2001 v6 intermitently no start - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 01-15-2015, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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2001 v6 intermitently no start

my sisters 01 v6 intermittently wont start.turns over great,just wont start.she took it to advance auto and they tested and replaced the battery.same problem still.i checked and no codes stored.now here is where it gets strange.turn key on and no fuel pump prime or obd2 communication.you can hook a jump box to the battery with the key on and then the fuel pump primes and my scanner suddenly has communication and you can take the jump box off and the car will start.i replaced the cable ends on the battery but still same problem.after it starts it'll start for the rest of the day.next day same thing again,no start.battery is never dead and everything else works fine in the car.i I was thinking ccrm becauase the fuel pump relay and pcm relay are in there.if anybody else has any suggestions i'll gladly listen.

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post #2 of 15 Old 01-15-2015, 06:41 PM
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with a scan tool you get no comm?

with a scan tool you can check cam/crank signal

without those inputs you will lose spark........

does is it stall and not start?


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #3 of 15 Old 01-15-2015, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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it does not start and stall.it's not losing spark,spark is fine.the problem is the fuel pump won't activate or the ecm won't come on unless you hook a jump box up.it doesn't have to be left on while cranking to start.it's like it just needs a little extra voltage.i checked battery voltage when it won't start and its 12.2volts.when I add the jump box it only goes to 12.9 but then it starts.when it starts it runs fine.it doesn't die going down the road or anything and will restart several times a day.it usually only acts up after it's been sitting for 6-8 hours.
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post #4 of 15 Old 01-16-2015, 12:43 AM
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okay

while you are cranking your voltage is NOT 12.2volts....I guarantee that


so redo your cranking test, and say what the voltage at crank is?

If you have enough power to crank, you have enough power to run a pump

the ECM MUST SEE A CRANK RPM INPUT BEFORE THE pump is turned on during crank.

if you put the key into the RUN position do you have a prime from the pump?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #5 of 15 Old 01-16-2015, 12:52 AM
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sounds like a ground problem near the battery / headlamps, there's a pretty important ground up in that area and any slight resistance will cause issues

does the theft light flash during this indicating a PATS issue?

decipha @ EFIDynoTuning
www.efidynotuning.com
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post #6 of 15 Old 01-16-2015, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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indy,during cranking it drops to 10 volts.what you don't understand is the pump won't prime with the key turned on,it has nothing to do with cranking.you can turn the key on to the run position and the fuel pump wont prime unless you hook a jump box or battery cables to it.no,it's not a vats issue as the theft light goes out.getting a used ccrm today and trying it.i did check the ground on the fender.took it off and cleaned it but made no difference.this was one of the first things I done.
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post #7 of 15 Old 01-16-2015, 09:05 AM
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how are you testing for no fuel pump prime with key in run?

please, when describing the issue, be clear on description.

key turned on, is not clear.

use terms like run and start, crank no start, or no crank no start....it makes it easier to visualize what exactly you are describing.

From what I gather, you have no prime in run position.

when cranking, adding a boost pack is the only way it will start.

Is this correct?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #8 of 15 Old 01-16-2015, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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when you cut the key on to run(not crank)the fuel pump wont prime.if you hook a booster pack up the pump will immediately prime.once it does this you can remove the booster pack and crank the engine over and it will start.it does not need the booster to actually start,just to make the fuel pump prime.
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post #9 of 15 Old 01-16-2015, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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tried ccrm and same thing.
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-16-2015, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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problem solved.apparently 3 bad advance batterys in a row.plenty of volts but low amps.2nd battery only showed 325 amps,3rd battery was even worse.they checked the 4th one and it showed 595 amps and everything works fine now.i st battery was only 1-2 years old,2nd battery was only 1-2 weeks old and 3rd battery tested bad before even putting it in car.the car sounded fine cranking and really doesn't crank any better than the others but it primes the fuel pump now.

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post #11 of 15 Old 01-16-2015, 10:03 PM
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I think your problem is not solved, cause it makes no sense that the battery didn't have enough amps to prime the pump in run, but could magically find more amps to crank the engine.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #12 of 15 Old 01-17-2015, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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I thought the same thing but it started up again this morning without a jump.reminds me of a Cherokee I worked on years ago.it would start fine but not idle unless you held your foot on the throttle.it cranked and started fine but no idle.battery fixed it as well.
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post #13 of 15 Old 01-17-2015, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratrapp View Post
I thought the same thing but it started up again this morning without a jump.reminds me of a Cherokee I worked on years ago.it would start fine but not idle unless you held your foot on the throttle.it cranked and started fine but no idle.battery fixed it as well.
new battery solved it?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #14 of 15 Old 01-17-2015, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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yes it did.apparently it wasn't getting enough voltage to make the iac motor work.batterys can make efis vehicles do strange things.
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-22-2015, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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sisters car still starting fine.problem solved
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