Question about a 2003 Mach 1 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 32 Old 05-26-2019, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Question about a 2003 Mach 1

Hello,
I have the chance to buy a 03 Mach 1. It runs but it has knocking. The body is probably a 8/10 only has clear coat peeling. The interior is also very nice just normal wear. Has close too 100k miles and I talked him down too 3200. Is the car worth it. Is fixing the engine gonna be way to much. My father can do most of the work, and also have a friend thatís a ford mechanic that will do work for much cheaper.

Also curious I was looking for after market cylinder heads and intake, but I couldnít find them. Iíve only had 94 and 95 mustangs. So I didnít know if trick flow or ford racing made those products.

I figured if I have to pull the engine that I would swap the heads, Intake, and cams, along with replacing all the bearings and gaskets.

Iím just shooting for around 400hp at the crank. I was hoping with heads, intake, cam, headers, and the rest of the bolt on stuff it might be achieved.

This hopefully will be my first 4.6 mustang. My last one was 95 gt that I built with a 331 stroker. Had to sell it when we bought a house, now itís time to get another and would like any input I could get.

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post #2 of 32 Old 05-26-2019, 10:53 PM
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Bring a diagnostic scanner and see what codes it is throwing. Maybe the seller isnt mechanical and its something basic like a coil, bad plug etc


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post #3 of 32 Old 05-26-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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That’s a good idea but what if it something simple then he would want more money or keep it lol. But is the car worth the 3200 even if I have to do engine work.
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post #4 of 32 Old 05-28-2019, 01:41 PM
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03 mach 1

In my opinion that is really not a bad price for the car and all that it came with. There's also quite a few people looking for those bodies to do a coyote swap...What color is the Mach 1? If i saw one here for that price i'd buy it. Also because of the coyoto swap thing going on now, lots of 2v and 4v motors/parts seems to be coming up for sale.

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post #5 of 32 Old 05-28-2019, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Itís red with everything else black.
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post #6 of 32 Old 05-29-2019, 08:10 AM
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If you need parts, this guy most likely has them. He's expensive but he will have what you can;t find at a conventional parts store.

https://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com
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post #7 of 32 Old 05-30-2019, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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If you need parts, this guy most likely has them. He's expensive but he will have what you can;t find at a conventional parts store.

https://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com
Thanks Iíll check it out. My buddy just gave me like 6 boxes of parts from his 04 Mach 1 he totaled last year. Fuel injectors and rails, cold air, lowering springs, drive shaft, cams, his tuner and a bunch of other stuff. I told him I havenít got the car yet. He told me if I donít do what I want with the parts.
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post #8 of 32 Old 05-31-2019, 08:11 AM
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Thanks Iíll check it out. My buddy just gave me like 6 boxes of parts from his 04 Mach 1 he totaled last year. Fuel injectors and rails, cold air, lowering springs, drive shaft, cams, his tuner and a bunch of other stuff. I told him I havenít got the car yet. He told me if I donít do what I want with the parts.
Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress if you decide to pull the trigger on the car.
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post #9 of 32 Old 05-31-2019, 02:29 PM
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Hello,
I have the chance to buy a 03 Mach 1. It runs but it has knocking. The body is probably a 8/10 only has clear coat peeling. The interior is also very nice just normal wear. Has close too 100k miles and I talked him down too 3200. Is the car worth it. Is fixing the engine gonna be way to much. My father can do most of the work, and also have a friend thatís a ford mechanic that will do work for much cheaper.

Also curious I was looking for after market cylinder heads and intake, but I couldnít find them. Iíve only had 94 and 95 mustangs. So I didnít know if trick flow or ford racing made those products.

I figured if I have to pull the engine that I would swap the heads, Intake, and cams, along with replacing all the bearings and gaskets.

Iím just shooting for around 400hp at the crank. I was hoping with heads, intake, cam, headers, and the rest of the bolt on stuff it might be achieved.

This hopefully will be my first 4.6 mustang. My last one was 95 gt that I built with a 331 stroker. Had to sell it when we bought a house, now itís time to get another and would like any input I could get.
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Thanks Iíll check it out. My buddy just gave me like 6 boxes of parts from his 04 Mach 1 he totaled last year. Fuel injectors and rails, cold air, lowering springs, drive shaft, cams, his tuner and a bunch of other stuff. I told him I havenít got the car yet. He told me if I donít do what I want with the parts.
I'd pass. By the time you rebuild the engine you could buy one with that mileage for the price you'd pay to do it especially for a shop. If not a Mach then for sure a 96-98 or 99/01 Cobra or for a real nice 2V that already runs. If it was lower miles and in better condition then maybe.

If you are dead set on it I'll answer the questions.

1 - Aftermarket heads - They don't exist because they are pointless. The stock 4V heads flow a ton from the factory. This is not like a 94/95 car where the E7 heads were hot garbage and the GT40s were just middle of the road.

2 - Swapping heads/cams/intake is also pointless. The only aftermarket intakes are sheetmetal intakes or modified stockers (short runner) or the intakes on supercharger kits. Cams can get you some gains but they are $1400 or so plus the degree kit. Again, not like the 302 pushrods, these 4V engines had really good stuff right out of the box that don't exactly need upgrading.

3 - All those parts your buddy gave you would just be spares minus the suspension stuff but that all depends what you want to do.

Again, I'd really STRONGLY suggest you buy a running car in good shape and learn the 4.6L first. Most of the car is very similar to a 94/95 as far as like... suspension/nuts/bolts but a lot of stuff is different drivetrain and electronics wise.

And if you are SUPER dead set on getting this car... just swap in a 03-05 (preferably 05) Aviator engine. Its a direct swap. Just changeover the Mustang front cover/accessories and intake plus any other Mustang specific parts and go. The only real difference is the cast crank in the Aviator vs forged in manual Machs but that is a non factor. The cast cranks are plenty strong and lighter than the forged ones.

But one last time... even with that swap...

$3200 for this car
$1000-$1500 for a real good Aviator engine
$1000-$3000 for mods/fixes you didn't know about
$2-$4k for paint

That is assuming you do all the work. $6k will buy you a real nice 96-98 Cobra or 96-04 GT. $10k is almost at high mileage Terminator money.

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

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post #10 of 32 Old 05-31-2019, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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I'd pass. By the time you rebuild the engine you could buy one with that mileage for the price you'd pay to do it especially for a shop. If not a Mach then for sure a 96-98 or 99/01 Cobra or for a real nice 2V that already runs. If it was lower miles and in better condition then maybe.

If you are dead set on it I'll answer the questions.

1 - Aftermarket heads - They don't exist because they are pointless. The stock 4V heads flow a ton from the factory. This is not like a 94/95 car where the E7 heads were hot garbage and the GT40s were just middle of the road.

2 - Swapping heads/cams/intake is also pointless. The only aftermarket intakes are sheetmetal intakes or modified stockers (short runner) or the intakes on supercharger kits. Cams can get you some gains but they are $1400 or so plus the degree kit. Again, not like the 302 pushrods, these 4V engines had really good stuff right out of the box that don't exactly need upgrading.

3 - All those parts your buddy gave you would just be spares minus the suspension stuff but that all depends what you want to do.

Again, I'd really STRONGLY suggest you buy a running car in good shape and learn the 4.6L first. Most of the car is very similar to a 94/95 as far as like... suspension/nuts/bolts but a lot of stuff is different drivetrain and electronics wise.

And if you are SUPER dead set on getting this car... just swap in a 03-05 (preferably 05) Aviator engine. Its a direct swap. Just changeover the Mustang front cover/accessories and intake plus any other Mustang specific parts and go. The only real difference is the cast crank in the Aviator vs forged in manual Machs but that is a non factor. The cast cranks are plenty strong and lighter than the forged ones.

But one last time... even with that swap...

$3200 for this car
$1000-$1500 for a real good Aviator engine
$1000-$3000 for mods/fixes you didn't know about
$2-$4k for paint

That is assuming you do all the work. $6k will buy you a real nice 96-98 Cobra or 96-04 GT. $10k is almost at high mileage Terminator money.
I really donít want anything other then a 99-04. My dad actually has a aviator with a bad transmission, instead of fixing he bought a new truck. I didnít know that about the aviator.

I only have so much to spend right now. Iíve been looking for months and every gt Iíve went and looked at turned out to be crap, they were lying about most things.

Iím not against getting a gt but Iím not paying 6000 for a almost 20 year old car thatís basically stock. Around here people are asking way to much for them. One guy has a 04 gt with 65k miles bone stock and wants 14 for it. Another 03 gt has damn near 300k miles and also stock wants 5500 for it.

The entire purpose of me getting a mustang was to fix it up over time. I was gonna buy a wrecked gt until I found this Mach 1. But I wanted a car that I could do a little bit to year after year an eventually have exactly what I wanted in a mustang.

As for the parts he gave me some are stock but a lot of them are the mods he bought and took off after he totaled the car. The cams are comp cams. Iíll actually have to look to see if they are the stock ones or if they are the after market ones he got. I know he stripped the engine down after the accident.

And thank you very much for answering the questions about the heads and intake. I really do appreciate that.

The reason for the cam upgrade is I grew up with a dad heavy into mopar, he has a 72 cuda blown. I love the cam lope and if thatís not possible with the mod engine then Iíll skip that.

But back on track lol, eventually I want to build the engine and put a supercharger on it. My end goal for completion is 5 years. That is the goal I am shooting for.

For some odd strange reason I really like the Mach 1 and really like the interior. But my dad is going with me and if he says no, my wife wonít let me get it.

As for the work on the car almost all the engine work will be done by my dad. The paint I wonít touch, tried before and it was terrible.

But who knows I look every day at mustangs for sale and I might find one before next weekend and decide on that.

I got him down to 2500 plus Iím trading one of my Kimber 1911s to him.

Sorry bout the long post and again thank you very much for your input. I do have a lot to learn about the mod engines.

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post #11 of 32 Old 06-01-2019, 01:04 AM
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I really donít want anything other then a 99-04. My dad actually has a aviator with a bad transmission, instead of fixing he bought a new truck. I didnít know that about the aviator.



I only have so much to spend right now. Iíve been looking for months and every gt Iíve went and looked at turned out to be crap, they were lying about most things.



Iím not against getting a gt but Iím not paying 6000 for a almost 20 year old car thatís basically stock. Around here people are asking way to much for them. One guy has a 04 gt with 65k miles bone stock and wants 14 for it. Another 03 gt has damn near 300k miles and also stock wants 5500 for it.



The entire purpose of me getting a mustang was to fix it up over time. I was gonna buy a wrecked gt until I found this Mach 1. But I wanted a car that I could do a little bit to year after year an eventually have exactly what I wanted in a mustang.



As for the parts he gave me some are stock but a lot of them are the mods he bought and took off after he totaled the car. The cams are comp cams. Iíll actually have to look to see if they are the stock ones or if they are the after market ones he got. I know he stripped the engine down after the accident.



And thank you very much for answering the questions about the heads and intake. I really do appreciate that.



The reason for the cam upgrade is I grew up with a dad heavy into mopar, he has a 72 cuda blown. I love the cam lope and if thatís not possible with the mod engine then Iíll skip that.



But back on track lol, eventually I want to build the engine and put a supercharger on it. My end goal for completion is 5 years. That is the goal I am shooting for.



For some odd strange reason I really like the Mach 1 and really like the interior. But my dad is going with me and if he says no, my wife wonít let me get it.



As for the work on the car almost all the engine work will be done by my dad. The paint I wonít touch, tried before and it was terrible.



But who knows I look every day at mustangs for sale and I might find one before next weekend and decide on that.



I got him down to 2500 plus Iím trading one of my Kimber 1911s to him.



Sorry bout the long post and again thank you very much for your input. I do have a lot to learn about the mod engines.
So with the Aviator in the yard and an even lower price , plus trading a gun that's laying around it seems to be a deal you cant pass up.

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post #12 of 32 Old 06-01-2019, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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So with the Aviator in the yard and an even lower price , plus trading a gun that's laying around it seems to be a deal you cant pass up.

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Thatís if my dad would even let me get the motor from him. My younger sister just turned 16 and Iím guessing sheís going to get it. I guess I could buy a junker for her lol.

It now all depends on if this guy has been truthful. He says he hasnít drove it since the knocking started but really how many people are being fully truthful when trying to sell a car and not lose their shirt on it.

Is the 4v that much better then the 2v or is it about the same block with different heads.

Regardless of if I get the Mach 1 or end up with a gt I figured it would be a better idea to get another engine or block eventually and put it on the stand and build it so I could still drive whatever I get.
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post #13 of 32 Old 06-01-2019, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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So with the Aviator in the yard and an even lower price , plus trading a gun that's laying around it seems to be a deal you cant pass up.

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Canít tell if sarcastic or you think Iím full of poopy which is completely ok.

But here are some photos. The pic is my brothers and sisters at my house few falls ago. Iím 30 years older then my youngest brother. You can see the aviator sitting in my driveway.
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post #14 of 32 Old 06-01-2019, 03:41 PM
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Canít tell if sarcastic or you think Iím full of poopy which is completely ok.



But here are some photos. The pic is my brothers and sisters at my house few falls ago. Iím 30 years older then my youngest brother. You can see the aviator sitting in my driveway.
There was no sarcasm there at all. You have been looking a long time and it seems like just the deal for you. Pull the trigger. .

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post #15 of 32 Old 06-01-2019, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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There was no sarcasm there at all. You have been looking a long time and it seems like just the deal for you. Pull the trigger. .

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Thanks for clarifying, but even if you were Iíd be ok with it because if someone said they just happened to have access to the exact engine needed, Iíd think they were full of poop.

But I was wrong on the Mach 1, it is not knocking itís a slight tick. With these engines no idea what it could be, itís all new to me. He told me it would cost 500 to fix. If he says 500 Iím guessing closer to a grand lol.

But I told him I would take it and now Iím trying to get my uncles trailer and have my dad pull it. I canít drive with a trailer for #### and itís a 3 hr drive to get it.
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post #16 of 32 Old 06-02-2019, 09:04 AM
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Tick could be the heads=head replacement=$$$

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #17 of 32 Old 06-02-2019, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Tick could be the heads=head replacement=$$$
True but I would think a tick is better then a knock.

Also the trailer I was gonna use got stolen in the middle of the night last night. Now Iím scrambling to find a way to get it home. Could up my AAA memebership and then have them do it for free but that would seem suspicious though. A car transport quoted me 600.

Does anyone know if normal tow truck companies haul cars. Itís 138 miles away, I could drive it home but not going to risk any further damage. Going to bring it home and take it right to the ford dealership to run full diagnostics on it.
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post #18 of 32 Old 06-02-2019, 11:11 PM
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U haul rents car trailers for 60 bucks a day .

Clowns to the left of me , jokers to the right ......
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post #19 of 32 Old 06-03-2019, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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U haul rents car trailers for 60 bucks a day .
I have a Ford Explorer and u haul wonít rent me one and my wife has a Jeep, neither are really capable of pulling it safely.

I should clarify that because I have a explorer u haul will not, they have a policy against it.

Edit- problem solved I upgraded my AAA road side membership to premier and now I can get 1 tow up to 200 miles for free and 3 other tows at 100 miles.

Going to bring her home Thursday.

Question my buddy gave me his tuner off his Mach 1. Can I use that on mine. Obviously his tunes wonít work but can I go to their website and get new ones.
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post #20 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 11:25 AM
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As long as he unmarries the tuner then yes.

Bring it home, get a good replacement engine and then swap the engine and drive it a bit before you do anything else. Don't go spend a much of money on #### before you know everything else is good.

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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As long as he unmarries the tuner then yes.

Bring it home, get a good replacement engine and then swap the engine and drive it a bit before you do anything else. Don't go spend a much of money on #### before you know everything else is good.
Not going to swap anything until I have it looked at. If itís just the timing chain or something like that itís not worth swapping. I mean sure if itís gonna cost me 2k to fix it then damn right swap.

Question, does long tube headers from a gt work on a Mach 1 or is it different.
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post #22 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 03:15 PM
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9x out of 10 the ticking you hear is usually on startup and goes away as the engines lubes itself. It is a very common failure on the 4v engines.

It is due to people running the wrong oil filter. The motorcraft oil filter has an anti drain back valve in it so when you start the engine it is already lubed. All others do not and will eventually cause engine damage.

i have an 03 marauder all original with 258k miles on it which is the same engine in the mach 1. Its had nothing but motorcraft filters and dealer servicing since new. A couple years ago at 232k miles I let a friend use it and he took it upon himself to do an oil change and put an stp filter on it. When I got the car back and started it up it had a knock. I immediately put a motorcraft on it but the damage was already done the timing chain tensioners were broken. When replacing them use the metal tensioners with the gear lock not the junk plastic stock type.

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post #23 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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I just talked to the guy again and asked exactly what the garage told him. They said itís either the timing chain or cam phaser and couldnít tell him which without tearing stuff down.

So hmmmm offer him 600 less lol
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post #24 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 05:32 PM
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Lmao, there is no cam phaser in a 4V.

So basically retards looked at it. I'll guess a spun rod bearing or one of the pistons is toast.

Swap the engine.


To answer your longtube question, no the ports are different.

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Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #25 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 05:34 PM
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9x out of 10 the ticking you hear is usually on startup and goes away as the engines lubes itself. It is a very common failure on the 4v engines.

It is due to people running the wrong oil filter. The motorcraft oil filter has an anti drain back valve in it so when you start the engine it is already lubed. All others do not and will eventually cause engine damage.

i have an 03 marauder all original with 258k miles on it which is the same engine in the mach 1. Its had nothing but motorcraft filters and dealer servicing since new. A couple years ago at 232k miles I let a friend use it and he took it upon himself to do an oil change and put an stp filter on it. When I got the car back and started it up it had a knock. I immediately put a motorcraft on it but the damage was already done the timing chain tensioners were broken. When replacing them use the metal tensioners with the gear lock not the junk plastic stock type.
Pretty sure your "friend" used a completely wrong filter. I've never heard of this and I've used a ton of different filters on the 4V. Only use Napa/Wix currently and 0 issues.

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #26 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Lmao, there is no cam phaser in a 4V.

So basically retards looked at it. I'll guess a spun rod bearing or one of the pistons is toast.

Swap the engine.


To answer your longtube question, no the ports are different.
Well #### Iím glad to know that. Ford garage wanted an additional 250 to change the phaser when they were doing the timing chain. Looks like they said #### fellas we got a dip#### here, letís just take his money.

Is there a book or something I can get to read to become more knowledgeable about the Mach 1.

Also if I do replace the engine I was thinking about taking the old one and putting it on a stand and tear it down and learn that way too.

But again thanks for not letting me get taken for ford garage.
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post #27 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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I have a video of the car and itís making a weird noise, itís not imo a knock or a tick.

Here is the video

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post #28 of 32 Old 06-07-2019, 09:35 PM
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Pretty sure your "friend" used a completely wrong filter. I've never heard of this and I've used a ton of different filters on the 4V. Only use Napa/Wix currently and 0 issues.
I'm glad I could teach you something new.

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post #29 of 32 Old 06-08-2019, 11:42 AM
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Yep, all those ppl running non-motorcraft filters with destroyed engines...

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #30 of 32 Old 06-11-2019, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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On top of the timing chain, cylinder 2 blew out the spark plug an melted the coil and stripped the threading. The coil was what was making the noise. It was slapping the valve cover. Fudge this sucks.
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post #31 of 32 Old 06-11-2019, 07:27 AM
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That’s really not a big deal. A competent machine shop can repair the spark plug threads without pulling the cylinder head. If these are the worst of your problems, you’ve done good.
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post #32 of 32 Old 06-13-2019, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Cost me 1300 to have the helicoil put in, change the spark plugs, oil, put on new valve cover gasket and replace 1 coil.

Price parts breakdown

Valve cover gasket - 97
Coil ford oem -78
Oil 7 qt of royal purple 92
8 oem motor craft plugs - 100
Motor craft oil filter - 12.99

Pretty sure I got bent over on parts

Then 370 to change valve cover
100 to do the heli coil
170 to change the plugs and do the coil
29.99 for changing the oil

And a few other things too.

Oh taking the valve cover off he had to unhook the clutch cable then tried to charge me to find the problem because the clutch wouldnít engage. I put my foot down on that.

So about 400 in parts and 900 in labor.

Ahhhhhh pretty sure I got bent over.

But she is running great and Iím happy.

Found out the car has a x pipe and magnaflow mufflers.
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