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post #1 of 98 Old 05-28-2010, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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on 3 turbo build 4v

So i just purchase the on 3 performance turbo kit..... Working on the install right now. was woundering if anyone else has ever gone through the troubles that im going through on a 4v? So far im on my second pipe and already have troubles its almost like the engine should be tilted more to the drivers side... from the engine mount bolt it is seating directly in the center. Instructions from the company wouldve also been nice still working on getting those, beings that im paying to do this in a garage i would like to get this done soon as possible. any advise from more experienced people would be great.


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post #2 of 98 Old 05-28-2010, 12:37 AM
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im hoping to start installing my 4v on3 kit this weekend, i know theres a couple people so far that have completed kits but mostly 2v guys. Ill let you know if i run into any problems or ways to fix it. Good luck with the build

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post #3 of 98 Old 05-28-2010, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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thanx man good luck to you too man word of advise wear long sleeves and gloves when you heat wrap lol that stuff itches btw did your kit include instructions and a turbo support?

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post #4 of 98 Old 05-28-2010, 12:53 AM
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yeah mine came with instructions( more less like a tip guide with suggestions on how to get everything together) and it didnt originally come with the bracket but i called them the day after i received my kit and they sent me one. I have absolutely no idea how its suppose to bolt to anything though??
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post #5 of 98 Old 05-28-2010, 11:19 AM
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When you exhaust wrap i soaked the roll in water it made it easier to wrap ..make sure you pull it tight ..the tighter the better. I used plastic zipties until i was done then went back w/ metal ones.. Also if you run out of metal ones in some spots i used hose clamps which worked out a hell of alot better..

-Get someone to help!! you install the pipes and loosely put on the v-band clamps just enough to hold but still be able to twist the pipes

- For the cold side i followed the directions and fit all the pipes and then mounted my intercooler

-I left all the pipes snug then went back added a small amount of copper rtv and tightened everything up.

The turbo bracket i think might mount using the bolt of the alt bracket and then to the turbo.. Not sure b/c i made my own

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post #6 of 98 Old 05-28-2010, 02:07 PM
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Thanks cj, that's my plan. My brother will be helping me and he has wrapped headers before but I will use your advice sounds good to me. My powdercoater that was coating my pipes didn't get them done today so I may be delayed another week but ima try to get as much done as I can.
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post #7 of 98 Old 05-28-2010, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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When you guys put your k member in where was the drivers side engine mount stud at in reference to the k member centered or more towards the ground and which k member did you use?

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post #8 of 98 Old 05-28-2010, 05:46 PM
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I had the full QA1 front end before buying the on3 kit but ill check how the motor sits in the K when I get home from work tonight
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post #9 of 98 Old 05-30-2010, 06:46 PM
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I looked briefly a little while ago and believe it was about half way down the K member (again it is a QA1) I can get a picture of it if you would like to be more specific. Just let me know

EDIT: Just took a closer look now that everything is bolted up again...the bolt is actually really close to the bottom of the slot in the K. Sorry for the confusion

Last edited by Blk4V00GT; 05-30-2010 at 07:50 PM.
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post #10 of 98 Old 05-31-2010, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanx for clearing that up does anyone have this kit and know if the instructions say you have to alter the k member in any way because driver side to merge pipe the side with the ball and socket flange is def going to take a miracle... Going to try calling on3 on monday not that theyll answer but worth a shot


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post #11 of 98 Old 05-31-2010, 06:45 PM
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Everytime I've called Chad at on3 they have answered after a few rings... Call them bout 30-45 after they open
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post #12 of 98 Old 05-31-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo99svt View Post
Thanx for clearing that up does anyone have this kit and know if the instructions say you have to alter the k member in any way because driver side to merge pipe the side with the ball and socket flange is def going to take a miracle... Going to try calling on3 on monday not that theyll answer but worth a shot
I'm guessing that the 4v hotside is similar to the 2v. The 2v instructions have nothing about modifying the k member.

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post #13 of 98 Old 05-31-2010, 09:26 PM
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I just finished up my 99 dohc on3 kit yesterday and my merge pipe leaks at both 2.5" v-band connections even with rtv ..I also tried using a gasket but it wouldnt allow the v-band to close..I will try later on this week to get it to seal..

Anyone else have trouble w/ the lower radiator hose?

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post #14 of 98 Old 06-01-2010, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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I have heard of the on3 v band have some things yet to be desired i would just make sure there as flat as they can be and let the rtv set up a lil while longer...

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post #15 of 98 Old 06-01-2010, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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What plugs you guys running was thinking most likely ngk 6s but might go 1 step colder sense i wanna do 14psi on a 76mm

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post #16 of 98 Old 06-01-2010, 01:44 PM
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I have Tr6 gapped @ .030... thats what most people including chad recommended

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post #17 of 98 Old 06-01-2010, 11:17 PM
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I made gaskets for those 2 pipes.. No leaks anymore, that rtv was just turning to powder when u boost around.
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post #18 of 98 Old 06-01-2010, 11:26 PM
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Any of yal have ground clearance issuse???

2001 Cobra MMR 950 Storker On3 Turbo 70mm
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post #19 of 98 Old 06-01-2010, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
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I made gaskets for those 2 pipes.. No leaks anymore, that rtv was just turning to powder when u boost around.
funny you should say that i just did the same tonight and it sealed up. I did put a relief cut in one of the pipes it was way off but after that i just left all the pipes attatching to the merge pipe loose, put in a gasket, tightened up both 2.5" clamps and then tighten the rest ..what gasket or material did you use ?

i definatly think those should come with the kit or get rid of the v-band connections there.

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post #20 of 98 Old 06-02-2010, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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either one of you have troubles with the drivers side pipe to merge pipe or is that what your saying you made a relief cut in?

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post #21 of 98 Old 06-02-2010, 08:45 AM
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The horse shoe shaped pipe that routes behind the dvr side rear k-member mount i made a relief cut in 3/4 of the way through , reinstalled it and used the vband to get it where i needed it, tacked it and then welded it .. Did this b/c there was no way it would mount up to the merge pipe correctly..

In my application this could have been b/c i have urethane motor mounts that dropped the engine a little, production differences or the pipe was just crap ..who knows ..now it seals ..

Now starts the fun part of clearenceing everything so that no pipes hit anything..i noticed i need to adjust where it it passes through the bumpsteer kit and sway bar..it hits my steering rack boot..again maybe b/c of my motor being 1/2" lower b/c of the motor mounts.




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post #22 of 98 Old 06-02-2010, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so after cutting peices out of pipe off driver side in order to get it to even get i close which it still would need more for clearance reasons with plans of patching holes closed..... come to find out the pipe needs to be about 2 inches longer and bend down like an inch in order for it to even meet up with the merge pipe





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post #23 of 98 Old 06-02-2010, 10:24 PM
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I used exhaust gasket material, it has metal in it. On that U shaped pipe, i took a hammer and some heat to it. No more rubing or vibrations.

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post #24 of 98 Old 06-02-2010, 10:53 PM
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^^ at this point it might be better to buy a couple mandrel bends and redo the pipe.

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post #25 of 98 Old 06-02-2010, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
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^^ at this point it might be better to buy a couple mandrel bends and redo the pipe.
i would agree,,, might want to make new ones!

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post #26 of 98 Old 06-02-2010, 11:20 PM
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Wow that looks pretty rough. As long as I don't get delayed anymore I will have mine installed this weekend so I will report back what I find with my kit. Good luck

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post #27 of 98 Old 06-03-2010, 12:13 AM
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Wow that sucks man. My lower radiator hose would not go in at all so i went and bought a flexable one and routed it around everything. I put alot of miles on it and no signs of any damage from the hotside. As far as clearance goes, the exhaust pipes sit a little low so i have to be very careful when i go to a place where there is bumps. Everything else didnt go "right in" so a C clamp helped alot.

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post #28 of 98 Old 06-03-2010, 01:23 AM
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Turbo99svt damn that pipe is way off!!! mine was off a little about 1/4 " ... I know you probably do but are all the pipes loose that attach to the merge? and are the pipes that connect to the manifolds loose? it took me a while of playing around w/ the pipes to get them close..

My lower radiator hose sucked , i had to cut it and get a 90 degree hose from advanced to make it work .. I also just purchased a stainless universal hose from summit .

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post #29 of 98 Old 06-03-2010, 01:42 AM
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Turbo99svt damn that pipe is way off!!! mine was off a little about 1/4 " ... I know you probably do but are all the pipes loose that attach to the merge? and are the pipes that connect to the manifolds loose? it took me a while of playing around w/ the pipes to get them close..

My lower radiator hose sucked , i had to cut it and get a 90 degree hose from advanced to make it work .. I also just purchased a stainless universal hose from summit .
Same thing i did with the merge. Loosened all the pipes and then used a C clamp so that the T bolt could go through enough for the nut to be threaded in. I didnt get a stainless universal hose just the one from advanced. I will upload a picture tomorrow of how its routed. Its close to the hotside but i have been giving it some boost several times and drove for an hour straight with no signs of damage to the hose.

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post #30 of 98 Old 06-03-2010, 02:49 AM
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No offense but that looks absolutely horrid. I agree, time to buy some mandrel bends and get it fixed right.

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post #31 of 98 Old 06-03-2010, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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No offense taken i agree 100%... And there would've needed more cutting and patching even after all that. And no the was nothing hooked to the other side of the merge pipe and both flanges were loose.

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post #32 of 98 Old 06-03-2010, 07:18 PM
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^ I had the same fitment issue in my build. I bet the jig that they use to build that piece is losing its accuracy.

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post #33 of 98 Old 06-03-2010, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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What did you do about fixing it ...And did you ever call them because Both Chad and Mike said they have never had a fitment issue such as mine.

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post #34 of 98 Old 06-03-2010, 08:41 PM
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Thats the same response I got, "worked on our cars so there's no reason it wouldn't on yours", so I must be doing something wrong. The reality is that jigs can change shape after repeated uses because the piece being welded tends to pull on the jig especially if the fitment of the pipes and vbands is a little off. I fixed that pipe by cutting ~ 3/4" off the straight section then splicing that 3/4" piece in before the forward v-band (lengthening that leg of the bend) . The straight section that the 3/4" piece was removed from was reconnected with a sleeve pipe (shortening the total length).


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of course chad never had a fitament issue like yours or anyones for that matter, he is the turbo god and were all just lucky to be on the same earth as him.

your best bet is to just modify any part of the kit that needs it and forget all about chad and on3- once they have your money thats the end of your relationship

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