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Since the car isn't going to have A/C, heater, stereo or anything else like power windows I didn't see a need for a 6g. The only auxiliary thing the car is going to need to run is the electric fan.
Ah. From what I understand the 6g is smaller, lighter, has less rotational inertia, and outputs the same power, for a similar price as the 3g. I figured everybody would be doing 6g nowadays. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #222
Ah. From what I understand the 6g is smaller, lighter, has less rotational inertia, and outputs the same power, for a similar price as the 3g. I figured everybody would be doing 6g nowadays. lol
This true except the price the ones I had looked at were around double or more what the 3g ones were if you went with a quality one. Not to mention most of the ones I saw didn't have the right mounting for the fox body they were designed for the 4.6 motors. For me the 3g would cover what I needed and bolt right in.
 

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Discussion Starter #224
Gotcha, yeah the 3G is pretty tried and true. For reference, the correct 6g alt is from a 2001-2004 3.8L mustang. :D
And in the end not enough research the 3g was what everyone was using there were kits for them so it was easy. Had I done better research I might have made a different decision on the alternator or who knows I might have still gone with the 3g.
 

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Discussion Starter #226
Sometimes I have shiny object problems case in point. There are a ton of more important things I could be working on but I started looking at this and went down the rabbit hole. I picked up a Scott rod fab piece for the front of the car its there bumper filler.



It started by seeing it sitting with a bunch of other parts I need to install and I started to look to see how it would fit. Next thing I know all the stuff is off the front of the car and I'm trying to line it all up.



I started on the passenger side of the car when I looked at the bottom of the pieces I noticed they were all marked for where everything went I was like great that will make it easy. But good thing I double checked because none of it lined up at all. So I started to measure out everything when I realized I didn't need to do that I just need to set the panel on the car reach under headlight area and mark the holes which worked out perfectly.



Then I started to work on the other side of the car but forgot to get pictures of it. Then worked on getting the center section done and the radiator hold down bracket holes drilled.



I still have a bunch of work to do on it but its almost done. I found a new prop rod clip so I'm waiting on that and a few other things so I'm going to work on more important stuff for the next few days like finish up the engine bay. I need to get this thing started and running to figure out if I have any problems with the motor which would suck but i know I could fix it.
 

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Nice build
 

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Great story and I've been there.

One suggestion, lots of Companies offer spherical steel bushing Caster / Camber plates. To get your streetable ride back find a phenolic bushing so the ride isn't so clunky up front. This was huge improvement when I ditched the Steeda C/C plates and went Hotchkis style.

Another suggestion is springs. I had those Eibach Progressive Rate springs that dropped the car like 1.5 up front an 1.25 rear, it was horrible. Had to crawl over pebbles, long tubes is a must for me to. I ditched them in favor of the FRPP springs with a 1" drop up front and 7/8" in the back.

A World of difference between just changing CC plates and springs back to much tolerable parts. I know most people go aggressive but I think you're more like me.
 

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Discussion Starter #230
Great story and I've been there.

One suggestion, lots of Companies offer spherical steel bushing Caster / Camber plates. To get your streetable ride back find a phenolic bushing so the ride isn't so clunky up front. This was huge improvement when I ditched the Steeda C/C plates and went Hotchkis style.

Another suggestion is springs. I had those Eibach Progressive Rate springs that dropped the car like 1.5 up front an 1.25 rear, it was horrible. Had to crawl over pebbles, long tubes is a must for me to. I ditched them in favor of the FRPP springs with a 1" drop up front and 7/8" in the back.

A World of difference between just changing CC plates and springs back to much tolerable parts. I know most people go aggressive but I think you're more like me.
If the car was going to be more for street use I would definitely go that route but since the car is mostly for autocross I'm not to worried about its street manners. All of the suspension is solid mounted the only place there is a poly bushing is in the rear lower shock mounts. The car is going to ride like a tank I know that but since the drive from my house to the autocross is about 4 miles of freeway driving its not a big deal to me. Plus driving a car that rides harsh every once and awhile for me is not a big deal I just wouldn't want to do that everyday. That's why my daily driver is bone stock and will never be touched.

Now I'm not saying I'm not planning on adding some boom mat to the car to get rid of some of the tin sound and help with some of the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
Started working more on wiring up the gauges in the car last night. I started by getting all the lines laid out so I could wrap them up.



Then got them all loomed together using DEI easy loom.



Then I separated the ground, power and illumination wires from the sensor wires so I could wire them up into my panel.



I passed all the cables through the firewall using one of the grommets that came with the gauges. I had to drill a 1 inch hole to get the grommet to fit.



Then I separated the wires for the different sensors. I'm going to put them in looms just ran out of time last night.



This should complete all the wiring that has to run under the intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #232
More work done on the engine bay this weekend. I wanted to get the EFI harness installed in the car. I need to first get all the lines for the gauges in and wrapped up. I wrapped up the lines and used tesa tape to tape up where the lines split up.



The green line is for the tach I'm going to tie it to the EFI harness.

Then got everything connected. I got this for the oil pressure sender so I could use the factory and aftermarket sender in the same place.



I put in the smog tube that runs down to the X-pipe and connected everything up to the smog pump.



Then I put the EFI harness back in the car.



I also got the TAD & TAB sensors installed and connected to the vacuum lines.



I also found a radiator hose that worked really good for my lower radiator connection.



It went pretty good this weekend I have allot of vacuum lines and the EVAP lines I need to get for the car but other then that I should have everything I need to get the engine bay all done.
 

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Looks good. Just like eating an elephant, one small step at a time and you will be done soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #234
Looks good. Just like eating an elephant, one small step at a time and you will be done soon.
Definitely when you start to work on it you realize all the thing you didn't think of when you started the build. Not to mention nothing seems to just go together there is always some level of modifying to make it work.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
Last night I finished up the work on the front bumper filler. When I first put it up the one thing that was bugging me is the red in the hood latch area so I decided to mask the front of the car off and paint where you could see the red. I really didn't want to paint the whole front of the car black.



Then I got both end pieces installed on the car.





Now with the center section on you can see how the black paint kind of hides the openings.





I have a couple more things to get paint up but all in all its done.

Yesterday I ordered the tires for the car I should have them tomorrow. I'm hoping to get them mounted and balanced this weekend or next week. I started to work on matching up the the fenders with which side they were going to go on. The tiger fenders aren't marked so you pretty much figure out which one you want to put on which side. I got them laid out and started to work on the front.





I'm pretty much ready to cut on the front fenders so I'm going to start in the next few days I just need to pick up some more cutting wheels. I'm going to lay out the rears tonight to get ready to have them done.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
I started to work on getting the rear flares laid out so I can get them ready to cut. I'm going to be taking a far amount of the rear fenders off to get the tires to fit.





I also got the tires today for the car. I'm going to try and get them mounted tomorrow.



I also got the EVAP purge valve mounted last night. I have the hose coming for the PCV and the EVAP system. I'm hoping to get it all plumbed up this weekend so I can get the upper intake on the car.



Next thing will be working on getting the fuel system finished up and I still need to get a driveshaft for the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #237
Quick update I got the tires mounted on the rims. There not as big as I thought its still going to take allot of fender work but not as bad as I thought.









I guess I need to get started on the body work.
 

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Discussion Starter #239
Your car is going to have some epic grip with those steamrollers. Wish I had the stones to modify for serious meats!

Jay
Trust me its going to be hard to cut up the rear of the car. The fronts are not a big deal to me since you can always get new fenders its the rear that is hard since once its done there's no going back.
 

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Pete, make sure you document how many beers it took to acquire enough liquid courage to cut the car. I need to know for future endeavors haha!
 
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