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post #1 of 48 Old 06-21-2009, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Motor oil

OK you turbo guys ....what motor oil are you using????


637/720 14.5psi pump gas
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post #2 of 48 Old 06-21-2009, 10:29 PM
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I always just used dino based oil and pretty much what ever name brand was on sale at the time. I think 10x30 but not sure on the weight any more. My logic behind it was that I would be changing it so often that no point in me spending extra bucks on synthetic, but I am cheap like that.


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post #3 of 48 Old 06-21-2009, 10:54 PM
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Rotella here

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post #4 of 48 Old 06-23-2009, 12:29 AM
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15-40 Rotella also.

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post #5 of 48 Old 06-25-2009, 08:56 AM
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10w-30 cenpeco

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post #6 of 48 Old 06-25-2009, 09:16 AM
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10w-30 castrol gtx.
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post #7 of 48 Old 06-25-2009, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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What about the synthetic oils like Royal purple,Amsoil,or Red line?

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post #8 of 48 Old 06-25-2009, 08:05 PM
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5w-30 cheapy and change it often.

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post #9 of 48 Old 06-26-2009, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javaking View Post
What about the synthetic oils like Royal purple,Amsoil,or Red line?
I run Amsoil ASL (which is a group 4 oil) in my vehicles for up to a year,as it's a long drain type oil. Redline is a group 5 oil used in alot of high stress,high temperature applications such as racing. Another good oil to consider is Schaeffer's.

Regarding Schaeffer's, I've seen an excellent UOA (universal oil analysis) from their 7000 series at 14k miles (and it's a grp II+/PAO blend). I've watched/studied Schaeffer for a couple of years now - I see Schaeffer matching up (and with Amsoil except in extreme OCIs).

Alot of nice synthetics available out there Or,you could just run some cheaper oil,and just change it often,your choice. Myself, I'm currently running Rotella in the Mustang.

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post #10 of 48 Old 06-26-2009, 07:38 AM
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post #11 of 48 Old 06-26-2009, 10:09 AM
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royal purple 15-40

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post #12 of 48 Old 06-26-2009, 11:08 PM
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I am going to put Royal Purple 5W20 in right away.
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post #13 of 48 Old 06-28-2009, 02:20 PM
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any 15-40 diesel oil thats on sale. lately the motorcraft brand has been cheapest.

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post #14 of 48 Old 06-28-2009, 05:07 PM
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Mobil 1 5W-30.

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post #15 of 48 Old 06-28-2009, 08:35 PM
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whats the difference between diesel oil and reg oil?

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post #16 of 48 Old 06-30-2009, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by assasinator View Post
5w-30 cheapy and change it often.
cheapy and change it often ends up costing alot.
Using a non mineral based lubricant and reading oil analysis reports is cheaper than crawling around on the ground cause the oil company told you so.
Javier
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post #17 of 48 Old 06-30-2009, 04:23 AM
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whats the difference between diesel oil and reg oil?
http://new.api.org/certifications/en..._Oil_Guide.pdf
Category Status Service
For all automotive engines currently in use. Introduced in 2004, SM oils are designed to provide
improved oxidation resistance, improved deposit protection, better wear protection, and better
low-temperature performance over the life of the oil. Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC
specification and/or qualify as Energy Conserving.
SM Current
For 2004 and older SL Current automotive engines.
SJ Current For 2001 and older automotive engines.
SH Obsolete For 1996 and older engines.
SG Obsolete For 1993 and older engines.
SF Obsolete For 1988 and older engines.
SE Obsolete CAUTION: Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1979.
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1971.
Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SD Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1967.
Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SC Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1951.
Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SB Obsolete
SA Obsolete CAUTION: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automotive engines built
after 1930. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm

DIESEL ENGINES
Category Status Service
Introduced in 2006. For high-speed, four-stroke engines designed to meet 2007 model year on-highway
exhaust emission standards. CJ-4 oils are compounded for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging
in sulfur content up to 500 ppm (0.05% by weight). However, use of these oils with greater than 15 ppm
(0.0015% by weight) sulfur fuel may impact exhaust aftertreatment system durability and/or oil drain
interval. CJ-4 oils are effective at sustaining emission control system durability where particulate filters
and other advanced aftertreatment systems are used. Optimum protection is provided for control of catalyst
poisoning, particulate filter blocking, engine wear, piston deposits, low- and high-temperature stability, soot
handling properties, oxidative thickening, foaming, and viscosity loss due to shear. API CJ-4 oils exceed the
performance criteria of API CI-4 with CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4 and CF-4 and can effectively lubricate
engines calling for those API Service Categories. When using CJ-4 oil with higher than 15 ppm sulfur fuel,
consult the engine manufacturer for service interval.
CJ-4 Current
Introduced in 2002. For high-speed, four-stroke engines designed to meet 2004 exhaust emission standards
implemented in 2002. CI-4 oils are formulated to sustain engine durability where exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR) is used and are intended for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight. Can
be used in place of CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4, and CH-4 oils. Some CI-4 oils may also qualify for the CI-4 PLUS
designation.
CI-4 Current
CH-4 Current
CG-4 Current
CF-4 Obsolete
CF-2 Current
CF Current
CE Obsolete
CD-II Obsolete
CD Obsolete
CC Obsolete
CB
CA
Obsolete
Obsolete
Introduced in 1998. For high-speed, four-stroke engines designed to meet 1998 exhaust emission standards.
CH-4 oils are specifically compounded for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight.
Can be used in place of CD, CE, CF-4, and CG-4 oils.
Introduced in 1995. For severe duty, high-speed, four-stroke engines using fuel with less than 0.5% weight
sulfur. CG-4 oils are required for engines meeting 1994 emission standards. Can be used in place of CD, CE,
and CF-4 oils.
Introduced in 1990. For high-speed, four-stroke, naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines. Can be used
in place of CD and CE oils.
Introduced in 1994. For severe duty, two-stroke-cycle engines. Can be used in place of CD-II oils.
Introduced in 1994. For off-road, indirect-injected and other diesel engines including those using fuel with
over 0.5% weight sulfur. Can be used in place of CD oils.
Introduced in 1985. For high-speed, four-stroke, naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines. Can be used
in place of CC and CD oils.
Introduced in 1985. For two-stroke cycle engines.
Introduced in 1955. For certain naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines.
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in diesel-powered engines built after 1990.
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in diesel-powered engines built after 1961.
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in diesel-powered engines built after 1959.
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post #18 of 48 Old 06-30-2009, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
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cheapy and change it often ends up costing alot.
Using a non mineral based lubricant and reading oil analysis reports is cheaper than crawling around on the ground cause the oil company told you so.
Javier
When that one oil change is once a year due to low mileage...it often times doesn't end up being that big of a deal.

Another thing to think about is with all those that have deleted the PCV system (which seems to be quite a few in the turbo world)....they would be very wise to change the oil more frequently regardless of oil type.

As for me, I just use the cheap 10w40 mobile dino changed once to twice a year (3k-5k miles a year tops).

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post #19 of 48 Old 06-30-2009, 08:51 PM
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I always changed the oil quite often because of beating on the car. It maybe was worthless to do but was just something ingrained into my head by an old racer who I used to spend a lot of time around. My last motor did not even have a dipstick tube on it, not even provisions in the block for it and never worried once about that because knew I'd be changing that oil after every trip to the track and going quite often. I did not use the cheapest oil though, just the cheapest name brand oil. I use the cheapest oil in my clunker cars that burn/leak the stuff all the damn time.

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post #20 of 48 Old 07-02-2009, 03:52 PM
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post #21 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 12:33 AM
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Planning on using like Castrol gtx 10w30...then Amsoil 100% synthetic once motor is broken, nice to get amsoil cheaper too

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post #22 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 12:46 AM
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15/40 rotella
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post #23 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 01:36 AM
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10W40 AMSOIL in the engine here, AMSOIL ATF in the AOD and AMSOIL in the 9 out back
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post #24 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 07:01 AM
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All you guys running the high zoot synthetic oils....what type of pcv system are you running? I've you have bypassed it all together and are running open, what are you doing to combat the extra condensation and contaminants/gasses that do no get filtered out? It seems that regular (lower mile) oil changes would be required negating any benefits of the synthetics in the first place. Again, this would only be for those running an open pcv system.
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post #25 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millhouse View Post
All you guys running the high zoot synthetic oils....what type of pcv system are you running? I've you have bypassed it all together and are running open, what are you doing to combat the extra condensation and contaminants/gasses that do no get filtered out? It seems that regular (lower mile) oil changes would be required negating any benefits of the synthetics in the first place. Again, this would only be for those running an open pcv system.
I run a open system breathers on each valve cover PCV is usless with performance, and most of the time it is always ran incorrectly.
I use a bypass filter to catch any contaminates smaller than 2 microns.
The synthetic oils can withstand water,fuel,coolant many times beyond what mineral oil can handle before degredation.
Rendering mineral oil obsolete in my view.
I would rather purchase a UOA, used oil analysis to find issues with my oil than to blindly just change the oil.
Javier

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post #26 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rancherov8power View Post
I run a open system breathers on each valve cover PCV is usless with performance, and most of the time it is always ran incorrectly.
I use a bypass filter to catch any contaminates smaller than 2 microns.
The synthetic oils can withstand water,fuel,coolant many times beyond what mineral oil can handle before degredation.
Rendering mineral oil obsolete in my view.
I would rather purchase a UOA, used oil analysis to find issues with my oil than to blindly just change the oil.
Javier
I don't have an issue with what the oil can withstand, but rather what the bearings, rods, crank etc. can. Combustion gasses and water that end up in the engines oil can wreak havoc on metals over time. This is especially the case with those that only drive on the weekends and track use. Again, the problem isn't with the oil, but with the contaminants in the oil that do not get filtered out.

Here is a hypothetical (and one without an answer). Take 2 identical weekend cruisers that are running an open pcv system with a catch-can. Car A is running straight dyno oil and changes the oil every 3k miles. Car B is running pure synthetic and is changing it's oil every 7k-10k miles. Let's say this continues on for a period of 7 years from a fresh rebuild.

Here is the question...which one would you buy given the chance?

That synthetic oil isn't going to do jack for water condensation in the crankcase...or combustion gasses that contain carbonic and sulfuric acid.

I of course would choose B.
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post #27 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by millhouse View Post
I don't have an issue with what the oil can withstand, but rather what the bearings, rods, crank etc. can. Combustion gasses and water that end up in the engines oil can wreak havoc on metals over time. This is especially the case with those that only drive on the weekends and track use. Again, the problem isn't with the oil, but with the contaminants in the oil that do not get filtered out.

Here is a hypothetical (and one without an answer). Take 2 identical weekend cruisers that are running an open pcv system with a catch-can. Car A is running straight dyno oil and changes the oil every 3k miles. Car B is running pure synthetic and is changing it's oil every 7k-10k miles. Let's say this continues on for a period of 7 years from a fresh rebuild.

Here is the question...which one would you buy given the chance?

That synthetic oil isn't going to do jack for water condensation in the crankcase...or combustion gasses that contain carbonic and sulfuric acid.

I of course would choose B.
do you have any evidence that synthetic oils over time will degrade with condensation, combustion gasses, carbonic, sulfuric acid in the mix?
Synthetic oils will resist all these contaminates 10x over mineral oil.
This is why you have to change mineral oil.
Condensation will never be an issue simply cause sump temperature will steam out any water in the system.
I used a synthetic oil for 5 years without change and 40,000 miles and after all that time the oil checked out still good for continued use.
http://www.voogru.com/images/oil2.jpg

not to mention the synthetic oiled engine will have less wear after 7 years
I would buy A
Javier

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post #28 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millhouse View Post
All you guys running the high zoot synthetic oils....what type of pcv system are you running? I've you have bypassed it all together and are running open, what are you doing to combat the extra condensation and contaminants/gasses that do no get filtered out? It seems that regular (lower mile) oil changes would be required negating any benefits of the synthetics in the first place. Again, this would only be for those running an open pcv system.
Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricant’s reserve alkalinity, which aids in the control of acids formed during the combustion process. The higher a motor oil’s TBN, the more effective it is in suspending wear-causing contaminants and reducing the corrosive effects of acids over an extended period of time.

The Thin Film Oxygen Uptake Test (TFOUT) is used to evaluate engine oil’s ability to resist heat and oxygen breakdown when contaminated with oxidized/nitrated fuel, water, and soluble metals such as lead, copper, iron, manganese and silicon. This test is designed to mimic the operating conditions of a gasoline engine

Synthetic Motor Oil overcomes the thermal deficiencies common to conventional petroleum oils. Volatilization (burn-off), oxidation and excessive deposit formation from high heat are greatly reduced. Viscosity thickening is controlled and engines run clean, promoting cooler operation and long engine life in air or liquid cooled engines.

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do you have any evidence that synthetic oils over time will degrade with condensation, combustion gasses, carbonic, sulfuric acid in the mix?
Synthetic oils will resist all these contaminates 10x over mineral oil.
This is why you have to change mineral oil.
Condensation will never be an issue simply cause sump temperature will steam out any water in the system.
I used a synthetic oil for 5 years without change and 40,000 miles and after all that time the oil checked out still good for continued use.
http://www.voogru.com/images/oil2.jpg

not to mention the synthetic oiled engine will have less wear after 7 years
I would buy A
Javier
This isn't an issue with the oil man, but rather with the contaminants existing in the oil in the first place. Regardless of oil type, they will exist and will not get filtered out. While the water will evaporate, without a pcv system it will not all evacuate. Eventually, it will settle back down...and without frequent oil changes will be present in larger quantities.

You see, the damage isn't necessarily done when the engine is in use, but during those times when the vehicle is sitting (and at start-up) and they (combustion gasses and h20) are free to exist in the crankcase. The pcv system is not there to function only as an EGR system, but to evacuate combustion gasses from the crankcase which lead to premature engine wear. Running synthetic oil does not negate the need for this, nor does it render the presence of said gasses harmless.

Last edited by millhouse; 07-04-2009 at 08:40 AM.
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post #30 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
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This isn't an issue with the oil man, but rather with the contaminants existing in the oil in the first place. Regardless of oil type, they will exist and will not get filtered out. While the water will evaporate, without a pcv system it will not all evacuate. Eventually, it will settle back down...and without frequent oil changes will be present in larger quantities.

You see, the damage isn't necessarily done when the engine is in use, but during those times when the vehicle is sitting (and at start-up) and they (combustion gasses and h20) are free to exist in the crankcase. The pcv system is not there to function only as an EGR system, but to evacuate combustion gasses from the crankcase which lead to premature engine wear. Running synthetic oil does not negate the need for this, nor does it render the presence of said gasses harmless.
I have not seen any evidence of small quantities of water settling to make larger quantities. if you crank up an engine and run it less than 15 minutes one a week for 7 years I may agree with you, but we are not that old and we drive our cars hard, so your theory is out the window on the water.

Again true synthetic oil will resist contaminates from degrading the oil, what will happen is the oil will suspend the contaminates and the filters job is to catch those contaminates, causing the oil to be analitcally cleaned

I hear what you are saying and I agree if you are using mineral oil but it is simply not the case with non mineral based lubricants.
Javier

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post #31 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millhouse View Post
All you guys running the high zoot synthetic oils....what type of pcv system are you running? I've you have bypassed it all together and are running open, what are you doing to combat the extra condensation and contaminants/gasses that do no get filtered out? It seems that regular (lower mile) oil changes would be required negating any benefits of the synthetics in the first place. Again, this would only be for those running an open pcv system.
i have a breather on one valve cover and my pcv is in place with a one way check valve so i cam still using the PCV...So i think i am ok right?

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post #32 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 09:17 AM
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i have a breather on one valve cover and my pcv is in place with a one way check valve so i cam still using the PCV...So i think i am ok right?
how can the one way valve suck the gases out with a breather on the other side? the factory EFI engine is sealed with a PCV valve so the gases will pass into the intake tract.
Now you have a vacuum leak.
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Quote:
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I have not seen any evidence of small quantities of water settling to make larger quantities. if you crank up an engine and run it less than 15 minutes one a week for 7 years I may agree with you, but we are not that old and we drive our cars hard, so your theory is out the window on the water.

Again true synthetic oil will resist contaminates from degrading the oil, what will happen is the oil will suspend the contaminates and the filters job is to catch those contaminates, causing the oil to be analitcally cleaned

I hear what you are saying and I agree if you are using mineral oil but it is simply not the case with non mineral based lubricants.
Javier
Resist as it may, synthetic oil is not going to capture all of the combustion gasses present in the crankcase. The pcv system is present for a reason, and synthetic oils are not going to make them obsolete. While the synthetic oil after 7k-10k miles may not yet be broken down, it will likely have far more contaminants than a 3k mile dyno oil example when used in a open crankcase setup. I offer no proof...nor do I feel like digging. I have not found any evidence showing the use of synthetics eliminating the need for a pcv system where engine longevity is concerned.
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post #34 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by millhouse View Post
Resist as it may, synthetic oil is not going to capture all of the combustion gasses present in the crankcase. The pcv system is present for a reason, and synthetic oils are not going to make them obsolete. While the synthetic oil after 7k-10k miles may not yet be broken down, it will likely have far more contaminants than a 3k mile dyno oil example when used in a open crankcase setup. I offer no proof...nor do I feel like digging. I have not found any evidence showing the use of synthetics eliminating the need for a pcv system where engine longevity is concerned.
A PVC system is placed on a engine for emissions, Goverment mandated, only, it actually makes the engine dirty, Blowby gases reintroduced into the intake stream.
Before the goverment mandated those systems all engines had downdraft tubes, blowby, exiting below the engine.
Javier

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post #35 of 48 Old 07-04-2009, 09:29 AM
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the one way check valve is there because the car is turbocharged and i dont want to pressurize the crankcase

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