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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #1
HVAC blower motor stopped working along with my turn signals the other day. No blown fuses. Not really sure where to start.
 

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with the wiring diagram
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #3
with the wiring diagram
Do you have any high quality PDFs of the wiring diagrams? My Haynes manual is getting really ragged and its always been way too small to read easily. Especially in a dimly lit garage.
 

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bbb industries

or wait for me to scan
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok, so it appears to be intermittent. I've traced it down to 4 dead circuits on the fusebox. Fuse positions 5, 9, 13, and 15 are dead; backprobing them with a DMM yields 0V, fuses are intact.

Fuse #5: Turn lights, backup lights, low fluid module & display module, heated backlite relay
Fuse #9: Heater blower, A/C blower
Fuse #13: Instrument illumination, ISO symbols
Fuse #15: Fog lamps

Looking at some schematics it looks like fuses 5 and 9 are actually powered by the grey/yellow wire from the ignition switch. Backprobing this wire on the fusebox yields no voltage... so would that indicate that the ignition switch could be the problem? I recently replaced the ignition lock cylinder myself and I had to fuss with it in order to get it clocked correctly, maybe I didn't do it right? Everything used to work reliably after the ignition cylinder replacement, but not working well anymore. Sound familiar to anyone?
 

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how are you backprobing the fuses?
 

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5 and 9 are hot in run only

15 is hot only with headlight switch closed

13 is hot only with headlight switch closed

power to ign switch is protected by the fuse link a

if you goofed the switch, you would blow the link
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, I'll have to dig into the ignition switch and check the fuselink. Thanks for replying.

I backprobed by removing the fusebox and literally probing the back of the box where the wires go in. Is it normal to have the hazard flasher mounted on the back of the fusebox, where it's not accessible?
 

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Stop what you are doing, no reason to check ign switch

to check fuses, there is a place to put your probe, on the front of the fuse, all you do is check both sides of the fuse to ground, test light is fastest.

and those fuses must be checked at the correct ign switch position

that is not the signal flasher, that is the hazard

signal is even more difficult, mounted on column
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I checked all the fuses before I pulled the box out. And yes, I checked them with the key off and key on since many of the circuits are ignition switch controlled. I know the signal flasher in question is the hazard, the turn signal unit is dangling behind my dash. I should probably zip-tie that back in or something.

After pulling the box out I noticed that a previous owner had attempted to splice into the brown/orange wire going to the heater/AC. This wire is like 12 gauge or something and the crimp and heatshrink wasn't done very well. Copper was exposed and only half the strands were intact. I cut out the offending splice and repaired that using a proper ratcheting crimper and some adhesive heat shrink.

Happy New Year, btw!
 

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some wiring wasn't done properly on that car?

happy new year,

you swimming today?
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #12
some wiring wasn't done properly on that car?

happy new year,

you swimming today?
I've finally repaired all the "ghetto" in the Ghetto. There has been some bad wiring done to it in the past, wasn't me!

Very wet in Tucson today, but it's nice. Lots of snow down in Ricemound, I hear?
 

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The ignition switch is known for problems , as they seperate .
Since you said this is intermitten , i would pull the covers off the column , and have a look at the switch.
It is a cheap part to replace , and if original , probably needs it
 

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I've finally repaired all the "ghetto" in the Ghetto. There has been some bad wiring done to it in the past, wasn't me!

Very wet in Tucson today, but it's nice. Lots of snow down in Ricemound, I hear?
not really,,,,,,small squall came through last night, turned to ice......

get any more fog?
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #15
So I pulled the column cover off and inspected the ignition switch. It was coming apart near the front and would explain why some of the circuits weren't working... the switch has been coming apart. BWD makes a Taiwanese copper terminal replacement for $17, Motorcraft available locally for about $37. Motorcraft for this one?
 

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it should be covered at ford under a recall

have a ford dealership, do a OASIS report.

its a RECALL item
 
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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #17
it should be covered at ford under a recall

have a ford dealership, do a OASIS report.

its a RECALL item
That's interesting. I did a quick search on the NHTSA website and it won't process my VIN anymore for some reason. I used to be able to lookup TSBs before. You really think it's worth the effort to get Ford to replace it? It's kind of dead in the garage right now, I'd need just the part. Should I pay a visit to the Ford dealer today then?
 

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your choice

I would at least give the dealership your vin to look up.
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Discussion Starter #19
your choice

I would at least give the dealership your vin to look up.
Alright, so I contacted the dealership. There's a TSB out for intermittent instrumentation lighting, turn signals, etc. and the repair action is ignition switch replacement. Unfortunately, at least in the US, it is not marked for RECALL action, it's just a TSB. So no dice on that front.

I did find a new Motorcraft SW2474 for $31 locally and installed it (after borrowing my friend's tamper proof torx socket set) and everything is working again.
So thanks guys, for helping diagnose and resolve this problem! The switch had come apart as ashleyroachclip had described.
 

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call ford, hotline, you got a load of bs

that recall if yours not fixed yet, exists forever. regardless of country.......

anyhoo.....ya got it fixed,,,,,,now fix the rest of the wiring.
 
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