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post #1 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Coyote swap.....

So I am giving this some serious thought. I would like to hear from guys that have done it into a 96-98 cobra. I want to put a complete parts list together to see what Iím getting into. I do have a couple questions right off the top.
1- can I use my T45 with 26 spline input? Does the bell bolt up to the coyote block?
2- i have a T-trim ccw set up on my cobra now. Can i use this set up on the coyote if the proper brackets and piping are used?
3- what are my exhaust options? I see swap headers are available, but can the stock coyote manifolds be used in the sn95? Does anyone make a midpipe that bolts to the stock coyote manifolds?


96 cobra built shortblock, T-trim 17psi,
meth injection, NX Express wet kit 70hp,
and some other crap
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post #2 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 11:54 PM
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Don't mean to make you sway from this swap but, you have an engine that when built right could handle a ton of power, then with a t-trim you could easily make over 7-800rwhp. So why bother swapping to an engine that could make the same power with a more modification than what you could spend on making your engine a beast. Let's do some figures, you could get a first gen for around 1500+ 1500 for the computer, because you cannot use yours, 900 for exhaust for BBK headers and x-pipe, 1500 for the other companies. Then minimum 2500 for supercharger bracket, then 800 for pbh accessories bracket. So your looking at roughly 7-8k for a coyote swap. I could build one wicked first gen. mod motor and up grade to a tko or t56 transmission for that...

But if you still thinking about the coyote swap here's a run down on your questions you asked.

First, yes you can use the bell housing and transmission with the coyote.

Second, you wold have to get a hole new supercharger bracket and plumbing. The reason, the coyote timing cover is totally different from that of the first gen mod motor. And, the reason for the piping, is location is different as well.it is no longer mounted reverse, most centerfug. superchargers are located off to the side like that of the pushrod motors.

Third, there are three manufacturers that make long tube headers and x-pipes. Just look for the ones listed for 79'-04'. You will have to run a tubular k-member on all of them. As for the factory headers, you could modify them and then possibly use a modified shorty header h/x- pipe setup. Look up some information for coyote swap for fox body, since they are basically the same vehicle and you can get an idea. Sean hyland used the factory headers on a swap and it was documented in a couple magazines.

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post #3 of 36 Old 02-19-2018, 08:16 AM
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^ agreed.

Stroke it or go BB Stroker

2005+ 4.6 blocks can be used directly as well as Teksid or even the 03-04 WAP blocks.

The BB WAP block is the strongest when resleeved... according to Livernois.

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post #4 of 36 Old 03-06-2018, 08:20 AM
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Question

I'm just starting to collect parts for a coyote swap, but I'd be OK with a 4.6 DOHC. I've found Aviator motors in the junk yard and they aren't too expensive. What would be needed to build a 4.6 DOHC that makes 360-400 whp?
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post #5 of 36 Old 03-06-2018, 06:25 PM
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First, you realize that coyote parts and 4.6 motors don't mix, other than accessories if you run the pbr kit. Second to make a 4.6 make 400rwhp, you could do a stroker kit, defiantly port the heads, then put at least stage 3 cams, run a 10.5:1 compression. But, it all depends on what you are putting it in and what are you going to do with it.

If it where I, I would get an aluminator. Supercharger it, You can find used setups for sale all over for cheap. Throw in a 5/6speed and have fun.
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post #6 of 36 Old 03-07-2018, 12:34 PM
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Yes, I know. There's a few Aviator motors around here for $1000. That would probably put down 260-280 hp to the wheels. I'm just going to start with a used '11-'14 or '15-'17 5.0 F150 engine. They're about a $1000 more, but I think I'll get closer to 350-380 hp to the wheels. I know I'm not mentioning the control pack or a trans. It'll all add up.

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post #7 of 36 Old 03-07-2018, 06:01 PM
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Ok, remember that there is two different generations of the coyote. 11'- 14' gen1; 15'- 17' gen2. I would go gen1 is a hole lot easier than the gen2's if you are going with the f150 route and cheaper! Find some of the post that I have commented on and you will see what I'm talking about.
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post #8 of 36 Old 03-07-2018, 08:25 PM
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I'll rethink the '11-'14 Gen I Vs. '15-'17 Gen II. MMR has all four '11-'14 cams for $600.

'88 5.0 GT hatch AOD 3.08
stock 302, Ed Curtis cam & 11R 190 heads,
Holley SM2, 320 hp 332 tq to the wheels
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post #9 of 36 Old 03-07-2018, 10:00 PM
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You can get them cheaper directly from ford. Spent $250 for all four.
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post #10 of 36 Old 03-08-2018, 08:08 AM
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Nice! Thanks for the info.


'88 5.0 GT hatch AOD 3.08
stock 302, Ed Curtis cam & 11R 190 heads,
Holley SM2, 320 hp 332 tq to the wheels
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post #11 of 36 Old 10-16-2018, 12:54 AM
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resurected.
I'm investigating what it takes to put a Gen3 DI coyote into my 98 cobra.

My understanding is that the motor will bolt into the k-member and bellhousing, and that I'll need a control pack.

Somebody said a tubular k is required, can anyone verify this?

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post #12 of 36 Old 10-16-2018, 07:11 AM
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resurected.
I'm investigating what it takes to put a Gen3 DI coyote into my 98 cobra.

My understanding is that the motor will bolt into the k-member and bellhousing, and that I'll need a control pack.

Somebody said a tubular k is required, can anyone verify this?
A Coyote will bolt right up to your factory K-member and existing transmission. A tubular K-member is not required, but not using one will narrow your choice of headers that will actually fit your car.
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post #13 of 36 Old 10-16-2018, 08:43 AM
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PowerNationTV did a coyote swap in a 90's chassis. Check it out, it might help you if you are really going through with the swap.
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post #14 of 36 Old 10-16-2018, 10:12 PM
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Thanks Zen and Todd.

Additional questions:
1. Will the stock 98 cobra fuel system support a gen3 coyote?

2. Will the cruise control still work? (I know nothing about CC)

3. Will my stock ps and AC pumps fit on the coyote? Does the coyote come with its own accessory brackets or do I have to buy those?

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Last edited by P63; 10-17-2018 at 10:31 PM.
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post #15 of 36 Old 10-17-2018, 11:13 PM
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I'm just starting to collect parts for a coyote swap, but I'd be OK with a 4.6 DOHC. I've found Aviator motors in the junk yard and they aren't too expensive. What would be needed to build a 4.6 DOHC that makes 360-400 whp?

You can make 360-370 RWHP, with a stock stroke/stock bore 4v 4.6.
11:1 compression, With unported stock C heads (03-04 preferred), stock 96-98 cams (properly degreed), ported intake, exhaust etc.
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post #16 of 36 Old 10-18-2018, 07:47 AM
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I ended up doing heads, a cam and intake on my stock shortblock. I made 320 hp through a stock AOD and converter. I'm thinking about a 4.6 4V with a forged bottom ends for boost next.

'88 5.0 GT hatch AOD 3.08
stock 302, Ed Curtis cam & 11R 190 heads,
Holley SM2, 320 hp 332 tq to the wheels
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post #17 of 36 Old 10-18-2018, 08:08 AM
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Have you thought about looking for a wrecked donar car with light rear end damage. You might want to see if you could find one especially if you could get one with a 6-speed manual. I have a 6-Speed in my Challenger and it's a blast to drive it, way better than the 5-speed in the Mustang I owned.
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post #18 of 36 Old 10-19-2018, 12:41 AM
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Have you thought about looking for a wrecked donar car with light rear end damage. You might want to see if you could find one especially if you could get one with a 6-speed manual. I have a 6-Speed in my Challenger and it's a blast to drive it, way better than the 5-speed in the Mustang I owned.

I'm tempted by the convenience aspect of buying a donor car, and I might very well go that route.
I'm not sure the mt-82 fits in our cars though.
Another consideration: buying a crate engine from one of the well-known resellers means I'll get a two year warranty.

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post #19 of 36 Old 10-19-2018, 12:47 AM
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You can make 360-370 RWHP, with a stock stroke/stock bore 4v 4.6.
11:1 compression, With unported stock C heads (03-04 preferred), stock 96-98 cams (properly degreed), ported intake, exhaust etc.
Well, the thread is titled "Coyote swap", but let's entertain the notion of keeping the 4.6.
1. What is the cost of building up a 4.6 to 370 RWHP?
2. What is the driveability of such a motor, and will it work with pump gas?
3. Will this engine be smog legal?
4. Is part of this 370 rwhp gained by having a loud exhaust, while the 390 rwhp coyote has its excellent, well-mannered rumble?

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post #20 of 36 Old 12-22-2018, 09:32 AM
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I am collecting parts for a Coyote swap now, starting and finishing before I have to get a job again on March 6th. I will be installing it into a 2002 ranger SCSB and using a Holley Dominator EFI set up. I will end up building my own headers since nobody makes them and there is no room.

Future plans include turbocharging it after I get a handle on the tuning of the Coyote. Transmission is a built 4r70w with a PTC 9.5" converter (lock up) and a dry shot of nitrous. Hoping to get this truck to run high tens and be real streetable. Only drawback is I have to go to an under dash air system since the air conditioning box is in the engine compartment and hits the motor by 3.5".
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post #21 of 36 Old 12-23-2018, 07:14 PM
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I am collecting parts for a Coyote swap now, starting and finishing before I have to get a job again on March 6th. I will be installing it into a 2002 ranger SCSB and using a Holley Dominator EFI set up. I will end up building my own headers since nobody makes them and there is no room.

Future plans include turbocharging it after I get a handle on the tuning of the Coyote. Transmission is a built 4r70w with a PTC 9.5" converter (lock up) and a dry shot of nitrous. Hoping to get this truck to run high tens and be real streetable. Only drawback is I have to go to an under dash air system since the air conditioning box is in the engine compartment and hits the motor by 3.5".
https://www.vintageair.com/

They will make a system that will fit just about anything.

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Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
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post #22 of 36 Old 12-24-2018, 11:50 PM
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The coyote is a great swap. However it is expensive. As stated above you can build a 4.6 with the supercharger you have and out run the stock coyote. A stock 2v with springs will make 375 to the wheels on 8#. you can daily drive this and run low 12s.

Buy used forged parts and put them in an aviator 4v and you will make close to 475.
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post #23 of 36 Old 12-26-2018, 03:43 PM
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The coyote is a great swap. However it is expensive. As stated above you can build a 4.6 with the supercharger you have and out run the stock coyote. A stock 2v with springs will make 375 to the wheels on 8#. you can daily drive this and run low 12s.

Buy used forged parts and put them in an aviator 4v and you will make close to 475.
A stock Coyote with a tune will assrape a 375rwhp 2V.

Coyote swap is not as expensive as it was originally, the motor is actually the cheap part with all the F150 motors in wrecked trucks now. The control harness, exhaust and misc parts are more and still won't run you as much as an engine build and a blower.

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #24 of 36 Old 12-26-2018, 07:26 PM
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Prove it. I own both. The 2014 ran a pitiful 13.70. The 2001 ran 12.4. Even the 500# difference won't make up over a 1.3 second difference. Both stock AT and gears. The coyote has a way better trans ratio as well.
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post #25 of 36 Old 12-31-2018, 01:06 PM
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Stock AT/converter and 3.27s on the 2V? I'll take "things that didn't happen for $800 Alex".

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #26 of 36 Old 03-16-2019, 12:39 PM
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Stock AT/converter and 3.27s on the 2V? I'll take "things that didn't happen for $800 Alex".



Does anyone know if the gen3 driver side cat will clear a stock k-member.

(Thanks to all those who mention alternatives, but I am interested in a coyote swap.)

Can anyone recommend a nationwide junkyard source?

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post #27 of 36 Old 03-16-2019, 08:16 PM
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I bought a coyote off car-parts.com back in 2014. Suffice to say they are much cheaper now.

IMO its not worth it to swap a coyote in to the older stangs it just doesn't make sense the value isn't there.

You can do what one of my shop guys did. He bought a parted out 2012 gt shell for $1500 bare.
Already had a t-boned & totaled 2011 for 6k.

Swapped everything from the 2011 on the 2012 roller. Been driving it for years now with no problems. With less than 8k invested total. You cannot even buy all the little pieces parts for the coyote swap for that price.
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post #28 of 36 Old 03-17-2019, 04:43 PM
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Thanks for the info.
I'll give car-parts.com a gander.

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post #29 of 36 Old 04-11-2019, 08:25 PM
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Update: I spoke to a local Mustang garage owner who loves the 4.6 and won't do coyote swaps. He ballparked $6k to install a stroker kit, freshen the heads, and install IMRC eliminators (illegal). I don't know if a tune is included in this price. So four valves ingesting atmosphere with IMRC elims that everyone assures don't cost low end torque... has anyone seen a dyno chart that proves this?

At any rate, A brand new gen3 is $8.2k, add a $700 accessory bracket, flywheel (I guess), $1.6k control pack, a flywheel, and cats(?).
Do the stock headers mate with the sn95 h-pipe?
What is a good flywheel to use?
Am I overlooking anything?

BTW, since this thread is about coyote swaps, let's please don't try to debate 4.6 vs coyote. It's more appropriate to do that in a thread titled "4.6 vs coyote". Just sayin.

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post #30 of 36 Old 04-14-2019, 10:38 AM
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You're missing headers, 4.6 won't work, and h/x pipe. No your pipe won't work. Don't know which transmission you are using, but factory piece won't last long so you will need a built 6 speed. And then you need a flywheel/clutch. If you are dead set on a coyote look for a gen1 f150 swap out the oil pump, intake cams, swap to 2019 gen 3 intake. You will be in for far less than $5k and be around 400hp. Don't forget a cold air intake kit. It's not as cheap as everyone thinks.
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post #31 of 36 Old 04-15-2019, 05:18 AM
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4.6l 2v headers re-flanged for coyote heads will work. Port spacing is identical. 4v headers will work too, but look for a little bit more work cause of the oval exhaust ports and header tube entry.
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Thanks, 2vBoss and Lx5.4

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post #33 of 36 Old 04-15-2019, 11:33 PM
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Thanks for the info.
I'll give car-parts.com a gander.
I've been browsing car-part.com myself recently. Although the '11-14 F150 Coyotes are all supposed to be Gen 1 (and thus would presumably be interchangeable), on car-part they list the '14s separately. So make sure you search for '11-13, and then for '14, to ensure you get all the results. (Assuming, of course, that you're looking for a Gen 1. If not, disregard. )

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Why not just sell your car and buy a clean Gen1 Coyote? They are like $16k nowadays... It would probably be about the same cost to you out of pocket in the end or possibly cheaper...

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #35 of 36 Old 04-18-2019, 10:54 PM
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Why not just sell your car and buy a clean Gen1 Coyote? They are like $16k nowadays... It would probably be about the same cost to you out of pocket in the end or possibly cheaper...
[email protected] you for being right.



That's something to really consider. I'd get a real suspension, a safer, more enjoyable car, and something that would already be "finished".
... except for the twin turbos I'd install. j/k


The car isn't transportation, though, it's a hobby. That said, I am keeping an eye on 2018 GTs.

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