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I have stock springs and nice Tokico shocks for a fox body. I have the spring compressed as much as I can as the weight of the car is on it. (Lifted off the jackstand on the frame a bit) There is NO way I am going to be able to bolt this spindle to that shock! Do I HAVE to run lowering springs to do the front Cobra disc conversion?

 

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Put the jack (securely!) under the balljoint or outer lip of the A-arm, which gives it more leverage against the arm and not the whole car. It'll still come up off the stand but it'll lift the arm more than it'll lift off the stands. And if it gets too bad put another jack under the opposite arm and raise it, which will rock the body back down against the arm you're trying to raise.
 

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Do you have the .0330 spacer between the spindle and the ball joint. Just asking I don't think its related to your problem, But it may.
 

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Does the spacer go under the spindle or above the spindle? As I understand it goes above the spindle. I could be wrong.
 

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1993gt40 said:
Does the spacer go under the spindle or above the spindle? As I understand it goes above the spindle. I could be wrong.
It does go above so that the cotter pin engages the castle nut.

Another trick for your situation, undo the top of the strut. Then connect the strut to the spindle. Get the top of the strut in the caster/camber plate hole. When you lower the car, the strut shaft will go up. Bolt the strut shaft up and you are done.
 

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Have fun getting the nut on the ball joint once you have the strut in place. Getting that damn arm back up when I did my five lug conversion was probably the most physical strugle I have ever had while working on a car. I used the bullitt Tokico struts on my fox and it was all I could do to get an open end wrench on the nut and turn it down far enough that I could lightly tap a socket with extension down over the nut. I was using Steeda X2 ball joints to avoid the need to add the spacer in and to keep bump steer in the limits of the stock parts I was using. They use metal locking nuts and caused the ball joint stud to spin. I kept the stud from spinning by grabing it with a set of large hex vice grips. They did not leave a mark and got the job done.

Wes
 

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Wangstang said:
Have fun getting the nut on the ball joint once you have the strut in place. Getting that damn arm back up when I did my five lug conversion was probably the most physical strugle I have ever had while working on a car. I used the bullitt Tokico struts on my fox and it was all I could do to get an open end wrench on the nut and turn it down far enough that I could lightly tap a socket with extension down over the nut. I was using Steeda X2 ball joints to avoid the need to add the spacer in and to keep bump steer in the limits of the stock parts I was using. They use metal locking nuts and caused the ball joint stud to spin. I kept the stud from spinning by grabing it with a set of large hex vice grips. They did not leave a mark and got the job done.

Wes
I too now have the X2 balljoints. I used an impact gun and the nut when right down.
 

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Oktavius said:
I too now have the X2 balljoints. I used an impact gun and the nut when right down.
With the bullitt struts and springs with 94-95 spindles and X2's there was no room to fit a socket on the nut. None, Nada, Zilch. Atleast until I already had the nut threaded on a good ways. An impact probably would get the nut on down but seeing as I could not get a socket on it, I could not overcome the small level of friction it took to turn the ball joint in the socket in relation to the friction of the nut on the ball joint stud (it's locking).

Had I been using the wider track 96+ units (I had a set of 03's on hand), I would have had more room and probably could have used an impact.

Wes

On Edit: You do realize though that said ball joint nut is suppose to be tq'ed to 90 lb/ft or so right? Not tighted down until the impact can't give it any more loving.
 

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Wangstang said:
With the bullitt struts and springs with 94-95 spindles and X2's there was no room to fit a socket on the nut. None, Nada, Zilch. Atleast until I already had the nut threaded on a good ways. An impact probably would get the nut on down but seeing as I could not get a socket on it, I could not overcome the small level of friction it took to turn the ball joint in the socket in relation to the friction of the nut on the ball joint stud (it's locking).

Had I been using the wider track 96+ units (I had a set of 03's on hand), I would have had more room and probably could have used an impact.

Wes

On Edit: You do realize though that said ball joint nut is suppose to be tq'ed to 90 lb/ft or so right? Not tighted down until the impact can't give it any more loving.
I use the '96+ spindles.

On Edit: Yes, I did/do realize that they are supposed to be torqued. Technically everything should be torqued. I only used the impact gun to get the nut down to the spindle. When the nut made contact with the spindle the balljoint would not spin when using the torque wrench. Normal torquing proceeded.
 
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