Just picked up a Fox body and 351W.... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-22-2010, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Just picked up a Fox body and 351W....

So, as the title states, I'm at square one... Literally... A four hundred dollar car, as close to a roller as they come that just happens to have a 351W sitting under the hood... Here's my question or two....

I will be building/rebuilding the motor of course and I'm not sure what heads/comp ratio to use for a turbo set up. I'd like to go up in cubes (377/393/408) but also keep the streetability rather good.

So, what compression ratio should I go with when I build it to safely run boost?

What heads would be most compatible to lets say, an On3 kit and thier manifolds? (After reading up on kits, theirs seems to be the best bang for buck when I'm not Moneybags McGhee)

My goal is a 600-700rwhp LX hatch with a 5 or 6spd that's easily daily drivable. Hell, even staying close to stock cubes could work, I just like the big numbers!

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-23-2010, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hrmm, I suppose I'm not getting any replies due to asking "duh" questions. I'll do a bit more forum searching.

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post #3 of 14 Old 05-24-2010, 09:05 AM
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If it's a stock block, no reason to waste the money stroking it. You can kill the block with stock displacement and a turbo. Check the block casting to see what year it is - if it's 72-back, you can handle aboiut 750HP before it's ready to die. The downside is, though, if you want to run a hydraulic roller cam, you have to either buy expensive linked bar lifters or a reduced base circle cam. The newer roller blocks won't handle as much power as the older ones, but they're already set up to run a roller cam so you don't have to do any changing.

Static compression really doesn't mean crap when building an engine - the camshaft is where the magic really happens. However, if you're not going custom grind and want to keep things in the safe area, shoot for between 9:1 and 9.5:1 for a good responding engine.

I can't answer the last question, as I've never had my hands on an On3 kit. I will say that the head selection isn't quite as critical with a boosted setup as it is with an N/A setup, as fluids flow differently under pressure than under vacuum. I'd really like to get my hands on a set of TFS highports for my next engine.
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-24-2010, 10:12 AM
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Just picked up a Fox body and 351W....

With your power goal I would not stroke it. More cubes means more supporting hardware such as heads that breath well enough for the cubes. That power goal though is nothing that needs the more cubes. I'd shoot for 9:1 compression but their are a lot of different trains of thought for compressionof motors with turbos. This is just a guess but I'd think the kits are designed around a head with a "stock" style exhaust port. But best to ask on3 or find people with the kits to see what they have and works for them.

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post #5 of 14 Old 05-24-2010, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I wanted the car to make good power naturally aspirated because it will be driven a good while before I can afford to turbo it. Looks like I'm SOL with the roller motor, seeing as from what I've seen so far, I have a non roller motor. So it's back to the drawing board. Quite frankly, I don't have the money to throw money at things I could do for cheaper by selling my engine and picking up a roller block or saving the coin for an aftermarket block.

So even if I'm considering buying a whole new rotating assembly, I shouldn't stroke? I planned on getting a good set of heads, custom ground cam and a good intake with portwork.
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post #6 of 14 Old 05-24-2010, 03:20 PM
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You clearly are on a budget. If you plan to go turbo I still would not bother doing a stroked 351. It will just result in more money than is needed fr the desired power.

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post #7 of 14 Old 05-24-2010, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it's no so much budget, as it is time vs. money.... I can do whatever I want to the car... It's just the time it will take to accrue the money to do so....
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-25-2010, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huafist View Post
If it's a stock block, no reason to waste the money stroking it. You can kill the block with stock displacement and a turbo. Check the block casting to see what year it is - if it's 72-back, you can handle aboiut 750HP before it's ready to die. .
there was a guy at pinks last weekend running 8.20-8.30's w/a stock block,so they will last longer & stronger than people think, just need the right tune,lower rpms to keep them alive

1993 Reef Blue Notchback,Stock with GT40 Tubular intake, 70mm TB,AOD Tranny,3.73's,Full Flow Master Exhaust.
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-04-2010, 09:05 AM
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there was a guy at pinks last weekend running 8.20-8.30's w/a stock block,so they will last longer & stronger than people think, just need the right tune,lower rpms to keep them alive
you can also cry treat &/or cement the blocks. guys have mad 800+ with this combo.
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-04-2010, 11:42 AM
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#### sake, don't waste a dime trying to make a stock block stronger! Use the block, stock crank and stock rods. Get a nice forged piston and make sure to prep the stock crank and rods properly. Windsor engine parts are very capable of supporting big power, you just got to do it right, and it sounds like you are off to a good start. You are going to need to invest in heads and a cam and intake. Making 650-700hp from a 357 cube motor is a very reasonable goal with boost and the blocks live long happy lives at that power level. Even the 80s and 90s blocks. Get a good tune, keep rpm no higher than 6500. Don't waste your time and money on girdles you don't need them. Here is what I would do

Vic jr heads, Vic efi/tfs 351 intake, cam motion cam. Use stock crank rods, any decent forged piston, keep comp around 9/1 and you will make the power you want. Although I would never buy from on 3, make sure to use a turbo in the 76mm range with a .96 exh.

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post #11 of 14 Old 06-04-2010, 11:46 AM
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Also, tight lash solid roller cams are your friends!
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post #12 of 14 Old 06-04-2010, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I haven't dated the block yet. But this is definantly an older block. I've got the heads and such off. There's no provisons for roller anything. LoL. What would be my best bet for converting it? I know about running link bar lifters and such... Is there any other options that will work with a stock ECU?
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-05-2010, 09:43 AM
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Solid roller cams do not requier "provisions" of any kind. Slap one in and use s/r litters. No other work needs to be done.
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-05-2010, 09:54 AM
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If you cheap out in the solid lifters then it seems like people spend more time adjusting lash. Beyond that, good lifters and valve train to handle things and solid all the way IMO.

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