Surging at Idle, running too rich? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-27-2009, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Question Surging at Idle, running too rich?

I just finished up my turbo install, and I'm running a C&L MAF, I've clocked it a couple times, no solution. Timing is set at 10* with spout out. Not sure what total timing is.

I'm running a Holley AFPR, 42#'s, and the C&L Cal'd for 42's. Drove the car last night, had tiny spots where it would start to run good, then a minute later it would surge terrible and start to load up and miss. Any throttle (at all) while under load will lay a smoke trail even when out of boost.

At 1/4 throttle the car will start to build a little bit of boost then begin to cut and sputter badly. After it got to op-temp I shut the car off and it flooded when I tried to start it again. It tried to fire, but I had to hold WOT in order for it to fire at all, then it'd immediately die if I got off of the throttle.

I turned the Fuel pressure down to 30 psi and the car started and ran enough to limp home...


'89 5.0 LX
Stock Shortblock, Stock 40p's w/ TFS Springs, TFS 1 cam, CSU Blow-Thru, t70, AOD, OE Suspension components
Best to date: 1.50 60ft [email protected]
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-27-2009, 03:04 PM
 
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My car does the same.. I just bought a PMAS Pro tube cal'd for my injectors and am confident that will solve most of the issues. The C&L is just a pain in the ass to use with a blow through and really needs a tune to even function properly.. then you have to worry about it pegging before the power levels you want. I was stubborn and tried to use it but I would still need a diablosport mafia to be able to use it because it would peg at around 450whp.

I'd sell the stupid C&L and buy a Pro tube.. it seems that most people with them have awesome driveability and what not. I'll let you know when I get mine in how it does.

Good luck.

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post #3 of 9 Old 06-27-2009, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention my check engine light is on, but isn't when I first start the car, it'll come on about 10 seconds after starting, and it'll surge once or twice before popping on.

I saw somebody say something about bandaging the problem by unplugging the O2's helped it run a little smoother, but was still not perfect... is this true?

I've had a couple friends have luck with the C&L's without a tune, but I've heard nothing but horror stories on Corral.

'89 5.0 LX
Stock Shortblock, Stock 40p's w/ TFS Springs, TFS 1 cam, CSU Blow-Thru, t70, AOD, OE Suspension components
Best to date: 1.50 60ft [email protected]
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-27-2009, 11:02 PM
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Try clocking the mass air meter. I had hell with mine this afternoon finishing up the install of my kit.
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-28-2009, 02:42 AM
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My car ran fine with the C&L. I did have to clock it though. You should make sure that it is in fact calibrated for 42's(check the color on the sample tube. I bought mine brand new and they sent the wrong one. It did exactly as you are describing. Have you checked the tps voltage. Did you plug all the sensors back in after installing your injectors? I ran my timing locked at 19 degrees. Maybe you should try locking yours out and see what happens. My buddy just had a problem with his car and the stock ecu. He locked the timing at 32 degrees and pulled out 1.2 degrees per lb and it runs great. Eliminate as many variables as you can and you will find your problem. Your fuel pressure seems aweful low. I know that every car is a little different but most combo's similar to yours run around 40 psi base fuel pressure. You have a BRFPR right?
P.S. try clocking your maf so that the calibration tube is on the outside of bend before the meter. What rpm does your car idle at?
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-29-2009, 03:13 PM
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Is there anyway to monitor your MAF output signal. I had a problem with running rough, bad idle, and CEL. The meter turned out to be fine but the connection between the male and female on the MAF were just slighlty touching inside of the plug. I reworked some of the pins inside the connector and use some electronic grease and it solved all my problems. You might consider this before buying a new meter.

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post #7 of 9 Old 06-29-2009, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldFourEyes View Post
I forgot to mention my check engine light is on.
You should take care of that. A check engine light means that...check engine.

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post #8 of 9 Old 07-02-2009, 10:13 AM
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the spout out is locking the timing. locked at 10 is pretty low. You have an a/f monitor? If not get it on a dyno just for at least a/f and adjust timing and fuel pressure from there.

Last edited by 87pony; 07-06-2009 at 12:17 PM.
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-02-2009, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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the spout out is locking the timeing. locked at 10 is pretty low. You have an a/f monitor? If not get it on a dyno just for at least a/f and adjust timing and fuel pressure from there.
I meant set with spout out then put it back in. Surging was caused by MAF not being completely in the coupler, it was pulling air in behind it.

'89 5.0 LX
Stock Shortblock, Stock 40p's w/ TFS Springs, TFS 1 cam, CSU Blow-Thru, t70, AOD, OE Suspension components
Best to date: 1.50 60ft [email protected]
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