1995 Cobra BG Turbo install - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 09-08-2009, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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1995 Cobra BG Turbo install

I put in a few hours the past few days installing my BG Custom Turbo kit in the 1995 Cobra.

Here is a link to the whole car build thread if you would like.
https://forums.corral.net/forums/show....php?t=1038793


So pulled the accessory drive items off the front of the motor to get the headers in. The passenger side called for removing the ABS pump but no big deal. The headers slipped right in and the turbo flange clears the frame rails. All the bolts threaded right in and are accessilbe with a socket and extensions or a wrench.

I snaked the driverside header in and it cleared the a/c lines at the back of the compressor with a small air gap. I do neet to reroute my p/s return hose a little though. Only one header bolt is going to be a bugger come time to install for good but the rest were just like the pass side, easy.

I thought all was great until I tried to connect the cross over pipe and found I was 1/2" short. I started to look for the reason and discovered that the lower portion of the headers were not clearing the AFR 185 head's deck. I am okay with that because the headers and the rest of the parts are coming off again for coating anyways. Just a dry run here.

On to mounting the turbo.....lining up the drain flange I discovered that the hole in the flange is 5/16" hole for a 3/8" bolt for the turbo. No problem it is aluminum and drills easy enough. Problem was my vise is across town at the other house, problem solved with a combination of clamps.

After mounting the flange I test fit the turbo and clocked it to what if I think is right until I install/build the cold side. The turbo is a little close to the alternator but when I grind the headers down and as they seat closer to the head it will give up some more room. The turbo blanket does fit though.

I did not get to the 3.5" DP install because I still need to DP cut and a V-Band flange installed to make future removal for plug changes easier. Without the DP in so far installing plugs was a breeze even though I installed number 8 from under the car.

As far as air filter, well not sure where the hell one is going to fit. The cold side and intercooler will have to wait for another day. I am still contemplating a driverside t/b but need to figure a way around the a/c lines over there.

pics of the work done so far

My starting point




ABS pump is clearly in the way so out it comes for good


pass header in


what I thought was great clearance, it will change when I get the headers to seat fully against the cyl head.


Driverside, I need to sort out the p/s hose and also the clutch cable


No need to modify the lower radiator hose, already have a -16an for the upper and lower.


Houston we have a problem.......pass side, I am sure the driverside is the same.

Also need some longer ARP 3/8" header bolts the 3/4" length of the ones that I have just is not going to cut it once a washer goes on.

We have TURBO, that is a Precission 76GTS with .96ar


A couple teaser pics




How she sits


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post #2 of 18 Old 09-08-2009, 03:05 PM
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Looks good. So all the accessories and stuff are supposed to fit? Do you need a tubular K member on an SN95 5.0?
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post #3 of 18 Old 09-08-2009, 03:52 PM
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damn...huge garage.. lol

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post #4 of 18 Old 09-08-2009, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Looks good. So all the accessories and stuff are supposed to fit? Do you need a tubular K member on an SN95 5.0?
Erich

I think the only thing that BG says won't fit is the smog pump.... no big deal mine dissappeared a long time ago and I trimmed the factory alt bracket to reflect the smaller needs.

I can not remember if BG says that an aftermarket k-member is needed but I already had a MM suspension with Energy Suspension motor mounts.
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post #5 of 18 Old 09-08-2009, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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damn...huge garage.. lol
Thanks, I have only been in it for 2 weeks and it works great so far. I have some bigger plans for the inside of it but one project at a time and the car has been a 2 year in the making. With my work/R&R schedule it may be running again next August.
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post #6 of 18 Old 09-08-2009, 08:38 PM
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looks really good,nice garage,i wish i had that much space.

Im doing the same install,and having almost the same problems.The hotside went in fine,just got to cover a lot of stuff with heat insulation.Did your clutch cable get in the way?Just sucks that I had to relocate,or lose stuff.If you still have the stock coolant overflow tank,you have to lose that to make the cold side fit.I should be done this weekend for sure.I think this kit was a pita to install,just a lot of setbacks.

Last edited by 95mustang_gt; 09-08-2009 at 08:42 PM.
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post #7 of 18 Old 09-09-2009, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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looks really good,nice garage,i wish i had that much space.

Im doing the same install,and having almost the same problems.The hotside went in fine,just got to cover a lot of stuff with heat insulation.Did your clutch cable get in the way?Just sucks that I had to relocate,or lose stuff.If you still have the stock coolant overflow tank,you have to lose that to make the cold side fit.I should be done this weekend for sure.I think this kit was a pita to install,just a lot of setbacks.
I still need to reroute the clutch cable but that should not be a big deal. It is already unbolted from the frame rail and I bought the longer cable for the mod motor cars just for this reason.

I had alread pulled the coolant overflow and put it in the grill behind the bumper anticipating this issue last year.

I am not dissappointed in the fit at all. If you look at the multitude of changes I have made from stock already I can not fault any turbo manufacture for not giving me a perfect fit from an off the shelf kit.

I went with BG because of customer service satisfaction and willingness to work with my needs in upgrading.

Besides I have not installed a single part on this car that has not required some sort of modification or fabricating. I guess I have kept my cool because enjoy working on it and researching/planning than driving it, even though it is going to be a blast to drive.
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post #8 of 18 Old 09-09-2009, 04:26 PM
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Thermo-Tec makes some great inexpensive heat reflecting sleeves
for those lines that are running close to crossover.

They also make these clamp on fiberglass shields you can put on
the crossover itself.

Summit carries their full line.

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post #9 of 18 Old 09-10-2009, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by r.barn View Post
Thermo-Tec makes some great inexpensive heat reflecting sleeves
for those lines that are running close to crossover.

They also make these clamp on fiberglass shields you can put on
the crossover itself.

Summit carries their full line.

You right r.barn. I already have sitting on the shelf 1"x50' and 2"x50 black exhaust wrap and sealant spray paint. I have enough of the extra long plug boot covers for the spark plug wires and a good turbo exhaust housing sheild. I plan on coating the hot side with a thermal barrier coating then wrapping it up but leaving the header individual tubes unwrapped to comply with BG's warranty.

I would like to recreate the a/c line that runs the length of the frame rail. I would like to send it thru the fender or down the bottom along the k-member. At the same time I want to make new lines at the back of the a/c compressor. It would be nice to see them rerouted and not ran straight thru the engine bay.

The rest of the lines close to the DP and crossover will get covered also and in some cases covered twice.
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post #10 of 18 Old 09-10-2009, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbscobravert View Post
You right r.barn. I already have sitting on the shelf 1"x50' and 2"x50 black exhaust wrap and sealant spray paint. I have enough of the extra long plug boot covers for the spark plug wires and a good turbo exhaust housing sheild. I plan on coating the hot side with a thermal barrier coating then wrapping it up but leaving the header individual tubes unwrapped to comply with BG's warranty.

The rest of the lines close to the DP and crossover will get covered also and in some cases covered twice.

You mean like this!





do yourself a favor, wrap everything twice. Especially that downpipe. It throws out an amazing amount of heat. Get the best heat shield you can buy. My exhaust housing was coated. It didn't do a thing!. The Lava heat shield is probably the better ones out there.


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post #11 of 18 Old 09-11-2009, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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pennex1: love the pics thanks, it looks awesome, what kind of power are you getting with your blow thru setup?

Have you considered moving your fuel system to the driverside to escape any heat you can't control with those badass heat sleeves.
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post #12 of 18 Old 09-11-2009, 09:23 AM
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Have you considered moving your fuel system to the driverside to escape any heat you can't control with those badass heat sleeves.


It would involve too much work to move the lines right now as i have other plans with the car after i come back from the track rental in a few weeks. With the lava shield, the heat is not as bad but it still get mighty hot under the hood.

But like i said in the other post, wrap that down pipe 2x or 3x. That pipe gets hot. Same with the crossover. And put sleeve on your plug wires. I have double sleeves on my. The way that downpipe is positioned, your #3 and #4 wires are sandwiched between the valve cover and the pipe.

You might want to consider cutting that down pipe in to two pieces and weld V bands to make accessing the plugs easier. Otherwise, it becomes a major project just to change the plugs.

I have yet to go past 8lbs of boost with my 78GTS, i can leave rubber in every gear with just that. you can see my build in the turbo forum.

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=108757.0

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Last edited by pennex1; 09-11-2009 at 09:25 AM.
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post #13 of 18 Old 09-11-2009, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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It would involve too much work to move the lines right now as i have other plans with the car after i come back from the track rental in a few weeks. With the lava shield, the heat is not as bad but it still get mighty hot under the hood.

But like i said in the other post, wrap that down pipe 2x or 3x. That pipe gets hot. Same with the crossover. And put sleeve on your plug wires. I have double sleeves on my. The way that downpipe is positioned, your #3 and #4 wires are sandwiched between the valve cover and the pipe.

You might want to consider cutting that down pipe in to two pieces and weld V bands to make accessing the plugs easier. Otherwise, it becomes a major project just to change the plugs.

I have yet to go past 8lbs of boost with my 78GTS, i can leave rubber in every gear with just that. you can see my build in the turbo forum.

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=108757.0
Thanks for the advice. I already have the 8" long spark plug wire sleeves and will consider doubling up on the pass side. I bought all the components and bulk MSD wire to build my own wire set so I have several options on length and boot choice sitting on my work bench already.

I have a couple extra V-Band sets and one is going to the DP for sure to take the burden out of plug changes. I will look at double wrapping and may even use a clamp on sheild also. This is a pure to the bone street car and has to be fun to drive and not a PITA to take a trip to dinner or what not.
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post #14 of 18 Old 09-11-2009, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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I thought those pics looked fimiliar. I love that build thread and had been following it since last summer when you started it. I wished mine was that far along but limited time home makes that difficult.
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post #15 of 18 Old 04-19-2010, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a small update. I should be ableto get plenty of work in tomorrow.

I needed to put the car out of the garage for the night to get some orginizing done. The jack stands had cob webs from the concrete to the subframes. lol

you have to look hard but you can see

ABS delete manifold is in



I am trying to pull off a front mounted T/B.

I took a 90* 3" aluminum pipe and taped it down to the EPM so there is zero clearance between the two. I have about an inch at a minimum of hood clearance so if I come off the EPM 1/2" I can still the factory hood.










Some more parts came in yesterday and brought new issues with them.

New water pump to weld the -an fittings to. The steel pipes would not come out so they got cut off.








I just need to get it tig'd up tomorrow and start building the heater hoses.

The intake elbow is on and looks sexy as hell unfortunatly it will not allow the hood to close but only by a hair.








I already cut the large tab off but need to host the pics. The hood closes but is touching still. I am going to have 1/2" machined off the intake manifold mount. The IAC will not have enough room to clear the EPM anyways. I can weld the holes up and go with a remote mounted IAC easy enough.


Another bolt or two and the dash can come out for me to extract the heater core. It will have to have fittings welded to it also. Plus I need to run my new harness out the trans tunnel and mount the new gauges.
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post #16 of 18 Old 04-19-2010, 09:43 PM
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Awesome man

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post #17 of 18 Old 04-19-2010, 11:06 PM
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Nice work.

You are more patient then me, I took the dead blow hammer to my stock hood so it would shut to get the car going....

I have to invest in some play dough :-)

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post #18 of 18 Old 04-20-2010, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Nice work.

You are more patient then me, I took the dead blow hammer to my stock hood so it would shut to get the car going....

I have to invest in some play dough :-)
dead blow hammers and fiberglass hoods do not go well together. I am going through a lot of pain keeping the factory hood and still retain all the factory accessories. The play dough was the cheapest part though.
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