On3 Exhaust Issues - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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On3 Exhaust Issues

I have the SN95 kit on my cobra. Every other vband seals except the driver side crossover tube.... I have tried a new vband, I have let the copper rtv sit for 24 hours, I have started it let it run and warm up and retighten it. No matter what I do after 2 blocks of driving that side blows out and will not seal. I do not know what to do, it is screwing me over because I cannot take it back in to get tuned until I fix it.

Any ideas?

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post #2 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 09:55 PM
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is it blowing in the same spot each time? if so see if there's some kind of imperfection in the rings that you can massage or grind or something to get it to mate up better otherwise, i'd try and get a sheet of thin deadsoft aluminum or something and see if that seals it up.

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post #3 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 09:59 PM
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I'm sure you have the 302 kit. You may have to cut the flanges and change the angle / reweld. If they don't mate up perfect the V-band won't cinch them together. I tried that This is the first I have heard of a 302 kit with this problem though... Is everything stock?

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post #4 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well yes everything is in the stock location. So should I cut the pipe, clamp the vband down, tac the pipe back on, then take it off and weld it? I even clamped the vband down first before i tightened the center part and it still leaks.

The issue is I cannot tell which spot it is leaking because it burns all the rtv off once it leaks.
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post #5 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fivepointeightnate View Post
I'm sure you have the 302 kit. You may have to cut the flanges and change the angle / reweld. If they don't mate up perfect the V-band won't cinch them together. I tried that This is the first I have heard of a 302 kit with this problem though... Is everything stock?
Dang near every kit on here has a leaking v-band problem. His is not the first.

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post #6 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 10:56 PM
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This guy found a solution>>>>>>https://forums.corral.net/forums/turb...found-fix.html

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post #7 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Dang near every kit on here has a leaking v-band problem. His is not the first.
The v-bands cost $7 a piece....what can you expect.... Pisses me off though, cost me a tune. $450 gone. This wasn't my first issue, the flex pipe fell out of the pipe, had to cut a re-weld a new revised one in. The original ones are just pressed in.

If I am going to do that exhaust wrap you sent, I might as weld the pipes together lol. That may be a last resort.
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post #8 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by paxton50mustang View Post
The v-bands cost $7 a piece....what can you expect.... Pisses me off though, cost me a tune. $450 gone. This wasn't my first issue, the flex pipe fell out of the pipe, had to cut a re-weld a new revised one in. The original ones are just pressed in.

If I am going to do that exhaust wrap you sent, I might as weld the pipes together lol. That may be a last resort.

Lol It definetly would'nt leak then!!

Kinda funny you mention the flex pipe. A couple threads down there is another guy having the same problem.

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Last edited by flashman; 06-23-2011 at 11:14 PM.
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post #9 of 25 Old 06-23-2011, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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I cannot understand if so many people are having these problems why they are not fixing them. When I called about my flex pipe, they were like oh yeah we have a revised flex pipe right here....
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post #10 of 25 Old 06-24-2011, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paxton50mustang View Post
Well yes everything is in the stock location. So should I cut the pipe, clamp the vband down, tac the pipe back on, then take it off and weld it? I even clamped the vband down first before i tightened the center part and it still leaks.

The issue is I cannot tell which spot it is leaking because it burns all the rtv off once it leaks.
Yep, I had to cut / clamp the vband down get everything where I wanted and then tacked it. (Actually my brother did all the welding) We wasted 2 days trying to bolt it together at different angles. I have to say it was worth doing it the right way because I have a kit that I can unbolt quickly and not have to worry about it resealing up now. Good thing too cause I am now pulling the cross pipe and hacking it up for a synapse 50mm.


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post #11 of 25 Old 06-24-2011, 12:38 PM
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it has been said before there is a sequence to tightening the v bands. its the same with every kit out there. if you dont do it in order it will not align right and leak.
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post #12 of 25 Old 06-24-2011, 02:09 PM
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I cannot understand if so many people are having these problems why they are not fixing them. When I called about my flex pipe, they were like oh yeah we have a revised flex pipe right here....
Because people still buy them.

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it has been said before there is a sequence to tightening the v bands. its the same with every kit out there. if you dont do it in order it will not align right and leak.
It's not a puzzle. All you have to do is loosely bolt all the v-bands up to line them up. Then you can tighten in any order you want.
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post #13 of 25 Old 06-24-2011, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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it has been said before there is a sequence to tightening the v bands. its the same with every kit out there. if you dont do it in order it will not align right and leak.
What is the magic sequence? I can understand that for the down pipe. But the crossover pipe.... I tried every way, went through a whole tube of rtv.
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post #14 of 25 Old 06-24-2011, 08:37 PM
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8. You now should have everything out of the way and ready for the header/turbo (passenger side) setup to be bolted on the car. Install the o2 sensor in the header at this time as well because once the header goes on, it will make it very tough to access it (Don’t forget to plug it in!). We supply you new header bolts but due to the way the primaries off the flange route, you will end up having to run a few of the stock header bolts. They will not thread in far but its better to have something there than nothing. Also they can be tricky to get in there and will want to try and get the short header bolts threaded slightly before tightening all the other bolts down. This may sound confusing but once you have the header on the car, it will become very clear to you. You may consider to test fit the header alone before the turbo is bolted to it so you know the way the bolts will work. REMEMBER, either run the RTV for the gasket or buy the gasket of your preference before bolting on

9. Now you can go to the driver side and install that header using the same method. Depending on the way your clutch cable, power steering, etc lines are routed, you will need to strap them with zip ties or fasten them far enough away so they are not effected by the heat. The same package that contained the headers will have 2 pipes w/ 1 flex joint in the one. This is your crossover section and you can now use the 3” v band clamp and loosely fasten the crossover pipe with the flex joint in it to the driver side header. To attach the other crossover pipe, we normally start and attach it at the passenger side turbo header first at the v band. The clamp used at this is a 2 ¬Ĺ” v band clamp and you may have to grind back a little material in order to get enough room to get the nut started. The little cap will pull off and you can then grind the material a little then replace the cap. Now you can use the (2) 12mm bolts and flange nuts to fasten the shorter crossover pipe to the flex joint side. Once everything is bolted together loosely, you can now go back and tighten the rest of the hardware down.
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post #15 of 25 Old 06-24-2011, 10:41 PM
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You should be able to eyeball how well the flanges mate with the clamp off.

You can also use a good straight edge to check flatness of the v-band flanges. It has to be pretty close to dead flat.

But as others mentioned, a $7 part is a $7 part. There are no secrets in turbo kits, you get what you pay for.

The suggestions from others to cut and tack it while clamped will work. I would just buy a real v-band kit before you put that work into it.

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post #16 of 25 Old 06-24-2011, 10:50 PM
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man imo that tigerpatch stuff is junk

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post #17 of 25 Old 06-24-2011, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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You should be able to eyeball how well the flanges mate with the clamp off.

You can also use a good straight edge to check flatness of the v-band flanges. It has to be pretty close to dead flat.

But as others mentioned, a $7 part is a $7 part. There are no secrets in turbo kits, you get what you pay for.

The suggestions from others to cut and tack it while clamped will work. I would just buy a real v-band kit before you put that work into it.
I would have bought better clamps, but every other joint sealed fine. So this is telling me it is something else. Hopefully I will have some time this next week to weld it, we'll have to see what happens.
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post #18 of 25 Old 06-25-2011, 01:21 AM
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That flange is probably warped. I touched all mine up on a belt sander before I installed them.

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post #19 of 25 Old 06-25-2011, 06:55 AM
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man imo that tigerpatch stuff is junk
I didn't think that suggestion was worth a response. Soon we will see duct tape holding together cold side pipes.

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post #20 of 25 Old 06-25-2011, 04:31 PM
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man imo that tigerpatch stuff is junk
Yes it is junk and no way to fix a leaking v-band. I was being sarcastic.

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post #21 of 25 Old 06-26-2011, 11:53 AM
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Yes it is junk and no way to fix a leaking v-band. I was being sarcastic.
Sorry man. With some of the stuff that gets suggested I have lost my ability to separate sarcasm from stupidity. :-)

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post #22 of 25 Old 06-26-2011, 11:05 PM
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chop that stuff off and install some Racepartsolutions V-band kits

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post #23 of 25 Old 06-30-2011, 12:27 AM
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Sorry man. With some of the stuff that gets suggested I have lost my ability to separate sarcasm from stupidity. :-)




well tiger patch did work for about a month. it did work better than the rtv. depending on the gap.


i wouldn't call it stupidly, its more like resourceful, the point is i tried, with what resources i had at the time. but tiger patch did get job done for a short period of time.

but to the op. best thing to do is cut a relieve cut in the pipe. bend it and work it til it lines up perfect. then weld the gap shut. thats what i did solved the issue.

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post #24 of 25 Old 07-10-2011, 09:53 PM
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i believe the problem lies more in the v band clamp gets tight on the pipe before it actually clamps the flange. On the SN95 kit i installed both crossover flanges leaked. You could tighten the hell out of the clamp and still twist the crossover pipe. Kind of hard to describe but thats what I encountered.

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post #25 of 25 Old 07-10-2011, 09:59 PM
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Seems the turbo section is saturated with ON3 issues these days

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