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post #1 of 40 Old 04-11-2011, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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On 3 Dyno Number's

Just got my car back today and it made 350hp and 460tq on 12psi, stock On3 kit for a 93 Fox bod, i also have a GT-40 Intake ported stock heads a ford racing F cam and ford racing roller rockers. Not to bad i was hoping for more but it should be fun.


93 reef blue ported stock heads f-cam gt40 intake On3 performance 70mm turbo 12psi and a c4 and 3.55 gears 11.22
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post #2 of 40 Old 04-11-2011, 09:28 PM
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Just got my car back today and it made 350hp and 460tq on 12psi, stock On3 kit for a 93 Fox bod, i also have a GT-40 Intake ported stock heads a ford racing F cam and ford racing roller rockers. Not to bad i was hoping for more but it should be fun.
How far did you pull it too and what was your a/f number? I thought it would make more power but still nice to play around with.

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post #3 of 40 Old 04-11-2011, 10:54 PM
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Don't worry about the dyno numbers. to many factors: load, weight, and other things that tuners don't get to specific with. Not to mention you have an auto. Just have fun with it man.
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post #4 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 12:00 AM
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auto numbers are gonna be lower than 5 speed cars. the numbers seem to be about where they should be
what rpm did you pull to?

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post #5 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 12:31 AM
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thats sounds right, upgraded heads probably add 100hp and leave torque same or a touch higher.

Id leave it, it'll lve alot longer and still be a low 11 car.

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post #6 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Its a 5 speed, we took it to 5200 a/f was 11.5

93 reef blue ported stock heads f-cam gt40 intake On3 performance 70mm turbo 12psi and a c4 and 3.55 gears 11.22
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post #7 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 12:12 PM
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11's easy
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post #8 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 01:46 PM
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Take it to the track and get the real numbers, unlike all these inflated dyno sheets I keep seeing.

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post #9 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 01:46 PM
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If you still have stock heads that explains it.
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post #10 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 02:17 PM
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Remember, about 14.6 PSI almost doubles your N/A power (all things being equal). So if your N/A power with your setup is about 280, 12 PSI should be about 350.

As othes have said, I would not get hung up on dyno numbers if you are a drag racer. Only the time matters

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post #11 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Yea I know I was just posting the number, im going to build a short block before I get aftermarket heads

93 reef blue ported stock heads f-cam gt40 intake On3 performance 70mm turbo 12psi and a c4 and 3.55 gears 11.22
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post #12 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 03:19 PM
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Sounds good for pretty much a stock longblock. That's exactly what I want. Put a bad ass suspension in it and go enjoy it.
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post #13 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 03:20 PM
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What do have have as far as head gaskets and studs. Are u concerned about 12 lbs on the e7s?
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post #14 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 03:43 PM
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No disrespect intended but your numbers seem low. I would expect closer to 400 rwhp and 500 tq on your set up. I suppose it could be attributed to many different things including the type of dyno and if you were running drag radials.

I have had two cars with the on3 kit and have been on the dyno with 4 diff combinations. The lowest was a stock 137k shortblock, procrap heads, typhoon intake, stock cam and 4.6psi through mufflers. It made 345rwhp and 385tq with the engine hot. It should have made more but we had a prob blowing out spark at 5k. Turns out is was a bad alternator/week battery.

I am planning on putting another kit on a stock 5.0 w aod soon and will post the numbers for comparison.

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post #15 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 03:46 PM
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It's funny one guy makes 500+ on 5 PSI & 350 on 12PSI.....Gotta love DYNO lies!
..............If it hauls ass for a street car who cares!.............

Late 30's not so fat anymore white guy drivin a Turbo 5.0.....15 years TOO late
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post #16 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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93 reef blue ported stock heads f-cam gt40 intake On3 performance 70mm turbo 12psi and a c4 and 3.55 gears 11.22
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post #17 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 04:54 PM
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Sounds sick and good luck like to see your track numbers.
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post #18 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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93 reef blue ported stock heads f-cam gt40 intake On3 performance 70mm turbo 12psi and a c4 and 3.55 gears 11.22
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post #19 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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93 reef blue ported stock heads f-cam gt40 intake On3 performance 70mm turbo 12psi and a c4 and 3.55 gears 11.22
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post #20 of 40 Old 04-12-2011, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks

93 reef blue ported stock heads f-cam gt40 intake On3 performance 70mm turbo 12psi and a c4 and 3.55 gears 11.22
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post #21 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 02:47 AM
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have fun no matter what people say or think man!! i just busted a head gasket took of the heads today!! fvck!! need some better gasket an studs?

mustang 331 stroker! Edelbroke performers heads f cam holley system max intake 70mm accufab throttle ! ON3 KIT ON PROCESS !! 70MM MASTER POWER .....
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post #22 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 03:59 AM
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It's funny one guy makes 500+ on 5 PSI & 350 on 12PSI.....Gotta love DYNO lies!
..............If it hauls ass for a street car who cares!.............
how can you compare one guy with stock heads and a f cam and a explorer intake. to a built 331 with aluminum heads,cam and a good intake? the built 331 probly makes close to 400 NA befor the turbo and the other guys motor is maybe 240hp NA if hes lucky.

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post #23 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 07:30 AM
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Nice ride man. Quiet until that wastegate opens. Any plans to route that through the exhaust?
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post #24 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 08:10 AM
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Very nice car. Should be reliable for you as well.

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post #25 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 12:48 PM
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LOL, LOVE the cardboard catching air in the one vid matt when it goes to full boost...now drive that thing over here and give me a ride!!!
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post #26 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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have fun no matter what people say or think man!! i just busted a head gasket took of the heads today!! fvck!! need some better gasket an studs?
No thanks man I have o ringed heads and arp studs steady sorry to hear you blew a head gasket

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post #27 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 02:19 PM
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car looks clean and sounds great. track numbers are more fun than dyno numbers
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post #28 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 04:35 PM
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how can you compare one guy with stock heads and a f cam and a explorer intake. to a built 331 with aluminum heads,cam and a good intake? the built 331 probly makes close to 400 NA befor the turbo and the other guys motor is maybe 240hp NA if hes lucky.
Read it again

There are lots of guys making 500+ on stock blocks running deep into the 10's
But yea both cars are Bad Ass!!!

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post #29 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 05:23 PM
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how can you compare one guy with stock heads and a f cam and a explorer intake. to a built 331 with aluminum heads,cam and a good intake? the built 331 probly makes close to 400 NA befor the turbo and the other guys motor is maybe 240hp NA if hes lucky.
I never compared my combo to the OP's. I only offered my combo for informational purposes. I have witnessed 3 bone stock 5.0's with the On3 kit make over 400 rwhp on the dyno at 12 psi through manual trans and 1 with a c4, loose stall and drag radials make 400+ at 16 psi.

My car does not have a built 331 anymore. The 331 made 497 rwhp at 4 psi and cracked the block within 100 miles.

It now has a 137k mile junkyard stock 302 HO shortblock with the stock HO cam, Pro Comp heads, and Typhoon intake. Not exactly an exotic combination.

The car made 338 rwhp and 385 tq at 4.6 psi on the 5th dyno pull with 275/50/15 ET Street drag radials.



Do a search. You can find others here on the corral with On3 Turbos, stock 5.0 long blocks and manual trans cars putting down bigger numbers.

As I mentioned in my post, there are many factors that can skew dyno numbers. The OP's numbers look low. If it were my car I'd be concerned that something was wrong with the tune.

I say take it to the track to get some numbers then enjoy the car. Its got to feel a million times stronger than it did before the turbo and will likely live a long time at those numbers.

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post #30 of 40 Old 04-13-2011, 09:26 PM
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I say take it to the track to get some numbers then enjoy the car. Its got to feel a million times stronger than it did before the turbo and will likely live a long time at those numbers.
I told him that today when he stopped by.......he needs more reassurance!!! we have a private track rental in 2 weeks for mustangs....tell him he needs to run it then and there!!!! .... went for a short short ride with him and it spools up quick and burns through the gears quick...a gear change may be in line for him 3.55's may be a tad much for this one.......but it felt a lot stronger than the s/c combo he had on it..

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post #31 of 40 Old 04-14-2011, 10:38 PM
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People normally think they need head studs.....but it's really about the tune and other factors.
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post #32 of 40 Old 04-14-2011, 10:43 PM
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have fun no matter what people say or think man!! i just busted a head gasket took of the heads today!! fvck!! need some better gasket an studs?
People think they need head studs..........When most of the time the problem comes from other things. Sometimes it's the tune, or how you drive it, or even a slight miscalculation on torque sequence on the head bolts. anyway good luck.
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post #33 of 40 Old 04-15-2011, 01:07 AM
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People normally think they need head studs.....but it's really about the tune and other factors.
yes but when it comes to even and consistent clamping force studs will always win over head bolts and I'd have it no other way on a boosted application and not because I "think" I need them..... and I quote

"During engine assembly or maintenance, a bolt must be installed by torqueing it into place. Due to the head bolt’s design, it has to be rotated into its slot in order to engage the threads and secure it into place. This process creates both twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the cylinders within the engine’s combustion chamber begin accumulating load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.

By contrast, a head stud can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening. A stud can be threaded into a slot up to “finger tightness,” or the degree to which it would be tightened by hand. Afterward, the cylinder head is installed and a nut is torqued into place against the stud. The nut torque provides the clamping force, rather than the torque of the fastener itself, and the rotational force is avoided entirely. Because the stud is torqued from a relaxed state, the pressure from the nut will make it stretch only along the vertical axis without a concurrent twisting load. The result is a more evenly distributed and accurate torque load compared to that of the head bolt. This ultimately translates into higher reliability and a lower chance of head gasket failure."

Last edited by 85gt66; 04-15-2011 at 01:12 AM.
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post #34 of 40 Old 04-15-2011, 01:55 AM
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ARP studs are about $40 more than their head bolts. If you are not willing to spend the extra $40 you deserve to spend your weekend bent over the fender of a 20 year old car changing head gaskets which are $43 for a pair of 9333's. You'll only do it once before you wise up and invest the additional $ for studs.

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post #35 of 40 Old 04-15-2011, 02:01 AM
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People normally think they need head studs.....but it's really about the tune and other factors.

Either you don't have any experience with forced induction small block fords or you own stock in Felpro.

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Last edited by fmyth; 04-15-2011 at 02:08 AM.
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