Couple questions - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Couple questions

Bout ready to fire up my bg turbo kit

1) Can the wastegate vacuum line be ran from the intake? I have read people say you shouldnt hook it up to vacuum but compressor doesnt have a port for a vacuum line

2) How hot does a downpipe wrapped get? If my plug wires touch the downpipe that is wrapped will they be okay? Having a hard time getting them not to touch and the taylor line protectors I got wont fit over my wires.

3) Whats the proper way to start a turbo for the first time? Have heard you should hold the fins(not to happy about that idea)


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Last edited by Rich G; 04-11-2009 at 07:16 PM.
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post #2 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 07:33 PM
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No run your line from the waste gate to either the turbo housing (there should be a fitting on it) or any where before the throttle body.

And yeah it will probly burn your wires if they touch the down pipe.

Not sure what you mean by hold the fin's. I just started the car.


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post #3 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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I dont have a fitting on the turbo, of course I could drill and tap one but thats a pain.
Why cant the wastegate see vacuum?

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post #4 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Gill View Post
I dont have a fitting on the turbo, of course I could drill and tap one but thats a pain.
Why cant the wastegate see vacuum?

I would like to know as well !!!

I have mine on the intake and it hass seen vac for over a year with no issues !! back in the day I had a talon that the gate seen vac for many years with no issues.

I cant see nothing wrong with it, as it has worked fine for me for years but IF there is something to it "not seeing vac" I would like to know.

IF you mean hold the fins of the turbo.. I would NOT suggest it!!! unless you dont like your fingers!!

at most pour some oil in through the feed line before you start it/prime it real well, or even unplug coil and roll it over for a min.

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post #5 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 09:19 PM
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Do NOT hold the fins of the turbo, if you sit back and think about it you won't need anyone to explain why this is a BAD idea.

No way to zip tie the plug wires away from the headers or downpipe? Mine run under the header along the head and then up to the distributor - is this an option for you?

I too just started my car, no issues.

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post #6 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Gill View Post
I dont have a fitting on the turbo, of course I could drill and tap one but thats a pain.
Why cant the wastegate see vacuum?
tial says it will tear the diaphragm. Just looked on their website but did not see it. I thought I read it there though.

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post #7 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red89coupe View Post
I would like to know as well !!!

I have mine on the intake and it hass seen vac for over a year with no issues !! back in the day I had a talon that the gate seen vac for many years with no issues.

I cant see nothing wrong with it, as it has worked fine for me for years but IF there is something to it "not seeing vac" I would like to know.

IF you mean hold the fins of the turbo.. I would NOT suggest it!!! unless you dont like your fingers!!

at most pour some oil in through the feed line before you start it/prime it real well, or even unplug coil and roll it over for a min.
Your thinking of your blow off valve. Even Tial says to do it that way.

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post #8 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 10:07 PM
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post #9 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 11:06 PM
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I actually switched my wastegate source from the turbo compressor to the intake because the psi would drop from 6 psi to 4 psi because while the turbo compressor was at a true 6 psi by time it got to the motor past the intercooler the boost would drop. Once I used the manifold as a source I got a steady 6 psi through the entire pull.

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post #10 of 24 Old 04-11-2009, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bccoupe View Post
Your thinking of your blow off valve. Even Tial says to do it that way.
no Im not lol

both bov and wg are off the intake on mine.... I guess I should check to make sure the diaphragm is not torn and put a check valve in that line so it wont see any vac... Thats the first I have ever herd of it being a issue. Turbonetics didnt mention it.. guess now I know.


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post #11 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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I dont have a good way to get the wires off the downpipe, not sure how I could do it.

As far as holding the turbo thats what I thought, I mean common sense told me that but my buddy insisted.

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post #12 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 12:24 AM
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you could put 90s on the ends and run them under the header and make sure they are heat shielded.
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post #13 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Gill View Post
I dont have a good way to get the wires off the downpipe, not sure how I could do it.

As far as holding the turbo thats what I thought, I mean common sense told me that but my buddy insisted.

tell him to hold it and you will start the car. LMFAO.

bc.... thanks for the heads up and the diagram, Im going to fix that tomorrow.

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post #14 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Gill View Post
I dont have a good way to get the wires off the downpipe, not sure how I could do it.

As far as holding the turbo thats what I thought, I mean common sense told me that but my buddy insisted.
you can get heat covers from summit.

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post #15 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangless View Post
you can get heat covers from summit.
Like I said, I have heat covers but they wont fit over my wires. They have a ring in them which is just big enough for the wire itself, nevertheless the boot and all

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post #16 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 12:32 PM
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There are MANY people that have ran their wastegate lines to the manifold as reference for years without issues. The reason to reference it off the manifold is that the wastegate will be held shut until the manifold sees the appropriate boost levels, not the turbo's. Remember there will be a pressure drop across the system. Of course, when you allow the wastegate diaphragm to see pressure as well as boost, you allow it to deflect in two directions rather than one. This can cause the diaphragm to fatigue sooner than otherwise designed. Of course, many have ran them that way for years with no failure. Ultimately, it's up to you to decide if the benefits (quicker spool, more accurate boost per wastegate setting) outweigh the extra wear and tear.

As for the plug wires, route them in such a way where they make as little contact as possible with the headers/downpipe. This may mean you route some (or all) under the headers rather than over....and of course will mean you need to cut your own from a universal kit. This is how I've done mine with my twin setup, and not only does it look clean....I have yet to burn up a wire since re-routing them.

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post #17 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Well I took off my compressor housing, I am going to drill and tap it.
I just doubled up on the heatshields for the plug wires, dont really wanna spend more money on plug wires.

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post #18 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 12:58 PM
 
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Post pics of whatever you end up doing por favor!
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post #19 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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will do, charger for my camera is at work

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post #20 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 01:22 PM
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It's been years ago, but I remember my Cartech kit came with a check valve to use between the intake and wg. If it wasn't for that, what else would it have been for? I'm too young for my memory to feel this old hehe.

Millhouse, how do you get quicker spool going with the intake method?

Scotty we need more power!!!
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post #21 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 01:48 PM
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Just had mine running a little while ago...just idling for about 10 mins or so while i set the timing and topped off coolant,etc. My wrapped downpipe didn't get that hot at all, could lay your hand on it. Even the exit of the downpipe which isn't wrapped wasn't all that hot either....this was while running also. Hmm, surprised me it was pretty quiet with open dp.

The ceramic coating on headers/crossover works pretty good too...they weren't all that hot either.

I'm using a set of universal msd with 90 degree ends and ran under the headers. I put the wire heat boots on backwards(small ring away from the plug end), removed the spark plug 90 degree boots and slid the heat shields on and put plug boots on. Then i could slide the heat guards all the way up over the plug ends all the way to the head.

*edit, as far as the wastegate signal, i found a bung and welded it to the cold side just in front of the throttle body.


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Last edited by NoSloCoupes; 04-12-2009 at 01:56 PM.
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post #22 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobo View Post
It's been years ago, but I remember my Cartech kit came with a check valve to use between the intake and wg. If it wasn't for that, what else would it have been for? I'm too young for my memory to feel this old hehe.

Millhouse, how do you get quicker spool going with the intake method?
With the wastegate seeing vacuum it will hold the pressure shut until the manifold sees boost....otherwise, the wastegate will slowly begin to open almost immediately after seeing boost when referenced to the compressor inlet. This is also helpful between shifts, as the wastegate will snap shut quicker allowing less boost loss. Again, not everyone runs it this way....but many do. I've been running my t3's with diaphragm operated wastegate actuators for over 3 years with no issues....and these are units with likely over 100k miles on them (which were originally referenced off of the compressor only).
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post #23 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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ive got my compressor housing off, anyone know if this boss is a good place to tap?


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post #24 of 24 Old 04-12-2009, 09:47 PM
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i had the same problems with my sparkplug wire protectors...here is what i did,
Stick a needle nose pliers inside the top of the boot where that metal ring is and expand it out. Now im not sure if yours will do what mine did, but my ring broke inside and i just poked it through the insulator and fed it through and pulled it out. Then the insulators would slide on. Now, to hold the insulators in place, you can do one or two things. Either take some wire and wrap it around on the outside or take the ring you pulled out and just squeeze it with a pliers to clamp it back on. I also eliminated this altogether on most of the insulators by adjusting my wire seperators so they would only allow the insulators to slide back so far.
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