on3 oil leak and missfire - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 48 Old 09-18-2012, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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on3 oil leak and missfire

So Today i finaly finished my art carr c4 install.. So went for a cruze and fell in love with my car again. Then decided to try the msd 2 step and trans brake so came to complete stop put in first held button gave it gas had the limiter set to 3250rpm got 6-7 psi boost let go of the button and roasted the tires very fun never had a trans brake before.



So on my way home after that the car now has a missfire.
If i roll on the gas it just falls on its face. It was fine for the last 2 months with the t5 (500 or so miles) less than 20miles with the c4 and 1 tb launch now its missing.
Can the msd 2 step foul plugs?
Only pulled 1 car still hot
what kind of plugs should i get? what gap?


And i noticed i have a oil leak on the top of my turbo. What should i seal the threads with?


Thanks for any input and help


Last edited by execlon; 09-18-2012 at 08:14 PM.
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post #2 of 48 Old 09-18-2012, 08:56 PM
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I can only help with the oil leak issue. I used liquid teflon on the threads there and by the sending unit.


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post #3 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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that fixed my oil leak thanks!

So today and changed all my plugs and on turbo side while i was there i put in a copper exhaust header gasket in. I check all my plug wires for burns etc all seem good.. All my old plugs were gap at 40 i gap the new ones at 30 none looked bad. Got everything put together. Car seems like its running with a choke on.

when i did the t5 to c4 swap i had to turn up the idle screw alot to get it to idle.
Now its idleing at 800rpm and pulling 5 vac it use to pull 12 vac.

And i havent gotten as far as disconnecting the clutch switch so you have to push it in to start.. If you push it in when idleing it idles a little better and pulls a bit more vac but revs up very slow.

Instead of going down road i to see if i had miss i just put in first hit my trans brake wich is hooked to my 2step(set to 3250) and it only rev'd up to 2000 but built a little boost This dont make sense to me
can my msd be bad?
Do i need a new tune now that i have the c4?
any ideas?
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post #4 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 07:05 PM
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Plugs may need to be gapped a little tighter. I had to gap mine at like 28 thousands. Also check for vacuum leaks. With having such little vacuum at idle I think you may have a leak.

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post #5 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:00 PM
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^^^X2. Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Spray carb cleaner around the intake and it will rev up when it hits the leak.
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post #6 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:03 PM
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Yep! Boost will always find the weakest link! Usually will find the one vacuum line you didn't put a zip tie on.

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post #7 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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checked vacume lines appear to be fine! maybe ill buy new and replace all just to be safe. here is a video of the idle and then i push in my clutch (havent bypassed that switch yet) and it idles better and gets more vac
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post #8 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:24 PM
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Isn't there a switch to cut the cruise off when you press the clutch that is vacuum operated?

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post #9 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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I dont know, Im pretty sure the only vac lines i have are from intake to fpr and intake to brake booster, and throttle body (t- to vac gauge)to wastegate to blow off valve. And all are zip tied
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post #10 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:46 PM
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Do you have an exhaust leak...or an intake leak whats that loud ticking noise?


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post #11 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah the frickin copper gasket i just put in is leaking lol im swaping it out tomorrow and sending them back.. but before i made that mistake it had the same idle problem
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post #12 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by execlon View Post
Yeah the frickin copper gasket i just put in is leaking lol im swaping it out tomorrow and sending them back.. but before i made that mistake it had the same idle problem
Oh ok...yeah the shop that installed mine used copper RTV high temp no leaks...Im glad they dont I hate them....

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post #13 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 09:58 PM
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The title of you thread is misleading. All of you problems appear to be related to the installation and not related or attributed to your On3 turbo kit.

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post #14 of 48 Old 09-20-2012, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmyth View Post
The title of you thread is misleading. All of you problems appear to be related to the installation and not related or attributed to your On3 turbo kit.
Well what should i name it?
i thought a oil leak ontop of my on3 turbo i covered well with "on3 oil leak"
and i assumed other people with on3 would have the same leak
and im having a misfire i thought "misfire" was sufficient
i guess i forgot to put the vac prob in the title too
i dont want to mislead just want to figure out this problem
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post #15 of 48 Old 09-21-2012, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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So today i disconnected my turbo vacuum lines and connected my gauge to the side of the throttle body and it got 3 vac so my turbo lines are out of the problem. I took off my iac and it looked dirty can that cause vac loss and will adjusting my tb open to much would that cause loss? like the butterfly open to far
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post #16 of 48 Old 09-21-2012, 10:40 PM
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I wil address your idle fluctuation. The t5 trans has a clutch switch and neutral safety switch to tell the a9l computer when it is in neutral or drive. The computer switches from idle strategy to drive strategy depending on the two mentioned switch positions. If you have the neutral safety switch diconnected when switching over to the c4 then the computer is going to adjust the idle air and timing for drive strategy because it has no way of knowing you have the c4 in park or neutral. When you push in the clutch the computer see that switch change and changes to neutral idle strategy. Make sense? Do you have a neutral safery switch on the c4?

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post #17 of 48 Old 09-22-2012, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Yes that makes sense.
no neutral safety on the c4. Under the car only thing hooked to c4 is speedo cable and the plug right by it.

Would a tune be able to fix/change those? or should i just try and bypass them
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post #18 of 48 Old 09-22-2012, 12:48 PM
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That low vacuum at idle would worry me.....just me though. What cam?

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post #19 of 48 Old 09-22-2012, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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F cam, I just got my new iac in the mail. I resealed all the upper intake im going to slap it all together and bypass the netural saftey switch under the car and see how it goes.
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post #20 of 48 Old 09-22-2012, 05:10 PM
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you have to have a leaky intake or something, maybe blew the lower intake gasket, etc. 3 vacuum isnt good even for an f cam. that's also why it's down on power... it's lean

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post #21 of 48 Old 09-22-2012, 07:24 PM
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My fcam with an on3 kit made -14 vac. If you the new gaskets doesn't help you might have hurt the car. If it's a stock block car a two step can be hard on it.
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post #22 of 48 Old 09-22-2012, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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so today i did the reset iac and idle.. KOEO checked tps volts was 1.14 set to .80.. and at wot it was 4.74... well while doing this i noticed on drivers side between the front 2 headers oil was bubbling around the gasket on the header. But its also under my breather wich was smoking a little (also sounded like exhaust leak on that side but gasket looked good). So i will have to do a compression test and see whats up hopefully it was just from my breather. Was to hot to pull plug will check it out tomorrow.

But with playin with iac,tps,idle screw its now at 7-8 vac but running rich
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post #23 of 48 Old 09-23-2012, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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So checked my drivers side compression going from front to back 115 next one header in the way then 125,125. My oil smells like gas but car is running rich. My coolant looks to be good. a little dirty in the overflow but not bad. Oil still appears to be bubbling out of my header gasket but car is not smoking.
048 - YouTube



any ideas?
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post #24 of 48 Old 09-23-2012, 06:42 PM
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Are you sure the oil is not coming from the valve cover? If its coming out of the exhaust port you have engine problems.

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post #25 of 48 Old 09-23-2012, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Pretty sure, The valve cover seems dry and dont really see any oil running down the side. I read that sometimes moisture sweats out and appears to be oil because of the carbon in the gasket but im not sure i believe that. But then again how does oil come out of the top of the exhaust port when going down the exhaust is the path of least resistance.

This car is driving me nuts

oct 1st i have appt to take car in to be re-tuned and they said they should be able to figure out whats wrong when its all hooked up.
But with them charging $180hr i would like to chase down the problem myself.

Car is idling good (but rich)
Oil is not milky (but smells of gas)
Only sound i hear is drivers side exhaust leak. (ordered another header gasket)
Drivers side breather sometimes has some light smoke come out.
Anti freeze is good doesnt look discolored little dirty in overflow
Only thing that looks bad on gauges is the vacuum 5-7 and Rich
and last time i had it on road it had a miss underload
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post #26 of 48 Old 09-23-2012, 07:19 PM
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My money is still on a vacuum leak. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake?
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post #27 of 48 Old 09-23-2012, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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I have not sprayed around the intake. But i did take off and reseal it all. I heard with intake leaks its unregistered air and causes your car to run lean. But i will get some cleaner and spray. Would brake cleaner work?
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post #28 of 48 Old 09-23-2012, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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I just went out and pluged the brake booster hose just to check it stayed the same mayb a little more vac added. Then i started spraying my lower intake with starting fluid no results.

Can i blow a head gasket and not smoke out the exhaust? I did hear some bubbling in my radiator. and the one cylinder i suspect is the one i cant fit my compression fitting on
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post #29 of 48 Old 09-23-2012, 09:22 PM
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You can buy a kit from auto zone to check for exhaust gasses in the coolant.

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post #30 of 48 Old 09-24-2012, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffledfeathers View Post
You can buy a kit from auto zone to check for exhaust gasses in the coolant.

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Went and got the "block test" and fluid. My results were not as clear as i would of liked. They said the fluid would turn yellow but mine just seem to lighten up. I did it 3x with car at full heat with 2-3inch of fluid out of radiator and i did it once with it full and out of overflow some people said try that way.

Left the blue is the fluid, Right is after 2-3min of pumping radiator air threw it.


also another video of my mysterious leak from top of header gasket. (header gasket on that side still leaking gasket ordered)
strange moisture - YouTube
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post #31 of 48 Old 09-24-2012, 05:47 PM
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Do you have air bubbles in the radiator with the car running? If so pull the belt off and look again with it running. If the bubbles are still there then you have a head gasket problem.

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post #32 of 48 Old 09-24-2012, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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no bubbles, i have electric water pump
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post #33 of 48 Old 09-24-2012, 06:15 PM
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Oh ok. Never mind about the belt trick

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post #34 of 48 Old 09-24-2012, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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So decided to take the heads off well alteast 1 so far the side i suspect. The gasket appeared to be ok. The lower bolt closest to drivers seat was not as tight as the others and had oil leaking around or near it.

So when you take off your heads does part of the gaskets normaly stick to it?



how do they look?
the two pistons closest to driver look clean compared to others.
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post #35 of 48 Old 09-25-2012, 05:58 PM
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from what i see that head gasket looked fine

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