96 v6 to 5.0 help - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 46 Old 11-06-2006, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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96 v6 to 5.0 help

i was wondering if anyone has done this swap before, and what might be involved. the only reason is that i already have a very nice 5.0 and trans to throw in my 96 vert that i got yesterday. just wanted to see if it would be a easy bolt in or not. thanks ahead of time.

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post #2 of 46 Old 11-07-2006, 11:04 PM
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I'm also interested in this, but the car is a 94. Will a 302 bolt to the stock 3.8 K member?


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post #3 of 46 Old 11-14-2006, 08:21 PM
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you can do it, your 3.8 has more potential though if you spend your money right

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post #4 of 46 Old 11-14-2006, 10:13 PM
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1996 k member is different. You'll need a 1994-95 unit, or possibly redrill mounting holes.

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post #5 of 46 Old 11-15-2006, 01:23 PM
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i have done it. you will have to notch the kmember on the passenger side to make it work.

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post #6 of 46 Old 11-17-2006, 08:38 PM
 
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i don't really know about the 3.8 having more potential. i know that the 3.8 is basically a 5.0 w/ 2 less cylinders but $ for $, i would say do the swap. honestly, how many heads, intakes, cams, power adders, etc. are out there for the 5.0. working w/ the 3.8 is basically like trying to mod a 4.6, your options are going to be limited. i know there are some sixers that are pretty hot but look at the amount of money that has been POURED into them. that more potential in the 3.8 honestly cracked me up. a 3.8 w/ a blower makes what, 350 hp? a good h/c/i combo on a stock 5.0 will make that kind of power and you'll still have plenty of options on the table.

but........back to the topic. your going to need several things. first you'll need to have the complete 5.0 w/ accessories. you'll also need the complete 5.0 engine harness, injector harness, and ecu. if you already got the trans you'll be alright there. but if you're going to the trouble changing the engine and trans you might as well pony up a few more bucks and get a tubular k-member for a 5.0. if you already have lowering springs you can get a-arms w/ spring perches welded on them or you can buy em seperate and bolt em on the a-arms. your rear will be okay until you start making some good power or until you start beating on it, then it will be time for an 8.8 or a 9 inch. also, i would suggest a new 3 core radiator. the stock one will work but you don't really want to be pushing the limit on the stocker right after you take the trouble of swapping everything else. and of course, a new exhaust. but other than that, you should be okay. can't think of anything else right now.
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post #7 of 46 Old 11-18-2006, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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i don't really know about the 3.8 having more potential. i know that the 3.8 is basically a 5.0 w/ 2 less cylinders but $ for $, i would say do the swap. honestly, how many heads, intakes, cams, power adders, etc. are out there for the 5.0. working w/ the 3.8 is basically like trying to mod a 4.6, your options are going to be limited. i know there are some sixers that are pretty hot but look at the amount of money that has been POURED into them. that more potential in the 3.8 honestly cracked me up. a 3.8 w/ a blower makes what, 350 hp? a good h/c/i combo on a stock 5.0 will make that kind of power and you'll still have plenty of options on the table.

but........back to the topic. your going to need several things. first you'll need to have the complete 5.0 w/ accessories. you'll also need the complete 5.0 engine harness, injector harness, and ecu. if you already got the trans you'll be alright there. but if you're going to the trouble changing the engine and trans you might as well pony up a few more bucks and get a tubular k-member for a 5.0. if you already have lowering springs you can get a-arms w/ spring perches welded on them or you can buy em seperate and bolt em on the a-arms. your rear will be okay until you start making some good power or until you start beating on it, then it will be time for an 8.8 or a 9 inch. also, i would suggest a new 3 core radiator. the stock one will work but you don't really want to be pushing the limit on the stocker right after you take the trouble of swapping everything else. and of course, a new exhaust. but other than that, you should be okay. can't think of anything else right now.


thanks, you got to say it before i did. I already have a 10 sec combo out of my 92 vert i really just wanted to see if i could use the factory v6 k member or if i needed to get a tubular one. my only minor concern was the dash cluster, since there is no speedometer cable and i am going to use my aod, not an aode, is the speed sensor like the older ford were it was just a speedometer with electronics on the back or is it the flying magnet type? trust me there isn't a whole lot that i cant do to these cars, this is just my first mustang that isnt a fox body, so some of thes things are a little new to me. thanks again for all the help guys.
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post #8 of 46 Old 11-19-2006, 08:27 PM
 
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i'm pretty sure that the instrument cluster just has the electronic on the back. i'm probably going to go with a instrument cluster from florida 5.0 with autometer guages. hope i've helped.
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post #9 of 46 Old 11-20-2006, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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yeah but im talking about the speed sensor in the trans. but i will look at the florida 5.0, thanks.
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post #10 of 46 Old 11-24-2006, 04:37 PM
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[QUOTE=98lx;6406722]i don't really know about the 3.8 having more potential. i know that the 3.8 is basically a 5.0 w/ 2 less cylinders but $ for $, i would say do the swap. honestly, how many heads, intakes, cams, power adders, etc. are out there for the 5.0. working w/ the 3.8 is basically like trying to mod a 4.6, your options are going to be limited. i know there are some sixers that are pretty hot but look at the amount of money that has been POURED into them. that more potential in the 3.8 honestly cracked me up. a 3.8 w/ a blower makes what, 350 hp? a good h/c/i combo on a stock 5.0 will make that kind of power and you'll still have plenty of options on the table.
QUOTE]

sorry to go off topic...

fords essex 3.8 has nothing to do with the 302, it is a modified copy of buick 231 motor found in the buick grand national

the 3.8 has beefier rod and mains than a 5.0 and the stock 3.8 heads outflow stock 5.0 heads and when ported the 3.8 heads rival decent aftermarket 5.0 heads

also, matt neuthart is running almost 800 HP on a stock 3.8 block, and a f150 crank, which is just for a longer stroke

if you must though
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_941317/tm.htm


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post #11 of 46 Old 11-24-2006, 07:45 PM
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you can do it, your 3.8 has more potential though if you spend your money right
I know right, why would anyone want to start out with 225hp and 300 pounds of torque instead of like half of both of those?
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post #12 of 46 Old 11-24-2006, 09:46 PM
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but at the end of the day its still a V6.
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post #13 of 46 Old 11-24-2006, 10:53 PM
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I know right, why would anyone want to start out with 225hp and 300 pounds of torque instead of like half of both of those?
if you want to get real technical, the 3.8 makes more HP per C.I then the 5.0, and the block wont crack in half at 450 HP

im not saying the 5.0 is a bad engine, its not, the 3.8 is just a superior design, which is why when nascar needed a V-6 they copied the essex instead of taking a 302 and hacking off 2 cylenders

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post #14 of 46 Old 11-24-2006, 10:55 PM
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but at the end of the day its still a V6.
thats why people dont build them

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post #15 of 46 Old 11-25-2006, 12:05 AM
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So which would be Cheaper. Pulling 500hp out of a V6 or a V8? Also 450... thats a joke right?..... I have various issues of muscle mustangs where people run 500rwhp or a little over on stock blocks.... for awhile..... They don't just hold up to 450 crank. I personally have a friend with a 94gt tuned to 525rwp.... been running a year and a half now...Still going.
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post #16 of 46 Old 11-25-2006, 11:19 AM
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So which would be Cheaper. Pulling 500hp out of a V6 or a V8? Also 450... thats a joke right?..... I have various issues of muscle mustangs where people run 500rwhp or a little over on stock blocks.... for awhile..... They don't just hold up to 450 crank. I personally have a friend with a 94gt tuned to 525rwp.... been running a year and a half now...Still going.
i wouldnt push a stock 302 block over 450 HP, your friend has had luck, thats about it, and as for which is cheaper it all depends on if you know how to spend your money. for $2500 i could make a v-6 (single or split port) run with a PI 4.6.

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post #17 of 46 Old 11-25-2006, 07:02 PM
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i wouldnt push a stock 302 block over 450 HP, your friend has had luck, thats about it, and as for which is cheaper it all depends on if you know how to spend your money. for $2500 i could make a v-6 (single or split port) run with a PI 4.6.
Safely and reliably, tranny not under pressure or anything else, rear end reliable as well? That's not to bad, but regardless it didn't answer my question....
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post #18 of 46 Old 11-25-2006, 11:42 PM
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for which ones cheaper? it all depends on how you spend your money and what you use (boost, juice, all motor etc)

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post #19 of 46 Old 11-26-2006, 10:30 AM
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No nitrous, power adder's fine. And something 500hp Realiable.
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post #20 of 46 Old 11-27-2006, 05:14 PM
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again, it all depends, cause i personally would not do 500 HP on a stock 302 block

if i were to go all motor, i would probably say it is cheaper to get a 302 there, however, justin at vmptuning has twin turbos at 17psi, shift kit, DRs, amd ,minor suspention work, he runs high 10s and puts out 430 rwhp and is his DD, however, this doesnt mean im gonna go tell everyone to just slap TTs on it and be good, it really depends on motor, turbo, blower etc on what you want, however, i would be at ease more running 500 HP on a stock 3.8 block/cranck then a stock 5.0

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post #21 of 46 Old 11-27-2006, 11:23 PM
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hey a little update on the kmember...everything looked fine and dandy on my swap till i put the driveshaft in yesterday and it came up about an inch short...so u need to get a kmember that will work for a 95

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post #22 of 46 Old 11-29-2006, 10:52 AM
 
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Well look at it this way.

I have 320 hp at the wheels from a 3.8 v6. That is 365 or at the crank. Much more than a 200-210 5.0.

Changing to a v8 does involve some complicated work like changing wire harnesses.

I pay V6 insurance, get v6 gas mileage


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post #23 of 46 Old 11-29-2006, 11:22 AM
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I averaged 23.5-25mpg in my 95 5.0 and paid 102$ every month on insurance.... And how much money did it take to get that extra 110hp I wonder
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post #25 of 46 Old 11-29-2006, 03:49 PM
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Well look at it this way.

I have 320 hp at the wheels from a 3.8 v6. That is 365 or at the crank. Much more than a 200-210 5.0.

Changing to a v8 does involve some complicated work like changing wire harnesses.

I pay V6 insurance, get v6 gas mileage


Stan

what year/tranny? any time slips?

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post #26 of 46 Old 11-29-2006, 08:22 PM
 
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Well look at it this way.

I have 320 hp at the wheels from a 3.8 v6. That is 365 or at the crank. Much more than a 200-210 5.0.

Changing to a v8 does involve some complicated work like changing wire harnesses.

I pay V6 insurance, get v6 gas mileage
okay.......i'm not knocking that your car makes over 300hp at the wheels. i'm not doubting it. but you're comparing a STOCK 302 with a BLOWN v6. not really the best comparison. all i'm saying is that if you compare it $ for $, you can spend the same amout of money and get more out of the 302. more cubic inches is still more cubic inches and everyone knows that the more power you make na, means that you'll make more power when boost or n20 are added. that's why i'm skipping the 302 and going straight for the 408. not knocking anyone just stating the facts. btw, thanx for the info mustangman, i was always told that the 3.8 was basically a 5.0 with 2 less cylinders.
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post #27 of 46 Old 11-29-2006, 09:46 PM
 
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Im sure if you put the same amount of money into a 5.0, youll make more hp.

But if you have a v6 mustang and you spend 2k. and you stay with the v6 you could have my numbers

If you start with a v6 mustang , buy all the necesary parts to make the swap, pay for the labor and then use what is left over to mod it, ill be faster

If you already have a 5.0 and the new k member, wireing harness, tranny with the proper belhousing etc etc then go ahead..

Mustang man the info you asked for.

95 Vert
01 V6 engine.

actually if you look at my numbers it was more than 1800 i quoted above because I forgot to include the SCT chip/dynotune and my exhaust(hypercoated longtubes headers/h-pipe/dual magnaflows)

No E.T's because

I autocross, real racing involves turning

and because nhra rules require me to install cage if I run faster than 13.99 and the car should run 12's.

Most of the money I spent on the car is in the suspension.

Stan
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post #28 of 46 Old 11-30-2006, 02:38 AM
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Nice, how much boost? Got a Dyno sheet? Also how much torque? And what is Hypercoated? Only heard of Chrom or Ceramic Coated?
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post #29 of 46 Old 11-30-2006, 05:41 PM
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okay.......i'm not knocking that your car makes over 300hp at the wheels. i'm not doubting it. but you're comparing a STOCK 302 with a BLOWN v6. not really the best comparison. all i'm saying is that if you compare it $ for $, you can spend the same amout of money and get more out of the 302. more cubic inches is still more cubic inches and everyone knows that the more power you make na, means that you'll make more power when boost or n20 are added. that's why i'm skipping the 302 and going straight for the 408. not knocking anyone just stating the facts. btw, thanx for the info mustangman, i was always told that the 3.8 was basically a 5.0 with 2 less cylinders.
actually, if you want to compare stock power, the 3.8 makes more HP per C.I then a 5.0

btw no problem,

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post #30 of 46 Old 11-30-2006, 05:41 PM
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Nice, how much boost? Got a Dyno sheet? Also how much torque? And what is Hypercoated? Only heard of Chrom or Ceramic Coated?
dyno sheets dont really matter,if i wanted to i could make my stock V-6 dyno at 500 rwhp stock

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post #31 of 46 Old 12-01-2006, 01:31 AM
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you can do it, your 3.8 has more potential though if you spend your money right
Not in a billion years, no way in hell.

'92 LX 5.0 Hatch
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post #32 of 46 Old 12-02-2006, 01:49 AM
 
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Nice, how much boost? Got a Dyno sheet? Also how much torque? And what is Hypercoated? Only heard of Chrom or Ceramic Coated?
17lbs

nope and mine didnt get am accurate torque reading, the tach pickup was acting funny. i lent my sheet to a freind who who said his co worker wouldnt believe him

Hypercoating is done in a shop in orlando. its a ceramic coating like jethot.

like I said. If you compare the cost of the swap plus mods, or modding the v6 i think youll get a better $ per horsepower ratio out of the v6. If you have a 5.0 and can do all the labor yourself and have access to a wiring harness/bellhousing/ ect etc you can make more potential hp with a 5.0 , but it will cost you more in the end(especially with gas prices and insurance costs)

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post #33 of 46 Old 12-02-2006, 04:17 PM
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Not in a billion years, no way in hell.
want to explain other then no way in hell? other then the fact my split port has better flowing heads, a strong block, crank rods and mains then your car and makes more HP per C.I

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post #34 of 46 Old 12-04-2006, 07:17 PM
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still waiting to hear your explanaition bonestock94???

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post #35 of 46 Old 12-27-2006, 11:56 PM
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HP/liter is a moot point, leave that argument for Honda guys. The stock 5.0 bottom end is good for 500 before worrying about the block cracking. Mexican blocks or even older 351's are good for much more and can be had for 2-300 bucks. As for heads, Ill make more power with basic external boltons then you will. If Im worried about heads on a budget I can go for the top end off of a cobra for 5-600 bucks and approach 300whp with bolt-ons.

And to top it all off, 5.0 powered cars can be had for not much more than a V6 powered car. Not to down you guys by any means, as a car guy I always appreciate watching people making beasts out of cars that aren't typically viewed as being fast. Not that sn95 5.0's are fast by any means stock, but the point of my argument is that I believe a v6 does not have more potential than a 5.0.

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