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post #1 of 13 Old 01-16-2016, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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HP turbo kit

I bought a hp kit off a member here today for my 86. From what I have read they came with a 76mm c&l and 42lb injectors. Does anyone know if the used the regular 42lb sample tube (green I think) or did they have a special one that came with the kit? Also where should I set my timing and gap my plugs when I get this up and running? Also i came with a moroso oil catch can, where should i put it? Never had a turbo car so I have a lot of questions and would appreciate any insight.

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post #2 of 13 Old 01-16-2016, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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And what is the best location for the oil return and what do you recommend I use for a fitting? Thanks.

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post #3 of 13 Old 01-18-2016, 01:54 PM
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I bought a hp kit off a member here today for my 86. From what I have read they came with a 76mm c&l and 42lb injectors. Does anyone know if the used the regular 42lb sample tube (green I think) or did they have a special one that came with the kit? Also where should I set my timing and gap my plugs when I get this up and running? Also i came with a moroso oil catch can, where should i put it? Never had a turbo car so I have a lot of questions and would appreciate any insight.

I have the Hp kit on my 87. It did come with a c&l meter and it used a regular green sample tube. When I bought my kit new I opted out of the mass air and went with a pro M. I never liked C&l because it never worked correctly. Are you planning on getting it tune? If not you can lock your timing at 20 degrees and set your plugs at 32( regular copper auto lite plugs) until you do get it tuned. What's the rest of your combo? Depending what else you have, I would suggest maybe running 60 lbs injectors. As for your catch can, I have mine mounted on the diver side on the frame rail by the radiator.
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-18-2016, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. I have tw heads e cam 1.7 rockers and an r series intake 75mm throttle body. I am planning on getting it tuned once its done but I want to be able to drive it before hand. How do you like your kit?
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-19-2016, 09:22 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I have tw heads e cam 1.7 rockers and an r series intake 75mm throttle body. I am planning on getting it tuned once its done but I want to be able to drive it before hand. How do you like your kit?

I would upgrade to 60lbs injectors. I run 60's with mine and I run edelbrock performer heads and rpm 2 with a custom cam. I love my kit except my kit doesn't work with all aftermarket k members ( had one of the original kits). The driver side header comes very close to the k member. I run a team Z k member with no problems but the header is close. I'm not sure when they modified the design if it resolved the header issue. Another thing I'm not a fan of is the open wastegate. Years ago I had it routed back into the exhaust. Other than that, it's a great kit. The kit is capable of making a lot of horsepower with the right turbo.
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-20-2016, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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I hope I don't have too much trouble with my upr k member. I'm not going to 60s. Yet. I don't have the bottom end to take more the 42s can support anyway. Hoping to get started putting it on this weekend.
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-20-2016, 06:08 PM
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I'm in the process of installing one on my 88. I am also going to use a pro m mass air meter. It's s tight fit on the passenger side. I'm not sure on the lines, the ones that came with my used kit are way short.


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post #8 of 13 Old 01-20-2016, 07:53 PM
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I hope I don't have too much trouble with my upr k member. I'm not going to 60s. Yet. I don't have the bottom end to take more the 42s can support anyway. Hoping to get started putting it on this weekend.

I had a issue with my upr kit when I had the kit but I did have one of upr's first k members when it came out over 10 years ago. You should be ok since they changed the design a little.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-20-2016, 08:03 PM
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Take your time putting the kit together. You will have to cut a couple of holes in the frame for the oil drain and the turbo outlet that connects to your cold pipes. Another suggestion I would make if you haven't done so already is buy the march alternator bracket so it moves the alternator away driver side header. That header gets very hot and the alternator is very close with the stock setup.
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-23-2016, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Good call on the fitment issue. Drivers header smashes into my k member. Did you have to knock your passenger sway bar bracket off? Anyone have instructions or a link to them for this kit?

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post #11 of 13 Old 01-23-2016, 10:27 PM
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Good call on the fitment issue. Drivers header smashes into my k member. Did you have to knock your passenger sway bar bracket off? Anyone have instructions or a link to them for this kit?

How bad does it hit? What motor mounts are you running. One thing I did and it may help is, I switched from energy suspension motor mounts to prothane mounts. The prothane mounts lifted the motor just enough so it was away from the k member. Only problem with this is my motor sat higher then I wanted too. One thing to correct this was I bought 1/4 k member spacers from maximum Motorsport. So basically even though I lifted the motor, with the spacers I was able to keep the same height as it was originally with the energy suspension mount. I know it sounds like a pain but it maybe an option if you're willing to do it or you can just try the mounts and see if that helps. As for the sway bar bracket, I did cut them out and smooth them but I wish I didn't. I remember the header hitting it but I think you can notch it out a little and it will work. The kit was designed around a stock k member. When I bought the kit brand new, I ran it with a stock k member and everything went in ok. It's when I change to a aftermarket k member is when I ran into issues.
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post #12 of 13 Old 01-23-2016, 11:03 PM
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As mentioned before I'm process of installing on 88 convertible. Using stock k member and some after market engine and tranny mounts.

The turbo required a lot of cutting of where the stock air box was and passenger side headlight. The turbo's air filter goes in the fender.

My down pipe to the y where the tail pipes go to was one piece. It was fun getting it in. Head to remove passenger header.


You will want the march alternator bracket. If you are keeping ac, you'll need to re route the ac lines.

The headers and cross over pipe cleared most everything pretty well. I re routed my starter cable and am doing something with my fuel lines.

I used the arp 5/16 head header bolts. It's not any worse than other headers. I'm not sure if studs would be better, the small heads is what you want.

You'll need a shorter oil filter or a 90 degree adapter. There was a post about shorter oil filters a while back.

I was able to drop my motor in with headers on motor. Could have had cross over pipe on also. I didn't have power steering bolted to engine when I did this.

I'm not sure why but the inter cooler did not clear my LX bumper cover. That was the worst part about not having directions.


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post #13 of 13 Old 01-24-2016, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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My header is smashed into the k bad. I'm most likely going to cut the mount pad down and move the bar that holds it up down about an inch. My intake is about a 1/4 inch from hitting my hood again so I'm not totally sure what I'm gonna yet.
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