Vortech S-Trim rebuild instructions inside - Page 5 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #141 of 291 Old 12-28-2008, 07:39 PM
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The links to bearings and seals not working. Anybody else know where to source these?

Are the high-speed bearings that expensive, over $150?
According to this link its $198: http://bearingsdirect.com/store/inde...t_detail&p=515

My S-Trim appears to be leaking oil and ending up in my discharge tube to throttle body. How difficult is just changing this seal?
This would be the compressor seal, correct?


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post #142 of 291 Old 12-28-2008, 09:46 PM
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I can get them a bit cheaper... I work for one of the bearing distributors mentioned in the first post. Let me know what parts you need and I'll PM you a price.


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post #143 of 291 Old 12-29-2008, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1trkpny View Post
The links to bearings and seals not working. Anybody else know where to source these?

Are the high-speed bearings that expensive, over $150?
According to this link its $198: http://bearingsdirect.com/store/inde...t_detail&p=515

My S-Trim appears to be leaking oil and ending up in my discharge tube to throttle body. How difficult is just changing this seal?
This would be the compressor seal, correct?
If its your output shaft seal leaking into your discharge tube than you might have an issue with crankcase backpressure from blowby or incorrect routing of PVC system. Excessive crankcase pressure can travel up the S/C drain tube and make that seal leak. If you need to change that seal everything must come apart to get to it so a bearing refresh would be smart. You may also damage the bearings when disasembling the S/C.

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post #144 of 291 Old 12-29-2008, 12:22 AM
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If its your output shaft seal leaking into your discharge tube than you might have an issue with crankcase backpressure from blowby or incorrect routing of PVC system. Excessive crankcase pressure can travel up the S/C drain tube and make that seal leak. If you need to change that seal everything must come apart to get to it so a bearing refresh would be smart. You may also damage the bearings when disasembling the S/C.
Even if I run an open breather setup (no pcv)? Wouldn't the excess pressure go out the valve cover breather?

I just replace my head gasket because number 2 cylinder had zero compression (HG pushed in towards lifter valley).

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post #145 of 291 Old 12-29-2008, 12:58 AM
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That should keep the PCV system from closing under boost, but you may still need to vent the other valve cover.

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post #146 of 291 Old 08-25-2009, 01:06 AM
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What does the nut on the compressor housing need to be torqued to? Does anyone have the torque specs including the case?

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post #147 of 291 Old 09-08-2009, 04:19 PM
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Where are you guys getting these seals??? I have tried all over ?????

91 Silver coupe KC B50 331 Tremec, AFR 185's Track Heat intake, Aeromotive fuel system, 50 pound injectors PMS Vortech t-trim yadeda And I wonder why I cant move out?
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post #148 of 291 Old 09-08-2009, 08:26 PM
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WTF, superchargerrebuild.com wants $90 for these seals. the price list out at $4 each...

91 Silver coupe KC B50 331 Tremec, AFR 185's Track Heat intake, Aeromotive fuel system, 50 pound injectors PMS Vortech t-trim yadeda And I wonder why I cant move out?
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post #149 of 291 Old 09-20-2009, 09:16 PM
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Bumpasaurus. Have a question about the SKF 7003CD bearings. Are they the same crappy design as the ones Vortech uses? I mean there is plastic or some sort of carbon material inside the bearing holding the balls in place.

Also the part numbers for the seals, are they for the rubber seals for the S-Trim? What are the part number for the carbon seals for the SQ trim?
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post #150 of 291 Old 11-01-2009, 01:50 PM
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ok i have had the low speed side bearing come apart in the case and only the race remains...

any ideas on how to remove it?



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post #151 of 291 Old 11-02-2009, 12:23 AM
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ok i have had the low speed side bearing come apart in the case and only the race remains...

any ideas on how to remove it?

Heat the out side of the case just where the race is with a propane torch. and the race should fall out with a couple taps of a hammer on the back side.


If that dont work, sounds odd. But you can weld a bead all the way around the inside of the race. When it cools the race will literally full out.

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post #152 of 291 Old 11-02-2009, 04:47 PM
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thanks!..i took my dremel and cut two slits in the race and then it just poped out with ease.
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post #153 of 291 Old 06-15-2010, 05:41 PM
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hello friends! I am really curious, that have the higher models of vortech for example V7, V9, V20 the same bearings like V1 and V2?
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post #154 of 291 Old 06-16-2010, 12:33 AM
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post #155 of 291 Old 06-16-2010, 05:11 AM
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Yes, I am asking, because my friend can buy two bigger (I suppose V6 and V9) vortech superchargers very cheap, and he doesn't know, he can buy the rebuild parts without problems (like for small V1 or V2 superchargers)???? If the parts (bearings, seals) are the same, he will be very enjoy
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post #156 of 291 Old 06-17-2010, 07:22 AM
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Yes, I am asking, because my friend can buy two bigger (I suppose V6 and V9) vortech superchargers very cheap, and he doesn't know, he can buy the rebuild parts without problems (like for small V1 or V2 superchargers)???? If the parts (bearings, seals) are the same, he will be very enjoy
The bigger blowers use a ceramic low speed deep groove ball bearing while the high speed side uses a ceramic bearing also but an angular contact like all the V1 and V2s. I have the numbers for a V7 somewhere, I will see of I can find them.

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post #157 of 291 Old 06-17-2010, 04:17 PM
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ok, hope you still remember, thank you in advance friend!
Also I found very good kit for small vortech:

EBAY Item number: 270595247673

I know this seller, he made rebuild in my friend's eu eaton in Mercedes SLK. Friend is enjoy... But I am not sure this kit fits in bigger vortechs :/
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post #158 of 291 Old 06-17-2010, 04:43 PM
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I'm going to take the pludge and re-do the seals myself. Including the main case one between the volute and gear case.

Does anyone know what to torque the impeller nut to?

Since the unit is a low mile unit will I need a "speedy race" the shop that offered to rebuild it for me said I may need one.

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post #159 of 291 Old 06-17-2010, 08:54 PM
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I'm going to take the pludge and re-do the seals myself. Including the main case one between the volute and gear case.

Does anyone know what to torque the impeller nut to?

Since the unit is a low mile unit will I need a "speedy race" the shop that offered to rebuild it for me said I may need one.
It will depend on what output shaft seal it has, The older viton seal wears a groove in the shaft over time but if it has the newer mechanical seal then you shouldn't have to worry about needing a "speedy sleeve". If it has a mechanical seal you can take the seal and have it lapped instead of replacing it, Look around for a John Crane shop because they repair mechanical seals and also make some of the best seals on the market. If it's a lip seal then look the shaft over real well and make sure the wear surface is clean and undamaged, Check with Gerhardt Inc. for a lip seal.

The real reason that we can't have the Ten Commandments posted in a courthouse is this:
You cannot post 'Thou Shalt Not Steal,' 'Thou Shalt Not Commit Adultery,' and 'Thou Shall Not Lie' in a building full of lawyers, judges and politicians...It creates a hostile work environment.

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post #160 of 291 Old 06-17-2010, 09:52 PM
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AWESOME THREAD! this should be a sticky, mods! thanks for the info guys.

replaced the 93'ish coupe with a 76 F100, 393, 11.5:1, TEA CNC 205 TW's, custom Hyd Roller, Super Vic, 830 HP, AOD, Edge custom conv., Silverfox SPT-MAC-TB.
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post #161 of 291 Old 06-21-2010, 10:36 AM
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so I will buy this kit from ebay, hope will be good
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post #162 of 291 Old 06-27-2010, 02:42 PM
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I bought kit form top-gear-center (ebay account name), came quick. Parts are excellent, the same like you described here in this rebuild topic. NSK super precision bearings, SKF oem bearings and german viton seals. I paid only USD 220 for all
Thank you guys for help!
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post #163 of 291 Old 06-27-2010, 10:59 PM
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Post pics of install PLEASE. I need to do this badly. Also what do you torque the impeller nut to?

Matt, 90' GT 347, 6037 heads, V1 Si-trim, 11psi, B31 Cam, T56, SV Intake, BE/Tweecer Tuned. 550rwhp 513tq
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post #164 of 291 Old 06-27-2010, 11:17 PM
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Post pics of install PLEASE. I need to do this badly. Also what do you torque the impeller nut to?
The tq on the impeller nut is 35ft lbs.

The real reason that we can't have the Ten Commandments posted in a courthouse is this:
You cannot post 'Thou Shalt Not Steal,' 'Thou Shalt Not Commit Adultery,' and 'Thou Shall Not Lie' in a building full of lawyers, judges and politicians...It creates a hostile work environment.

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post #165 of 291 Old 06-28-2010, 03:15 PM
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So is it true that it has to be re balanced or is that a myth?

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post #166 of 291 Old 06-28-2010, 07:43 PM
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So is it true that it has to be re balanced or is that a myth?
Well I suppose it is but before I pull it apart I mark the shaft and impeller so I can line them back up the way they came apart, I have never had a problem with one doing it this way.

The real reason that we can't have the Ten Commandments posted in a courthouse is this:
You cannot post 'Thou Shalt Not Steal,' 'Thou Shalt Not Commit Adultery,' and 'Thou Shall Not Lie' in a building full of lawyers, judges and politicians...It creates a hostile work environment.
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post #167 of 291 Old 06-30-2010, 03:31 AM
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parts are great, I will send you pic asap. Also seller asked me befor purchase to getting the coated seals. I didn't want. I have bought normal double lipped viton seals, not coated. Is it good choice?
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post #168 of 291 Old 07-07-2010, 12:00 PM
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Where would be the cheapest place to get these parts from? I have a V-2 on a 2006 Mustang Gt.
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post #169 of 291 Old 07-14-2010, 04:21 AM
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simply contact the seller, who has got name on ebay:
top-gear-center
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post #170 of 291 Old 08-26-2010, 09:18 PM
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This thread is the sex. I'm in the market for a used Vortech kit and I would want to do a rebuild on anything I got, even one with a "working" headunit. So with one of those kits I can just bust it down, and build it right back up and be good to go? Provided there is no impeller damage obviously...

Also the original link is down...

edit: NM, read the whole thread and got the link. THANKS!

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post #171 of 291 Old 03-26-2011, 03:50 PM
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I just replaced the leaking input shaft seal on my T trim Vortech. Will have pics up soon.
post #172 of 291 Old 07-26-2011, 12:13 AM
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great thread!!!awsome info!!!!

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post #173 of 291 Old 09-10-2011, 01:59 PM
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I just sent my S-trim V1 back to vortech for a rebuild. The bearing behind the belt pulley started going bad and had some play. They said as long as the impellar was not rubbing on the housing and the gears inside were ok then it should be an easy rebuild. Im a tech for a living, over 10 years now so I know what to look for when it comes to things like this and I looked at the impellar and housing and there was no play in the impeller and no marks at all on the housing if it was rubbing. Vortech called me back and basically said my whole unit was junk except for the internal gears. Complete housing, bearings, impellar was rubbing on the housing and wore it down. All that was bad. Only my gears are good. $1050.00 to repair. Im wondering if they trying to screw me. They said when they try and put a new bearing in the housing that it is loose and doesnt fit right. And I know my impellar was not touching anything and had no play too. They said $1200 for a new one. Thinking of rebuilding it myself but have to pay the $100 teardown fee they dont tell you about and they take the chance what they told me was wrong which in that case I could let them keep the junk. What do you guys think?
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post #174 of 291 Old 09-10-2011, 08:28 PM
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Call them back and see if they can upgrade it to the newer V3SI? Otherwise pay them the $100 and rebuild it yourself. It's not hard and I personally think their specs for wear are on the 'overly cautious' side. Everything they get in for a bearing is 'junk'

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post #175 of 291 Old 09-11-2011, 02:08 PM
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Call them back and see if they can upgrade it to the newer V3SI? Otherwise pay them the $100 and rebuild it yourself. It's not hard and I personally think their specs for wear are on the 'overly cautious' side. Everything they get in for a bearing is 'junk'
I can rebuild it without a problem. Easy for me. Just wasnt too much difference in price with me buying the bearings and stuff and them doing it so I sent it to them as I have more then enough stuff keeping me busy now. Mistake I guess. They said $1200 to upgrade to the new one but still dont want to spend that. I think I agree with you on there specs for wear. Im just hoping the housing is not bad and the bearing is loose like there trying to tell me. Gonna get it sent back and check it myself and may rebuild it. And thats what I have heard about them saying everything that gets sent in is junk.
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