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Discussion Starter #1
I want to start this thread so I can ask questions as I go along with my KB install. My car is a 1990 LX 5.0, 5 speed, and the motor is completely stock with just some 1 5/8" BBK long tubes and typical exhaust. My suspension is completely done with MM coil overs, Cobra IRS, etc.

I have a 2.1L Kenne Bell Flowzilla (90mm inlet) which has the bypass already on it from KB. This is going on a stock E7 headed 5.0, stock cam, with an Explorer lower intake, 90mm Accufab TB (still need to buy), 42# injectors (still need to buy), 255 fuel pump (gss340), and Stinger Pimp speed density MicroSquirt tuning.

This is NOT a max effort build. This is strictly a fun street car. I am not getting different heads or anything so lets not go there.
My questions to start this off is....
Where is the best place to install my ACT sensor? Drill and tap the #5 runner in the lower intake like stock?
Will 1.7 roller rockers help me out any? Maybe the extra lift will help the KB breath a little easier on the exhaust side of things?
I am looking to run 8-10lbs of boost, maybe a tad more if my stock head gaskets and bolts can take it. I don't mind removing the heads to install ARP head studs and 9333 gaskets.

Thanks in advance for any helpful information. I am new to boost but not 5.0's

-Matt
 

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Hmmmmm by no means helpful........ but if you want a fun street car, you and I can trade kenne bell's. I have a baby bell with a bypass, currently spinning 8#'s.

No?

Well worth a shot.
 

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Put the IAT sensor in the intake manifold runner. It will measure actual air temp going into the engine. The KB will make the air a lot hotter under boost and the ECU needs to see this. It would not hurt to install a water/meth kit to help keep air inlet temps in check.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmmmm by no means helpful........ but if you want a fun street car, you and I can trade kenne bell's. I have a baby bell with a bypass, currently spinning 8#'s.

No?

Well worth a shot.
I have a baby 1.5L too, now it has a big brother
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Put the IAT sensor in the intake manifold runner. It will measure actual air temp going into the engine. The KB will make the air a lot hotter under boost and the ECU needs to see this. It would not hurt to install a water/meth kit to help keep air inlet temps in check.
Copy that, thanks! I'll most likely add water/meth after I get things going and get familiar with tuning. Do you have a recommendation for brand?
 

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Copy that, thanks! I'll most likely add water/meth after I get things going and get familiar with tuning. Do you have a recommendation for brand?
I personally don't have much experience with water/meth systems. I jumped straight into a custom air/water inter cooler system. There are others here with much more hands on experience that can point you in the right direction such as 945.0 and Michael Plummer. They have a abundance of knowledge in this aspect.
 

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I have an Alkycontrol meth kit on my 2.1 KB and it works very well. I did a lot of reading when looking for a meth kit and most everything said that was the best. From what I know the name brand kits are similar, but the actual pump is where the quality is most important.
Another quick note to maybe help if you have this issue; the 2.1 KB for the GT40 lower was made to fit the 1993 Cobra GT40 lower. The explorer intake isn't the same, most notibly the mounting holes are spaced slightly different. Ergo, you might have alignment issues with the pulleys. I ran into the same alignment issues on my stock 1993 Cobra lower intake that it was supposed to fit. Long story short, KB has different length spacers that help align it. Just a helpful hint to keep you from the headache I went through on my install.
 

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Deff go meth, esp with a twin screw. I can only imagine it makes more heat than a centri?
I run the Devils Own kit. Cheap initial setup and has quality components and great service. If I were to do it again, I hear the Alchy Control is where its at.
 

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for 8 psi, I don't think meth will be required at all. Todd (posted above) uses it for like 14psi but since you're tuning with megasquirt, you can just keep the timing modest and you wont detonate. That's the best way about it in my book. Either run a good fuel or tune to prevent detonation. Your stock head bolts and gaskets will be fine too as long as you tune well.
 

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I run the AEM stuff, it's well engineered and works great out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have an Alkycontrol meth kit on my 2.1 KB and it works very well. I did a lot of reading when looking for a meth kit and most everything said that was the best. From what I know the name brand kits are similar, but the actual pump is where the quality is most important.
Another quick note to maybe help if you have this issue; the 2.1 KB for the GT40 lower was made to fit the 1993 Cobra GT40 lower. The explorer intake isn't the same, most notibly the mounting holes are spaced slightly different. Ergo, you might have alignment issues with the pulleys. I ran into the same alignment issues on my stock 1993 Cobra lower intake that it was supposed to fit. Long story short, KB has different length spacers that help align it. Just a helpful hint to keep you from the headache I went through on my install.
I've read that the fitment on the Explorer intakes are hit and miss. Thanks for your advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
for 8 psi, I don't think meth will be required at all. Todd (posted above) uses it for like 14psi but since you're tuning with megasquirt, you can just keep the timing modest and you wont detonate. That's the best way about it in my book. Either run a good fuel or tune to prevent detonation. Your stock head bolts and gaskets will be fine too as long as you tune well.
I will pulley for 6-8 psi at first for initial start up and tuning. Once I get the tune dialed in I'll most likely go for 10psi, then work my way around from there depending on results and how far I want to push this thing. I do not have my head in the sand when it comes to boost addiction, I know I'll keep going up and up most likely I'll need to add water/meth. Around where I live the best I can really get is Ethanol free 91 octane.
 

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for 8 psi, I don't think meth will be required at all. Todd (posted above) uses it for like 14psi but since you're tuning with megasquirt, you can just keep the timing modest and you wont detonate. That's the best way about it in my book. Either run a good fuel or tune to prevent detonation. Your stock head bolts and gaskets will be fine too as long as you tune well.
Hector knows his stuff and is correct. I initially was running 7psi and didn't need meth. But trust me, you will want more lol. I did the entire install myself from the fuel pump to injectors and KB. If you have any questions I hopefully can point you in the right direction. I'm a novice at this stuff but I learned quite a bit doing it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hector knows his stuff and is correct. I initially was running 7psi and didn't need meth. But trust me, you will want more lol. I did the entire install myself from the fuel pump to injectors and KB. If you have any questions I hopefully can point you in the right direction. I'm a novice at this stuff but I learned quite a bit doing it myself.
Thank you. I too will be doing all of the install myself for everything as well as the tuning. It's nice to have knowledgeable guys with experience here to help me along throughout the install process. I snapped off a couple oil pan bolts during the process of tear down which is holding up my progress a little. When I got the car it was a one family owned completely stock "survivor" with only 74k miles on it. This engine has never been apart and some of the bolts sheared off as I removed them. I have one bolt left to fix in the block for the oil pan bolt which will need a helicoil/timesert type of repair which I'll get to tonight. After that I'll be able to begin assembly (motor is on an engine stand).

One question regarding inlet/outlet KB connections. Do you guys use RTV gasket maker?
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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If you're talking about the mating surfaces to the billet housing I believe you have to use an anaerobic sealer, not RTV.
 

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Anaerobic sealer is correct......Permatex #51813
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just thought I'd give a little update. Car is almost complete and is back on the ground. I installed the KB unit as one piece which was a PITA to access all the bolts to tighten but it was successful. I'm using a JY explorer lower, untouched, and drilled the #5 runner for the ACT sensor. I have no pulley alignment issues! Very happy about that. I did however have a couple setbacks and I'm waiting on a couple parts to show up in the mail this week. The o-ring for my 90mm Accufab TB was too big so American Muscle is shipping me the correct o-ring. I also had to order a 4"-3.5" silicon coupler to be able to connect my 3.5" AFM power pipe to the 90mm TB. Yet to be installed is my boost gauge, PiMP ECU and wideband. I should be working on start up and idle tuning this weekend. Also, FYI, I ordered a 3" pulley from KB to get me started at 8# of boost.

Car is filthy and needs a bath badly.

-Matt
 

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Nice! Did stinger give you a base map for this? Make 100% sure your timing table isn't for an N/A motor and that it is conservative. Post your tables up in the megasquirt section for tips or opinions.
 

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Nice! Did stinger give you a base map for this? Make 100% sure your timing table isn't for an N/A motor and that it is conservative. Post your tables up in the megasquirt section for tips or opinions.
That's a very good point, thank you I will do that. I believe I only have a NA tune as a starting point.
 

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Exercise caution if you are using the Explorer lower with the KB setup. I seem to recall reading about alignment troubles on TMOSS's website under this exact circumstance.


EDIT: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjM1JK30L3TAhWE0YMKHVmCAnMQFggiMAA&url=http://tmoss.efidynotuning.com/GT40%20Lowers%20and%20Kenne%20Bell%20Blowers.doc&usg=AFQjCNFZJgz_KQ4_3myJEdU2Os3rQQLNIA

From that article....

"you will need to use any GT40 style lower that uses an F2 (GT40) with the part number found on the front water cross over, F3 (93 Cobra) or F4 (SN Cobra) both part numbers found cast into the driver side of the lower intake. Stay away from lowers that have the part number including F8 found cast into the water cross over as those are the Explorer lowers that have the alignment issue."
 
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