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post #1 of 52 Old 07-06-2005, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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New motor meets the twin turbos-pic

Finally got my motor in this past weekend and started to put things together. I elongated the bolt holes in the headers so that the ports would match better. Fortunately, the turbos are not much lower. The motor is from Central Coast Motorsports. It has probe pistons, stock cam, block and crank. GT40P heads with manley valves. The heads fit really nicely with the flipped shorties. Lots of work to go.
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post #2 of 52 Old 07-06-2005, 02:31 PM
 
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what part of maryland are you from?

thats looking insane man, i can't wait to hear your numbers. any estimates?

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post #3 of 52 Old 07-06-2005, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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I live up in Fredneck and work down in Rockville.
The car was running high 13s on the old nasty motor and no turbos. It is pretty light.
I honestly have no idea what it will do. The turbos on the old motor would break the car loose at 60 mph. We shall see. When I get it together and broken in, I will bring it up to Kaufmans for a dyno session to see if all is safe.
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post #4 of 52 Old 07-06-2005, 05:40 PM
 
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I work on Rockville Pike at the intersection with Wooton Parkway. I'm trying to move up to the Hagerstown/Frederick area too. Can't wait to see more progress man.
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post #5 of 52 Old 07-08-2005, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Hopefully I can drive this car to work pretty soon!
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post #6 of 52 Old 07-08-2005, 01:41 PM
 
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going for the TT daily driver eh? ur nuts
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post #7 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Here are a few more pictures. Currently I am redoing the cold side so it fits in the pside fenderwell better. Will post details after this weekends work.



Erich

97 Laser Red GT-248A Wingless model, Built Lincoln Mark VIII motor-Procharger D1SC, 3 core IC
2012 Black GT-Saddle, 3.73s, Brembos, Shaker1000

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post #8 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 10:38 AM
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ack ... you really like blue, don't you?

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post #9 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 11:21 AM
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hey guys go to my link below and tell me what you think of my motor pics
4 pages of pics motor is on page 2

88 Turbo lx hatch SOLD
2014 KenneBell Powered GTHG mustang GT
2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 ( low miles for trade or sale )
Shopping for a convertible Terminator

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post #10 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 11:25 AM
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Looks too clean, I'd be afraid to drive it, might get dirty.


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post #11 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snipe656
Looks too clean, I'd be afraid to drive it, might get dirty.
lol yeah i get that alot , i just clean it alot

88 Turbo lx hatch SOLD
2014 KenneBell Powered GTHG mustang GT
2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 ( low miles for trade or sale )
Shopping for a convertible Terminator
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post #12 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 11:30 AM
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I have never been able to keep an engine bay nice and clean. I envy the people who do manage to do that.

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post #13 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 11:30 AM
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just curious what do you guys think of my new up comeing club for lasvegas stangs that can run better than 12.5 1/4 mile
Force Fed Stangs
12.5 is a little slow but there guys out in vegas that have a hard time even hitting high 12's with power adders

88 Turbo lx hatch SOLD
2014 KenneBell Powered GTHG mustang GT
2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 ( low miles for trade or sale )
Shopping for a convertible Terminator
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post #14 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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I have nothing against blue. The car is blue randomly. The motor had to be painted because it came without paint. I wanted it some color rather than gray or black. So Ford blue is the obvious choice. But once I start it and there is oil everywhere, it won't look so colorful for long.
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post #15 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 01:19 PM
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Just curious, why does a motor have to be painted? I have seen a lot in use that never were and then a lot that are. Always wondered why that was.

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post #16 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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On my MGBs, I put in a few motors and heads unpainted. It doesn't hurt them but they get nasty looking surface rust all over them.
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post #17 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 05:04 PM
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nasty surface rust < nasty oil on paint I would guess

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post #18 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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With enough oil, you won't get the surface rust. the motor will "season" like a cast iron frying pan.
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post #19 of 52 Old 07-29-2005, 05:21 PM
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I know, kind of like the bed on my old truck

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post #20 of 52 Old 07-30-2005, 08:19 AM
 
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Are those 2.3L turbo IHI's? Those suckers are pretty small. Why not go with some .63 T3's? Not second guessing you, just curious.
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post #21 of 52 Old 08-11-2005, 12:00 AM
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Can you post some details about your setup? Are those turbos sourced from another vehicle? Will you be running PS and A/C?

Kevin
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post #22 of 52 Old 08-11-2005, 03:28 AM
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A t3 60 trim should support a little over 300hp each, to the wheels. Two would be 600. I'm running a pair of them in my v6, you'll get near-instant boost with a v8, not to mention good throttle response

And if you do run out up top...just talk to a local builder (I know a guy in Falls Church, VA, who does top-notch work) and they can probably turn those T3's into a T3-T4 hybrid, which would have more than enough room for ya

~Brad

2000 v6. The not-so-daily-driver daily driver - 2x T3/T40B Hybrids. 2x Tial 38mm Wastegates. HKS SSQV BOV. Massive FMIC.

Come out and play - 370hp/395ft-lbs at wheels. It's just a six, right?
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post #23 of 52 Old 08-11-2005, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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The turbos are from t-bird turbo coupes 87-88. I have PS, smog on there. The car never had AC. Just got done porting and installing the intake. Initially I will run stock 19# injectors, the current 190lph pump and a procharger fmu. I will have it dynoed with a wideband O2 and see where I stand. Cam is stock, pistons are probe forged, rods stock with arp bolts, crank is stock. I have all the accessories on and made new oil feeds using 3/16th brake line. Returns are -10AN. The IHIs won't make as much hp as the bigger T3s. I hope to make 400-450 rwhp.
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post #25 of 52 Old 08-11-2005, 05:48 PM
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Thanks for the info man. One more question, though. Could you approximate about how much a setup like you're doing is costing you or even saving you over a ready-to-install kit?

Kevin
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post #26 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 12:54 AM
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Instead of the FMU, why not get it tuned for real by an SCT dealer?

It'll be more reliable and make more power that way, and you won't need the FMU and all that fuel-line hacking BS.

~Brad

2000 v6. The not-so-daily-driver daily driver - 2x T3/T40B Hybrids. 2x Tial 38mm Wastegates. HKS SSQV BOV. Massive FMIC.

Come out and play - 370hp/395ft-lbs at wheels. It's just a six, right?
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post #27 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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I have been trying not to add things up exactly cost wise. I would say it is in the 2000 buck range. That IC was a big ticket item. The turbos were cheap to begin with like 100 bucks a piece but then I rebuilt them so add another 150 to the price for the kit plus balancing. This and that adds up. I think alot of the kits are a good value considering what goes into them and how much effort it saves the purchaser. If you like doing stuff yourself, then thats another story (like me).

The FMU is going to be temporary most likely. Not much money left. "Just getting it tuned by a real SCT dealer" means: chip $300, Injectors $250, MAF-$150, dyno time $100-200. Oh yeah then why do all that and run a stock throttlebody and EGR spacer. Don't get me wrong, dumping the fmu and doing the above is what I want to do for the reasons you stated (except there is actually no hacking of fuel lines, the fmu just plugs in line) I just want to get the car going first. I will take it to a SCT dealer to check out how that FMU is performing. If I am getting crazy lean spikes, that will certainly force the issue with doing the above. In addition to the turbo stuff costs, this motor cost $2500 and it would be pennywise pound foolish to destroy that to same another $800.
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post #28 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piratius
Instead of the FMU, why not get it tuned for real by an SCT dealer?

It'll be more reliable and make more power that way, and you won't need the FMU and all that fuel-line hacking BS.

~Brad
On a Fox body there should be no need at all to hack a fuel line when doing an FMU. Plus an SCT tune will not do away with the need for an FMU. The FMU is used to up fuel pressure due to a small injector for the power level being used. Bigger injectors and the properly sized mass air is the solution to no FMU. At that point depending on how the computer adjusts to the meter a tune(via chip/programmer) may or may not be needed.

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post #29 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 12:05 PM
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Right, why I said an SCT Tune.

I get the impression you know what you're about , you've got a good idea of what ya needs to make it go good . Sorry for being oversimplistic (just get a tune), I've just heard horror stories about the FMU's, like people buying the wrong unit, a 9:1 instead of a 12:1, or vice-versa, and having horrible things happen to their motor, and having the SCT package myself, I've never looked back.

Anyways, good luck! Like I said, sounds like you've got it planned out! Let us know how it goes!
~Brad

2000 v6. The not-so-daily-driver daily driver - 2x T3/T40B Hybrids. 2x Tial 38mm Wastegates. HKS SSQV BOV. Massive FMIC.

Come out and play - 370hp/395ft-lbs at wheels. It's just a six, right?
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post #30 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Brad-I knew what you meant about getting a tune. The place where I am going to get it dynoed is an SCT dealer (Kaufman's in PA). I have a buddy that went there to straighten out his Kenne Bell setup. The KB chip was way lean. They burned him a new one and got his car running really nicely. Later, he made other mods and they updated his tune as he went. It really seems the way to go. I actually don't trust that fmu too much. I have a blower car with an fmu as well. In that application, the fp comes on in a much more linear fashion. On the turbo, it seems to hesitate than come on fast. So until I can get real data in the form of airfuel ratios, I am going to go very easy on it.
By the way-post up some pics of that V6!
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post #31 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piratius
Right, why I said an SCT Tune.

I get the impression you know what you're about , you've got a good idea of what ya needs to make it go good . Sorry for being oversimplistic (just get a tune), I've just heard horror stories about the FMU's, like people buying the wrong unit, a 9:1 instead of a 12:1, or vice-versa, and having horrible things happen to their motor, and having the SCT package myself, I've never looked back.

Anyways, good luck! Like I said, sounds like you've got it planned out! Let us know how it goes!
~Brad
Yeah but still my point with the Fox body cars is if the right injectors/mass air were used then the FMU could be trashcanned and a lot of people never have to get a chip/programmer so long as the mass air sensor is calibrated correctly. Unfortunately the meters being done right seems to really be hit or miss for a lot. I can think of quite a few examples of these turbo charged cars with no chip/programmers and running perfectly.

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post #32 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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snipe-so which, in your opinion, is a good calibrated maf that is currently available?
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post #33 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 12:51 PM
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I wish I knew but now days meters have changed with Pro-M gone and some new companies coming around. The people I know who have not had to do a chip/programmer all have Pro-M meters and most are just the 75mm bullet but some had to have theirs recalibrated a few times before Pro-M got it right. I think SCT might sell a meter, they seem to know their stuff for tuning, maybe they have it down for meters too?

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post #34 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 01:39 PM
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Here's SCT's MAF: http://www.sctflash.com/bigair.php

It states it's a direct replacement for the Ls and Cobras, but I wonder if they will have or if it can be used as a universal meter for function with their tuning software.

Pro-M is back, BTW, FWIW. Only they're just called Professional Mass Air Systems now, but they are taking meters to have calibrations performed.

Kevin
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post #35 of 52 Old 08-12-2005, 01:49 PM
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Yeah I heard Pro-M was back but only will recalibrate certain style meters.

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