well i am putting my built 9:1 306 with aluminum heads and sage 2 cam and edelbrock intake. (just listing major supporting mods) into my 1998 cobra
i am installing 2 garret gt28 turbos' (internally gated) and i have a couple questions before mocking it up
1. if the kit was made for a fox will the only think i need to change is the inlet pipe from ic to tb?
Does it hook into the stock H-Pipe location? If so, it was my understanding that the sn95 and fox setups were different due to header differences. There is no guarantee that the rest of the cold side will fitâ€¦and unless you have no qualms doing some fab work, I would ask the question from whoever made the kit personally.
2. where do i tap for oil feed and return lines?
You'll need to come off of the oil pressure log on the front-drivers side of the engine. You can either add some inline T fittings or tap the log itself. I've done both, and tapping the log looks both cleanerâ€¦and has far less issues sealing.
As far as the returns go, you'll need to either drill the pan in the appropriate locations and weld a bung inâ€¦or go with the punch/tap method used by Vortec. Both work greatâ€¦however, the drill and tap method is a bit more tedious as you need to ensure no shavings enter the oil pan. As far as the locations go, I don't have them at my disposal, but some searching either here over turbomustangs.com for should yield excellent results.
3. i know how to run a boost controller from nipple in charge piping on the outlet of the turbo to the wastegate, but how do i run a MBC with the twins to have the same boost on each turbo.
For the boost controller you'll run a vacuum line from either the upper intake or vacuum tree on the firewall to the MBCâ€¦.after which you will split it off and run it to both wastegate actuators.
4. Where do i run a boost gauge from
Hook it up to the vacuum tree on the firewall.
5. what kind of boost should i run and power to expect. i will have n20 hooked up into the charge pipe. small shot to just cool the charge.
What h/c/i are you running? If you are running the stock longblock, you should be able to go up to 12psi as long as your tune is on. I think your underestimating the effectiveness of a turbo setup thoughâ€¦as you will not need the n20 to cool jack. You should have no issues running block splitting h/p levels with 12psi and a safe tune. The n20 is simply not necessaryâ€¦and really not worth the extra expense/risk.
Now, if you have an aftermarket h/c/I setupâ€¦you'll be able to run less boost and achieve the same h/p levels. From what I've seen, ~8psi should get you there with a good h/c/I setup.
6. i have 42lb injectors with pro m mass air meter, and should i just mount that in my intake pipe to compensate for injectors and is that all i really need on a tune to drive it and boost. not necessarily perform at 100% capablity or acess all of its power. but can it run be drove hard how that is.
Well, yesâ€¦and no really. It seems that the sn95 computer setups are a bit more dangerous to simply leave it all to the sensor itself. What you'll typically see for us foxbody guys who choose to go the cheap route isâ€¦well run the mass air calibrated to the injectors, set the base timing to 18*-20* and leave the spout out. This locks the timing and ensures that the computer canâ€™t compensate. For WOT performance it's really not a bad way to go, and you wont be leaving to awful much on the table. It will however hurt daily drivability somewhat. This can be seen on cold starts and low load acceleration where it may feel a bit doggy.
7. where do i tap for coolant feed/return
A good spot seems to be the heater rail that's connected to the lower intake.
i really appreciate it and i plan to add and remove questions as answered and if some other things come up
i really appreciate it
Before you get to far into this, I highly suggest doing some searching and looking at what others have done over on turbomustans.com. Many over there have documented their builds and have all the info and more.