400 whp recipe. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys I wanted to talk to some people with knowledge. I like the Facebook, but I know people here are generally alot nicer.

Anyways. I have a 1992 mustang notch lx.
- authentic cobra intake
- gt40p
- brand new springs. Retainers seals and keepers
- Bbk longtubes full 2.5 inch exhaust (offroad lol)
- 60lb injectors
- vortech v 1 S trim.
- aeromotive 340 stealth in tank.
- aem wideband
- cheapo boost gauge.
- new headgaskets and arp head studs and bolts
- motorcraft plugs gapped to .0035
- fresh oil change.


Is the stock maf compatible? The car would be dropped off to the tuner, chipped and tuned with an sct chip. Other than a supercharger cam, any thing else you guys can think of?

I also have a b303 sitting here for free, worth dropping in ?

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post #2 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 07:57 AM
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The B303 is not a great blower cam. With a blower I would use the OE cam before the B303. Th B303 doesn't make much more power than the OE cam. I'd put 1.72 rockers on the stock cam and set the blower to 7-8 psi unless you can plumb in an intercooler then I'd go to 12 psi. It should get you close.

If you decide you want to part with the B303, I'd be interested in it for a future non-Mustang project I am gathering parts for.

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post #3 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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The b cam is yours. I'm asking 100 shipped less than 3k on it, let me know. Do you think the stock maf and Tb will be enough?
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post #4 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 09:31 AM
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I agree with ditching the B cam. If you want something off the shelf, go with the TFS stage 1 or the E cam. The suggestion to use 1.7 rockers with the stock cam is also a good and cheap alternative. If you want something a little more pricey then go with a custom grind.

Replacing the stock MAF will be one of the best things you can do with the blower. It will be a huge bottleneck at high rpm.
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post #5 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Do you have a suggestion? If the car will be dyno tuned do I have to get a 60lb inj meter, or should the meter just be a certain size, and the tuner can change the parameters? Should I switch to blow through if I'm buying a new maf anyways?
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post #6 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 09:53 AM
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I'll take it. How do you want to get paid? I'll PM you....
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post #7 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 10:47 AM
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Do you have a suggestion? If the car will be dyno tuned do I have to get a 60lb inj meter, or should the meter just be a certain size, and the tuner can change the parameters? Should I switch to blow through if I'm buying a new maf anyways?
That is a question for the tuner, let him tell you. Generally I would get the biggest meter you can, the 90mm Lightning meter is great.
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post #8 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 04:02 PM
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I had great luck with the Lunati 51014 on a 306. At 8 psi through an AOD it made 447 rwhp. I think there's also a Wolverine equivalent cam. I'm sure you could find one cheap. That was a great cam - just nasty enough to sound mean but not adversely affect driveability, easy on the valvetrain and made great power (I was shifting at about 6,300-6,500 rpm); but it peaked around 5,800 with ootb TW170 heads and a Trick Flow Street intake.

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'84 LTD LX - 9.83 at 140.09. Whippled 365 SBF with a glide and 3.08 gears. Driven to and from the track 60 miles without even changing tire pressure.
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post #9 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 04:03 PM
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Oh - and take the plug gap down to about .025-.028. You'll get more reliable/smoother power at high rpm, and you won't lose anything down low.

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'84 LTD LX - 9.83 at 140.09. Whippled 365 SBF with a glide and 3.08 gears. Driven to and from the track 60 miles without even changing tire pressure.
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post #10 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Just to update you guys I called a local, highly regarded (by the comunity) tuner. He told me the v1 and the 60 lbs were fine. He said to grab:

- 90mm lighting maf (pull through)
- 70mm throttle body
- aeromotive 340 lph
- autolite 103 plugs.
plugs.
-Bosch bypass valve


Hes going to do a sct chip and a nice dyno tune session for me. I just wanted to update this to get some answers on here for any body else who looks, and then this pops up in the search results.

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post #11 of 28 Old 05-23-2019, 10:30 PM
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x heads, b cam, gt40 intake and s trim made 460 rwhp. in 90's. If you have it, I would run it over the stock cam for power, but stock like low rpm driveability of the stock cam is nice too. your combo stock versus b, my money is on the b for power.

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post #12 of 28 Old 05-25-2019, 09:25 AM
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Not for nothing, spend the extra money and put a fuel system in it. Aeromotive drop in hanger is a great piece, -6 feed and return. Vortech blue fuel rails and a boost reference regulator.

Fuel system is the most overlooked piece of the car. Sure everyone will say they made 500 to the wheels with their stock fuel system and lines but that's a complete low budget hack job.

Do it the right way. If you're going to get it tuned anyway then might as well spend the additional money the first time. And have it done right the first time as well.
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post #13 of 28 Old 05-25-2019, 10:44 AM
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^Even more than that, the wiring for the fuel pump is by far the most overlooked thing. All you need to do is look up a voltage drop calculator online and compare that to fuel flow graphs for pumps at different voltages. A 1 volt drop has a HUGE effect on a pump's flow capacity - and when you look at the voltage drop calcs, you can see that at a typical 12-16 amps at 12 volts, it's not hard to hit a full volt drop (10 feet of 14 gauge will drop almost a full volt at that load).
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'84 LTD LX - 9.83 at 140.09. Whippled 365 SBF with a glide and 3.08 gears. Driven to and from the track 60 miles without even changing tire pressure.
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post #14 of 28 Old 05-25-2019, 11:43 AM
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^Even more than that, the wiring for the fuel pump is by far the most overlooked thing. All you need to do is look up a voltage drop calculator online and compare that to fuel flow graphs for pumps at different voltages. A 1 volt drop has a HUGE effect on a pump's flow capacity - and when you look at the voltage drop calcs, you can see that at a typical 12-16 amps at 12 volts, it's not hard to hit a full volt drop (10 feet of 14 gauge will drop almost a full volt at that load).
Thanks for that I forgot to mention it.
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post #15 of 28 Old 05-25-2019, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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I love the idea of building a full fuel cell, -8 an fuel system from scratch. I'm just trying to get the car on the road this summer. And enjoy it, I dont want to spend tons of time over building it , and never drive it. I did that with my last car and I'm not doing it again. The car will be custom painted and bay shaved, caged, lowered on custom suspension, supercharged and looking nice. Just want to hit the beach and the town with my girl. Although running a lower gauge wire to the fuel pump is something that can be done for relatively cheap. So I can deff take that advice and run with it.
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post #16 of 28 Old 05-25-2019, 04:58 PM
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I love the idea of building a full fuel cell, -8 an fuel system from scratch. I'm just trying to get the car on the road this summer. And enjoy it, I dont want to spend tons of time over building it , and never drive it. I did that with my last car and I'm not doing it again. The car will be custom painted and bay shaved, caged, lowered on custom suspension, supercharged and looking nice. Just want to hit the beach and the town with my girl. Although running a lower gauge wire to the fuel pump is something that can be done for relatively cheap. So I can deff take that advice and run with it.
You mean a larger gauge wire to the pump.

Get the aeromotive hanger, the fittings it calls for, some ethanol compatible fuel hose, rails and regulator. And fuel filter. Don't forget the aeromotive wiring upgrade. You can do it yourself for half the price
Just follow the directions on aeromotive website. This can all be done in a day. You can even tell reuse your stock injectors and drive it until you are ready to do the blower.
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post #17 of 28 Old 05-26-2019, 10:08 PM
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The B303 cam is a decent camshaft for the price its worth. Its not the best camshaft out there but its decent. If you can invest in getting a better camshaft, get a TFS 1 camshaft designed for boosted mustangs or contact Anderson Ford Motorsport to see what camshaft they would recommend for boosted mustangs. You want a mid range camshaft so it pulls like a freight train down below since your not going over 6000 RPMs on a stock 302 block. I am thinking Anderson Ford Motorsports would recommend their B31 or N41 camshaft but see what they suggest for you.
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post #18 of 28 Old 05-27-2019, 09:25 AM
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Last engine made 565rwhp, 306, TW 170 heads, t-trim 16lbs boost, AFM B-451 cam.
I really liked that AFM B451 and would be my cam choice for boosted applications. You do need to get their valve springs as well for the b451 however. Made 515rwhp with a F303 prior to cam and spring change.

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #19 of 28 Old 05-27-2019, 10:24 AM
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The B303 cam is a decent camshaft for the price its worth. Its not the best camshaft out there but its decent. If you can invest in getting a better camshaft, get a TFS 1 camshaft designed for boosted mustangs or contact Anderson Ford Motorsport to see what camshaft they would recommend for boosted mustangs. You want a mid range camshaft so it pulls like a freight train down below since your not going over 6000 RPMs on a stock 302 block. I am thinking Anderson Ford Motorsports would recommend their B31 or N41 camshaft but see what they suggest for you.
Don't you ever call the almighty b303 cam decent. It's power and torque are unmatched in awesome gains throughout any sbf Windsor application.
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post #20 of 28 Old 05-30-2019, 09:36 AM
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OP: The mods suggested by the tuner look fine, all except for the fuel pump. For 400 RWHP, a 255LPH pump will be sufficient. (Calculations show that a 190 is actually adequate, but the 255 gives a little head room.) A larger pump does nothing but recirculate the unused fuel, raising its temperature. You can see my mods in the link in my signature if you're interested.

EDIT: And would a full AN fuel system be nice? Yes. Is it needed for your goals? No.
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post #21 of 28 Old 05-30-2019, 12:30 PM
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Don't you ever call the almighty b303 cam decent. It's power and torque are unmatched in awesome gains throughout any sbf Windsor application.


Amen brother, all are blessed by B303
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post #22 of 28 Old 05-30-2019, 12:55 PM
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OP: The mods suggested by the tuner look fine, all except for the fuel pump. For 400 RWHP, a 255LPH pump will be sufficient. (Calculations show that a 190 is actually adequate, but the 255 gives a little head room.) A larger pump does nothing but recirculate the unused fuel, raising its temperature. You can see my mods in the link in my signature if you're interested.

EDIT: And would a full AN fuel system be nice? Yes. Is it needed for your goals? No.
..
A 255 pump will cause a restriction because it's trying to flow 255lph through a tiny feed line. The restriction will be caused on the return side and not allow the fuel pressure regulator to function properly. This will show up on a gauge as a higher than normal fuel pressure with a unsteady needle.

Also you can always tell a mustang that has a 255 in with stock lines. It whines something crazy because it's trying to flow at 255 but the tiny lines will not allow it.

Don't overlook a proper fuel system design.
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post #23 of 28 Old 06-05-2019, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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If anybody here is familiar with the al9 computer system I have a question. Alot of people are running thicker gauge wire due to voltage drop to thier fuel pump. They are by passing the fuel pump relay, and wiring there own relay. When I look at the fuel pump relay schematic, I see the relay sending voltage to control module, and the inertia fuel shutoff switch. Can we just bypass that stuff? Or does the controls module need to see votage from the relay?
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post #24 of 28 Old 06-05-2019, 08:50 AM
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The dark green / yellow wire is confirmation to the computer fuel pump is on. This should be for error codes only. Use the light blue / org wire as the ground trigger for the new relay (85 or 86 on standard 12v relay). Its fine to bypass inertia switch and wire power to 30(from fused 12v batt source) thru 87 directly out to fuel pump. It would be just as easy to reconnect that dark green / yellow wire to that same 87 out so the computer gets the correct 12v signal and doesn't throw codes.
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post #25 of 28 Old 06-05-2019, 09:32 AM
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I would not bypass the inertia switch. You wreck it, its on fire, and now the fuel pump is still running spraying gas on the fire.

Could the existing power wire to the pump be used to trigger the new relay? That way you don't bypass the existing features.

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post #26 of 28 Old 06-05-2019, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I suppose I could T off of the red 12v wire and clip the 12v feed at the pump. Everything else would work as designed.
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post #27 of 28 Old 06-07-2019, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Is. Anybody seeing any real gains using this "power pipe." I was given this for free. The alternative is running a 180 off the inlet of the supercharger, with maf and k&n air filter. I have scott rod panels and a custom shaved & tucked engine bay. I'm not Interested in cutting holes in it for plastic pipes. But, if I could gain 20 horsepower I'd be interested.
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post #28 of 28 Old 06-11-2019, 12:58 PM
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Mine is in my sig. Stock bottom end. TW 170's and custom cam from FTI. RPMII. 75mm TB and 90mm maf with 60lb. injectors and a 255. A trim making about 7-8 lbs. I would guess it to be 375-400 @ the tire w/ T5.

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