13.5 AFR at WOT?? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 05-13-2009, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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13.5 AFR at WOT??

Does anyone have any suggestions for me? I have a custom TT setup on a 91 5.0 with a 255lph fuel pump, 30# injectors and matched CNL MAF. Wideband located after the driver side turbo, O2's in stock locations with a fair amount of exhaust leaks before them. I'm working on that over time, but thought that the exhaust leaks would only make it run richer (more O2 should make the ECU richen the mixture). I'm also running an EGR eliminator. I'm only running 3-5 psi until I get it tuned. Idle is at about 12 AFR.

I had thought that if I tried to use a rising rate regulator that the computer would adjust it back out over time, same thing with bigger injectors/MAF. How do I richen the mixture at WOT?

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post #2 of 16 Old 05-13-2009, 11:57 PM
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for now turn up your fuel pressure. What is it with the vac line unplugged?


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post #3 of 16 Old 05-14-2009, 08:06 AM
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Step a: Ensure your fuel pressure regulator is functioning properly. It should be set to 39psi with the vacuum line removed and have a 1:1 rate with boost (with a 39psi base & 5lbs of boost....you should see 44psi)

Steb 2: Fix those exhaust leaks

Step c: Get a tune

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post #4 of 16 Old 05-14-2009, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amrcnv8 View Post

I had thought that if I tried to use a rising rate regulator that the computer would adjust it back out over time, same thing with bigger injectors/MAF. How do I richen the mixture at WOT?
at WOT the computer will not try to make it leaner with either the FMU or larger injectors/MAF.

I suggest the larger injectors/MAF and a tune route, but a FMU will work, it just won't have the greatest A/F curve.

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post #5 of 16 Old 05-14-2009, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of your help. Do most people get a tune from a dyno shop or buy a QuarterHorse or TwEECerRT?
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post #6 of 16 Old 05-14-2009, 10:16 PM
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all depends on your skill and the ability/willingness to learn and accept liability if you screw it up. Some people like to tinker, others don't.

I am using an Anderson PMS on my Mustang, but I have a Moates F3 chip in my XR4Ti. I really like what the Quarterhorse has to offer and if I had to do it again on both cars, that's probably what i would get. However, I really like the PMS, especially with the boost referencing and InterACQ. If I get serious about boosting hard (bigger turbo and above the 21psi I am at now) on my XR4Ti, I may switch to a Quarterhorse since I'll need the real-time datalogging.

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post #7 of 16 Old 05-15-2009, 06:27 AM
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all depends on your skill and the ability/willingness to learn and accept liability if you screw it up. Some people like to tinker, others don't.
This is KEY. Getting a "perfect" tune down with any tuner is going to take some time...and many tanks of fuel. Some of us get a kick out of it while others just simply want it done. A dyno tune is generally cheaper...but if you go with a piggyback or stand-alone...you end up with all sorts of things that you won't have with a simple tune. A wideband for instance and the ability to datalog in most cases.
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post #8 of 16 Old 05-18-2009, 09:34 PM
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Before I got my Tweecer my car would always head toward a 13:1 afr at WOT and I would get off the gas. After I got the Tweecer I could see the tables called for a 13.5 afr at WOT. I changed the tables to 11.5 at WOT and now that's what I get a WOT. Before the Tweecer I tried raising the fuel pressure to 44-46psi but that didn't solve the problem.

Find out which system your local tuner prefers and get that one. Start tuning yourself and then go to the tuner to finish it up (or just do it yourself). Your car must function well before it can be tuned well. It's hard to know if your car is working well if you can't even drive it (at WOT).
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post #9 of 16 Old 05-18-2009, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Before I got my Tweecer my car would always head toward a 13:1 afr at WOT and I would get off the gas. After I got the Tweecer I could see the tables called for a 13.5 afr at WOT. I changed the tables to 11.5 at WOT and now that's what I get a WOT. Before the Tweecer I tried raising the fuel pressure to 44-46psi but that didn't solve the problem.

Find out which system your local tuner prefers and get that one. Start tuning yourself and then go to the tuner to finish it up (or just do it yourself). Your car must function well before it can be tuned well. It's hard to know if your car is working well if you can't even drive it (at WOT).
Thanks for the info! Did you try a rising rate regulator, dual rate or just a regular adjustable regulator? Any thoughts on the QuarterHorse (aside from the local tuner suggestion)? I've been looking at that based on the recommendations from this thread.
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post #10 of 16 Old 05-19-2009, 10:29 AM
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The quarterhorse is much like the tweecer. From what I have taken it, it only holds one tune, but has better features (live tuning and faster logging).

I would get a quarterhorse if I did not have tweecer now. It is not bad to learn, atleast the basic stuff. However, if you have tuning problems you can usually get help.


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post #11 of 16 Old 05-19-2009, 11:46 AM
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i see you are from chicago.. if you are looking for a custom tune, email me!

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post #12 of 16 Old 05-19-2009, 10:03 PM
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Thanks for the info! Did you try a rising rate regulator, dual rate or just a regular adjustable regulator? Any thoughts on the QuarterHorse (aside from the local tuner suggestion)? I've been looking at that based on the recommendations from this thread.

I used a regular aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. It increases the fuel pressure at a 1 for 1 rate. I do think an fmu type regulator would work, but with advances in computer tuning I wouldn't use an fmu today.

I got my Tweecer before the QuarterHorse came on the market so I don't know much about it. I do see it is cheaper, so I would be interested. I wouldn't worry about it only holding one tune. You can put additional tunes on you laptop and load them as needed.
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post #13 of 16 Old 05-20-2009, 02:36 AM
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I'm pretty sure the quarterhorse holds more than one tune.

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post #14 of 16 Old 05-20-2009, 02:40 AM
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amrcnv8


email [email protected] and do what he says.

done.

Precision 67mm turbo, this and that.
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post #15 of 16 Old 05-25-2009, 07:41 AM
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You could try running the oxygen sensor unplugged. This will make the car run the fuel table without the sensor feedback. This should give you a slighly richer idle since their are no oxygen sensors to tell the computer to trim back on the fuel for the idle to 3000rpms and this should carry over making it richer through the whole rpm range. But this is not a perminant fix, get her tuned.

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post #16 of 16 Old 05-25-2009, 01:50 PM
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You "could" just stop the band-aid version of tuning (rising rate regulator and calibrated MAF) and do a PROPER ECU tune and have it right.

Your AFR is DANGEROUSLY high for boost.... we're talking melted piston kind of high.

You've spent all that money on the turbos and motor now you need to spend just a little more on the most imporatant part... a dyno tune.

Nothing but slow chebby's right now.....
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