Ceramic coating vs wrap on turbo piping - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Ceramic coating vs wrap on turbo piping

Thinking of ordering an On3 front facing kit for my 2V after this tax season. I happen to be close to a very good powder/ceramic coater who charges a pretty reasonable price for the quality of work they do. I had a set of crudded up MAC longtubes brought back to basically new by these guys. Blasted the headers and then coated them inside/out and they looked new and still looked new years later when I sold the car.

Is it going to be worth it/effective to do this to the headers/hotside/maybe coldside or is it better to just wrap the pipes? Car will not be driven in the rain at all unless I get caught in it and is garage kept.


-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #2 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 10:50 AM
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Id coat all the hot side parts


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post #3 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 01:21 PM
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100% coat them over wrapping i wish i did! you could just wrap the down pipe though

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post #4 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 01:22 PM
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Coat the hotside......

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post #5 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, was what I was probably going to do anyway. Going to coat the coldside too, at least powdercoat for anti corrosion reasons but iirc the ceramic price is not much more so I might just go all out and ceramic it too. Obviously will not do the intercooler...

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 01:58 PM
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Don't need to coat the cold side, if you want to keep heat out of the cold side piping use reflective tape.

305/333 WHP/WTQ with CMS Stage II Cams
440/552 WHP/WTQ on Nitrous
7.86, @ 89.1mph, 1.61 60 foot, on Motor
7.15, @ 98.8mph, 1.55 60 foot, on Spray
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 05:10 PM
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+1 for coating the hotside. I also wrapped the up and down pipe in the engine bay on top of that.

07 Grabber Orange GT Prem/Vert/6060/3.55
S&H Twin turbo kit, 6262 oil-less Comp turbos
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post #8 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 06:34 PM
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coat and wrap

I am on3 dealer. message me for some killer deals
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post #9 of 17 Old 08-06-2012, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightblade View Post
+1 for coating the hotside. I also wrapped the up and down pipe in the engine bay on top of that.
Making sure I read this right, but you coating the hot parts and wrapped it?

wrapping plus ceramic coating is not needed. doing both with trap in all the heat, and thus cause the parts to breakdown from with in.

It supposed to be one or the other.

But if it works for you..great

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post #10 of 17 Old 08-07-2012, 07:15 AM
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Yup coated all hot piping and wrapped up and down pipe. Cause what parts to break within?The piping? lol My piping is 16 gauge 304 stainless steel. Heat goes out the exhuast vice into my engine bay just the way I like it. Also spools around 500 rpms faster.


07 Grabber Orange GT Prem/Vert/6060/3.55
S&H Twin turbo kit, 6262 oil-less Comp turbos
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post #11 of 17 Old 08-07-2012, 08:44 AM
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Lol

Yeah the piping will breakdown from within. I hope you dont think the 304 stainless is the best piping out there cause its not. You'll void whatever warranty that comes with hotside piping if its wrapped. Must be a reason!

I deal with this all the time ( ceramic coating, etc....)

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post #12 of 17 Old 08-07-2012, 10:34 AM
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Its custom piping coated inside and out, ss is surely better than mild steel or aluminized steel for this application. Im sorry but doing ceramic coating and heat wrap is a very common practice, it isnt going to break ss piping. If my piping breaks 20 years from now I will let you know.... lol.

07 Grabber Orange GT Prem/Vert/6060/3.55
S&H Twin turbo kit, 6262 oil-less Comp turbos
9:1 compression 281, turbo cams, e85
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Last edited by lightblade; 08-07-2012 at 10:40 AM.
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post #13 of 17 Old 08-07-2012, 10:18 PM
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read this thread fully and then make a decision about having what your thinking about ordering coated. https://forums.corral.net/forums/turb...-cracking.html you dont want to throw good money after bad. not bashing any company here, but learn how to make your hotside survive mechanical stress (ie: cracking) before coating it with expensive ceramic, etc.... just trying to help out

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post #14 of 17 Old 08-07-2012, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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They do have a bracket on their 2nd gen kits that is supposed to take the weight off the turbo. Or go with a 1st gen kit that is cheaper and would use the FRPP shorties I currently have installed but that is so much more piping and unnecessary clutter...

Keep going in different directions on what and how to do my next build but every time I think of going 4V/Terminator swap I get a headache from all the little parts to find and how fast it adds up etc...

And I have researched the On3 stuff and looked at plenty of threads from ppl who have them good and bad. To me it seems like if one inspects the stuff when it comes and cleans up anything that looks suspect and uses the 2V bracket properly... I know you get what you pay for but it really is just a bunch of pipes. And there are other hotside makers too out there I am looking at that charge a similar price. A coldside is easy enough to piece together from ebay parts and will last just fine.

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.

Last edited by SilverSmith82; 08-08-2012 at 12:53 AM.
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post #15 of 17 Old 08-07-2012, 11:24 PM
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If you coat the hotside absolutely do not wrap it. Wrap is nothing more than a sponge wrapped around your hotside soaking up any moisture it can and causing issues. I don't care what anyone else tells you but take it from someone who works with metals from plain old carbon steel to some of the most expensive alloys aeee
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post #16 of 17 Old 08-08-2012, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I am not going to ever coat and wrap, just seeing if anyone is running wrap without problems. Like I said car NEVER sees rain or any sort of inclement weather. I don't even drive it if there are puddles even if it is a perfect day out.

But yeah I'm going to have whatever I get coated even if I do wind up going supercharger for some reason I'll coat the longtubes like I did on my 5.0 Cobra.

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #17 of 17 Old 08-08-2012, 06:53 PM
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Only time I've seen the piping or headers crack is when the weight of the piping or turbo is not supported and too many connections are welded, vice clamped or vband'd which allows some flex, or no flex connections on crossover etc.( stiffer motor mounts help relieve stress on the piping as well so dont install support brackets to the frame, rather to the engine itsself so the piping can move with the engine flex) Fiberglass header wrap when installed properly is ment to let some heat out, so the most common issue over time would be overlapping too much or double wrapping etc. And of course you dont want it to get wet, so the lower piping under the car by the k-member I left unwrapped and just wrapped the piping coming up to the turbo between the timing cover and fan shroud and the downpipe since its real close to the alternator(as this heat is a common killer of alternators on turbo cars). I have Zero issues and after prolonged driving the wrapped piping in the engine bay is cool enough to touch and I have no over heating. so my take on it: ceramic coat everything inside and out and wrap areas that are closet to things that you dont want overheating such as wiring, ac compressor, alternator etc. I take my turbo out every few years to have it serviced and redo the up and down pipe wrap at the same time.

07 Grabber Orange GT Prem/Vert/6060/3.55
S&H Twin turbo kit, 6262 oil-less Comp turbos
9:1 compression 281, turbo cams, e85
[email protected],[email protected]

Last edited by lightblade; 08-08-2012 at 06:59 PM.
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