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post #1 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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almost scared to try???

i dont know how many of the guys on here are on turbostangs also, but my question is i currently have 4.10 gears now with the powerglide on my combo, everything i have ever read shows gains when changing the gears to a 3.55 or 3.27 rear end, my combo is working soo well right now i dont see how i could pick up, i feel that i should be pulling more mph in the 1/8th then what it currently is, i know the easy answer is to change the gear and see what happens, but thats $150.00 for the gear, then $150.00 for labor. i know it cost to race but i would like to have some added asureance that it will be worth it or not?

combo is
306sbf stock crank, rods and bolts, .030 over speedpro pistons
x cam
csu 750 blow thru carb
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victor jr heads
t76 turbonetics .96 ar q trim

best et 6.06
best mph 114
best 60ft 1.283


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post #2 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 09:33 AM
 
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I'd go with the 3.27 if I were you...No need to spend $150 on gears when most people give their 3.27's away.....If you can't find someone to give you a set of 3.27's, then you can buy stock take outs for $30-$40.....I bought a set of 3.27's for $40....They were out of an 03 GT.....

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post #3 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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so you would just jump to a 3.27?

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post #4 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 10:27 AM
 
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That seems to be what the turbos really like.......BUT, you probably have to have your converter re-stalled for the gear change.....
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post #5 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 10:49 AM
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Examine very closely the "gains" that people report when going to a taller gear. Try to get some actual numbers out of them other than it just "feels" better.

You don't need a gear change, especially with that glide. All the gear does is dictate what RPM you cross the line at. The converter is a much bigger player in your combo. If you aren't winding the engine out at the line like you'd like, or you don't want to shift before the 1/8th, then change the gear and the converter.

I have yet to see actual numbers from someone bettering their quarter mile time by putting in a taller gear. Especially if the car was running well before. Such as finishing up the quarter just over their shift point.

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post #6 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 10:53 AM
 
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Do you have a tranny brake? If so, then you probably wouldn't have to have the converter restalled....You'd actually probably gain a couple hundred rpms on the brake by going to a 3.27 simply cause it will put more load on the motor.....
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post #7 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 10:56 AM
 
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Originally Posted by ATOMonkey View Post
Examine very closely the "gains" that people report when going to a taller gear. Try to get some actual numbers out of them other than it just "feels" better.

You don't need a gear change, especially with that glide. All the gear does is dictate what RPM you cross the line at. The converter is a much bigger player in your combo. If you aren't winding the engine out at the line like you'd like, or you don't want to shift before the 1/8th, then change the gear and the converter.

I have yet to see actual numbers from someone bettering their quarter mile time by putting in a taller gear. Especially if the car was running well before. Such as finishing up the quarter just over their shift point.
Not so sure about the automatic cars, but several 5 speed guys on turbomustangs have switched from 3.73 to a 3.27 and picked up .3 and as much as 10mph in the quarter....
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post #8 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 11:06 AM
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Not so sure about the automatic cars, but several 5 speed guys on turbomustangs have switched from 3.73 to a 3.27 and picked up .3 and as much as 10mph in the quarter....
Are they power shifting? I'll absolutely believe it if they're granny shifting.

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post #9 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 11:13 AM
 
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Finish line rpm is not the only purpose of the rear gear....It's one thing racer's look at when choosing a gear...But there are other factors too when choosing rear gears....My first mustang was a '95 GT 5 speed.....First time to the track with it, it was stock save for a mac o/r h-pipe and mac catback....Ran consistent [email protected] time I went to the track, I had swapped out the stock 2.73's for a set of 4.10's...First pass was [email protected] gained 3 tenths just with a gear change.....Eventually got a 9.19 out of her once I learned how to work the clutch with the stock 17" radials.....
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post #10 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 11:14 AM
 
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Are they power shifting? I'll absolutely believe it if they're granny shifting.
I'm not really sure about that.....Good question though....Some of those guys drive their cars like there's no tommorrow and some drive them like a 15 yr old girl...

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post #11 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 01:06 PM
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I would only change your gears if you are having problems at the finish line. Right now with my 3:73's the last 100 feet I have to either shift into 5th gear, lift the throttle, or rev is up to about 6200. Since I stop making power around 5800 RPM this is a problem. Try to pick the gear that will cross the line at the just at the end of the powerband if not sooner.

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post #12 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 01:30 PM
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Finish line rpm is not the only purpose of the rear gear....It's one thing racer's look at when choosing a gear...But there are other factors too when choosing rear gears....My first mustang was a '95 GT 5 speed.....First time to the track with it, it was stock save for a mac o/r h-pipe and mac catback....Ran consistent [email protected] time I went to the track, I had swapped out the stock 2.73's for a set of 4.10's...First pass was [email protected] gained 3 tenths just with a gear change.....Eventually got a 9.19 out of her once I learned how to work the clutch with the stock 17" radials.....
Exactly you want to pick the rear end gear that will give you the biggest average HP number during the run. That normally means the gear that will put you at 100 RPM past your shift point at the end of 4th going across the line. (on a quarter mile track.) For an 1/8 mile my dad would only run through the 1st three gears. He normally shifted in 4th at half track so he generally didn't have to change gears for the 1/8th.

Going to a bigger gear to use all 4 in the 1/8th would have overwhelmed the tires at the start line, plus he would be shifting into 2nd before the 60' mark. Way to easy to whack the rev limiter and ruin a run that way.

"Let the little children come to me, and do not hinder them, for the kingdom of God belongs to such as these." - Mark 10:14-15

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post #13 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 01:33 PM
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I'm not really sure about that.....Good question though....Some of those guys drive their cars like there's no tommorrow and some drive them like a 15 yr old girl...
LOL!!

I drive with the skinny pedal matted the entire time, so it really doesn't matter how many times I shift as far as turbo performance.

Even if you just lift a little to bang the gears in a pro-shifted tranny, that little bit will kill the compressor speed and introduce all kinds of f'ed up dynamics.

If you're lifting all the way and clutching while you shift, you're probably better off with only one gear since the turbo will have to spool up in each gear.

"Let the little children come to me, and do not hinder them, for the kingdom of God belongs to such as these." - Mark 10:14-15

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post #14 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have a tranny brake? If so, then you probably wouldn't have to have the converter restalled....You'd actually probably gain a couple hundred rpms on the brake by going to a 3.27 simply cause it will put more load on the motor.....


yes i have a brake, i guess i will go in the deep blue sea and try it and let everyone know how it turns out.

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post #15 of 27 Old 12-01-2006, 05:37 PM
 
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Hey, it doesn't hurt to try.....Too bad you couldn't just do the gear job yourself....That would save you some cash...You're running some killer e.t.'s for the mph....Your chassis is definately working for you......Before you change the gears, go over to turbomustangs and see what gear ratio the PG guys are running for the 1/8 mile....The 4.10's might just be the cream of the crop for the PG+1/8 mile.....
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post #16 of 27 Old 12-02-2006, 09:12 AM
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I'm very interested to see the results.

"Let the little children come to me, and do not hinder them, for the kingdom of God belongs to such as these." - Mark 10:14-15

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post #17 of 27 Old 12-02-2006, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Hey, it doesn't hurt to try.....Too bad you couldn't just do the gear job yourself....That would save you some cash...You're running some killer e.t.'s for the mph....Your chassis is definately working for you......Before you change the gears, go over to turbomustangs and see what gear ratio the PG guys are running for the 1/8 mile....The 4.10's might just be the cream of the crop for the PG+1/8 mile.....
yeah turbomustangs is a great site, i tryed searching to see what i could find and couldnt find anything close to my combo. and i could care less to ask a question over there to be flammed by some stupid post whore that thinks the search button is the key to peace.

i figure i will just give it a shot and try a 3.27 gear, i am droping the tire size down from 28's to a 26' based tire, but i will try with both sets of tires and see what the out come is. i still feel that i should be trapping somewhere in the area of 118-120mph in the 1/8th. i am sure that there is alot left in the car, seeing that the lm1 meter reads to rich all the way down the track, 22 degrees timing, and 15psi boost.

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post #18 of 27 Old 12-03-2006, 08:11 AM
 
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i think 3:55 gears with a PG would be better than 3:27's, i dont know for sure because i have a C-4. whats your rpm going through the traps? and are you gonna run the 1/4 in the future? because for the 1/4 mile the 4:10's will not work, you will be turning to many rpm's at the finish line.
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post #19 of 27 Old 12-05-2006, 11:33 AM
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For a 1/4 turbo car it seems like everyone goes with a 3.27 or around there gear. I'd think for an 1/8th turbo car you would want more like a 3.55 but I am just guessing there. Since a 3.27 and probably even a 3.31 could be had cheap as take offs from other Mustangs then I would try one of those out first from a cost perspective. Sounds like you have a stock block so one of those gears might do you good since it would help keep the rpms down when crossing the finish.

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post #20 of 27 Old 12-24-2006, 11:57 AM
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I think your 60ft's are awesome Jonboy. If you are staying with the 1/8th mile I'd say the tire change from 28-26 and 373's would put you back to about where you are now, so you would have to go at least 355's to notice a diff.
If you have the quarter in your thoughts I'd go all the way to 308's.
What is your suspension set-up and stall on the converter? damn thats fast in the 1/8th. I wish my car would do that! my best is a 1.7 60ft with a 7.2 at 101 in the 1/8th.

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post #21 of 27 Old 12-26-2006, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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I think your 60ft's are awesome Jonboy. If you are staying with the 1/8th mile I'd say the tire change from 28-26 and 373's would put you back to about where you are now, so you would have to go at least 355's to notice a diff.
If you have the quarter in your thoughts I'd go all the way to 308's.
What is your suspension set-up and stall on the converter? damn thats fast in the 1/8th. I wish my car would do that! my best is a 1.7 60ft with a 7.2 at 101 in the 1/8th.


thanks!!!! its came a long way

i am mainly shooting for the 1/8th with a trip or two to a 1/4 mile
my rear suspension is southside lowers, eibach drag kit front and rear with right rear air bag, i have the two step on 4500rpm with out the brake it does good to stall 2500rpm lol. i am going to try a 3.55 and see what happens, i am changing alot of the winter and hope i am goin in the right direction. addind a rear anti roll bar, changing lower arms to a upr, moving to a smaller tire and from a slick to a dot tire.

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post #22 of 27 Old 12-26-2006, 11:04 AM
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Personnally I think you will have your work cut out for you just to match your current results with these changes. Not trying to get down on you but damn it's fast now.

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post #23 of 27 Old 12-26-2006, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Personnally I think you will have your work cut out for you just to match your current results with these changes. Not trying to get down on you but damn it's fast now.


lol yeah i know i have my work cutt out for me in the coming up season. i dont expect to get a better 60ft, et/mph yes but the 60ft is going to be a huge challenge

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post #24 of 27 Old 12-29-2006, 07:08 AM
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What rpm are you trapping with the 4.10's? Do you know your HP and TQ peaks? Why are you switching to a DOT from a slick?

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post #25 of 27 Old 12-29-2006, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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What rpm are you trapping with the 4.10's? Do you know your HP and TQ peaks? Why are you switching to a DOT from a slick?
no clue on where the hp or tq peaks, never been on a dyno before with this setup. switching to a dot tire for a class i am going to run this year. i was trapping around 6000rpms's at 113mph

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post #26 of 27 Old 01-03-2007, 11:06 AM
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Jonboy- You should get a used set of gears and change them yourself.
It's not hard at all! I did it this way and learned how. did 3 gear changes since and all silent. Once you know how you can take more time and make them perfect. all shops gennerally get them close and want to do it as fast as possible.
If you need help PM me.

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post #27 of 27 Old 01-03-2007, 07:51 PM
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I may be chiming in late here but i would go with the gear that places the most load on the car. When i dyno'd my setup you could watch the boost gauge start to drop off in the upper rpms because the motor was not loaded as much. Turbos are a different deal and my setup loves to be loaded, hell i twisted the output shaft out of my Tremec in 3rd gear at about 4000 rpms because thats where the tires finally hooked and loaded the **** out of the motor and bingo 740ftlbs wont hold through a tremec 3550! Just my .02

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