Please help me get my JYTT to work!! Im getting frustrated - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 06-21-2005, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Please help me get my JYTT to work!! Im getting frustrated

Im getting really annoyed now,
Ive done everything I thought of and still no dice,
The car shudders, backfires, and wont clean rev,

If anyone remembers my other threads It seems I bought 38# injectors thinking they were 42#,

I now have 42# injectors and fitted them today along with a Pro-M Univeral blow thru.
Can still wont run

heres the problems,

The car wont rev properly, It shudders under boost and my boost gauge goes up and down from 5 to 8psi to 5 to 8 to 10 etc, and the whole car rocks like crazy,

The fuel rail or injectors are making a screaming noise, like a slipping belt, but its the injectors, I can also hear a very loud hissing that seems to be coming from the fuel rail, alomost sounds like a vacuum leak,

Now heres my setup,

302 TT,
2 Garrett T3's with external wastegates controed by a boost valve,
255 LPH Walbro
42# ford racing injectors
42# blow thru ProM Universal
stock fuel rail and regulator
10* timing

Now with that formular the car would run?
why wont mine?

also the check engine light comes on all the time, then goes off, then comes on, the car wont run, sometimes it wont start again,

also the turbos make a weird noise when you let off the gas, sounds like boooooooooooooooooo,
really weird, never heard that


Please help me fix this, I feel so close yet so far,

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post #2 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 09:10 AM
 
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First of all, take the spout out and set your timming to 18-19 deg. This will eliminate timming isssues. Second, what type of wastegates do you have? I have a Tial 44mm and when I hooked it up wrong (vacuums) the car was having odd issues. How does the car run at idle? Will it free rev (no boost) or does it break up?

What spring is in the wastegate? What psi?


Last edited by Turbo5oh; 06-22-2005 at 09:14 AM. Reason: typo
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post #3 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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its an actuator rail type wastegate

and is it safe to run the car with the spout out?
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post #4 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 10:39 AM
 
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Yes it's safe, taking the spout out locks the timming down it does not let the eec make changes. Is there vacuum lines to the wastegate(s)? do you have a blow off valve?
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post #5 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
 
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yes acuum lines to the wastegates and I do have a BOV,

Im starting to think it my MAF,
Could I run a lightning MAF as a blow thru?
ive heard it does actually work
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post #6 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 11:55 AM
 
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No, a Lightning MAF is different, you need a chip burnt for it.
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post #7 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 05:48 PM
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Is your bov AFTER the MAF? If so, you are losing metered air. That will make the car run screwy.
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post #8 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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no BOV is before the MAF

still wont run
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post #9 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 06:57 PM
 
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what is your car's idle rpm right now?

Couple things i would do first:

1st, lock your timing as suggested above.
2nd, take a .010 feeler gauge and adjust your throttle body plate, after you set that to a slight drag, go into the car, turn the key to the power side, but don't start the car and set your tps, stick a pin in the green wire and ground out where ever and set your tps to .096 to .098. Then start the car and see how it idles.....
3rd, be sure your vacuum lines on your wastegates are on the sides and not on the top, unless you have a digital boost controller......
4th,Adjust your wastegates almost all the way down, don't worry to much about the amount of boost right now because you are trying to tune the motor so that it will run.
5th, on your bov be sure you screw it downward almost as far as it will go......
6th, be sure that your wastegate vacuum lines and your bov are on seperate sources.
7th, check your fuel pressure.....with the car running at idle, remove your vacuum line and install a little bolt or something in the end of it so it doesn't leak......then adjust your fuel pressure to 38 or 39 #'s..........

take the car for a spin and see if you still have shudder and back firing.......i will try to get back to your post a.s.a.p.

hotwheels of insanemustangs.com
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post #10 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 07:27 PM
 
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also, before i forget, what are your sparkplugs gapped too? should be between .32 and .35 hotwheels

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post #11 of 19 Old 06-22-2005, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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yes Im using autolite 3923's at .35 gap

Im going to yry those things tomorrow see if it runs better
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post #12 of 19 Old 06-23-2005, 09:02 AM
 
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let me know how it goes............later, hotwheels
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post #13 of 19 Old 06-24-2005, 08:56 AM
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Sound like the fuel pressure regulator. The check engine light is prolly from the surging, the maf is prolly freaking out, throwing a light. What codes are you getting? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? What is it doing? Where is the fuel pressure at an idle? The boost is going up and down, cause it is trying to accelerate, but can't. The noise from the turbos? I have no idea about that. How is the oil pressure?

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post #14 of 19 Old 06-24-2005, 01:16 PM
 
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Vacuum leaks have been known around fule rails, and will make a car run like open ass. Im no expert on turbo cars so I have no advice to give you here. If you think your hearing a vacuum leak from the rails, then you most likely are. did you put the injectors in dry, or did you add some sort of lubricant to the orings to help them slip in. I usualy do that to keep them from ripping especialy in aftermarket intakes where the machining process sometimes varys from intake to intake. I usualy hold my rails down tight with one hand and tighten them with the other just to assure no leaks. Wish we were there in person to help bud.
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post #15 of 19 Old 06-24-2005, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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yeah really sounds like the fuel rails hissing,

then If I push down on the rail the car dies,

DAM this car to hell
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post #16 of 19 Old 06-27-2005, 10:18 PM
 
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Its something to do with your fuel rails, injectors or something in that area. If you push down on the rail and the car dies then something is wrong. I would take the rail off and see if an o ring is busted on one of the injectors.
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post #17 of 19 Old 07-02-2005, 12:23 AM
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I had the same problem. It was a cracked o ring, replace the o rings and uut it back in. I would seat the injectors in the manifold first then use a rubber malet to gelty tabe the rail into place on the injectors. Press down on the rail as you tighten it down, as the bolt you are driving is will want to raise the rails up. Good luck!
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post #18 of 19 Old 07-16-2005, 01:15 PM
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when we installed injectors i found it was MUCH easier to put all the injectors in the rail first, then lay the rail down on the intake, and one by one, pop each injector into the intake port

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post #19 of 19 Old 07-16-2005, 06:34 PM
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plus put a dab of oil on the o ring of each injector before you install them

what kind of engine management are you using also?

1 bad Mustang, 2 slow Z28's, and a Sierra crewcab for the groceries.
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