Vortech S-Trim rebuild instructions inside - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #36 of 291 Old 05-27-2006, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged86
Other than build the motor and weld the cage, I do ALL my own work, so get fk'd pal.
Hold on now. What’s the deal with telling sukkoi18 to “get fk'd pal”? We are, or were, having a civilized discussion. Talking to people like that is out of line. He did not personaly attack you. I would also hate to see this thread locked.

You still haven’t answered my warranty questions. I’d like to have the warranty specifics clarified for the sake of our discussion.


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post #37 of 291 Old 05-28-2006, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Supercharged86
Other than build the motor and weld the cage, I do ALL my own work, so get fk'd pal.
The last refuge of the weak arguement, the ad hominem attack. Well at least you don't try and build your motors, all those special tools and tolerances to be observed is best left to the experts right? I wish I had your kind of trust in others.

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post #38 of 291 Old 05-29-2006, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Forced
Yikes!
yeah thats what i said when you guys quoted me a price on a minor rebuild($1300) and impellor($307).
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post #39 of 291 Old 05-30-2006, 02:09 AM
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SORRY, How do i save the PDF file to my hard drive! ( YES I KNOW I SUCK AT THE COMPUTER)



N/M figured it out! AWSOME ARTICLE!

91 Silver coupe KC B50 331 Tremec, AFR 185's Track Heat intake, Aeromotive fuel system, 50 pound injectors PMS Vortech t-trim yadeda And I wonder why I cant move out?

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post #40 of 291 Old 05-30-2006, 12:18 PM
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Vortech Guys...

I'd still like an answer for my specific warrenty questions....

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post #41 of 291 Old 05-30-2006, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Dedicated5.0
Really? Why only 6 months instead of 3 years when buying a new one? Does a minor rebuild cover ALL the parts inside the case (gears, impeller, etc...) , or just the seals and bearings. If, after 3 months, and it blows-up, does Vortech cover my entire motor that just ate bearing balls and impeller chunks? You see where I'm going here. Not to be a jerk, but I could fix 'em in my garage and warranty the seals and bearings only for 3 months.
First off, this thread shouldn't get ugly...

The 6 month warranty will only cover what was replaced. Also remember that if the blower is still under the 3 year warranty then that over rides the 6 month deal. I believe most warranties are like that. Take a car for example..when you take a car in for a tranny swap lets say..the dealer will only give so long for a warranty...not the same as the 3year/36k miles for example. Once again, this is not about name calling, I don't think you are being a jerk. From our warranty..."These warranties do not protect you from Acts of God, normal wear and tear, or damage to a vehicle or engine caused by backfire, collision and/or engine failure."
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...s/warranty.pdf

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post #42 of 291 Old 05-30-2006, 01:31 PM
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Thanks for the details.

In reality, does Vortech see more "catastrophic failures" (meaning parts and pieces exiting the blower and entering the engine) from bearing failures? Or from non-bearing related failure of the impeller due to bad bypass valves or other causes?

Also, I'm curious as to what most common cause of a "catastrophic failure" is and how often Vortech experiences them.

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post #43 of 291 Old 05-30-2006, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedicated5.0
Thanks for the details.

In reality, does Vortech see more "catastrophic failures" (meaning parts and pieces exiting the blower and entering the engine) from bearing failures? Or from non-bearing related failure of the impeller due to bad bypass valves or other causes?
Also, I'm curious as to what most common cause of a "catastrophic failure" is and how often Vortech experiences them.
Such catastrophic failures are rare...but they do happen. A bad valve or a valve that isn't big enough can cause the impeller to touch down. Sometimes the impeller will just contort...other times the blades come completely off. Other times the blower ingests something and tears the impeller apart. Some people put silicone or, teflon tape or "pipe dope" on the oil nozzle...not realizing that if that gets in the blower it could clog up the system. We have had blowers sent back with clogged oil nozzles, which leads to a big boo-boo when there is no oil in the blower.

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post #44 of 291 Old 07-20-2006, 01:15 AM
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My blower bit the big one tonight. Lucky for me I have an intercooler between it and the motor plus It hasn't been into boost with this motor.

I came across this thread and found it of great interest. It seems like you say a little patients and attention to detail and it can be done by the DIY guy.

My questions are:

What does it cost to have Vortech rebuild them? My impeller is in pieces and the shaft is loose on the impeller side and grinding so hard on the input side I couldn't start my car.

Could I buy a T-trim impeller and just install it into my S-trim? anything else needed?

I have heard everything from $350 for a rebuild to almost $2000 at Vortech.

DIY rebuild can't be much at all.

Also, where would you go to get the bearing installed?

Thanks for all the great information!

Jim
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post #45 of 291 Old 07-20-2006, 07:44 AM
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Sounds like you had one of those "rare" catastrophic failures with the impeller. If so, you won't be able to repair the blower yourself because Vortech will not sell you a new impeller. You'll have to send it to Vortech for repair.

You can't just swap the t-trim impeller either. The t-trim uses a different impeller and volute. Vortech can do the t-trim upgrade for you when they repair the blower.


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post #46 of 291 Old 07-20-2006, 09:19 AM
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Thanks for the information...Time to call Vortech
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post #47 of 291 Old 07-20-2006, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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post #48 of 291 Old 08-15-2006, 11:59 PM
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I am going to try this rebuild !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #49 of 291 Old 08-16-2006, 08:24 AM
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It's ONLY parts, that's it, no magic or smoke and mirrors. As long as the parts are the same dimensions and are rated for at least the same loads/rpm then all that's left is assembly...end of story.

I can promise you that the bearing supplier for Vortech does not sprinkle some type of 'magic dust' on the bearings. As long as you get a same dimensioned ABEC 7 rated thrust type bearing (for example) then wtf is left?...nothing, just put it together...properly of course. And I can PROMISE you I (or anyone else for that matter) would put it together with MUCH more care and consideration than someone who has to rebuild a handfull each day.

And I don't think you're average wrencher is going to tear into a multi $K blower if they don't know 100% what's going on.

Thanks Forced for coming on, nice to have reps on the board. Vortech does a good job and still makes the most reliable blowers around imho (I owned an S and now a T).
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post #50 of 291 Old 08-16-2006, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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I agree with you '91 GT. Only I didnt have the nerves to try the rebuild on my own. Since the rebuild, its been smooth every since.
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post #51 of 291 Old 08-16-2006, 06:35 PM
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I hear you jbj302, and that's being smart...I prolly would pay the $300 instead of trying to source all of the proper parts, that can be the biggest hassle sometimes from what I learned.
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post #52 of 291 Old 08-16-2006, 08:04 PM
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For sure, but to say that a committed enthusiast cannot or should not do it themselves is not a good statement.

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post #53 of 291 Old 08-16-2006, 09:32 PM
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wow! very impressive write up/how-to, My S-trim is coming up on needing a rebuild soon too

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post #54 of 291 Old 08-16-2006, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I'm sure you guys that rebuild your own do a great job. I was just stating that I dont have the nerves to do it myself nor the tools. If I had another head unit to try this with, I probably would try it knowing me. I feel the techs at Vortech are human just as I am, so I could do it as well. I just dont have the nerves, LOL!
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post #55 of 291 Old 10-04-2006, 01:15 AM
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Vortech quoted me $326 for a minor rebuild (bearings and seals). While I'm not afraid to tear into one entirely, for the 300 bucks I wouldn't do it. You'll spend a portion of that on the parts, assuming that you get the right parts.

So the difference in actual savings over having them do it is less than you think. And if there's any special tools required, you can add that to the tab.

My grandfather once told me "Do what you do best... and pay somebody else to do what they do best". Over the years, that advice seems smarter and smarter. Think about it. If you factor in your time (longer than an experts), your new tools (if necessary), the risk factor (new engine), your parts, your time to round up these parts, and then compare all of this in a dollar figure to you doing YOUR job that you're good at, and getting paid for that, are you really that far ahead? And even if you are, is the risk factor worth it?

On the flip side, you only live once.

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post #56 of 291 Old 10-04-2006, 12:58 PM
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I agree, but you also have to consider the 2 months you might be without the thing. In any case as with anything in this car business you just get tired of constantly having to rely on other people for help. The conveniance and satisfaction of doing it yourself is nice.

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post #57 of 291 Old 01-18-2007, 09:57 PM
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this is why people send there units to vortech













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post #58 of 291 Old 01-18-2007, 11:43 PM
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Whoa, post from the past ...

I don't see much wrong with your blower, looks like a simple rebuild to me.

Has anyone taken any more pics of their rebuilds so I can update the rebuild instructions?

Cam
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post #59 of 291 Old 01-19-2007, 01:11 AM
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That doesn't look all that bad, actually. It's the Jesus clips and the unknowns that bother me. I would hate to get it apart and not know where some ball bearing or shim went.

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post #60 of 291 Old 01-19-2007, 10:29 AM
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Theres nothing in there at all Very easy guys. If unsure send to vortech.
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post #61 of 291 Old 01-19-2007, 02:52 PM
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man what a awesome write up and help for us blower guys. can we get one together for a procharger d-1?
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post #62 of 291 Old 01-19-2007, 10:05 PM
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Theres nothing in there at all Very easy guys. If unsure send to vortech.
I think anyone who's somewhat mechanically inclined would have no problem with this rebuild as long as they have access to a decently equipped press. The bearings must be pressed on and off, they cannot be pounded on/off. Otherwise it's really fairly straightforward. About the only issue I might see is balancing the rotating assembly but as long as you keep the wheel/shaft orientation the same it won't be too far off. Noise might increase slightly but for a V1 SC I'm doubtful it would make a difference since they're so loud anyway.

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post #63 of 291 Old 01-20-2007, 01:26 AM
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Whoa, post from the past ...

I don't see much wrong with your blower, looks like a simple rebuild to me.

Has anyone taken any more pics of their rebuilds so I can update the rebuild instructions?
Me and a friend did this one, dont know if there is any extra info for you but some pics are in it, I think you will find this post interesting.

See post #4, and thanks again!

https://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=843610
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post #64 of 291 Old 01-20-2007, 02:05 AM
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Hah, very cool rebuild! I imagine the quieter operation is due to the coarser teeth on the input gear. Your hybrid is likely spinning slower than a "normal" s-trim due to the lower number of teeth.

The compressor housings look identical - would the a-trim wheel have fit in the s-trim chsg? The a/r looks the same between the two.

Were you able to note the direction that the thrust bearings were installed in?

Cam
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post #65 of 291 Old 01-20-2007, 02:32 PM
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What is an indication of outshaft or compressor seal failure. Where would you see the oil buildup.

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post #66 of 291 Old 01-20-2007, 03:50 PM
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Hah, very cool rebuild! I imagine the quieter operation is due to the coarser teeth on the input gear. Your hybrid is likely spinning slower than a "normal" s-trim due to the lower number of teeth.

The compressor housings look identical - would the a-trim wheel have fit in the s-trim chsg? The a/r looks the same between the two.

Were you able to note the direction that the thrust bearings were installed in?
On the spinning slower part, that may be correct, but with a 3.33 and 6.87 I am getting a solid 10psi. that is with 65cc GT40 irons and a compression ratio of about 8.5:1 topped with a cobra intake. We were using the internals from the A-trim. When I had the A trim I had a 2.95/6.87 and could opnly get 10psi, this was with a 8rib.

If you look closer at the volute(comp housing) they are the same EXCEPT, the actual inlet on the S was HUGE compared to the opening on the A. The A volute would never work with the S inpeller.

I dont remember how the thrust bearings went, we just keept everything facing the same way when we took it off so we could just drop the stuff back on.
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post #67 of 291 Old 01-20-2007, 10:53 PM
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What is an indication of outshaft or compressor seal failure. Where would you see the oil buildup.
You would see oil either behind the pulley or your blower would be blowing oil The compressor stage would probably have sludge built up in it if the compressor seal was going out.

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post #68 of 291 Old 01-20-2007, 10:57 PM
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On the spinning slower part, that may be correct, but with a 3.33 and 6.87 I am getting a solid 10psi. that is with 65cc GT40 irons and a compression ratio of about 8.5:1 topped with a cobra intake. We were using the internals from the A-trim. When I had the A trim I had a 2.95/6.87 and could opnly get 10psi, this was with a 8rib.

If you look closer at the volute(comp housing) they are the same EXCEPT, the actual inlet on the S was HUGE compared to the opening on the A. The A volute would never work with the S inpeller.

I dont remember how the thrust bearings went, we just keept everything facing the same way when we took it off so we could just drop the stuff back on.
That's interesting; so even though you're spinning the s-trim slower than the A, you're still making the same boost levels. Definitely, the a-trim wheel looks like it's been neutered.

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post #69 of 291 Old 01-21-2007, 01:14 AM
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That's interesting; so even though you're spinning the s-trim slower than the A, you're still making the same boost levels. Definitely, the a-trim wheel looks like it's been neutered.
The actual size difference between the A impeller and the S impeller was impressive. The A trim flows either 750 or 850 cfm where as the S trim flows 1000 cfm. I imagine that difference is the difference between the boost level.
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post #70 of 291 Old 01-21-2007, 06:08 AM
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I upgraded my SC trim to an S trim, and it's the exact same impeller without the ends trimmed off.

My front oil seal on the blower leaked, and it dripped oil straight down... directly onto the belt. It looked like the shiniest armor-all'd belt you've ever seen. I'm sure it slipped plenty too, as the car just didn't build any more power over 6,000. It should have kept on building power in linear fashion until about 6800. Translation: lost about 70 rwhp.

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