Oil Filter Relocation Hose/ Barb setup coming loose? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 29 Old 07-29-2012, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Filter Relocation Hose/ Barb setup coming loose?

Am I the only one that has had issues with the oil lines popping off with this setup?

Its the on3 oil filter relocation kit on a 4.6 2v and ive had both lines pop off on me now.

Its a simple hose and barb connection with a clamp....I did upgrade to larger clamps after they came off but im just wondering if anyone else has had issues with these things flying off?

The damn thing nearly burned my car to the ground the other day....luckily I had an extinguisher.

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post #2 of 29 Old 07-29-2012, 07:39 PM
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Ditch the crappy push on hoses and get some AN braided hose with AN fittings.


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440/552 WHP/WTQ on Nitrous
7.86, @ 89.1mph, 1.61 60 foot, on Motor
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post #3 of 29 Old 07-29-2012, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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I would if it was accessible. I don't even think I can get those stupid ass fittings off with it installed and on the car.

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post #4 of 29 Old 07-30-2012, 07:20 AM
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Happened once, tighten down the clamps and been good for 2 years, I ahve a relocation kit from summit. That being said I have seen guys have it come loose and dump oil everywhere, so istn worth risking the motor either and I will be upgrading to ss lines and an fittings for mine here shortly.

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post #5 of 29 Old 07-30-2012, 01:49 PM
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Man you just dont have any luck do you LOL. I tightend mine down good the first time and havent had a problem yet. I work at a tractor dealer and we build hydraulic hoses. I am thinking about taking them off and builing 2 hoses with swivel ends so I can install them easier. If I get around to it anytime soon Ill let you know how they work out. I know they will be just as good if not better than the an lines because the hydraulic lines are made for extremely high pressure and temps. and the ends are crimped on in a press. where do you have your filter mounted?

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post #6 of 29 Old 07-30-2012, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting, well im not really worried about losing the motor because its obvious when it happens....like 100 foot trail of white smoke. lol

Just not very fun when it happens and obviously want to prevent it from happening.

Ruffled, no man, I swear if anything can go wrong, it will when it comes to this car.

Im surprised the piping hasnt cracked in half yet lol

I will say its probably somewhat my fault for using the wrong clamps...I used these smaller, thinner ones. Seems like the thicker ones work a lot better.

I was just curious if other people had issues or not.

Anyways, ive got my filter mounted on the backside of my bumper support.

I would switch to AN lines if I could get to it.

With the way the stupid ass fittings screw into the adapter piece you cant even get a wrench on it.
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post #7 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 04:19 AM
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I switched to that plate that moroso makes and got rid of the regular adapter and that thread on cap the only thing is you have to switch up your lower radiator hose set-up to a -16 an style but it was the best thing I ever done works great.
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post #8 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Yea, damn that would have been a good idea, it just sucks cause that adapter plate is literally impossible to remove with the motor in the car.

Wish I would have done it before hand.
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post #9 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 01:56 PM
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You can pull the drivers header off and pull it off

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post #10 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinschmidt1 View Post
Yea, damn that would have been a good idea, it just sucks cause that adapter plate is literally impossible to remove with the motor in the car.

Wish I would have done it before hand.
You have to be very patient. Mine was leaking when i installed it the first time, so i actually pulled it and re installed it with it on the car. I have a 03 mach 1, dunno if yours is much different? Either way, took me like 2 hours. Im a very patient person lol, either way faster then pulling your header or any of that non-sense....

As for the hose, yes mine just blew off last week. It blew off at WOT too, luckily i have a oil pressure gauge and the pipe is right below it so the second i saw smoke i let out of it. I went and bought all new clamps and everything seems to be fine.

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post #11 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ruffledfeathers View Post
You can pull the drivers header off and pull it off

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Lol, you say that like its easy to get too.

I really dont know how people get to these bolts. I had a tough time getting to some of those bolts with the motor out of the car with the way the header was designed.

Im not sure I could even get to all the bolts.
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post #12 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 03:16 PM
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I installed mine in the car. But I didn't have a k-member in at the time. Now that everyone has had problems it looks like ill be changing mine out even sooner.

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post #13 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ruffledfeathers View Post
I installed mine in the car. But I didn't have a k-member in at the time. Now that everyone has had problems it looks like ill be changing mine out even sooner.

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Lol, it seems like people are fine when they use nice clamps and crank em down.

Definitely not a good idea to leave them loose at all.
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post #14 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 07:53 PM
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So on the 2v FF kit you can install the headers with the motor out and drop in the motor with the headers on the motor?

305/333 WHP/WTQ with CMS Stage II Cams
440/552 WHP/WTQ on Nitrous
7.86, @ 89.1mph, 1.61 60 foot, on Motor
7.15, @ 98.8mph, 1.55 60 foot, on Spray
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post #15 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 08:13 PM
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So on the 2v FF kit you can install the headers with the motor out and drop in the motor with the headers on the motor?
Yes

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post #16 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 10:57 PM
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i just had a line blow off today...what a mess. i have my filter on the passenger firewall and oil covered the motor and fenders. it also got me and my friend. i just ordered -an fittings and hose ($175)tonight. i guess i was lucky it happened in the driveway.
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post #17 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by spittin cobra View Post
i just had a line blow off today...what a mess. i have my filter on the passenger firewall and oil covered the motor and fenders. it also got me and my friend. i just ordered -an fittings and hose ($175)tonight. i guess i was lucky it happened in the driveway.
Yours blew off the connection by the filter?

Mine blew off the connection right off the motorm

Last edited by justinschmidt1; 07-31-2012 at 11:13 PM.
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post #18 of 29 Old 07-31-2012, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spittin cobra View Post
i just had a line blow off today...what a mess. i have my filter on the passenger firewall and oil covered the motor and fenders. it also got me and my friend. i just ordered -an fittings and hose ($175)tonight. i guess i was lucky it happened in the driveway.
Dang, $175 on fittings and lines? I spent that much or less on my entire return style fuel system.




Is there a lot of fittings for the relocation or hard to find/expensive fittings? Seems like it would be 6-10 fittings and about $30-$40 in hose.

305/333 WHP/WTQ with CMS Stage II Cams
440/552 WHP/WTQ on Nitrous
7.86, @ 89.1mph, 1.61 60 foot, on Motor
7.15, @ 98.8mph, 1.55 60 foot, on Spray
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post #19 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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You spent 175 on a return style fuel system?

jeez, mine was 1300~, I need to shop where you shop!!!

####, my regulator was 175.

I dk what he bought but I know random fittings can be crazy expensive, I think I spend 200 dollars on random fittings and lines to get my eddy victor manifold to work with the stock fuel system lines.
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post #20 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinschmidt1 View Post
You spent 175 on a return style fuel system?

jeez, mine was 1300~, I need to shop where you shop!!!

####, my regulator was 175.

I dk what he bought but I know random fittings can be crazy expensive, I think I spend 200 dollars on random fittings and lines to get my eddy victor manifold to work with the stock fuel system lines.
No just fittings and lines i ment, my setup was $1,300 pieced together myself.

305/333 WHP/WTQ with CMS Stage II Cams
440/552 WHP/WTQ on Nitrous
7.86, @ 89.1mph, 1.61 60 foot, on Motor
7.15, @ 98.8mph, 1.55 60 foot, on Spray
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post #21 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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No just fittings and lines i ment, my setup was $1,300 pieced together myself.
haha, Im just messing with ya.

Damn, I really dont feel like digging into that stupid ass filter relocation setup.

Guess im gonna see how this holds....if it comes off again im gonna have to make some moves.
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post #22 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 12:28 AM
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To be fair to ON3 it's not really bad design to use that type of setup as most oil relocation kits use rubber hose with clamps or just "pushlock" hose
Summit Racing SUM-G4985-1 - Summit Racing® Oil Filter Relocation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Trans-Dapt Performance Products 1113 - Trans-Dapt Performance Remote Oil Filter Relocation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Trans-Dapt Performance Products 1122 - Trans-Dapt Performance Remote Oil Filter Relocation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Advance Adapters 716084 - Advance Adapters Oil Filter Relocation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Hayden Automotive 291 - Hayden Oil Filter Relocation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Mr. Gasket 7682 - Mr. Gasket Remote Oil Filter Relocation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

BUT i would never use anything but AN hose and fittings or hydraulic lines for oil lines. I had the push lock hose going from my block to a Autometer oil pressure sensor and when the hose got hot it got weak and soft, then oil blew out out it in between the fitting and the inside of the hole. Almost blew up mt car bc of it, swapped to AN hose and fittings and its been gravy for 3 years now.

305/333 WHP/WTQ with CMS Stage II Cams
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7.15, @ 98.8mph, 1.55 60 foot, on Spray
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post #23 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Ya...seems like it works, just gotta make sure the clamps are tight and probably should make sure the hose isn't covered in oil when you put it on haha.

Hell, I think MMs basic kit uses barbed hose.

I wonder if Anyone makes some sort of sealant or something that would help bond/ seal the tube to the metal.
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post #24 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 07:16 AM
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6 feet of 10 an ss hose, 4 npt to 10an adaptors and 4 10an hose ends. $60. Worthwhile upgrade imho. If a line goes and isntantly starves the engine for oil, if you under load or getting on it and dont shut it down right away you very easily can hurt the engine/valvetrain. Not to mention potentialy casue an accident spraying oil all over the highway etc. My rubber hose/barb setup has been fine for 2 years, but at this point seems dumb not to upgrade, the hose is going to deteriate overtime and is a timebomb really the way I see it.

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post #25 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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I agree, just as ive mentioned before, my issue is actually getting to the stuff.

I might be able to get a vice grip in there to get the stupid barb fittings off....if I can get them off I should be able to do the AN fittings and lines pretty easily.

The way they are designed I cant even get a wrench on them
Anyone know what size NPT I need?

1/2, 3/8?

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post #26 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 11:28 AM
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Yes mine were 2 1/2" npt and 2 3/8" npt.

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post #27 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 11:31 AM
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I don't think its on3 fault either. The filter relocate kit I got from them was a jegs brand in a jegs box lol.

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post #28 of 29 Old 08-01-2012, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think its on3 fault either. The filter relocate kit I got from them was a jegs brand in a jegs box lol.

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lol, im not saying its on3s fault, seems like a lot of kits use this design.

I just dont like it and dont feel like worrying about my oil lines coming off everytime I drive the car.

Im about to put some gorilla glue on the end of that hose lol
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post #29 of 29 Old 08-02-2012, 09:52 PM
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Yup mine poped out and caught on fire but put out fast. Now I have an fittings and hose.
It's -10 an and hose with Moroso Oil Filter Sandwich Adapters , oil filter side adapter is on3.


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