sds vs mega squirt - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 34 Old 04-24-2007, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Talking sds vs mega squirt

Has anyone ever heard of them/ and used, also how does it compare to the mega squirt setups??


http://www.wmsracing.com/wmsweb/sds.htm

And if you go into the engine management forums there is a huge mega squirt post

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post #2 of 34 Old 04-24-2007, 09:46 AM
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Has anyone ever heard of them/ and used, also how does it compare to the mega squirt setups??


http://www.wmsracing.com/wmsweb/sds.htm

And if you go into the engine management forums there is a huge mega squirt post
Did you look at the price!?! Those are in a whole different ballpark as far as price range goes…and the megasquirt is still capable of performing far more tasks (i.e. electric boost control, n02 control, 2-step, etc.). Although the Megasquirt still is nearly as "plug and play" as the SDS, the new adaptor boards certainly help. Keep in mind too the megasquirt is far more hands on…and most highly recommend assembly yourself as it helps with future add on mod's. There is also no customer support so to speak…but the forums (www.msefi.com) have a great deal of information. One last tidbit of info…I built and installed my complete megasquirt system (MSI, pcb3.0) for $318.50. Add on the cost of a typical wideband and your up to a hair over $500 for the complete setup. That's just a hair less than the $1095 price of the SDS system (which does not include a wideband).


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post #3 of 34 Old 04-24-2007, 12:12 PM
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My chip and dyno tune was $580. Did not prevent blowing a headgasket and I have not wideband data to check out what happened at the track. Now I need to get another tune to boot.
Compare that to the megasquirt price lol.
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post #4 of 34 Old 04-24-2007, 12:41 PM
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My chip and dyno tune was $580. Did not prevent blowing a headgasket and I have not wideband data to check out what happened at the track. Now I need to get another tune to boot.
Compare that to the megasquirt price lol.
Erich
And subtract the amount of the pro-m univer maf I sold when I went to megasquirt ($250) and you'll see my total costs were actually quite reasonable.
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post #5 of 34 Old 04-24-2007, 10:48 PM
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I have the SDS on my turbo LIghtning and am pretty happy with the ease of tuning and the performance

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post #6 of 34 Old 04-25-2007, 02:48 AM
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depends on what you want and what you're willing to pay. the SDS system is easy, megasquirt not so much. megasquirt is cheap, SDS not so much.

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post #7 of 34 Old 04-25-2007, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Red face

Wow guys thanks for the responses, I found a used sds but i had never heard of them, i really want the mega squirt but i am afraid of starting a project and not being able to finish it, Like previously stated no customer service, and I am trying to understand how it all works, I have the mega tune 2.5 and have been playing with it but i am not sure that i am ready to write the base program and everything. How long did it take to assemble and get mega squirt running??
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post #8 of 34 Old 04-25-2007, 11:10 AM
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Wow guys thanks for the responses, I found a used sds but i had never heard of them, i really want the mega squirt but i am afraid of starting a project and not being able to finish it, Like previously stated no customer service, and I am trying to understand how it all works, I have the mega tune 2.5 and have been playing with it but i am not sure that i am ready to write the base program and everything. How long did it take to assemble and get mega squirt running??
Just a word of caution, I believe some of the older SDS systems do not have dataloging capability. In my eyes, this is a "must have" for any aftermarket tuning system.

Make no mistake, the megasquirt has a steep learning curve. If you read all the information available on it though things are really not that complex. They now sell an adaptor board for the megasquirt which allows the entire system to be "plug and play" so to speak for 87-93 mustangs. Without it you'll have to cut and splice the stock wiring harness into a new one which can take a few hours.

If you have done your research and build/install everything properly…then it's not unheard of to have it up and running on a rough tune in a day. If you plan on building the megasquirt yourself, give yourself the first day to just solder it altogether and bench test it with the stim and the megasquirt software.
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post #9 of 34 Old 04-25-2007, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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wow that sounds inviting on the megasquirt, is it easier to just cut the connector off and start there? oh yea the steep learning curve is what i am worried about, i am currently reading the megamanuel and the basic tuning papers as of a week ago,
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post #10 of 34 Old 04-25-2007, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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oh yea i was looking at the 2 because i was told that the 1 board was no good for #42 injectors?

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post #11 of 34 Old 04-25-2007, 08:20 PM
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oh yea i was looking at the 2 because i was told that the 1 board was no good for #42 injectors?
I think your reffering to the board version, not the megasquirt version. The Pcbv2.2 board requires an additional flyback board to run low impedance injectors while the Pcbv3.0 board does not (built in). They both however have no issues running high impedance injectors...which the 42lb'rs should be.
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post #12 of 34 Old 04-26-2007, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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.... confusing flyback board? i have high impendence simens 60# injectors and it is confusing learning somthing new. what did you do for the install? cut the ford harness of make your own adaptor harness?
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post #13 of 34 Old 04-26-2007, 01:29 PM
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as a megasquirt user i highly reccomend the product if you require a great deal of tunability and have time to spend learning about all components (assuming you're have an intermediate knowledge of efi). i thought i knew enough after working as an engine r&d engineer for a major american oem for years, but found automotive efi develops almost on a daily basis.

if this is your daily driver i would consider a more robust system that is more "plug and play" than the ms, but if it's your toy the doi it yourself method is very rewarding.
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post #14 of 34 Old 04-26-2007, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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lol its a toy that hasn't been driven farther then 5miles from the house in a year now, i am a mechanic and i have a general knowledge of efi , but you are correct in saying until you do a standalone setup you don't know howw much there is out there.
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post #15 of 34 Old 04-26-2007, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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so whats a flyback board? (up 2 posts)
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post #16 of 34 Old 04-26-2007, 06:00 PM
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so whats a flyback board? (up 2 posts)
if you get a version 3 megasquirt (what they currently sell) you don't need a flyback board at all as it is intergrated into the new setup... having said that you shouldn't need one for your injectors anyway.
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post #17 of 34 Old 04-26-2007, 06:06 PM
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oh yeah... if you haven't had a look (which you probably have) go through the megasquirt web site. it'll tell you everything (and more) you will ever want to know about fuel injection.

www . megasquirt . info

(i'm new so this forum wont let me post a real url )
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post #18 of 34 Old 04-26-2007, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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who is for putting their own mega squirt together and whos for buying one assembeled?? we can do a poll
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post #19 of 34 Old 04-27-2007, 12:10 PM
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who is for putting their own mega squirt together and whos for buying one assembeled?? we can do a poll

i'm a huge advocate for assembling yourself. makes troubleshooting later on much easier if you know all the circuits.
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post #20 of 34 Old 04-27-2007, 12:44 PM
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i'm a huge advocate for assembling yourself. makes troubleshooting later on much easier if you know all the circuits.
Agreed 100%

It also makes the small add on circuits a breeze!
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post #21 of 34 Old 04-27-2007, 03:13 PM
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.... confusing flyback board? i have high impendence simens 60# injectors and it is confusing learning somthing new. what did you do for the install? cut the ford harness of make your own adaptor harness?
You wouldn't need a flyback board if you're running high Z injectors. Its specifically for running low Z injectors as not to burn out the injector driver circuit on MS 2.2 circuit boards. As mentioned a MS 3.0 circuit board won't need a flyback.

You can buy a Harness adapter for the MS to EEC.
http://megaefi.com/
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post #22 of 34 Old 04-27-2007, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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how do you go about the install ? did you cut the harness and rewire everything or make an adapter?

oh yea 2 to 0 so far maybe i will build my own

Last edited by smurfmobile8586; 04-27-2007 at 07:15 PM.
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post #23 of 34 Old 04-27-2007, 10:27 PM
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how do you go about the install ? did you cut the harness and rewire everything or make an adapter?

oh yea 2 to 0 so far maybe i will build my own
Seeing as my engine harness was not in the best condition already...I just hacked the pigtails off all the components (injectors, IAC, ACT, CTS, etc.) and wired them into the pre-made harness. All it really took was a couple of hours and a el-cheapo solder gun from radio shack.

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post #24 of 34 Old 04-28-2007, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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my harness is in good shape, so i will just go to the jy and rob one from a speed density car :< :< :< that really looks like cutters here we go head first
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post #25 of 34 Old 04-28-2007, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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:<
seriously going to get started here about next weekish
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post #26 of 34 Old 04-28-2007, 11:33 AM
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as far as harness goes you really don't need much. just grab a bunch of injector pigtails, plug for tps, and any other little plugs you may need. it is pretty straight forward to make one from scratch and quite clean once you get rid of all the extra junk that a factory one has.
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post #27 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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thats true i think that i will try to make the harness, how do i get the oem gauges to work without using the adapter board? :<
do you have a finished picture?
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post #28 of 34 Old 04-30-2007, 06:35 AM
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thats true i think that i will try to make the harness, how do i get the oem gauges to work without using the adapter board? :<
do you have a finished picture?
As long as you have an 87-93 stang you'll be a-ok with the gauges. Although some of them are tied up in the engine wiring harness, none go through the stock computer. You just have to trace them from the source and seperate and or cut/splice them from the harness.

I myself never made any pics...however you really can't tell currently that I have a self made harness. Everything really gets tucked out of the way.
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post #29 of 34 Old 05-01-2007, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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my car is a 86 with a 88 harness so i think that i am good, the pics i was wanting to see was of the engine bay as it is now
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post #30 of 34 Old 05-01-2007, 02:34 PM
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my car is a 86 with a 88 harness so i think that i am good, the pics i was wanting to see was of the engine bay as it is now
Here is the best I've got.
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post #31 of 34 Old 05-03-2007, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
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wow you still have egr i was wondering is your iac motor plugged in ? and is that headder wrap on the intake tube?
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post #32 of 34 Old 05-03-2007, 08:35 AM
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wow you still have egr i was wondering is your iac motor plugged in ? and is that headder wrap on the intake tube?
Lol…the egr plate is still there…but it does nothing. The IAC is unplugged as I had an issue which would keep it open. I didn’t really have the time to troubleshoot (it originally worked great) so I just unplugged it until I could get my tune down.

On the intake tube I have some high temp reflective tape. It's good for things of that nature that are exposed to radiant heat and works great (I ran out which is why it's not all covered). It is attached by a tape backing…which again only makes it useful for lower temp items.
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post #33 of 34 Old 05-08-2007, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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how does it run without the iac plugged in? i have tried it before and haven't had any luck
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post #34 of 34 Old 05-09-2007, 10:11 AM
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how does it run without the iac plugged in? i have tried it before and haven't had any luck
I have to set the idle to ~900rpm and give it a tad bit of gas for 30 seconds of warmup. The first 5-10 minutes or so the idle will be right around 800-850rpm. After fully warmed is when it goes up to 900 rpm. It's really not that bad, but it is something that I will eventually address. Ideally I'll set the idle down to ~ 800 rpm when fully warmed up.
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