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post #1 of 35 Old 07-31-2012, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Boost fluctuating a lot?



Any ideas?

Ive checked the obvious things.

No exhaust side leaks

Pressure tested the cold side, no leaks.

The boost is jumpy even on the way up so I dont think its the waste gate.

Anyway having a cam with a big overlap could do this?

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post #2 of 35 Old 07-31-2012, 03:13 PM
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is the waste gate line hooked up to the snail of the turbo?

do you have a manual boost control? if so giving it 1/4-1/2 turn up or down can smooth it sometimes or buy a good one

waste gate could be too small. bigger the waste gate the easier time it has controlling low boost!

just theory's i dont know anything else about your set up just trying to help with throwing ideas out there


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post #3 of 35 Old 07-31-2012, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by g3mustang View Post
is the waste gate line hooked up to the snail of the turbo?

do you have a manual boost control? if so giving it 1/4-1/2 turn up or down can smooth it sometimes or buy a good one

waste gate could be too small. bigger the waste gate the easier time it has controlling low boost!

just theory's i dont know anything else about your set up just trying to help with throwing ideas out there

Its tapped right to the compressor, I have an eboost EBC.

Wastegate is 46mm precision with a 67mm turbo so should be more than enough.

Setup is a 4.6 2v, ported PI heads, Eddy manifold, gay blower cams

built 4r70w, multi disc locking converter
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post #4 of 35 Old 07-31-2012, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by justinschmidt1 View Post
Its tapped right to the compressor, I have an eboost EBC.

Wastegate is 46mm precision with a 67mm turbo so should be more than enough.

Setup is a 4.6 2v, ported PI heads, Eddy manifold, gay blower cams

built 4r70w, multi disc locking converter
I have read on some Honda Forums that the Precision 46mm does not flow as good as a Tial 44mm. A Tial rep was the one that said this not me, said that the 44mm flows better than the 46mm bc the openings match up better if you have a 44mm flange and a 44mm WG. If you have a 44mm flange and a 46mm WG it creates turbulence and flows less. That was Precision's marketing strategy, to make a bigger mm WG that fits on a 44mm flange so people would think they are getting a better deal/better flow over a 44mm.

Not sure if that's true or just Tial trying to get more business

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post #5 of 35 Old 07-31-2012, 09:08 PM
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I dont know how mine is hooked up i had a shop do it...But my boost is steady everytime to 14 psi...I did see the some silcone on one of the openings on the waste gate...

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post #6 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 12:03 AM
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What size/lb is the WG spring? If your spring is lower than what the electric boost controller is set at, it might be the EBoost pulling and adding PSI to keep it at whatever you have it set at and its the Boost Controller making it have wavy/un even boost. Try running it at what psi the WG spring makes alone and see if its more steady.

Just a thought.

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post #7 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Baznasty Dave View Post
What size/lb is the WG spring? If your spring is lower than what the electric boost controller is set at, it might be the EBoost pulling and adding PSI to keep it at whatever you have it set at and its the Boost Controller making it have wavy/un even boost. Try running it at what psi the WG spring makes alone and see if its more steady.

Just a thought.
The WG spring is a 9 psi spring, that lower line is with the boost controller set at 0.

That doesnt really make much sense to me considering you always run a smaller spring, the boost controller can not go lower than the spring rate.

I cant set my boost to 5 psi with a 9 psi spring, it wont work.
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post #8 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinschmidt1 View Post
The WG spring is a 9 psi spring, that lower line is with the boost controller set at 0.

That doesnt really make much sense to me considering you always run a smaller spring, the boost controller can not go lower than the spring rate.

I cant set my boost to 5 psi with a 9 psi spring, it wont work.
I know you can not set a boost controller lower than the WG spring, and it sounds like you know what i was getting at. That is odd it is so unsteady even on WG spring alone

Goes from 8lb's to almost 11lbs

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post #9 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baznasty Dave View Post
I know you can not set a boost controller lower than the WG spring, and it sounds like you know what i was getting at. That is odd it is so unsteady even on WG spring alone

Goes from 8lb's to almost 11lbs

Yes, exactly.

On WG spring alone it seems to fluctuate between 7.5-10.5 psi up and down a few times.,...3 psi is a pretty big swing.

Im not looking at the controller just cause its wavy on WG alone.

Its kinda wavy before the gate even opens as well.

My tuner mentioned my cams but everyone seems to think thats not possible?

If my cams had a big overlap could that possibly cause this to happen or no?

Last edited by justinschmidt1; 08-01-2012 at 12:18 AM.
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post #10 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 07:18 AM
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I have an eboost2 as well, what is your gate pressure and sensitivity set to? Gate pressure should be 3-4 psi less than target boost, and sensitvity should stay around the 20-21 setting.


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post #11 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 09:29 AM
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put a different spring in your wastegate. May have a bad spring.

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post #12 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Lightblade the issue existed before the controller was there is the problem.

I lowered teh sensitivity to see if it would smooth it out but it didnt help. I think it was set to 5 or so and the GP setting was always 3 psi under where it was set.

I may have to try a different spring although you would think with the controller on there it would eliminate that from happening since the solenoid holds it shut till a certain point anyway.

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post #13 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 01:17 PM
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is this a home made kit or bought??? maybe its the position of the WG?? again just bouncing off ideas

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post #14 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g3mustang View Post
is this a home made kit or bought??? maybe its the position of the WG?? again just bouncing off ideas
Its the FF on3 kit, all the other people running this kits have a normal curve.

Is it possible the turbo could be the issue?
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post #15 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 02:07 PM
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if your 100% positve that you have no boost leaks then i dont see how it could be the turbo! unless its not getting a constant amount of air to it??? like dirty air filter??? if you have a filter on the turbo take it off and see what happens!

are you running straight through muffler??

also i tighten your throttle body to intake bolts i do mine every other week! they like to come undone. try re -torquing your intake

again just bouncing around ideas hope im helping lol

what if converter is slipping taking load of the turbo?

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Last edited by g3mustang; 08-01-2012 at 02:10 PM.
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post #16 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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if your 100% positve that you have no boost leaks then i dont see how it could be the turbo! unless its not getting a constant amount of air to it??? like dirty air filter??? if you have a filter on the turbo take it off and see what happens!

are you running straight through muffler??

also i tighten your throttle body to intake bolts i do mine every other week! they like to come undone. try re -torquing your intake

again just bouncing around ideas hope im helping lol

what if converter is slipping taking load of the turbo?

It was a brand new KN on the thing....I can pull it off but I doubt thats it.

I rigged up the cold side and pressurized it with 20 psi and found no leaks.

The converter is a tank, brand new multi disc.....if it was slipping enough to cause that drop in boost im sure it would be noticeable.


Im stumped here
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post #17 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 03:36 PM
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when you pressurize it is the intake seeing it??

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post #18 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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when you pressurize it is the intake seeing it??
Yes, what I did was buy a 4 inch pvc clamp thing with a pvc cap, drilled a hole and put a quick connect on it for a compressor had that on the end of the turbo so everything was pressurised

Set it to 15-20 psi and plugged it in.
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post #19 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 11:23 PM
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Does that really work with the throttle body closed??

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post #20 of 35 Old 08-01-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Does that really work with the throttle body closed??

Yes, my TB isnt completely closed at idle.
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post #21 of 35 Old 08-02-2012, 10:41 PM
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What turbo are you running?

Have you checked your shaft end play recently? I recently had a wrx come through my shop with symptoms like that and found one of the turbine blades chipped i put a new turbo on it and it went away. Only thing i could find is that the shaft had a bunch of play in it and i think it made contact with the turbine housing but icouldnt measure it running obviously and it wouldnt do it with me pushing the shaft up and down.

I'm not a magazine racer, my car is actually fast.
I also have a Honda civic but, mine has a bigger, uglier driver.
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post #22 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 09:04 AM
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By chance could the car b spinning on the rollers on the dyno
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post #23 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 09:39 AM
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By chance could the car b spinning on the rollers on the dyno
If it was I would think the hp would fluctuate as well

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post #24 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 09:44 AM
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I cant c the top dyno graph
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If it was I would think the hp would fluctuate as well
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post #25 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Heres the full graph, the HP fluctuates a little, but not a lot
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post #26 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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What turbo are you running?

Have you checked your shaft end play recently? I recently had a wrx come through my shop with symptoms like that and found one of the turbine blades chipped i put a new turbo on it and it went away. Only thing i could find is that the shaft had a bunch of play in it and i think it made contact with the turbine housing but icouldnt measure it running obviously and it wouldnt do it with me pushing the shaft up and down.
Its a brand new comp 67mm billet wheel, Ive checked the intake blade an its fine.

Its brand new so im not sure if the exhaust blade could have some how got chopped up....lol

Ive checked shaft play and I guess its normal although im not sure what is normal.

It moves slightly if I put a decent amount of pressure on it.
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post #27 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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By chance could the car b spinning on the rollers on the dyno
Theres no way its spinning on the rollers with only 500 rwhp lol
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post #28 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 10:38 AM
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There is a way just an idea but by HP graph thats not it
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Theres no way its spinning on the rollers with only 500 rwhp lol
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post #29 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 10:42 AM
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What type bov u have
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post #30 of 35 Old 08-03-2012, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Its a tial 50mm
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post #31 of 35 Old 08-04-2012, 12:20 AM
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I doubt its the turbo then. Do you maybe have a restriction in the exhaust before the turbo? Or maybe your wg is fluttering.

I'm not a magazine racer, my car is actually fast.
I also have a Honda civic but, mine has a bigger, uglier driver.
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post #32 of 35 Old 08-21-2012, 12:58 AM
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Only thing I can think of is to pull your wastegate off and take apart and see if the seal has a small hole in it and try a new spring. Other than that check blowoff valve and make sure of the same thing and that you have it adjusted on the tight side not loose meaning the valve is adjust close to closed with vacume with around a 1/4 inch opening. Will keep a tighter seal while under boost. Other than that if no vacume leaks or exhaust leaks I have no idea what could be. The wheel spin on dyno will definitly do it as well, so make sure you didn't spin on the dyno. One other thing is the gear you were in when did the runs. If was in different gears will change the load and change the boost seen. If say in 4th vs 2nd you will see lower boost in 2nd then in 4th due to the lower load on the engine. Just FYI fo you. Good luck with it hope you get it straight.

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post #33 of 35 Old 08-25-2012, 08:12 AM
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Could it be spark breaking down ??

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post #34 of 35 Old 08-25-2012, 09:55 AM
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Could it be spark breaking down ??
Thats not a bad idea. Could be for sure. Will change the load from run to run if spark is being blown out or something on that order. Good suggestion!

Rob
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post #35 of 35 Old 08-25-2012, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think that it....I know what spark blowout feels like and the car runs smooth as can be.

Im putting the stock cams back in the car so we will see if that changes anything
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