Who is using head studs? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 11-29-2015, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Who is using head studs?

I have ARP head bolts already, so I can save the money. But I was wondering if I should get it over with. I already have Main Studs..

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post #2 of 18 Old 12-05-2015, 12:21 AM
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how much boost are you going to run?


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post #3 of 18 Old 12-05-2015, 12:47 AM
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Any engine with mods to the top end, bottom end, or power adder of any kind should get head studs in my opinion. It is cheap insurance!!
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post #4 of 18 Old 12-06-2015, 07:51 PM
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exactly!

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post #5 of 18 Old 12-06-2015, 09:12 PM
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Just get the studs. Sell the bolts. Since you have arp bolts the gain isn't as much but still worth it imho.

Studs have several advantages over bolts



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post #6 of 18 Old 12-07-2015, 05:04 PM
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I lost a head gasket shortly after going turbo with ARP head bolts. Switched to ARP head studs, no problem since.

1989 5.0 T5 LX Hatch - Explorer Short Block with an FMS F-303 cam, TFS TW170 heads, Tmoss Ported Cobra Intake, an On3 Turbo Kit with a 67mm Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo, and backed by a T56 Magnum 6spd with 3.55's
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post #7 of 18 Old 12-21-2015, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MYSTICSVT View Post
I lost a head gasket shortly after going turbo with ARP head bolts. Switched to ARP head studs, no problem since.
I had the same issue. Head studs and no looking back!

1989 5.0 GT / Trickflow HCI / 70MM On3 kit

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post #8 of 18 Old 12-29-2015, 02:07 PM
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while you're at it get some header studs as that's another item worth investing in not only as you never have to worry about accidentally messing up the threads in the heads (yes rare but seen it happen to someone and not fun) but also solves 99.99% of any header leak bs. another one on that list are intake studs.

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post #9 of 18 Old 01-08-2016, 09:07 AM
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Pk I agree completely. I've studded everything I could.
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post #10 of 18 Old 01-08-2016, 08:35 PM
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I'm still rocking ARP head bolts at 470hp and 504tq on 11lbs


91 Turbo 302 coupe
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post #11 of 18 Old 01-09-2016, 07:17 PM
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Head studs here.
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-17-2016, 10:18 AM
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9333s and stud it!
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post #13 of 18 Old 01-18-2016, 12:25 PM
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What does everyone think about doing studs while the engine is already together? I have ARP head bolts right now but if I wanted to do studs, could I just take one out at a time and install them that way?
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post #14 of 18 Old 01-18-2016, 12:46 PM
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I run head studs and main studs on everything I run. Cheap insurance for sure!

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post #15 of 18 Old 01-18-2016, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99BlownVert View Post
What does everyone think about doing studs while the engine is already together? I have ARP head bolts right now but if I wanted to do studs, could I just take one out at a time and install them that way?

I wouldn't want to do that but you might be alright, 50/50 chance.


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post #16 of 18 Old 01-18-2016, 10:15 PM
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Be careful, on the passenger side you may not have clearance with the strut tower being in the way. It's pretty tight on that side trying to get the bottom studs in.
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post #17 of 18 Old 01-19-2016, 07:58 AM
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I wouldn't want to do that but you might be alright, 50/50 chance.


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i agree as it's not going to be a dry install if it's a 302 as the bottom row goes right into the cooling chamber

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post #18 of 18 Old 01-19-2016, 09:23 PM
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ARP says the primary difference is in ease of assembly and accuracy of torquing.



HEAD STUDS vs. BOLTS...A TECHNICAL DISCUSSION ARP-bolts.com

ARP’s factory Tech Representatives are often asked which is better, cylinder head studs or bolts. The answer, invariably, depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it’s probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car.

For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading.

Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a “relaxed” mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.
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89 LX. 363, single turbo, Super Vic EFI, TFS high port heads by TEA, solid roller, glide. Holley HP EFI. (exact combo varies)
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