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When I first started reading this thread, I remember being really sad that you were cutting out part of that beautiful cage you originally had in the car. But then I realized what a PITA getting in and out of the driver's seat would have been. In the grand scheme of things, you left the part that provides occupant protection if the car were to roll, so I realized that you were making logical choices.

I think you are at the point now where you can do some fine tweaking and enjoy tracking the car. But like you say, project cars are never fully finished. Did I remember that a blower might be in the car's future? A Kenne Bell 2.1 liter would be crazy cool! That would probably lead to a different transmission as well, LOL! Again, great job, hope you get to enjoy the car for many years to come!

Jay
 

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Also how does this car drive on the road. I assume it's a scary street car besides a race car. Is it overly loud so it draws lots of attention. I guess it draws attention. If I saw that coming at me I would look twice . It's the fender flares, and hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #943 ·
Also how does this car drive on the road. I assume it's a scary street car besides a race car. Is it overly loud so it draws lots of attention. I guess it draws attention. If I saw that coming at me I would look twice . It's the fender flares, and hood.
Its a rough ride with the spring rates not something you would want to drive everyday. It's honestly very quiet it really doesn't make much noise. When the plan was to autocross it locally there was a 93db at 75 feet rule for the noise the car would make. So I built it to run quiet I ended up doing to good of a job. When I was at chuckwalla a few people mentioned how quiet it was as it went by on the front straight. I also have 4 cats on the exhaust so they cut down on a lot of the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #944 ·
When I first started reading this thread, I remember being really sad that you were cutting out part of that beautiful cage you originally had in the car. But then I realized what a PITA getting in and out of the driver's seat would have been. In the grand scheme of things, you left the part that provides occupant protection if the car were to roll, so I realized that you were making logical choices.

I think you are at the point now where you can do some fine tweaking and enjoy tracking the car. But like you say, project cars are never fully finished. Did I remember that a blower might be in the car's future? A Kenne Bell 2.1 liter would be crazy cool! That would probably lead to a different transmission as well, LOL! Again, great job, hope you get to enjoy the car for many years to come!

Jay
I don't think I would go with a blower now I'm really enjoying the NA motor. What I would love to build either a all aluminum 363 or 427 just not sure I would want to do a cowl hood to fit a 427. I'm not sure why I would want to do a 427 in the car but I bet it would be a blast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #946 ·
For your speedo issue would this work? It’s been in my Cobra for a good bit and no complaints so far.

Nice thanks man that's awesome. I would have never thought they made something like this. I will see how long the latest cable lasts if I burn it I should go this route. How was hooking it up?
 

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I'm not sure why I would want to do a 427 in the car but I bet it would be a blast.
I know why, "no replacement for displacement"! Technically speaking, forced induction also increases displacement, but I do understand the appeal of natural aspiration.

I have a spare Dart 363 in the garage and have been contemplating Higgins canted valve heads for a 363 Clevor, always loved the Cleveland engines back in the day. I think with the Higgins heads and intake the engine would be a beast!

Jay
 

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Nice thanks man that's awesome. I would have never thought they made something like this. I will see how long the latest cable lasts if I burn it I should go this route. How was hooking it up?
Incredibly easy, I used an add-a-circuit for power and ziptied the box behind the cluster and ran the antenna so it sits just to the right of the dash pod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #949 ·
Having a little fun with bump steer wish I would have done this sooner.



This is a long process but hopefully it fixes some of the throttle over steer the car had coming out of corners. I really should have done this when I installed the IRS I guess live and learn. It will be interesting to see how it affects the car at the next event at the end of the month. I'm going to go over all 4 corners and reset the alignment when I'm done. I'm also going to try and corner balance the car if I have time.
 

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Did you end up with the same amount of shims on both sides? My car was different side to side on the IRS, front was the same. In fact no shims was too long on the passenger side and I had to move the inboard side up by one spacer.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #951 ·
Did you end up with the same amount of shims on both sides? My car was different side to side on the IRS, front was the same. In fact no shims was too long on the passenger side and I had to move the inboard side up by one spacer.

Jay
I haven't done the other side of the car yet. I'm still working on the passenger side right now. I sent Jack the graph of what I was getting with the recommended spacer setup from the instructions. Then he had me add a spacer to the outer tie rod. Then I tested that again last night and sent him the new graph. I'm hoping to have the rear of the car done by the end of the weekend so I have next week to work on the front. I will need to align the car again. That will take me a couple of days to get that done. If I have time I will corner balance it but not sure I will make it in time before the March 27-28 NMCA event.
 

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Discussion Starter · #952 ·
Finally got the driver rear bump steer set turns out my driver and passenger side of the car are running the same size spacers. Now I moved on to the front of the car. The first thing I had to do is get the front of the car on jack stands and get it leveled. Then it was getting the steering locked so it couldn't move. I used a couple vise grips on the steering shaft and pinning it to the kmember so it wouldn't move.



The one issue I've been running into with the really long wheel studs I have to run spacers between the bump steer hub plate to keep the bump steer frame from hitting the wheel studs.



I was able to get my baseline test last night and I found my bump steer is way off on the car at least on the driver side. My guess is its going to be just as bad on the passenger side. I'm hoping to get the driver side set tonight so I can move on to the passenger side tomorrow or Thursday. Then I need to start work on aligning the car and getting it ready for NMCA next weekend. I'm hoping to get it out for a test drive before the event to make sure everything is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #953 ·
So unfortunately NMCA was a bust this weekend. My hope for a great event went right down the tubes. I'm not sure why yet but for some reason the car started to over heat. The water temp was getting to 260+ and coming out of the overflow tank. Then on a separate note for some reason the Mocal sandwich plate was leaking oil so now I have a nice coating of oil under the car. I took a quick look this morning and I don't see anything like oil in the coolant. The oil temps were fine they stayed around 210 and the pressure was normal. If I had a issue with the head gasket I would figure the car would be smoking or something but everyone said it looked and sounded fine.

I'm not sure of the problem is the oil cooler in front of the radiator. Since my oil cooler sits around 3/4 of an inch from the radiator I built a shroud to direct the air through the cooler. You can see it in the picture below.



I'm wondering if this is creating a hot spot in the radiator. The cooler does cover a good amount of the center section of the radiator and with the heat of the oil cooler going into the radiator its causing the overheating. This event was the hottest event I've had the car out in with the radiator boxed with the oil cooler. The first NMCA event with the oil cooler hooked up was probably 15-20 degrees cooler and the chuckwalla event I didn't have the oil cooler installed.

I need to get the car on jack stands today and start taking a look at it today. I have the chuckwalla event at the end of April I still want to make which I think is possible as long as there isn't a major problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #954 ·
I wanted to do this post after a successful weekend of racing. But as you can see in the previous post it didn't go to plan. The weekend wasn't all bad it my not have gone to plan but there was some good that came from it. You can see in a few post back I started to bump steer the car. I honestly had never tried to bump steer the car before I basically eye balled it and called it good. I contacted Jack at MM because I had the car up on scales and wanted his advice on corner balancing the car. I told him how the car was handling what issues I was having and the first question he asked have I properly set the bump steer on the car. I told him no and he said until I do that don't even bother by doing anything else. The next event was coming up but I decided to follow his advice and bump steer the car.

The following is a public service announcement if you think you can just eye ball your bump steer you are wrong. I thought my car is close the tie rod looks level should be fine WRONG. I will say my rear wasn't that far off but I did have to adjust it. The first graph below shows the base and the final bump steer settings for the rear. The first base runs I didn't go as far on compression as I did for the rest of the runs Jack asked me to go another 1/2 inch.



You can see the base wasn't that far off of my final graph. I was lucky I only needed to mess with the outer tie rod height and was able to leave the inner alone. This graph is showing the base and the final for the passenger side of the car. The next one is showing the final for both sides of the rear. I was lucky that I'm running the same shim stacks heights on both sides of the car.



Now we move on to the front of the car. Which I will say was way off this is not how you want your bump steer graph to look like this is what eye balling it gets you and why I was having to put so much steering input into the car to get it to turn. The graph below is the first tests of the driver side front and yes those are the real numbers not me messing up my test. What you see in the graph is exactly what Jack expected I would see. I thought it was a mistake at first but it wasn't.



You can see the car is toe in and out wildly. This what eye balling it gets you. I went through the process of bump steering the front of the car I did run into a issue with the steering rack that will have to be corrected but I got the two sides as close as I could for now. I didn't have time to take all the measurements and do the work to get it perfect since the event was coming up but anything was going to be better then what I had.



Looking at this graph you can see how much better the front of the car is now. The blue line is the passenger side of the car the other is the driver side of the car. They don't match perfectly but that is due to the steering rack which I will get into another time once we figure out which part of the rack has the issue.

Now that you can see the mistake I made make sure you set the bump steer on the car. Nothing I would have do in shock tuning, alignment or corner balancing was going to fix this problem. Its a reminder you need to get the base right then work on the rest if you don't get the base right none of the other changes are going to help. You don't even need to get a really fancy bump steer gauge like I did. The one Maximum Motorsports makes will do the job.

Bumpsteer Gauge

If you want to get all Gucci on it you can go with the one I bought.

Longacre Digital Bump Steer Gauge 79015

The main point is just make sure you set it properly its one of the best things you can do for the handling of the car.

Fixing the bump steer made steering the car a lot easier. I had to put far less steering input into the car to get it to turn. It was hard to judge just how much faster the car was since the grip level this weekend was terrible the A052 didn't like the heat and wasn't the tire of the weekend. I think the BFG rivals would have been better or a narrower A052 the 315 side wall is to tall and pinched to work well. The next event I'm going to switch back to the BFG for the summer events.

Here's my fastest run from the weekend I should have filmed the inside of the car so you could see how much less steering I was using but didn't get a chance with the overheating issue.


It wasn't a perfect run I let the car slide a little to much and honestly the tires were not very confidence inspiring at turn in they were very numb and not very precise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #955 ·
For your speedo issue would this work? It’s been in my Cobra for a good bit and no complaints so far.

I lost another speedo cable so I bought one of these boxes to replace it. When you replaced yours what did you do to plug the end of the VSS sensor where the speedo cable goes in?
 

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I lost another speedo cable so I bought one of these boxes to replace it. When you replaced yours what did you do to plug the end of the VSS sensor where the speedo cable goes in?
I used a very high tech method of filling it with black RTV, not my proudest of decisions but it’s stating dry for now.

A company makes a nice machined aluminum piece but I can’t seem to find it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #958 ·
I used a very high tech method of filling it with black RTV, not my proudest of decisions but it’s stating dry for now.

A company makes a nice machined aluminum piece but I can’t seem to find it now.
I was going to do the same thing. I was just going to get fancier and cut the metal end off the speedo cable fill it with RTV and clip it in. There was a really nice plug made by Dakota Digital but they stopped making it went right into the back of the VSS sensor. I also heard you can get a VSS sensor out of a 94-95 mustang that already has a plug in the speedo cable hole since those cars didn't use a speedo cable.

Modern Driveline makes plugs for different manual transmissions.
I saw the plug they make but it eliminates the VSS sensor all together which I believe you need for the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #959 ·
Small update on the car. I put this in the I'm lazing category. After the issue with the car pushing fluid out of the radiator I decided to have a leak down test done on the car just in case there was a head gasket issue. I've never done one so I decided and in the interest of time i would take the car to a shop. The shop is JBA Racing and if your in SD you have probably heard of it. The motor is strong and the leak down test came back great they saw a 3% loss on all cylinders. They did do a compression test and all was good with it. They also fixed the heavy surging in the radiator.

Since we are in the lazy category. I decided to have them install the new clutch and flywheel. All the vibration stuff I was feeling was the clutch and flywheel. It spins up super smooth now 10 times better then before. It spins you really nice and downshifting is great what a difference a aluminum flywheel makes. i don't know what people are talking about when they say an aluminum flywheel sucks for driving. I read all this stuff about people stalling all the time and getting mad and pulling the aluminum flywheel out because they hated it so bad. I thought it was really easy to drive I didn't come close to stalling it at all. So I have no idea what people are complaining about.

Now that it's home I'm going to start working on the oil leak and getting the cooler hooked back up. I'm still figuring out if I'm going to run a thermostat on the oil cooler right now. I went to a external thermostat not one in the sandwich plate. I know getting the oil hot isn't going to be a problem at the next 4 events since its going to be so hot out. Then at the end of summer put the thermostat in when I add the Accusump. If I was daily driving it I would worry about the oil temps but at the autocross and track days I think it will be fine with no thermostat.

The cooling system the one thing I'm worried about. The new fan controller I got can control dual or single fans. I'm thinking of running the car with the shrouded fan first to see what happens. If it runs hot swapping it out with the single fan with no shroud and see if it improves. I already run a high amp plug on my cooling fans and swapping out the fans might not be that hard but I still need to mount the new fan setup to see what it will take.
 

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This is quite simple. If the car is a V8 and the owner says that they have problems driving the car with a 10.5" aluminum flywheel, then they don't know how to drive a stick, period.

In a 2.0l n/a car things are different as the engine has massively less torque to get the car moving.
 
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