Lrt's talk radiators and fans for the Hot Turbo cars - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 44 Old 07-08-2019, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Lrt's talk radiators and fans for the Hot Turbo cars

Ok so there is the contour fans on ebay new and used they probably suck the most air .But you need a 3rd gen alt I believe? And more wireing to be done and that is allways a blast to make look clean
So what's the your guys clean set up or wire buying kit that works.

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post #2 of 44 Old 07-08-2019, 09:35 PM
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Contour fans with Ron Francis at-99 “Ice Box” controller. Awesome set up. Starts the fans at 2 separate temps to control draw.
There is one on Corral for sale.


Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #3 of 44 Old 07-08-2019, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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? I have I dont have my Holly efi on the car yet will the Holly run the fans I think it may?
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post #4 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 07:33 AM
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Yes, I run Holley HP EFI and they run my Contour fans.

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #5 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Ok cool well hopefully someone with out the Holly will see the benefit of the part posted above.
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post #6 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Another? Do the 1979-93 MUSTANG CONTOUR ELECTRIC FAN ASSEMBLY that Lmr sells new .Are they as good as a old Used set off Ebay from a contour The stats look the same from what I have looked up any recommendations on this?
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post #7 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 09:16 AM
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Don't skimp on the radiator. The more water that is cooled from the airflow the cooler the water will get so make sure you get a real good one with a lot of surface area and good fin spacing.

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post #8 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 10:01 AM
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you would need zero water flow for that to be true

more water will will absorb more heat per time and will require more time to give it up

larger amount of water will not help reject more heat

GPM and CFM and coefficient of heat transfer are the key items to reject heat per time

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post #9 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 11:19 AM
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Listen to the two gentlemen that also posted in here. Very smart guys and I always read anything they post so I can learn.
Anyways, I bought the Dorman Contour fan off of RockAuto for $90 I believe. Had it for 3 years now and not a single issue. I actually bought 2 so I could have a back up. At $90 it was a simple choice for me. You could go to a local junkyard and pull 1 or 2 from a v6 Contour or cougar. Probably be a lot cheaper, but those fans all had 150,000 miles +, so I decided on new Dorman units.

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #10 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 11:19 AM
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Hmmmm....searching what the Contour fan looks like showed me that is what my car had on it when I bought it. If I even need to service or replace I now know what kind of fan unit it uses.

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post #11 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ya I'm not going to go to the Junk Yard unless its something that was way better so I will do the rock auto Doarman then.

So with that being said with the good Fans .
What raditors are you guys Happy with for Street cars ?
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post #12 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotoys22 View Post
Ok so there is the contour fans on ebay new and used they probably suck the most air .But you need a 3rd gen alt I believe? And more wireing to be done and that is allways a blast to make look clean
So what's the your guys clean set up or wire buying kit that works.
As for radiators, best thing I ever did to one of my cars over the year was to put a "Be Cool" radiator in it. Well worth the money!!!
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post #13 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
you would need zero water flow for that to be true

more water will will absorb more heat per time and will require more time to give it up

larger amount of water will not help reject more heat

GPM and CFM and coefficient of heat transfer are the key items to reject heat per time
Are you referring to my post? I'm talking about removing the heat from the water.


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post #14 of 44 Old 07-09-2019, 04:13 PM
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Yes i was referring to your post

Having more water just increases the amount of heat the cooling system can carry

Nothing to do with the rate at which it can absorb or reject


If your engine produces 100btus/hour

Your rad better be able to reject 100btus/hour

If it can do only 90btus/hour

Having more water in system just allows more time before an overheat happens

Does not fix the overheat
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post #15 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
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If your engine produces 100btus/hour

Your rad better be able to reject 100btus/hour

I agree. I wasn't talking about simply adding more water to the system, that's a moot point. My comment about a larger/better radiator was to address the issue you outlined above, larger as in 2-row vs 3-row, and making sure there are adequate fin density to dissipate the heat from the water and still have good airflow through it.

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post #16 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Makes alot of sence. So what raditors are you 2 guys running just out of curiosity in your cars.
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post #17 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 09:12 AM
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Makes alot of sence. So what raditors are you 2 guys running just out of curiosity in your cars.
I believe mine is from CJ Pony. It's a 3-core aluminum for manual trans cars. I have a separate cooler/fan for the transmission located in the fender. My system works better than I ever expected.
I have a large IC from Treadstone, A/C condenser, then the radiator with factory 2002 GT fan and my car has never been 200* even in downtown traffic when temps outside were over 100*.

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post #18 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 09:15 AM
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You can also possibly pull some heat out from the oil. Which is good for the oil and also to pull heat out a secondary way.

Your primary cooling system is the radiator/coolant system. Your secondary cooling system is your oil system, if you set it up to do so. Your tertiary cooling system is convection off the block/heads/etc...

I can't say this is definitly true, but it has been my understanding that if your engine compartment is a high pressure area, air will more around it rather than through it. Which hurts cooling performance. If it's a low pressure area, high pressure are will move through it. Which you want.
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post #19 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 09:45 AM
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I can't say this is definitly true, but it has been my understanding that if your engine compartment is a high pressure area, air will more around it rather than through it. Which hurts cooling performance. If it's a low pressure area, high pressure are will move through it. Which you want.
Correct. If the air inside the engine compartment (behind the radiator) isn't removed then the air being pulled in from the fan has nowhere to go so the overall airflow through the radiator is decreased. Air being pulled through the radiator has to get removed out of the engine bay to keep the air flowing.

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post #20 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 12:18 PM
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I agree. I wasn't talking about simply adding more water to the system, that's a moot point. My comment about a larger/better radiator was to address the issue you outlined above, larger as in 2-row vs 3-row, and making sure there are adequate fin density to dissipate the heat from the water and still have good airflow through it.

ks
I see, the ‘more water’ comment you made, sounded like a bigger rad that holds more water
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post #21 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 02:33 PM
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I would suggest a 2 row with 1" core radiator flavor of choice with the contour fans and you'll be good

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I spec'd my whole build to fit a cold air intake I had
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post #22 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 04:55 PM
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I run a Fluidyne with Contour fans controlled by my Holley EFI. Works well even with a large/thick intercooler in front of it.

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #23 of 44 Old 07-10-2019, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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I may have to copy that Have the Holly still in box will install over winter.I I ordered the contour fan from Rock Auto so why not order the fluidyne next Thanks hope fully others will learn from this as well.
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post #24 of 44 Old 07-11-2019, 11:37 AM
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Contour fans with Ron Francis at-99 “Ice Box” controller. Awesome set up. Starts the fans at 2 separate temps to control draw.
There is one on Corral for sale.


I have the same setup. Awesome to say the least.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stock bottom end, gt40 top, V1 s trim, TKO, 5 lug, 4 wheel disc, etc
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post #25 of 44 Old 07-11-2019, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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So what degree Thermostat are you guys running I remember when I thought about buying a Pro- M engine management system he clearly stated it's a old thinking to put a 180 deg Thermostat in the car. Let's talk about this.
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post #26 of 44 Old 07-11-2019, 05:30 PM
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I run a 180 in mine b/c it was in there.

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post #27 of 44 Old 07-11-2019, 06:39 PM
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No thermostat here

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #28 of 44 Old 07-11-2019, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting I did that on my turbo busa as well.What do you see your temps at?
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post #29 of 44 Old 07-11-2019, 09:02 PM
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My temps stay right around 180. After a bit of hammering on her, she may rise up to 190-200, but haven’t seen it passed that. Although I haven’t driven it much on hot humid days. For the most part it stays right around 180. I’ll find out soon how well my cooling system works now that the hot/humid weather is here.
Last fall temps were rising up to about 210-220 on me. Then I realized I reversed the connections on one of the Contour fans and it was pushing not pulling....oops. Stayed right at 180 after.

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.

Last edited by AtomicCoupe; 07-11-2019 at 09:13 PM.
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post #30 of 44 Old 07-12-2019, 12:13 AM
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Too cold

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post #31 of 44 Old 07-12-2019, 02:21 AM
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Twin Spal fans & a Ron Davis single-pass radiator is on one of my cars that has a condenser & a big intercooler.

A Griffin GRC 126242 radiator (27.5x19x3") is on my other car with a MarkVIII fan.

Both are 1000 rwhp turbo cars with a rough amount of engine heat to fight off. If the Ron Davis went out on me, I'd try the Griffin on that car, too. The Ron Davis is $$$ but it looks good, can come with a killer integrated overflow tank, and fans with shroud. Nice set up.

I recommend putting a cover on the turbine housing, and carefully inspecting the exhaust for any places that it comes near plastic, rubber, etc... Run Accel 9000 plugs with the ceramic spark plug boots, and you'll never have another melted boot. I still run the plug & wire sleeves anyways, though. If you have any other pipes that are causing issues, I recommend this stuff: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSP-177201

It is my opinion/belief that you want oil temps to routinely operate in the 200-230* range, and that they typically are 15-30* (sometimes hotter for brief stints) higher than coolant temps. The car should routinely allow the oil temps to get over the boiling point of water and upwards of 220*, because water is the natural byproduct of combustion and it will build up in the oil if it is not boiled off, and water is bad juju for lubricity.

With this in mind, I run my cars with a 185* thermostat. At speeds above 40mph in the Ron Davis car, it does not rely on the fans, at all, and coolant temps stay right at 188*. Not sure about the Griffin car (stock gauge), but it's never been an issue. That is the coldest thermostat I am comfortable running. I set my fans to come on at 205*, and turn off at 195*. This gives the car a minute or two from its steady-state 188* to handle a traffic light without kicking the fans on, allowing me to get back to speed. In stop-and-go traffic, the fans kick on at 205, it usually doesn't go over 208*, and in the worst heat I've seen in the car, ~100*F summer day, I've seen temps as high as 213* before they turn back around, and the fans still bring it back down to normal. I'm very comfortable with that.

When I see temps approaching 220* with aluminum components, I get pretty nervous. There's no way in hell I'll let it much over that. I never want to see 240*, because that's the point I consider dangerous. With iron heads, I think it can take more. I used to circle track and pushed temps closing in on 300* with iron block/heads. But, I wouldn't ever do that on the street, we did a lot of maintenance between sessions. Normal motor oils (dino) starts breaking down above ~275*, and good synthetics (not all) can go over 300*.

Anyways, I'm rambling at this point. Hope something there was useful.
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post #32 of 44 Old 07-12-2019, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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What a great amount of information thank you .
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post #33 of 44 Old 07-12-2019, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
Too cold
My temps are too cold? What do you recommend? My tuner, is the one who set the car to operate at this temp. Does it matter on the fuel type? Boost? Again, I have not driven it in any hot weather yet and I also haven’t driven it for long periods of time yet. Just a 2-3 mile loop around the block. Fans are set to come on at 185 through the Holley EFI.
I’m going back for a pump gas 93 tune hopefully tomorrow, so I’ll have a talk with him about it.

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #34 of 44 Old 07-12-2019, 09:01 AM
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180 is fine as long as you make the correct corresponding adjustments in the tune.
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post #35 of 44 Old 07-12-2019, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by AtomicCoupe View Post
My temps are too cold? What do you recommend? My tuner, is the one who set the car to operate at this temp. Does it matter on the fuel type? Boost? Again, I have not driven it in any hot weather yet and I also haven’t driven it for long periods of time yet. Just a 2-3 mile loop around the block. Fans are set to come on at 185 through the Holley EFI.
I’m going back for a pump gas 93 tune hopefully tomorrow, so I’ll have a talk with him about it.
I recommend 195f stat

200f running conditions

fans on at 215-220f, off at 205-200f

the trick is too keep the ECT nice and hot and IAT as cool as possible= more power

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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