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Discussion Starter #1
8.730 @ 81.63
2.005 60ft.

8.197 @ 87.98 with 75 dry shot
1.975 60ft.

Stock Bottom End
Stock Cam
E7 Heads w/ 1.7 Rockers
Performer RPM1
70mm TB
3in. Inlet Tube
76mm Meter
Stock Airbox w/ KN filter
1 5/8th Equal Length Short Headers
X-Pipe
Chambered Mufflers

10-Way Adjustable Front and Rear
Front Coilovers 150lb. 12in. Springs
Stock Rear Springs, 1/2 coil cut
Tubular Rear Control Arms
Subframe Connectors
Torque Box Reinforcements
8-Point Cage

T5Z
Spec Stage 1 Clutch
Good Clutch Cable
21lb. Iron Flywheel
4.10 Gear
275/60/15 NT555R

245hp and 280 ft.lbs on the motor.

Driven 80 miles to the track, raced, and driven back. Great turnout to my first time at a drigstrip. Very happy with the numbers. Will update as I get faster. Thanks for looking.
 

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Nice times! Get that 60' down and you should easily have a low 8. Get true slicks or a clutch tamer. My best 60' so far is 1.72 with an all stock engine at 3270#
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice times! Get that 60' down and you should easily have a low 8. Get true slicks or a clutch tamer. My best 60' so far is 1.72 with an all stock engine at 3270#
Thank you, next time will be better for sure. What tires did you use when you cut the 1.72? Anything done to the suspension at that time?
 

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Thank you, next time will be better for sure. What tires did you use when you cut the 1.72? Anything done to the suspension at that time?
My car has a tube k member, what I think are 4 cyl springs. Old kyb agx shocks and stuts, no saw bars, solid upper control arms and Lakewood lift arm lowers. Air bag in the right spring. I run 275 50 15 MT drag radials with a clutch tamer to soften the hit, reduce parts breaking, and make it more consistent.

Dump the clutch at 4500 rpm, give or take, let the tamer take over.
 

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This is the goal here, and cracking 7s in the 1/8th on the nitrous is another goal. Any tire recommendations to achieve a 1.6 60ft?
Don't need anything fancy, a Mickey Thompson ET Drag in 26X10 size will do it. Do a burn out in second gear, get it hot, launch at 5000 rpm or more and you are there.

My 1989 LX which I have owned since 1991 would do 8.14-8.17 in the 1/8th all night long with a GT40 intake, 65mm throttle body, 77mm pro M mass air, E cam, underdrive pullies, 24 lb injectors, 255 lph pump and 3.73s. This was 25 years ago.

If you launch on the dry shot you should go 7.60s to 7.70s
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My car has a tube k member, what I think are 4 cyl springs. Old kyb agx shocks and stuts, no saw bars, solid upper control arms and Lakewood lift arm lowers. Air bag in the right spring. I run 275 50 15 MT drag radials with a clutch tamer to soften the hit, reduce parts breaking, and make it more consistent.

Dump the clutch at 4500 rpm, give or take, let the tamer take over.

I looked up the clutch tamer. It looks like it takes the human error element out of the equation. The numbers on their website seem to make enough sense to back their claims. One thing I noticed was they kept making reference to the tamer working well to make drag radials hook. Have you ever used slicks with it?
 

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I looked up the clutch tamer. It looks like it takes the human error element out of the equation. The numbers on their website seem to make enough sense to back their claims. One thing I noticed was they kept making reference to the tamer working well to make drag radials hook. Have you ever used slicks with it?
No, I had DRs and the tamer was cheaper than slicks. No reason it should not work with slicks, email him and ask. He is also on a few forums normally goes by weedburner or something like that.
 

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You really should not need the tamer with slicks as long as your clutch is good. It will probably be faster without it. It should be stuck to the track with a 5000 rpm launch and a 26X10 slick.
 

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Local guy runs one in a Dodge Demon SBM and I think G-force T5 with 30x9 Hoosier slicks-and it flat works. 1.4X 60', he runs 6.40's in that car. Lakewood bell, Ford disk, Mopar flywheel, Mopar pressure plate (diaphragm). Kind of a mess of parts but it works. MOPAR=Miscellaneous Oddball Parts Assembled Ridiculously (and in this case it fits!). Side stepping the clutch at 5000 on slicks resulted in a bog and inconsistent reaction times (and broken part). Clutch tamer helped all of that. Ive considered putting one in my 4 cylinder car and running it in the local stick shift bracket race class. Diaphragm clutch only (rules). I'm sure there's other options but I think for quite a few the clutch tamer or something similar is probably a less expensive option.
 

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@sluggish88, you're doing well...
agree with the others, swap to a slick and you'll be banging on the door of 7's.
no experience with the clutch tamer.

For comparison...

8.235 @ 82.945 (~2400' d/a... forget, could look that up if you want)
1.73 60ft. (best was a 1.69, but typical was 1.71-1.73)

Stock Bottom End
Stock Cam
Stock E7 Heads
Stock HO intake
Stock TB
76mm Meter
Stock Airbox w/ KN filter
1 5/8th long tubes
H-Pipe
Chambered Mufflers

Stock/original suspension, bushings and all.
Subframe Connectors
air bag in the passengers rear
No weight reduction... 3250lbs

Stock T5
Hays clutch (puck style)
Stock Clutch Cable
Stock Flywheel
4.10 Gear
26x10.5 DOTs

232hp and 292 ft.lbs on the motor.

Driven 57 miles to the track, raced, and driven back... this was back in '03.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks like no more race days for me this year until next year. I'll be getting some slicks over the winter and doing some other small upgrades to easily dip into the 7's (1/8th mile) with a stock block and my trusty E7s. Still on the fence about the clutch tamer. Definitely not denying that it works, as it's a device that has clearly worked for others, but time will tell if its a piece that will fall in line with my build. Thanks all for the suggestions. Other close to stock combos appreciated for comparisons.
 

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@sluggish88, you're doing well...
agree with the others, swap to a slick and you'll be banging on the door of 7's.
no experience with the clutch tamer.

For comparison...

8.235 @ 82.945 (~2400' d/a... forget, could look that up if you want)
1.73 60ft. (best was a 1.69, but typical was 1.71-1.73)

Stock Bottom End
Stock Cam
Stock E7 Heads
Stock HO intake
Stock TB
76mm Meter
Stock Airbox w/ KN filter
1 5/8th long tubes
H-Pipe
Chambered Mufflers

Stock/original suspension, bushings and all.
Subframe Connectors
air bag in the passengers rear
No weight reduction... 3250lbs

Stock T5
Hays clutch (puck style)
Stock Clutch Cable
Stock Flywheel
4.10 Gear
26x10.5 DOTs

232hp and 292 ft.lbs on the motor.

Driven 57 miles to the track, raced, and driven back... this was back in '03.
Thanks for the info! 232hp to the tires? That higher than I would have expected. Is that with the stock tune?
 

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Thanks for the info! 232hp to the tires? That higher than I would have expected. Is that with the stock tune?
Yes, stock tune...
Spent some time on the dyno optimizing/verifying... but yes, stock A9L... no chip.
and looking at the old dyno sheet it says 234/292... not the 2hp is a factor, but that was a test of the old memory I guess.
 

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@;10 hp from cleaning the maf? Wow! Can you go into some detail on the "optimizing/verifying"
 

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Well, I was not the brains behind that...
We played with timing (15* was best for my car on AZ gas) and fuel pressure (turned out stock pressure was best).
Did a lot of monkeying with TPS... don't recall but I think we ended up at 960... but I believe that was secondary... think the fooling around was more about how it was acting as the throttle was open/opening... ??
While doing so, we we able to determine the TFI and coil were not performing well... so, new FoMoCo ones were swapped.
Just basic "tune-up" stuff.
 
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