Turbo seal bad? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 26 Old 04-23-2011, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Turbo seal bad?

I have been installing a turbo kit from hell on a buddies car for the past 2 weeks in my spare time. It was a new kit purchased from the manufacturer about 3 weeks ago. I have had hardly anything fit without modifying. I finally got done with the install and the car is smoking a good bit at idle and you cannot see behind the car under a normal cruise down the road. When you get on it a little, it fills the car with smoke from having the cutout open on the downpipe. The car is all original 94 with only 90k miles and had no issues prior to the install. Does this mean the turbo seal is bad and letting oil in the downpipe? It smells like hot oil the whole time it is running in and around the car. I dont see oil at the end of the exhaust, but have not pulled the downpipe back off yet as it was hot and I am sick of looking at this car due to the crappy fit of the kit. Should I see oil in the exhaust housing when I pull the downpipe if the seal is bad? I want to puke just thinking about having to work on it any more. Any help is appreciated.

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post #2 of 26 Old 04-23-2011, 09:56 PM
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Prolly not the seals fault, prolly dont have the drain set up properly, might need a restrictor in the oil line to the turbo also


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post #3 of 26 Old 04-23-2011, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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I used the supplied 3 or 4an feed line and have it going in the top. I didnt use the supplied rubber drain line. I used 8an braided line. The feed is straight up and the return straight down as they suggested. This thing started smoking after like 30 seconds of running. Did i clock it wrong?
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post #4 of 26 Old 04-23-2011, 10:18 PM
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I used the supplied 3 or 4an feed line and have it going in the top. I didnt use the supplied rubber drain line. I used 8an braided line. The feed is straight up and the return straight down as they suggested. This thing started smoking after like 30 seconds of running. Did i clock it wrong?
Its most likely clocked properly but the drain hose CANNOT have any bends upward, it has to be a straight through shot to the drain.. I mean if you see even a slight bend its no good.

You might still have to put a reducer in the line, the turbos dont require alot of oil and most times the -4 feed line is too much.

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post #5 of 26 Old 04-23-2011, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks. I guess i will call them monday and see what to do. Is 8an drain too small?
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post #6 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 12:03 AM
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i use a 3/4 line on a on3 76mm which is probly over kill but can anything ever be to big
the feed line must be level to oil properly and drain.depending on your oil pressure you
may need a restrictor.did you prime the turbo properly before starting?

Last edited by allenpeake; 04-24-2011 at 12:05 AM.
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post #7 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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I just rechecked the angles on everything and the lines look as straight as possible and the drain line is a 10an. I dont know why I was thinking 8an. How does 10an compare in size to 3/4 drain line? 0I will pull the downpipe later to see if I find oil in it. If it has leaked, I am assuming it will now need new seals? On the priming, we pulled the coil wire and turned it over for about 30-40 seconds before starting it up. That was all I could find to prime it online doing google searches.
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post #8 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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also, it has stock oil pressure. It is a 100% stock longblock with the performer rpm II intake, 70mm throttle body, aeromotive regulator, 42lb injectors and pmass meter.
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post #9 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 12:14 PM
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Turbo seals may be bad but I would put a restrictor in line first.

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post #10 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Can u direct me towards restrictor info or links on doing it please?
Thanks for helping also, Billy

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post #11 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 03:30 PM
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Most people use a nitrous jet, like. 060

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post #12 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I modified the fitting on the oil feed and used a .064 nitrous jet I had here. I triple checked the oil drain line for straightness, replaced the pcv and hose and remove the inline check valve we had in the pcv hose. I also pulled the downpipe and saw some soot buildup, but no oil. Cranked it up and same issue. I let it run for a while, drove it very easy because it was smoking and had the dipstick blow out of the tube. It blew oil everywhere. It never got into boost and did this. It is still smoking out of the exhaust a good bit at idle also. Would there be any oil in the discharge tube if the seal was bad? I dont know where to go from here.

Last edited by 9389coupe; 04-24-2011 at 06:00 PM.
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post #13 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 07:11 PM
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Soinds like your pcv is setup improperly but dont think that is your problem here, what turbo do u have and does it have a warranty?

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post #14 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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On3 70mm turbo and he paid extra for a year warranty. I saw on the box today that you have to register it within 5 days of recieving it or the warranty is void. I dont know if he did that or not. I cannot get him on the phone today. The instructions were missing and they emailed me some "basic" overview instructions with no pics and it never mentioned anything other than how to bolt the kit together. No additional steps were referenced. Probably the worst instructions I have ever seen on anything.

On another note, how is the pcv supposed to be setup? I had it off the back of the intake like stock, but with a check valve in line to help the pcv not let boost into the crankcase. I now just have it back like stock with no check valve and a new pcv.
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post #15 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 08:14 PM
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On3 70mm turbo and he paid extra for a year warranty. I saw on the box today that you have to register it within 5 days of recieving it or the warranty is void. I dont know if he did that or not. I cannot get him on the phone today. The instructions were missing and they emailed me some "basic" overview instructions with no pics and it never mentioned anything other than how to bolt the kit together. No additional steps were referenced. Probably the worst instructions I have ever seen on anything.

On another note, how is the pcv supposed to be setup? I had it off the back of the intake like stock, but with a check valve in line to help the pcv not let boost into the crankcase. I now just have it back like stock with no check valve and a new pcv.
no check valve with a pcv is exactly what you dont want.. I am personally a fan of deleting the pcv all together and putting a catch can on, however if you are deadset on the PCV you need to make sure there is a check valve and the line from the TB to the valve cover is taken off and plugged.
Blowing the dipstick tube out is an result of having no crankcase vent on a boosted engine, a catch can will fix the problem and imo should go on with everyone turbo/blower install.

As far as the turbo is concerned I dont know alot about the On3 Turbos but I know they arent the highest of quality, I would consider trying to swap it out.
If you have a restrictor inline and a correct drain line and your still blowing oil into the DP than the turbo has failed imo.

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Last edited by Rich G; 04-24-2011 at 08:19 PM.
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post #16 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 08:22 PM
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It blowing the dipstick out is a good sign that it needs open breathers.

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post #17 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 08:41 PM
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It blowing the dipstick out is a good sign that it needs open breathers.
u may being blowing oil pass the piston rings or valve guides try to let some pressure out and maybe the smoke will go away may not be your turbo if u are blowing the dipstick out

Last edited by allenpeake; 04-24-2011 at 08:43 PM.
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post #18 of 26 Old 04-24-2011, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
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It blowing the dipstick out is a good sign that it needs open breathers.
x2 on that....

pcv is probably putting pressure on the crankcase.
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post #19 of 26 Old 04-25-2011, 05:48 PM
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I blew the dipstick out on my motor on spray. I put a fitting in each valve cover with a filter on them and problem went away. I have since put a catch can on. Does he have one of those crank case evac kits on the car. Those will blow exhaust back into the engine if there are no check valves too
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post #20 of 26 Old 04-25-2011, 05:55 PM
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Stick a $5.00 breather in the oil fill tube, keep the PCV, If it still smokes you have bigger problems! KMP

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post #21 of 26 Old 04-25-2011, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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I tried everything and still no luck. I took off the filter, the charge pipes and the downpipe today. All i saw was soot in the exhaust housing and a small amount of oil in there around the inlet turbine where the air filter goes. In the pipes going to the intercooler, there is a lot of fresh oil though. If you wipe your hand inside the turbo, it will drip from your fingers. I have spoken with them and hope to get this resolved shortly.
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post #22 of 26 Old 04-26-2011, 04:27 PM
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Should be warranty! Let us know

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post #23 of 26 Old 04-26-2011, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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He said to drive it a while and see if it clears up, but after like 10 minutes of running it kills the plugs. Im gonna call them again tomorrow. Its becoming a pita.
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post #24 of 26 Old 04-27-2011, 01:49 AM
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i wouldnt if u got oil coming out of the cold side of the turbo it could get worse and fail
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post #25 of 26 Old 04-27-2011, 12:18 PM
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On3 70mm turbo and he paid extra for a year warranty. I saw on the box today that you have to register it within 5 days of recieving it or the warranty is void.
NICE LOL


When it kills the plugs are they just rich ? If you move a maf to a small tube it's going to make your car rich as hell, and smoke possibly.
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post #26 of 26 Old 04-28-2011, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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It smells like one of those diesel trucks that run on vegetable oil behind the car and there is oil spots all over the rear bumper by the tailpipes and under the car where the cutout is open on the downpipe. Wierd part is that there is no oil in the exhaust housing or downpipe when you wipe your finger in there, only soot. The car hasnt been cranked in 2 days and still smells like burnt oil from 15 feet away.
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