX422 or OA422, its a 2.2L. OA3150 is a 1.5L.
With a pulley that small, and a non-bypass setup, I'm guessing its a 1.5L
There were also 1.7L (MX417 or OA417) and 2.0L (MX420 or OA420) options, but very uncommon.

Rebuilding the compressor involves rotor timing, its not a DIY project. Kenne Bell still rebuilds the old autorotors, as does Jon Bond. I've had good experiences with parts and service from both. Kenne Bell has really had outstanding customer service for me, so I recommend them first and foremost.

Here's the best thread I've seen on rebuilding one yourself, certainly not a process I'd want to try. Great pics though.
http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/showthread.php/168234-has-anyone-rebuilt-a-kenne-bell

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much for the input. I just assumed I had the 2.1 based on the information I found. I much appreciate you correcting me on this!

I will have to check the serial number when I get home later today.

I will look into what is involved in rebuilding the kit in that link you just shared. I will also try to reach out KB to see if they can service it. Do you have any idea how much it should cost to service the kit? My concern is mainly about the shipping as it probably cost me good money for round trip shipping on this heavy item.

Considering it is an old unit I figured it wont be worth the pretty penny to get it serviced and all that. The previous owner insists that it ran good when he pulled it off. Just looks dirty and based on how his garage looked I very much doubt that he maintained this supercharger at any point so I am trying to be precautious, maybe for nothing.

I will chime back in later today. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Welp... just read the link you provided... $900 for the service!!! Plus shipping! My jaw literally dropped.

Probably got to just clean it up the best I can and hope for the best haha.

That's not a kenne bell 2.1, its an older opcon/autorotor compressor that kenne bell used prior to their own designs. The newer 2.1 has a different front cover with the Kenne Bell logo. Here's a comparison pic I took the other weekend while working on a custom install. Top is my autorotor 2.2L, bottom is my Kenne Bell 2.1.



On a mustang kit, your compressor is most likely a 1.5L or 2.2L. Check the serial number on the silver band behind the front cover, if it starts MX422 or OA422, its a 2.2L. OA3150 is a 1.5L.
With a pulley that small, and a non-bypass setup, I'm guessing its a 1.5L
There were also 1.7L (MX417 or OA417) and 2.0L (MX420 or OA420) options, but very uncommon.

Rebuilding the compressor involves rotor timing, its not a DIY project. Kenne Bell still rebuilds the old autorotors, as does Jon Bond. I've had good experiences with parts and service from both. Kenne Bell has really had outstanding customer service for me, so I recommend them first and foremost.

Here's the best thread I've seen on rebuilding one yourself, certainly not a process I'd want to try. Great pics though.
http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/showthread.php/168234-has-anyone-rebuilt-a-kenne-bell

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
$900 is probably about right with the drive rebuilt and shipping.

I’d have it rebuilt if you’re worried about 100% reliability for a daily driver, but thats just me.

Give it an oil change and make sure old oil looks good without metal particles or contamination. I always run kenne bell oil in my compressors, but redline 50w synthetic is supposedly the same oil just without the blue coloring for visibility on dipstick.

I change mine every 10k miles.

Kenne bell oil info:
Supercharger Oil & Oil Level Recommendations | Kenne Bell

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
$900 is probably about right with the drive rebuilt and shipping.

I’d have it rebuilt if you’re worried about 100% reliability for a daily driver, but thats just me.

Give it an oil change and make sure old oil looks good without metal particles or contamination. I always run kenne bell oil in my compressors, but redline 50w synthetic is supposedly the same oil just without the blue coloring for visibility on dipstick.

I change mine every 10k miles.

Kenne bell oil info:
Supercharger Oil & Oil Level Recommendations | Kenne Bell

Chris
Many thanks once again for passing on some KB knowledge. The oil level spec info was super helpful. I will order some KB supercharger oil to replace the oil in my unit.

I finally got around to getting back into my garage today on my off day. I found that my serial number label was washed out due to age I suppose. Therefore I am unable to directly identify which unit do I have.

I also went ahead with some disassembly to see the internals for myself.. Nothing looks alarming. Everything appears normal and the rotors spin freely/smoothly. I think I feel pretty good about running this after I swap out the oil.

Is it ok If I used brake cleaner to clean out some of the gunk sitting on the rotors and on the back of the unit? Will it hurt anything? I am thinking about painting the unit to clean up the look a bit.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Too bad you couldn't find the serial number. But going by the pulley size and your discharge manifold having 6 bolts vs the 5 and plug on the 2.2, that looks like the standard 1.5 kit. Still a fun setup for the street. I had one before the 2.1 and it was a blast.

I wouldn't use brake clean on the internals, just a mild degreaser and soft brush should do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
888 Posts
I wouldn't use a brush whether it is soft or not. A damp lint free cloth with Dawn will be fine as long you don't get it soaked. Have a dry cloth to go over it immediately. A little air might be good to dry and also get any fine debris out. These have pretty tight tolerances on the lobes and any debris can cause premature wear. Even all that old oil can cause issues. These superchargers need clean uncontaminated air to function fully and reliably. I bypassed my valve cover to TB breather as soon as I bought my first KB in 1992 knowing the factory 5.0 come with loose rings (sorry low tension springs, LOL).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Too bad you couldn't find the serial number. But going by the pulley size and your discharge manifold having 6 bolts vs the 5 and plug on the 2.2, that looks like the standard 1.5 kit. Still a fun setup for the street. I had one before the 2.1 and it was a blast.

I wouldn't use brake clean on the internals, just a mild degreaser and soft brush should do.
Got it, 1.5 it is! I took off the gear cover if that helps. see attached pics. I also found some numbers stamped on side of the blower case, not sure if they represent anything?

I got myself some carb cleaner and cleaned it downwards exiting the back end. looks a lot cleaner now. I taped it off good and currently am prepping the case before shooting paint on them. I did not bother with the brush.. Those oil residue are quite minimal and I am happy with what I am seeing considering the exterior represented an abused blower, but on the inside it everything looks pretty good. What do I know though!? :p

Anyone got an experience with Duplicolor Engine Enamel Clear? I am wondering if it is OK for me to shoot the clear on the parts one week or later? Considering I would like to paint the raised letterings in white before shooting clear over them.

I had excellent results with the engine enamel paints on my other stuff and plan on using them, however, I have never used the clear on any of my parts because I did not want too much of a gloss. Maybe I will skip the clear coat on the case and the plenum too. I am just worried about the longevity without the clear. Duplicolor does make high heat clear if I decide to go with it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Personally I wouldn't paint the compressor or manifolds. Reason being, that paint will keep the unit from naturally dissipating heat to some degree. And you're going to need all the cooling you can get without a bypass. If the factory anodized finish is badly worn, I would lean more towards stripping it and polishing the compressor or just leaving it a brushed finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Personally I wouldn't paint the compressor or manifolds. Reason being, that paint will keep the unit from naturally dissipating heat to some degree. And you're going to need all the cooling you can get without a bypass. If the factory anodized finish is badly worn, I would lean more towards stripping it and polishing the compressor or just leaving it a brushed finish.
I respect your opinion. I think the difference in heat dissipation will be very minimal. I have seen many painted blowers run without issues. Matter of fact I already have them all painted except for the snout at this point. I will post updated picture in a little bit after I am done with the painting. I need to paint the snout and then file the paint off the raised letterings on the plenum and manifold.

Can somebody tell me what is the best way to remove this allen bolt from the pulley on the snout? I am trying to remove it so I can properly paint this piece. Or do I need a press? I have a 1250 torque earthquake impact gun and it could not break the allen bolt free.. Any ideas? Thanks
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I just spent last 2.5 hours scrapping the black paint off the raised letterings and now I think they look awesome!

Gonna have to wait about a week to let the enamel cure before I can shoot clear over all of the pieces. I wont be running the blower for a good while anyway. I recently finished painting my naked engine bay. Will start assembling everything together shortly.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,769 Posts
you need a KB wrench that inserts into the two holes

also i agree with the recommendation made not to paint it

its a bad idea
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
you need a KB wrench that inserts into the two holes

also i agree with the recommendation made not to paint it

its a bad idea
Thats what I thought when I observed the pulley. Might just make my own wrench using a steel flat and pair of bolts. Thanks

I have already moved forward with the paint - I dont think I am going backwards at this point. I am a little surprised with the input considering I know for sure I am not the first person doing this and I have not seen anyone say theirs failed due to the painted case. Personally, I don’t see how there can be a major difference in heat dissipation. I am positive it will be very minimal. Does anyone have the real world experience where the blower failed due to the paint? Or it is all just a precaution?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
It looks like you did a nice job painting it. My recommendation to not paint was just more of a precautionary measure. Ive never seen one painted or heard of any ill effects. But i do know that a couple coats of paint will create a barrier reducing the ability to alleviate heat. I cant say how detrimental it will be, but Im sure thats why Kenne Bell anodized their compressors. The compressor itself will unlikely see much damage from excessive heat. But.. you will melt/distort the green coupler behind the snout if ran too hot for too long. For safe measure, I would purchase a new one from Kenne Bell, Jon Bond, or eBay before reassembly. I can't say for sure what you'll end up with for boost, but it looks like you have a 2 1/8 pulley, and with a stock crank pulley you'll probably end up with 7-8#. With water/meth and a 1200 ml/min nozzle I think you'll be fine.

The other concern with heat is timing being pulled and reduced performance. With that unit not having a bypass, theres no way for it to cool down enough at idle and decel. That really becomes an issue when you start approaching 10#. The 1.5L was mainly intended to be used with a stock motor and no greater than 5-7#.

I don't mean to discourage you from running that unit at all. I think you'll be very pleased with it as long as you don't step outside of its intended use and get greedy with boost. That's how I melted the coupler in my old 1.5L.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
The washed out plate is just the carb number, stamped numbers in side of case is serial.
From discharge pattern its a 1.5 or 1.7. For a mustang kit, almost certainly a 1.5.

First 4 numbers of serial should be 3150 for a 1.5L.

If you’re ordering oil from kenne bell, just order the pulley remover as well. Not super expensive. Make sure you retorque pulley bolt to correct spec. I believe 55ft/lbs, but its been awhile since I removed my pulley. They can tell you for sure when you call. Or I can check my manual when i’m home.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
It looks like you did a nice job painting it. My recommendation to not paint was just more of a precautionary measure. Ive never seen one painted or heard of any ill effects. But i do know that a couple coats of paint will create a barrier reducing the ability to alleviate heat. I cant say how detrimental it will be, but Im sure thats why Kenne Bell anodized their compressors. The compressor itself will unlikely see much damage from excessive heat. But.. you will melt/distort the green coupler behind the snout if ran too hot for too long. For safe measure, I would purchase a new one from Kenne Bell, Jon Bond, or eBay before reassembly. I can't say for sure what you'll end up with for boost, but it looks like you have a 2 1/8 pulley, and with a stock crank pulley you'll probably end up with 7-8#. With water/meth and a 1200 ml/min nozzle I think you'll be fine.

The other concern with heat is timing being pulled and reduced performance. With that unit not having a bypass, theres no way for it to cool down enough at idle and decel. That really becomes an issue when you start approaching 10#. The 1.5L was mainly intended to be used with a stock motor and no greater than 5-7#.

I don't mean to discourage you from running that unit at all. I think you'll be very pleased with it as long as you don't step outside of its intended use and get greedy with boost. That's how I melted the coupler in my old 1.5L.
No harm no foul! I appreciate your input! I was just wondering if it was a precaution or if it was a known issue then I absolutely will strip all of my new paint off LOL

Green coupler. Hmm mine does look like it is in a great shape. Do you think I should replace it anyway? I will post a picture of it shortly to let you be the judge.

The washed out plate is just the carb number, stamped numbers in side of case is serial.
From discharge pattern its a 1.5 or 1.7. For a mustang kit, almost certainly a 1.5.

First 4 numbers of serial should be 3150 for a 1.5L.

If you’re ordering oil from kenne bell, just order the pulley remover as well. Not super expensive. Make sure you retorque pulley bolt to correct spec. I believe 55ft/lbs, but its been awhile since I removed my pulley. They can tell you for sure when you call. Or I can check my manual when i’m home.

Chris
Thanks man! It, indeed, is a 1.5 blower.

I will reach out KB to get the pulley tool if I decide to remove the pulley after all. I probably will. They dont seem to have a online store? I only could find their oil on ebay, not their website. Their website seems to be just an informational site.

Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Looking for some input here:

I have a Stock lower intake with stamped part nbr #rf-e6se-9k461-d3a - I wanted to confirm that this is the correct lower intake I need for my set up? I acquired this lower and 1.5 KB from a local guy so I wanted to be 100% sure before I start the prep for the paint. This lower seems to be from a 86 Mustang if I am not mistaken. But is it a HO intake? Can I use a better one like a original cobra lower intake or gt40?

If I remember correctly per the homework I did a while back, I am only limited to running the stock lower intake due to how the manifold is set up on the 1.5KB? I am not entirely sure, can anyone confirm on this?

Thanks in advance

-Jarvis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I think I answered my own question. I see GT40 and Cobra has the different manifold ports configuration. I guess I am limited to this stock lower intake. I am wondering if I should look into porting it? Will it be worth it?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
If the green coupler has play or looks melted, replace it. If it looks good and is tight, run it. They either get hot and melt, or are fine. No middle ground.

Kenne bell only sells over the phone. Kinda a PITA to get ahold of them sometimes, but they’re very helpful once you do get through. Jon bond sells the oil online or on ebay if you prefer ordering that way.

Tmoss can port a stock lower for you. It won’t flow nearly what a gt40 will, but will be fine for a non-bypass 1.5L. You shouldnt run that setup too hard anyway. I wouldnt push past 7-8psi.

Chris
 
1 - 20 of 101 Posts
Top