My HP build (*56k warning - will get picture intensive) - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 23 Old 01-03-2008, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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My HP build (*56k warning - will get picture intensive)

Well I figured I would make a post here to document my build as I do more and more to it. I just recently purchased my first turbo "kit", its a used HP hotside and coldside kit that I'll be peicing together the rest of as it goes along. I hope to have everything done by April at the latest. Its going on a 1989 Mustang GT







Here's the rundown of parts so far:

HP 1 3/4" primary manifolds
HP 3" Crossover with slipjoint
HP 3" coldside
HP 3.5" Core IC
HP 3.5" downpipe
TiAL 50mm BOV
TiAL 44mm Wastegate
Walboro GSS340 Fuel Pump
Spec Stage II clutch

I plan on getting some VHT "Flameproof" high temp paint and painting the entire hotside, then using some DEI exhaust wrap and silicone coating on the entire hotside as well to help protect everything.

I'm still undecided on the turbocharger itself, but I've narrowed it down to the Master Power T70, Precision PT6776, or Turbonetics 62-1. I'm looking for around 400-450whp right now and full boost by 3500rpm.

I still need to buy injectors, a MAF, colder plugs, new wires, plug wire protector's, turbo blanket, turbo, oil lines, electric fan, boost guage and pod, and whatever I need to get it tuned (will be tuned by my friend Kevin @ PAS in Richmond, VA).

Here's a couple of pictures of the car that its going on:





I just copied my thread from tm.com over to here so the guys who dont go on there can see it. I'm going to document the stages of the build/install as they happen

Thanks to rob for the killer deal on the kit!

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post #2 of 23 Old 01-03-2008, 10:33 PM
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Good luck! I've had my share of man hours working on my kit and know it pretty much outside and inside. Check out my ongoing thread (if you haven't already) and PM if you have any ?'s

https://corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=838784


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post #3 of 23 Old 01-03-2008, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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I've had your thread subscribed for a while I actually read the entire thing front to back a few days ago haha.

I want to get this thing out on track (VIR - open track) once I get it done, so I'll be bugging you about what you've done to ensure that it stays as reliable as possible for that.
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post #4 of 23 Old 01-04-2008, 12:49 PM
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cool keep the updates coming.
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post #5 of 23 Old 01-04-2008, 01:21 PM
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thats a clean fox... loving the BBK's!!!

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post #6 of 23 Old 01-04-2008, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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thats a clean fox... loving the BBK's!!!
BBS
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post #7 of 23 Old 01-04-2008, 02:36 PM
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Turbos and Auto X. Does that work well together?

Last edited by frankstang; 01-04-2008 at 02:39 PM.
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post #8 of 23 Old 01-04-2008, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Turbos and Auto X. Does that work well together?
Sure it does.


I'm not sure if its going to work so well on a mustang, but there are a ton of turbo autox cars out there.




BTW, this project has now been put on a little bit of a hold My dd/beater 92 escort that I bought a year ago for $600 has just kicked the bucket I didnt spend a dime of maintenance on it though, so i didnt lose out too bad, especially when all I used was the profit from selling my camera to buy it
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post #9 of 23 Old 01-08-2008, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Time for an update, first batch of ordered parts came in



DEI Exhaust Wrap Kit
DEI Silicone Coating (black)
DEI Spark Plug Wire protectors (8" for maximum protection)
Autometer 2 1/16" Ultralite Boost Guage (30hg - 20psi)
Autometer 2 1/16" single guage pod
VHT Flameproof 1200* sustained High Temp paint (white)

I didnt get the package until 5:40pm tonight because my house is about 2 minutes away from the FexEx shipping HQ, so I want able to really get much done. I started sanding down a little of the insides of the manifolds and crossover as they were previously jet-hot coated and some of the coating has started to flake off and looks like rust or something inside. I couldnt get too far in the pipes as I couldnt find anything to use but some sandpaper and my fingers, but it cleaned up alot of the bad stuff that I saw just the little bit that I got in. I'll hopefully have the manifolds, crossover, and downpipe painted and wrapped by next week.

And this project will be a loooooong time coming. I've decided to pay off the personal loan I took out to get out of my last car (05 SRT4) and i'm going to buy a 04-05 STi once that is done. I'm now shooting to have this finished by 2009.

Last edited by WhiteSSP; 01-08-2008 at 10:27 PM.
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post #10 of 23 Old 01-09-2008, 12:30 AM
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cant speak for the VHT but I decided to put some 1500 deg. spray on my old long tubes (no turbo) to improve teh underhood appearance, and it burned off on the first tank of gas, and smelled horrible. Just a heads up

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post #11 of 23 Old 01-09-2008, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Well a couple of the guys on turbomustangs.com have used it with good results. It is going on underneath the wrap, and then a silicone coating is going over that to make sure all the moisture/oil/whatever else stays off of the manifolds/downpipe.

Either way, it was 9 bucks, so its not like I lost out on alot.
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post #12 of 23 Old 01-09-2008, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankstang View Post
Turbos and Auto X. Does that work well together?
Eh, it can, but you have to really learn how to drive the car. Lower boost levels work well and you have to learn how to drive accomodating the turbo lag.

I sprayed the high temp coating on my headers, wrapped them, then sprayed the coating on the headers. You will probably need more wrap and more spray than what you have there. Make sure to wear latex gloves and use a spray bottle to moisten the wrap prior to wrapping. It makes the wrap easier to stretch and form, and helps keep the airbone fibers down to a minimum. If I did it again, I might wear a dust mask because they get in your nose and man does it itch. Make sure to give the wrap at least 24-48 hrs to fully dry before you spray the coating. A hairdryer helps its along.

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post #13 of 23 Old 01-10-2008, 12:02 AM
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Looking good. That VHT high temp paint aint going to last. If you have the means, you might want to sent your stuff off to get coated again.

Also, you might know this but if not, the spark plug wire covers. They are easiest to put on by, sliding off the 90* boot(distr side) and sliding the loose end of the cover toward the spark plug end of wires, leaving the smaller 'o-ringed' side up, then sliding the 90*boot back on. I got pics if you'd like.

I see a lot of people putting them on upside down is the reason I said something.

Those are great looking wheels! A good friend of mine has those wheels on his 93 cobra also.

Last edited by fred50stang; 01-10-2008 at 12:04 AM.
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post #14 of 23 Old 01-10-2008, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Looking good. That VHT high temp paint aint going to last. If you have the means, you might want to sent your stuff off to get coated again.

Also, you might know this but if not, the spark plug wire covers. They are easiest to put on by, sliding off the 90* boot(distr side) and sliding the loose end of the cover toward the spark plug end of wires, leaving the smaller 'o-ringed' side up, then sliding the 90*boot back on. I got pics if you'd like.

I see a lot of people putting them on upside down is the reason I said something.

Those are great looking wheels! A good friend of mine has those wheels on his 93 cobra also.
Thanks for the tip and the compliment. As far as the VHT stuff goes, I'm not really worried if it lasts or not. If it doesnt, it'll be underneath the wrap, so its not like I'm going to see it lol
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post #15 of 23 Old 01-20-2008, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Well, since I had the day off and it was 18* outside, I decided i would go ahead and try to clean up the hotside piping. Started the day off by taking some sandpaper to the manifolds and crossover to scuff them up some before painting. Also removed the TiAL 44mm Wastegate before painting it as well.





Once again I'm using VHT's Flameproof paint (1200* sustained temps) on all of the hot parts all the way back to the y pipe.



In order to get the best coverage and ease of painting, I decided to hang everything from the garage door tracks with some string . It definitely made everything easy to get to to paint it as I could rotate the pipes as needed.







Once the manifolds and crossover had dried sufficiently, I took those down and hung up the downpipe and painted that as well.



As the downpipe was drying, I began to wrap the manifolds/crossover with DEI's Exaust Wrap. I was using the 2"x50 fot rolls that came in the kit they sell (great deal for anyone who wants to do this BTW, $80 for 2 rolls of 2"x50, 1 can of silicone coating, and alot of metal ties). I started by soaking the wrap in some hot water (only hot because of how cold it is) for a few minutes to get it nice and pliable and to also keep the fiberglass on the wrap and out of the air as much as possible.



Once it was wet enough, I started wrapping. I made sure to overlap a good amount as I wanted to minimize places where heat could get out and I wanted to make sure it was nice and tight.







And here is the finished product for today. I'm not going to be keeping the black zipties on there, they're just on until everything dries. I have a ton of zip ties, but not alot of the metal ties, so I wanted to use those temporarily so I get everything straight before using the metal ones.



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post #16 of 23 Old 01-20-2008, 08:53 PM
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Awesome work!



You may find that if you wrap them this close to the v-band flange, it may interfere with the way the clamp fits. I would test fit a clamp just to be safe.

Also, I found that with installing my headers a couple times already, you need every bit of room when you are tightening up those header bolts. Since you wrapped the primaries all they way up to the flange, it might make the process of installing the header bolts a lot harder. It shouldn't be impossible, just a bigger pain in the a-hole.

Let them dry and then spray those bad boys!!

Matt
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post #17 of 23 Old 01-20-2008, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome work!



You may find that if you wrap them this close to the v-band flange, it may interfere with the way the clamp fits. I would test fit a clamp just to be safe.

Also, I found that with installing my headers a couple times already, you need every bit of room when you are tightening up those header bolts. Since you wrapped the primaries all they way up to the flange, it might make the process of installing the header bolts a lot harder. It shouldn't be impossible, just a bigger pain in the a-hole.

Let them dry and then spray those bad boys!!

You know, I thought about that when I was doing it. I meant to test fit the V-Band clamp on it to see if I had room, but I got lazy and forgot. They're still wrapped up in zip-ties now waiting for the wrap to dry so I can still move the ends a little bit as they're not permanently attached just yet. I'll see if I can adjust it a little bit. Thanks!
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post #18 of 23 Old 01-20-2008, 10:19 PM
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Thats a really good idea with the zip ties. I usually do all my work on my car at work because I can talk my boss into tying up an extra rack in the back shop for extended amounts of time. That usually means I have limited time, I have to rush myself, and I'm working from 3-9pm when I started work at 6am. I really don't have the patience or time to take my time like you can, so your install should turn out pretty awesome. If I had the time, I would have done it all with zip-ties and gone back and put the metal ties on it after.

Matt
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post #19 of 23 Old 01-21-2008, 01:38 AM
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Do you have any pics of the metal ties? The reason I ask is because i used metal ties and somehow the loosened up/ moved where the wrap wasn't as thick, and after that I used clamps.

Not a bad wrap job.

To dry it quiker you might want to put out in the sun. or on a roof, it gets real hot up there.

good luck with the rest of the build. And those are nice rims!
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post #20 of 23 Old 01-21-2008, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Tiny little update today. Picked up the Spec Stage 2+ clutch and Walboro GSS340 255lph fuel pump. The clutch is rated to hold 620ft/lb of torque, and the fuel pump should push enough fuel for my needs until I get ready to upgrade the entire fuel system. I picked up both for $100 total from a good friend of mine. They both have about 400mi on them.



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post #21 of 23 Old 01-21-2008, 11:08 PM
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what size injector are you running? The clutch should hold up okay for a while, but I hear they are known for <15k mile life and lots of chatter. The 2+ is supposed have the chatter fixed compared to the older Stage 2. The pump should also be enough if you have the 60mm Stage 1 turbo and 42lb injectors. If down the road you want to upgrade the turbo or go to a larger injector, you will have to do a whole fuel system to support those upgrades.

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post #22 of 23 Old 01-21-2008, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to go with a set of 60# injectors so I wont have to upgrade later. I'm only looking for 400-450whp, which I dont need 60# injectors for, but I'd rather have too much than not enough.

Right now I actually still dont have the turbo, but I'm going to go with a sligtly larger turbo.
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post #23 of 23 Old 01-22-2008, 10:45 PM
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How big? 400-450 doesn't even need a turbo. A procharger would get you there no problem. Be prepared, because you are about to dive into something you may not be prepared for. I know that when I bought my HP kit, I had no idea I would wind up making this much power, and it costing me this much money.

If all you want is 400ish #'s, stick with the Stage 1 60mm turbo or something similar. 60s are overkill for 400ish numbers also.

What you gotta start to worry about when you go turbo is your trans, rearend, clutch.. I left my stock rear in my car and it was the first thing to break. You also need to cover your bases with subframe connectors and torque box reinforcements at the least.

Matt
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