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Discussion Starter #201
Is there enough room for the cap? Looks pretty tight. But looks great man. That's going to be a very clean system when you're done. Your build has definitely outpaced/done mine!
The oil fill is going on the driver side so there's plenty of room for it. It should look good when its done lets hope it works as good as it will looks. At least your car runs I really need to stop getting side tracked on things like this and just work on getting the car done. How is the IRS coming?
 

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The oil fill is going on the driver side so there's plenty of room for it. It should look good when its done lets hope it works as good as it will looks. At least your car runs I really need to stop getting side tracked on things like this and just work on getting the car done. How is the IRS coming?
Definitely man. I think it'll look great. I like the fittings you used to get thru the cover and baffling it. Most would just yolo and throw it in there to vacuum oil lol.

Almost there. Ordered the axle nuts and DS flange today. Hurt my shoulder on this behemoth Monday night so it's been a slow and steady pace for me. Right now fighting the worlds biggest circlip that holds the wheel bearings in on the spindles. But one side is together, the other side isn't far behind. Scary part is mocking the exhaust up.. it's going to be fun to get it to my desired level of fitment. It is by no means bolt on... beware if you ever choose to bring this evil upon yourself lol
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Definitely man. I think it'll look great. I like the fittings you used to get thru the cover and baffling it. Most would just yolo and throw it in there to vacuum oil lol.

Almost there. Ordered the axle nuts and DS flange today. Hurt my shoulder on this behemoth Monday night so it's been a slow and steady pace for me. Right now fighting the worlds biggest circlip that holds the wheel bearings in on the spindles. But one side is together, the other side isn't far behind. Scary part is mocking the exhaust up.. it's going to be fun to get it to my desired level of fitment. It is by no means bolt on... beware if you ever choose to bring this evil upon yourself lol
The IRS is in the future plans probably a couple years down the road. I was going to go with the IRS in the beginning but decided its not needed at this time since I have a really good live axle setup. I won't lie when I saw the pictures of your IRS install I started looking them up online. I had to tell myself to step away that's a project for another time lets just get the car on the road.
 

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The IRS is in the future plans probably a couple years down the road. I was going to go with the IRS in the beginning but decided its not needed at this time since I have a really good live axle setup. I won't lie when I saw the pictures of your IRS install I started looking them up online. I had to tell myself to step away that's a project for another time lets just get the car on the road.
That's what happened to me. A buddy convinced me to do it after preaching to me for the last year. He has a really nice notch with an 03/04 FTBR unit. Then I ended up being able to trade for this IRS and wa-la. Suddenly I was on to another project! haha.

I would love to widebody/small flare the car and do the stanced out track rat look, but I'd hate to cut the car up for a look. Once I get the new wheels and check fitment I'll have a better idea of what I want to do anyway. Your car will pull off that track rat/race car/street car look really well with some small bolt on flares with black button head allen bolts. It'll be stout.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
I would love to widebody/small flare the car and do the stanced out track rat look, but I'd hate to cut the car up for a look. Once I get the new wheels and check fitment I'll have a better idea of what I want to do anyway. Your car will pull off that track rat/race car/street car look really well with some small bolt on flares with black button head allen bolts. It'll be stout.
I know how you feel the front I'm not worried about cutting up I can just get new fenders if something goes wrong its the rear that I'm having problems with. The body on my car is perfect no rust or anything but that's what you get with a California car. Cutting up the back is the one part of this build that isn't easily reversed.

I finally got the oil fill installed on the car it came out pretty good. Now I'm finally done with the valve covers so I can move on to other stuff on the motor. I really need to stop adding stuff to the build and get the car done.





Unfortunately I'm not going to get to work on the car this weekend since we have a two day autocross.
 

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Is that lower tmoss ported? I just bought an Explorer manifold for my new '95 street car, I plan on getting the lower opened up, seems to be a great mod for these intakes.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Is that lower tmoss ported? I just bought an Explorer manifold for my new '95 street car, I plan on getting the lower opened up, seems to be a great mod for these intakes.

Jay
No its still stock I never had it ported. I'm thinking about having that done on phase 2 of the car but right now just want to get it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
After a long weekend of not getting to work on the car I got some work done on it last night. I wanted to get started on some of the electrical. My hope this weekend is to get the EFI harness back in the car and start getting everything connected. I decided a while back since I wasn't going to be using the A/C or heater in the car or stereo they would be a good source of power for my gauges. So I bought a couple fuse blocks and decided to make a mount that would sit where the A/C and heater controls used to be.

I started out by using a 10x4 piece of aluminum I got from a metal supply place. Marker everything up and drilled all the holes I would need to mount it.



Then mounted the fuse blocks to it so I could test fit it to the car.



It worked out pretty good now all I have to do is paint it to match the interior.



This should work out good my plan is to drill a hole right above the main connection lugs and run the power wire to it. Then run the power wire from the gauges through another hole down and connect to the fuse block. I'm going to run my gauges off one panel and the widebands off the other.

Then I jumped back to working on the engine bay. About a week ago I was looking at the motor and I realized there was no way my old strut tower brace was going to work with the intake up higher and the motor sitting back an inch. I was right it was hitting the intake a in a couple spots. I hated to see the old one go it had been on the car for over 20 years but it was time to move on. I decided to pick up a MM strut tower brace. I was worried that it might be a problem with the breather fitting I added to the valve cover but luckily it wasn't a problem. I haven't mounted it yet to the car since I have a ton more work to do before I get to that point but I did put it into place to see how it fit.





The plan this week is to get the rest of the engine compartment finished up so I can move on to the brakes and body work next week. I need to start focusing on one section at a time and not bouncing around. I'm going to try and purchase the tires next week for real this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
Let try posting this again. So I tried to post this earlier but for some reason it disappeared. After a long weekend of not working on the car I finally got to work on it. I decided to work on getting some of the stuff I need to get done for so I can start wiring the car. I added 5 gauges to the car and I need a place to draw power for them. Since I'm not going to use the A/C heater or stereo I knew those would be good places to get power since they were switched sources. I started by getting a aluminum plate from a metal supply place and getting the fuse blocks marked out and drilled.



Then mounted the fuse blocks to the panel.



I planned on mounting it right were the A/C and heater controls were in the car.



I'm going to put a small hole right above the lugs for the main power and run the power lines into the fuse block. Then make another hole to run the power lines to the gauges. I'm going to run my 4 autometer gauges off one block then my widebands off the other block. I still have to paint it black like the interior.

I also did some test fitting of my MM strut tower brace. The one I had in the car wasn't going to fit with the engine sitting back and the intake spacer I wanted to use it but it would have taken to much to make it fit. I decided to pick up a MM one from LMR.





At first I was worried it was going to get close to the breather line I created but it wasn't even close. I'm going to get the holes drilled for it but won't end up mounting it until everything is done in the engine bay.

This week plan is to get the engine bay finished up so I can move on to the brakes and body work next week. I'm going to try and the get the tires for the car next week so I can start test fitting everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Quick update finished making the fuse panel for the car it came out pretty good. I first got the panel painted block using the LMR interior paint.



Then I tracked down the two wires I was going to use to power the fuse panels. The first one I used was the 30amp one that runs the A/C and heater. Its the black and orange wire on this 4 pin connector.



The other wire I had to track down was the 15amp power line to the stereo. It's the yellow and black wire in this 5 pin connector.



I put some ring terminals on the wires and connected them to the fuse panels.



I'm going to use the 15amp fuse panel for all the autometer gauges. Then I'm going to use the 30amp one for the widebands since they pull the most power. This will give me open fuse spaces just in case I want to add more gauges or anything else. Next I need to find the dimmer lines for the gauges. I believe the white and purple wires in the first connector are for the dimmer function. I need to go through my wiring diagrams to verify.
 

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The fact you use OEM hardware location makes me happy. Anytime anyone drills a hole in the dashes of these cars makes me cringe.. it's not something that you can repair lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #212
I’m with you I’m doing everything I can to avoid putting holes in the dash. I did put two right where the wires run to the fuse panels but you will have a really hard time finding them.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
I finally got the new alternator for the car. The original one was making noise so I decided to get rid of it. Not sure if sitting with the belt installed for 11 years caused any problems. The pulleys on the car were rusted under the belt. I decided to go with a 3G alternator kit from LMR during there memorial day sale.



I got there complete kit so I installed the added power wire.



I tied the wire to the other alternator harness and ran it across the front of the car.





Now I'm going to get the radiator and fan mounted in the car later today. I also want to get ECC and engine harness installed so I can get the upper intake manifold mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Got the radiator mounted yesterday. The radiator was a perfect fit in the car I will say when C&R says direct bolt in they were right. The radiator has great quality and construction. But I guess with the cost it should.



I decided to go with a Flex-a-lite 185 fan assembly.





Now had if I had gone with the Flex-a-lite radiator I'm sure it would have just mounted right up to the radiator. But I didn't so it took some work to get fan mounted on the radiator. I first had to work on getting the bottom mounts to work. There normally supposed to just hook on the bottom of the radiator but it wasn't working very well so I drilled holes in the brackets to bolt them to the radiator.



I also had some trouble with the upper bracket fitting over the top of the radiator but like usual I was working on it and didn't pictures of what I had done. I still have to make a few adjustments but it fits. The lower radiator hose is going to be my only issue I will have to fix with something like a flexible radiator hose.







I'm going to have to drill some new holes to get the reservoir mounted but its not a big deal. The issue I'm having with the radiator hose is how far the reservoir sits towards the engine not to mention the motor sitting an inch back is causing the factory style hose not to fit right.



Like I mentioned still need to make a few adjustments but nothing major.

I also got the fuel injection harness on the car which was no big deal but its one more thing done on the car. I picked up some grommets this week that I can use to pass the autometer gauge connections through the firewall to the sending units. The gauges come with them but it would require drilling a 1inch hole in the firewall which is huge for maybe 5 small wires.



Yes I'm going to keep the 10 pin connectors for now. I know people have had problems with them but the injector harness is new and I cleaned the EFI harness connections and tightened them so there making really good contact so I'm not to worried about it now. I'm going to work on swapping out the connectors at another time.

The other part of the radiator install I still need to do is wire it all up. I have to figure out where I'm going to mount the fan controller. There used to be a ton of room in the engine bay but now its all starting to go away every time I install something. I'm going to start working on getting the rest of the wiring done in the engine bay so I can get the upper intake mounted and the engine bay finished up.
 

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That is some great looking work. Clean and well thought out. I like it.

The fuse on the driver's panel, presumably from the alternator to the 12v lug shared by the battery on the relay, is that part of the kit you bought? Can you share a good pic of the fuse type without the cover? What do you think of the quality of it?
 

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Discussion Starter #216
That is some great looking work. Clean and well thought out. I like it.

The fuse on the driver's panel, presumably from the alternator to the 12v lug shared by the battery on the relay, is that part of the kit you bought? Can you share a good pic of the fuse type without the cover? What do you think of the quality of it?
Thanks trying to make it look as good as possible.

The fuse is part of the kit I got with the alternator. I don't have a picture of the fuse but I can get one later. The kit comes with a 4 gauge line that supplements the factory alternator line. This is the kit I bought.

https://lmr.com/item/SVE-17046K2-B/mustang-130-amp-alternator-upgrade-sve-86-93-black

I bought it on sale its seems like a bit much but it was $30 off at the time plus you can get it for less if its not powder coated black. If you already have the 130amp alternator you can just buy the wire kit.

https://lmr.com/item/SVE-9902A/Mustang-4-Gauge-Power-Wire-Kit-Premium-W-Noise-Suppression-3
 

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This is going to be one solidly done car. It's kind of funny because I feel like a lot of your choices are similar to ones i'd make, or made already. Very similar builds and I think you're going to have one hell of a nice fox when you're done.

At some point I need to do a better cooling system. The 3 core in mine will work, but yours will absolutely perform better. Great work buddy
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Any particular reason you went with a 3g alt rather than 6g on this?
Since the car isn't going to have A/C, heater, stereo or anything else like power windows I didn't see a need for a 6g. The only auxiliary thing the car is going to need to run is the electric fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #220
This is going to be one solidly done car. It's kind of funny because I feel like a lot of your choices are similar to ones i'd make, or made already. Very similar builds and I think you're going to have one hell of a nice fox when you're done.

At some point I need to do a better cooling system. The 3 core in mine will work, but yours will absolutely perform better. Great work buddy
Thanks man I think its going to be a great car when it's done. I'm chipping away at it if my grommets come today I'm going to try and get all the gauge connections done tonight so I can get the EFI harness in and the intake manifold on the car this week.

The cooling system should work really good. The C&R radiator is really nice and it fit right in perfectly.
 
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