head gasket needs replaced?? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-24-2007, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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head gasket needs replaced??

How hard is this to do? any special tools needed?


Thanks

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post #2 of 8 Old 11-24-2007, 01:35 PM
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Depends on how handy you are. Have you ever tackled a job like this? You're basically gonna be taking apart your entire engine for this. I did this job with my father and his old 3.8 cougar. It took pretty much a weekend and alot of know how.

Difficulty wise it's not TOO bad, but you definitely need to know what you're doing. Consider having someone else do it with you if you haven't tackled anything this big.


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post #3 of 8 Old 11-25-2007, 02:11 AM
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My 2 cents are if you have to ask, you probably can't or don't want to try doing it.


I've done it on the 1999 3.8L and done it on other cars. No mystical voodoo involved but you need 1) suitable work space such as home garage and not a parking lot. 2) all gaskets and bolts before you begin. (yes I said, bolts. You need to replace all your head bolts and preferable intake bolts too) 3) Need a little more than average tool kit, there are tight spaces where specialty stuff rocks over conventional- like exhaust manifolds. 4) Service manual mandatory 5) QUALITY torque wrench for reassembly 6) A/C service equipment for reinstall.....and many many more items to consider and have on hand.

To me I'd call it easy, and can have them off, valves re-sealed, and heads reinstalled and have a driving car in 48hrs. To the next guy, could be a basket case. In fact, I could use the money and would do it for you for $3,500 parts and labor included.--Live in Los Angeles????

You forgot about the ramdom gun fire in the streets, RPG's, and the cackle of Klashnikovs on all the major holidays.

LA rules! I love this place.
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post #4 of 8 Old 11-25-2007, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the replys. I have the tools and knowledge, I guess I was thinking more along the lines if any speciality tools are needed ??
It does have stock exhaust manifolds on it along w/ a/c. Hoping to Not loose the charge from the a/c, as it still works.

35thpony not sure the car would ever be worth $3500
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-26-2007, 01:36 AM
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It's pretty certain you have to dump the AC. But you can recharge yourself when done, problems are you probably don't have the vacuum pump to draw it down. When you do remove the lines, cap them or tape it off. You will loose a fair ammount of compressor oil with it, so when you recharge use the cans that have oil mixed in with it, and of course all ways introduce to the low side on refill.

Now the freon is a dry gas, so if you want to help remove the moisture that enters the system when disconnected (usually removed during the vacuum draw down) purge the freon system 1-2 times to remove "some" of the moisture. But the cost of freon probably equals the service fee of a shop that has the right equipment...

Special tools also needed are the fuel line lock ring disconnect, for the exhaust manifolds, gear wrenches are the best. Other special tools I'd suggest are valve spring compressor so that you can replace the valve stem seals. Do it now why you have them on your work bench. When I pulled my heads I did it for porting, so good time to port match your intakes and heads. Also replace your thermostat while you have it off the car.

You forgot about the ramdom gun fire in the streets, RPG's, and the cackle of Klashnikovs on all the major holidays.

LA rules! I love this place.
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-26-2007, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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35thPONY, thanks for the heads up on the a/c
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post #7 of 8 Old 11-26-2007, 10:20 AM
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You do not have to drain the freon, just loosen and set the compressor aside.
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post #8 of 8 Old 11-27-2007, 11:10 AM
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could also go to a couple local junkyards and try and track down a f150 with a 4.2 and just swap the whole motor for less then a grand

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