stock bottom twin turbo 4.6 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-12-2007, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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stock bottom twin turbo 4.6

I am looking at buying a 2000 mustang with a stock 2V 4.6 that has a twin turbo setup on it. The guy is claiming it runs high 11 second 1/4 mile times with only 10 pounds of boost (says this is all the stock motor will handle). Its got 3.55 gears and he was running drag radials on it-- with a stock 5 speed. Ive never had a turbo car before but this seems too fast to be true. When I asked him for proof of the 11 second runs he said he didnt have any-- hmmm. Before I drive the 700 miles to go look at this car can anyone out there tell me if this guy is full of it or if turbo cars really run this fast? Any input would help before I waste my time and money----


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post #2 of 15 Old 09-12-2007, 10:08 PM
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Take this with a grain of salt, but it would probably take more than 10lbs of boost for a GT to run 11 sec 1/4 mile times.


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post #3 of 15 Old 09-13-2007, 01:50 AM
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10lbs on a stock 2V would make in the high 300's rwhp
as long as he had decent rubber on there and done some chassis mods like C/L's
and such

then yeah that power is good to break into the 11's
not 11.00, but hey 11.99 is "running 11's", it should run low 12's at worst.

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post #4 of 15 Old 09-13-2007, 07:08 AM
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Turbo cars ARE fast. I believe that it could run 11s. High 11s are 11s.
More importantly is the bottom end on that car. That is a negative that it is stock. While my own 97 has been running 10 psi from centrifugal blower on its original 310K motor for more than 200K a turbo puts more punch under the curve. So if you get this car at least have in the back of your mind you may want to upgrade the bottom end to cobra crank, forged pistons and forged rods.
You should do a leak down test on the car for sure.
With a turbo setup he should have had it dyno tuned. Ask to see the data.
Make sure it has proper fuel management.
Is the price super cheap?
Good luck.
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-13-2007, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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he did have it dyno tuned- the whole twin turbo setup is supposed to be from young performance and installed professionally- and the car does have coilovers front and rear along with some other suspension mods he had listed. The times he quoted me were very high 11's soo maybee?? I'll probably run down there then and take a look at it.
The price is right I think-- has a damage disclosure on the title (cars all fixed up now) and he is looking to get $9000 out of it. Thanks for your input- i'll give him the benefit of the doubt till I get down there then.

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post #6 of 15 Old 09-13-2007, 07:53 PM
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uh..10lbs from a turbo should be over 380 rwhp on a stock 99-04 GT
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-14-2007, 07:22 AM
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You have to figure to buy a full twin turbo kit for that car is going to be around 5-6 grand. Then the install and tuning. You need a tubular front cross member and coilovers on those setups. Sounds like it is certainly worth consideration. What kind of turbos are on there? Is the piping stainless, coated etc? What type of headers are on there-are they log style (not the greatest) or tubular.
In any event, take some pictures if you go all the way out there-and post em up.
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-17-2007, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well I got the car! Got it home late last night. I dont have pics to post yet but will try and get some taken. It pulls hard compared to my five oh- I am actually pretty impressed with it. The guy claims it has turbonetics 57 turbos on it? I didnt look close to see if theres any markings on them yet. There polised with a blue center section.
I do have one thing on the car thats really bugging me though---- ive never had a turbo before so I dont know if this is normal but when you hit the gas there is a loud ticking (tinging) noise. It doesnt sound like anything internal in the motor- just a steady very loud high pitched tick--- like metal on metal. Is this normal? Is it the blow off valve or something? When im cruising, letting off the gas-- or on the gas lightly theres no noise- and the car runs great--- so im guessing it cant be too serious-
Ryan

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post #9 of 15 Old 09-17-2007, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studlyisme View Post
but when you hit the gas there is a loud ticking (tinging) noise. It doesnt sound like anything internal in the motor- just a steady very loud high pitched tick--- like metal on metal. Is this normal? Ryan
Thats not good...

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post #10 of 15 Old 09-18-2007, 07:27 AM
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Does the sound change with rpm? Some easy things could be a plug wire off and arcing or exhaust leak. Other posibilities could be pinging when you are on it. Avoid this at all costs. You should get the car dynoed with a wideband oxygen sensor to make sure the tune is safe.
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-19-2007, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Does the sound change with rpm? Some easy things could be a plug wire off and arcing or exhaust leak. Other posibilities could be pinging when you are on it. Avoid this at all costs. You should get the car dynoed with a wideband oxygen sensor to make sure the tune is safe.
Erich
Thanks Erich-- we checked it all over yesterday night (it really had me worried) and it is just the exhaust (whew)-- my buddy must have caught the one side on the trailer when loading it- shoved the one muffler up against the body and caused that pipe to leak farther ahead. Going to try and have the exhaust shop fix it up today. The tune on the car seems good when its warm-- but is awful untill then. The car will start up and then die when cold- then starts right back up and you can drive it-- but it chugs untill warmed up. Once its warm though everything seems kosher.

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post #12 of 15 Old 09-19-2007, 09:59 AM
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I would think that 10lbs would be plenty to run 11s if launched right. I made 333rwhp in a single turbo 5.0 (stock motor 7lbs) and ran [email protected] on 275 street tires

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post #13 of 15 Old 09-19-2007, 03:35 PM
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Whew. That is good. It would really be nasty to have some horrible internal engine fault after you just buy something.
When I put my car back together I had a loose plug wire and the arcing made a loud ticking. I was really afraid of some internal damage but it was so simple!
With the starting and stalling, you could be looking at a non-turbo issue and a simple one. The idle air control valve on mod motors stick sometimes. When that happens, the car starts right up but dies immediately. You can test it by when it starts, just keep your foot lightly on the throttle to keep the blade cracked open. If it idles that way, you just need to remove and clean the IAC valve. It is usually carboned up.
Erich

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post #14 of 15 Old 09-21-2007, 04:04 AM
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I have an 03 motor with a "homebrew" twin turbo kit and I put down 380rwhp on 9/9.5 lbs of boost on a stock motor through an auto with a really safe tune. Have not run the track yet.

I still think its lame that the v6 stang motors I have grown to love can handle horsepower similar to the 2v....
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-21-2007, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdogcq View Post
I have an 03 motor with a "homebrew" twin turbo kit and I put down 380rwhp on 9/9.5 lbs of boost on a stock motor through an auto with a really safe tune. Have not run the track yet.

I still think its lame that the v6 stang motors I have grown to love can handle horsepower similar to the 2v....
Can you post up pics of your homebrew kit? Much fewer DIY kits on the mod motors but they are cool for sure. Having a DIY kit on a 5.0 and a centrifugal blower on a 4.6 makes me always want to see what others do on 4.6s.

Yeah the 6 cyl cars can be made fast with turbos. The 6 cyl block is stronger than a 5.0. Not sure about head clamping on them tho.
Erich

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