Please help me diagnose my moms cars problem... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-22-2005, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Please help me diagnose my moms cars problem...

She has a 94 Mustang V6, automatic.

Sometime the car fires right up, sometime it takes longer. Sometimes I have to use my jumper on it because the battery keeps dying after being replaced countless times. The alternator was also replaced.

But recently when you try to start it it makes a small crank, then it just clicks constantly. If you try to put the jumper on, the same thing happens. Small crank, followed by numerous ticks.

The following has been replaced:

Ignition Switch
PCM/Processor Assembly
Starter
Alternator
One injector was also replaced
ECU

Any ideas? I hate thinking I have it working then find out it pulls crap like this other times.

Thank you all for any help, it's greatly appreciated.


-Michael
95 GT - Bilstein shocks/struts, H&R SS springs, MM C/C, J&M adj LCA's, 03 Cobra A arms, KC clutch, BBK LT's, Spintech Sportsman mufflers, Dr. Gas X, FRPP 3.73, Cobra brakes. Audio: Pioneer DEH-P880PRS head unit, Mach 5 MLI-65 comps, Seas Neo alum tweets, Kicker ZX700.5 amp, RE SE12"
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-22-2005, 07:41 PM
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Clicking is 100% electrical problems in the starting circuit, and almost certainly either the battery or starter. Whack the starter with a small mallet while its clicking, and if it cranks you need to replace the starter again. Also, check all of the cabling between the starter and solenoid/battery to insure its not corroded, cracked, or otherwise damaged.


Charles
1992 Oxford White Mustang LX
1984 Oxford White Mustang LX
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-22-2005, 08:35 PM
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You might also want to check what gtplaya302 went through just recently and see if it has a resemblance to your problem. The thread is at https://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=739041 and LUK if it's a similar case. GL

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NOW: 5.0L Stock shortblock, X303 Cam, SP Offy. Port-O-Sonic, 700 cfm DP Holley, 289 '66, 1.7 RR, Richmond Gear 4+1 Trans., Centerforce DF kit, 2.73 Gears

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post #4 of 12 Old 12-22-2005, 08:51 PM
 
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Many times the click is low voltage at the solenoid indicating a low batt, poor connection (s), bad solenoid, or bad starter.

Quick check:

Using a digital tester, check the batt voltage at terminals - engine off. Voltage should be at least 12.4V, (a full charge is 12.66V). If less - check for batt drain. If not, then possibly a bad cell. Before trying anything else - the batt must be recharged.

Check voltage at terminals while someone cranks the engine. If less than 9.6V, check low batt, or bad connection(s), defective starter.

With engine running, (if you can get it started), check voltage will all accessories ON.
Voltage should be 13.8V to 14.5V. If not at least 13.8V - alternator may be defective, (burned out diode, etc).

P.S. When encountering a low batt - It should be charged with an automatic portable charger ASAP with an output of at least 6 amps, (10/12A) is ideal. It may take one to two hours. Unless an emergency - a low batt should NOT be charged by driving the vehicle. It takes a LONG time to fully charge and is a strain on the alternator considering - they were NOT designed to recharge a low/dead batt.

If the batt is/was left in a discharged state for any length of time, the cell plates become sulfated to the extent that the sulfation/oxidation cannot be effectively removed, (especially in an older batt), rendering it almost useless.

Believe it or not.
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-22-2005, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all so much!

Since the car is still on stands, I'll see if I can get my mom to try cranking it and I'll whack the starter and see if that does anything.

About the digital tester, where might I buy one at? Is there any special brand to get or are they pretty much universal?

Thanks again guys, I really do appreciate it. Hopefully I can tackle this demon once and for all, lol.

-Michael
95 GT - Bilstein shocks/struts, H&R SS springs, MM C/C, J&M adj LCA's, 03 Cobra A arms, KC clutch, BBK LT's, Spintech Sportsman mufflers, Dr. Gas X, FRPP 3.73, Cobra brakes. Audio: Pioneer DEH-P880PRS head unit, Mach 5 MLI-65 comps, Seas Neo alum tweets, Kicker ZX700.5 amp, RE SE12"
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post #6 of 12 Old 12-22-2005, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure why it got moved here...? It's nothing specific on the V6.....

Anyways, I found two things on ebay. Which kind should I get?
http://cgi.ebay.com/The-Best-Digital...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/DVM-DIGITAL-VOLT...QQcmdZViewItem
This one seems like a really good deal.

Should I buy this on ebay or pick up a cheapie at a parts store?

Thanks!

-Michael
95 GT - Bilstein shocks/struts, H&R SS springs, MM C/C, J&M adj LCA's, 03 Cobra A arms, KC clutch, BBK LT's, Spintech Sportsman mufflers, Dr. Gas X, FRPP 3.73, Cobra brakes. Audio: Pioneer DEH-P880PRS head unit, Mach 5 MLI-65 comps, Seas Neo alum tweets, Kicker ZX700.5 amp, RE SE12"
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-23-2005, 03:03 PM
 
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Wal-mart, Menards, Radio Shack.

Most places have digital multi-testers for less that $15.00. Get one with a continuity range. This works good to check fuses and bulbs.
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-23-2005, 03:47 PM
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I had a ssimilar problem. Turns out I had damage to the battery cable. The negative cable to be specific. Corrosion had travelled down the wire about 8 inches. A new wire and the problam was solved.

Mark
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-02-2006, 01:27 PM
 
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Ford Mustang battery cables

Make sure the terminals on the battery and the battery terminal clamps on the battery cables are clean and tight. A simple check you can do is to take a ohmmeter and put on lead on the battery clamp and another directly to the battery terminal and check for resistance. There should be none if the connection between the battery terminal and the battery clamp is clean and tight. Do the test with the ignition off.

Also be sure to check that the battery cable to starter soleinod is clean and tight and that the solenoid cable to starter is clean and tight.

Fianlly make sure the negative battery cable is clean and tight to the frame of the car.

A little detective work will result in long term excellent starting performance and battery charging.

Joetang '85 3.8 Lx.

Last edited by joetang; 01-02-2006 at 01:29 PM. Reason: missing work
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-04-2006, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Alright guys, I just got my digital multi-meter today and I'm eager to use it. But, I do not know what to set it to or anything like that. The instructions didn't really clear it up to well so I'm hoping someone could enlighten me.

There are dials for AC, DC V, DCmA, and resistance with a horseshoe symbol. Also, where you are supposed to plug in the red and black probes, there are three slots to choose from. "V horseshoe mA", "COM" in black letters and 10A.

Sorry for all the questions it's just this is the first time I've used these and have not a clue on what to choose from. Any help on this would be much appreciated, thanks.

I'll check out the cables and terminals as well this week. Hopefully I can fix this once and for all.

Thanks again!


-Michael
95 GT - Bilstein shocks/struts, H&R SS springs, MM C/C, J&M adj LCA's, 03 Cobra A arms, KC clutch, BBK LT's, Spintech Sportsman mufflers, Dr. Gas X, FRPP 3.73, Cobra brakes. Audio: Pioneer DEH-P880PRS head unit, Mach 5 MLI-65 comps, Seas Neo alum tweets, Kicker ZX700.5 amp, RE SE12"
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-04-2006, 07:46 PM
 
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For now - do not use the 10A slot.

Turn the unit on, If there is an OFF - ON - CONT selector.

Red connector in the + and black in the COM.

Set the main selector dial on DC, (direct current).

Range selector on automatic, (if there is one)

Touch the red wire test prod to the + terminal on the battery and, of course, the black prod to the ground terminal. The readout should display in one or two seconds. Full Charge = 12.66V It may read a bit more if the vehicle has just been shut off or less if it has been sitting for a few days.

With the engine running and ALL accessories ON - the reading should be btwn 13.8V and 14.5V. If much less than 13.8V there could be a problem with the alternator or in rare cases, a battery with a bad cell will not accept a charge tripping the regulator off. If the reading is the same as the engine off test or less, than the alternator is probably not working or there may be a bad connection.

Should you need to remove the batt terminals --ALWAYS REMOVE THE GROUND TERMINAL FIRST and RECONNECT IT LAST!

Good Luck!

P.S. If you are not familar with batteries - be careful not to cause a spark near the battery filler caps. Even though most are supposedly sealed - they usually have a vent on the sides of the filler capS. Tests with the voltage tester are not a problem.


* MOST IMPORTANT . . . . . WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR. *

Last edited by bronzesink8; 01-04-2006 at 07:58 PM.
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-12-2006, 11:28 AM
 
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I had that problem with my fox body. I replaced the battery terminals, negative ground battery wire, positive wire from battery to solenoid, and positive wire from solenoid to starter. Tie down all the connections real tight.
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