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post #1 of 13 Old 05-03-2016, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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What stall speed

Going with a circle d converter, but still unsure of what stall speed to go with.

Cars set up is the following: stock bottom end 2v, On3 kit with borg warner s366, 4r70, 3.73 rear gear, and tire will be a 315/35/17.

Car will be mainly a street car but will see the track.


'01 GT - sold
'05 CVPI - DD
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-03-2016, 07:07 PM
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I run an s366 on a 4.3l v6 and I'd suggest 3500rpm converter. I run a tight 3000 on mine but have a trans brake in my 4r70w. What housing did you go with? You could keep the converter tight and add a quick spool valve or build one for the divided 91.


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post #3 of 13 Old 05-03-2016, 10:31 PM
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I went with a 2800 multi-disc knowing it may be a bit tight but I like it driving around town but I don't know how my twin 60mm's compares to your turbo.


ks


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post #4 of 13 Old 05-04-2016, 09:51 AM
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My trans and converter builder won't build my converter until we can get a better dyno graph. Have you talked to Circle D about it and compared where your power and boost starts to come on at?

I'm really really new to autos in the turbo world and luckily I have a good local builder of both the trans and converter.

Dart 348ci, Ed Curtis cam/valvetrain, Precision 76mm, Holley Dominator EFI, CNP ignition, tons of Holler EFI small parts, 4"dp, 4R70W w/T-brake, new suspension coming soon.

Little 750rwhp at 6,000rpms and only 10lbs of boost before we just got tired of playing with clutches. New 4R70W and we are turning it up. Expecting 1,000rwhp.
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-04-2016, 05:38 PM
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You really need the converter with a stall just above the torque peak, if you have enough tire to handle the launching torque. My 6600-6700 stall is high for my engine because my engine is blowing through the converter (it was 5500 at 700 HP and I am WAY over that now), but it still drove fine on the street. It would cruise just over what the gear calculates, it only had about 10% RPM differential at cruise.

If you plan on getting some traction, you might want to stall just above torque peak.

I just now finished swapping my converter for a new one. The new one should stall at 6K hopefully. My engine torque peak is at 5800. The old one is making too much heat during passes. It does not have sprags or a mechanical diode so it runs hot on the street and that costs me a little MPH and ET.


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post #6 of 13 Old 05-04-2016, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomR View Post
You really need the converter with a stall just above the torque peak, if you have enough tire to handle the launching torque. My 6600-6700 stall is high for my engine because my engine is blowing through the converter (it was 5500 at 700 HP and I am WAY over that now), but it still drove fine on the street. It would cruise just over what the gear calculates, it only had about 10% RPM differential at cruise.

If you plan on getting some traction, you might want to stall just above torque peak.

I just now finished swapping my converter for a new one. The new one should stall at 6K hopefully. My engine torque peak is at 5800. The old one is making too much heat during passes. It does not have sprags or a mechanical diode so it runs hot on the street and that costs me a little MPH and ET.
Damn! That's a lot of stall lol. Is that foot brake or trans brake stall? Foot brake mine will go to 2800rpm and build 2-3psi. On the brake it will go to 5300 and build all the boost.

2003 v6 Turbo 4.3 stroker
6.67 @ 106mph, still tuning...
Displacement is no replacement for boost
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-05-2016, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JTsStang View Post
Damn! That's a lot of stall lol. Is that foot brake or trans brake stall? Foot brake mine will go to 2800rpm and build 2-3psi. On the brake it will go to 5300 and build all the boost.
That is on trans brake. It is a few hundred higher on the shift.

On foot brake my car rolls at maybe 2500-3500. It is some ridiculously low RPM against the brakes.

I have not even tested the new one yet. I want to have it stall about 6K and drop to maybe 6400 on shift. I just hope it does not slow the car down. I shift at 7500.

I don't really know where the TQ peak is, because it pushes through the converter too much to tell. I'm guessing around 5500.


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post #8 of 13 Old 05-05-2016, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTsStang View Post
I run an s366 on a 4.3l v6 and I'd suggest 3500rpm converter. I run a tight 3000 on mine but have a trans brake in my 4r70w. What housing did you go with? You could keep the converter tight and add a quick spool valve or build one for the divided 91.
Going with the .91 housing

The trans will be a 4r70/75, circle d converter (Stall undecided), electronically shifted (Stock 04 gt pcm), no brake.

'01 GT - sold
'05 CVPI - DD
'00 GT - Broken
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-12-2016, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Just emailed circle d and they recommended the pro series 245mm 3C (35-3700 stall) converter.

How would a 35-3700 stall be for street driving? Also for a stock 2v ( wont be revving past 6k).

'01 GT - sold
'05 CVPI - DD
'00 GT - Broken
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-12-2016, 08:00 PM
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Mine on the transbrake with 12psi.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7ZKaM6wgok


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post #11 of 13 Old 05-15-2016, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by y2k02 View Post
Mine on the transbrake with 12psi.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7ZKaM6wgok
Is it gated at 12 psi or do you ramp boost in with co2? Did not think I heard a 2 step.

2003 v6 Turbo 4.3 stroker
6.67 @ 106mph, still tuning...
Displacement is no replacement for boost
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post #12 of 13 Old 05-15-2016, 07:42 PM
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That was without the 2-step and I did have 12psi springs.
That was true stall with 12psi. With 15psi it stalled to 5150rpms.
I just installed 4psi springs and I will use the boost controller to set
the boost level. The car spins launching with 12psi and 2-step at 3800rpm.

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post #13 of 13 Old 05-19-2016, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravik View Post
Just emailed circle d and they recommended the pro series 245mm 3C (35-3700 stall) converter.

How would a 35-3700 stall be for street driving? Also for a stock 2v ( wont be revving past 6k).
The stall does not mean much for street driving if it is a higher power converter.
Because you are at such light throttle, it will not slip much at all no matter what the stall.

The most important thing is to get one with a mechanical diode or sprags. I had a locked stator spragless converter and it made a lot of heat on the street. A 6200-6300 stall with a mechanical diode cooled the trans about 100 degrees in extended street driving.





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